Subject: SMML28/11/97VOL014 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1: Re: USS Ward 1/350 Scale 2: Re: USS Ward Color Scheme 3: Floquil stains/USS Arizona/Survey 4: Re: Floquil stains/USS Arizona/Survey 5: Floquil Stains ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: witsie/ken mckelvy Subject: Re: USS Ward Rick: Standby until Thanksgiving is over. I've got the Ward's color scheme. Asked the same question myself in Warship International and got a response on it. Will dig it out and forward it on Saturday. Ken McKelvy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: witsie/ken mckelvy Subject: Re: USS Ward Color Scheme 12-7-41 (Long) Rick: Placed an ad in Warship International some time back for this and had the following response (provided by Mr. Larry Gertner of Staten Island, N.Y., and Mr. Aryeh Wetherhorn of Gush Etzion, Israel). "Ward (DD-139) is wearing a Measure 11 Sea Blue System pattern. According to Sowinski, this pattern was authorized in Sept 1941 and was supposed to offer low visibility to aerial observation by day or night in all weather. All vertical surfaces were painted Sea Blue (5-S) from the boot topping to the masthead with Deck Blue (20-B) on all horizontal metal surfaces. "A photo of Ward in Lott's booklet distinctly shows her in the solid color scheme dictated by the Measure 11 specifications, whereas if she were in the Measure 1 Dark Gray System, the distinctive light gray mast and funnel tops of that system would be evident. Confusion regarding the colors of ships in 1941 is quite understandable, as ships painted in Measure 11 served side by side with those painted in Measure 1. According to Palmieri, although Measure 11 was made the official scheme of the Pacific Fleet in Sept 1941, it took some time for the complete changeover to be made. Although smaller combatants like destroyers and cruisers were generally quick to be repainted into this pattern, Chandler (DNS-9), referred to in this question, simply had not been repainted before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. (NOTE: I had cited the photo of the Chandler which appears in John D. Alden's "Flush Decks & Four Pipes" wearing Measure 1 as a possible example.) "Ward could not possibly have been wearing Measure 21, overrall Navy Gray (5-N), on 7 Dec 1941, because this system did not come into use until Jan 1942. BUSHIPS trials had shown that a touch of blue or purple-blue was helpful and offered superior concealment to the pure "lamp-black" gray. The standard paints were mixed by adding a tinting material (TM) made of lamp-black and ultramarine blue to untinted white paint (5-U). Various shades were created by varying the amount of TM added, and any ship's company might make some small variations during the course of mixing this paint. The difference between Measure 11 (5-S) and Measure 21 (5-N) was the amount of blue gray tinting material added to the standard white paint. Measure 5-S used about 20% tint while Measure 5-N used 30%. The difference between the two colors was really very slight, especially since the ultramarine based blue tended to erode and fade rapidly when exposed to bright sunlight and sea spray. Sources: Lott, "USS Ward - The First Shot." Sowinski, "United States Navy Camouflage of the WW2 Era." Palmieri, "USN Camouflage Part I" in Scale Models April 1979. Hope this helps. Misspellings/gaps are most probably due to my poor typing/editing. I don't know how many of you folks belong to INRO, but their quarterly Warships International is well worth the annual dues. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: TANewell@aol.com Subject: Floquil stains/USS Arizona/Survey Hi Greg... Taking a break from eating turkey to drop you a note...I can pick up the Floquil paint/stains for you...I haven't shipped anything overseas before but I'll give it a shot...I'll probably start at the post office. You mentioned in your last posting that you wanted 2 bottles of each stain and didn't mention the "mud" paint...I would suggest that I send you 2 bottles of the mud paint and 1 bottle each of the walnut and driftwood stains. I've used this system on 3 kits so far and I've hardly made a dent in the stains. As I said before, the paints and stains are about $2.50 each for a 1 oz. bottle. If you're interested, send me your snail mail address. You asked about removing the railings from the Arizona kit...as I have said before, the plastic that my kit was molded from seems to be a little soft, and I was able to remove the long railings from the hull halves by lightly scribing the bottom of the railings with an X-acto knife and snapping the railings right off. This would leave a slight ridge that was easy to sand or file off. Try to avoid cutting too deep with the knife...it was hard to control in the soft plastic. On the superstructure you'll notice that there are several areas where there is a combination of solid and open type railings. I would take a saw and make a cut in between the solid and open railings, then scribe and snap off the open railings. A set of small files really helps on the smaller upper decks. I hope that you can get your hands on the "Battleship Arizona" book...I referred to it often to configure the railings on the superstructure. As for the survey about restricting the site, I vote for plastic/resin only because wood is such a different type of medium that it doesn't even interest me. As for "modern" ships only, I find that I'm interested in almost anything that's non-sail. I just started building ships, and so far I've completed a Titanic, the Lusitania, the Hood and now it's the Arizona, so I guess I haven't yet built a ship that wasn't built before 1920. My next kit built will probably be the funky Chinese battleship that I picked up, and it's circa 1890! So I vote for anything post age-of-sail. Tim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Greg Subject: Re: Floquil stains/USS Arizona/Survey Hey Tim, You've got some address and Money details coming your way "Off List" regarding those stains - Thanks for your help!, I would appreciate all comments and suggestions about the decks. I have never tried anything like that, so with a few practise decks and some good advice, I might do O.K. As far as scribing off the rails, well, I just can't get her to stop by the hobby store for some new blades! (Just kidding:-) Bookwise I have just kept The Floating Drydock "Floating", Iowa Class Battleships, Designs and History, Illustrated histories of Mo and NJ, Montana Plans, etc.. I dont think the Budget can cover me for another, although I would really love to have the Arizona book, by the time I get the currency changed, pay the fee's and shipping, a $40 book can cost me $70-$80. Love those liners - I have a Titanic underway as well (Academy 1/350). Wouldn't mind a Lusitania - a bit hard to find here though. Thanks again for your help. I will be writing to you again soon no doubt - I have really been bitten by the Arizona bug. Greg ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "David & Alicja Lombard" Subject: Floquil Stains Floquil stains are available from: 1) Model Expo. Phone 1-800-222-3876, US and Canada, 9-6 E.T. FAX 1-800-742-7171, 24hrs. Their latest catalog lists S-120, Driftwood, and S-126, Walnut, for $2.19/bottle. Their shipping is $5.00 for $50.00 or less. 2) Micro Mark Phone 1-800-225-1066, US & Canada, 24x7 FAX: 1-908-665-9383 An older (summer) catalog listed 27130, Walnut, for $1.60/bottle (call about this price). Oddly, Driftwood was not listed. Their shipping is $5.00 for $30.00 or less. For this list, I also prefer to stay more modern, plastic/resin oriented. David Lombard Rossmoor, Orange County, California ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume