Subject: SMML05/01/98VOL050 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1: Re: USS Ticonderoga 2: Re: USS Ticonderoga 3: NS Savanna 4: Mark 50 Gun Director (BB-35) 5: USS New Jersey Plans 6: Re: Minicraft Titanic 7: Re: Minicraft Titanic ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dave Carter Subject: Re: USS Ticonderoga >> I just noticed a Revell 1/700 USS Ticonderoga in a hobbyshop. There's also the Minicraft Ticonderoga in 1/700. Anybody any idea which one I should buy (I don't mind the price, they are not expensive anyway) ? I can't compare them because the Revell box is sealed .. << Hi Stefan, The Minicraft 1/700 Ticonderoga is good, but not as good as the Revell Ticonderoga, which is of a higher tooling quality (many of the lastest releases from Revell are ex-Skywave). The decals, however, are probably of a better quality in the Minicraft box. At around £6.70, the Revell kit is very good value. I would run with the Revell kit myself. Caroline White Ensign Models,Gardeners Cottage,Cowarne Court,Lower Eggleton, Ledbury,Herefordshire,HR8 2UF,U.K. Tel: 01432 820403 Fax: 01432 820830 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: jdcorley@ix.netcom.com (James Corley) Subject: Re: USS Ticonderoga >> I just noticed a Revell 1/700 USS Ticonderoga in a hobbyshop. There's also the Minicraft Ticonderoga in 1/700. Anybody any idea which one I should buy (I don't mind the price, they are not expensive anyway) ? I can't compare them because the Revell box is sealed .. << The Revell is the Skywave/DML kit, while the Minicraft is the Arii. Both have their own problems, but the Revell is the more accurate and "better looking" kit, IMO. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: McKellar Subject: Re: NS Savannah >> Try to find the National Geographic CD collection for the 1960s (or the old magazine) and look for the article in the August 1962 issue. This was a great propaganda piece for the Atoms For Peace program with a few good photos of the ship building and newly completed. << Thanks got it. Mark ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Dbrown303 Subject: Mark 50 Gun Director (BB-35) Hello All, I am building the USS Texas in 1:350, and am in need of drawings or close-up photos of the Mk 50 Gun Director. The Texas (in '45) had two of these directors, one on the main maist and one on the foremast. I have the Friedman book (which references the Mk 50 as seen on the New York - sister ship of Texas), the Squadron BB book, and the Leeward Pub book, but none of the photos are close-ups. The fine folks on the Texas in Houston have been great about supplying me information, but clear photos of this director seem to be non existant. Any leads would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance, Buffie ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Greg Subject: Re: USS New Jersey Plans Hi Gang, (And Dale, Sorry I didn't get back to you!) Just a short note to let you all know I got my NJ plans from Dale a few days ago and they are very cool, especially helpful for those of you who might like to try a little scrathcbuilding in a larger scale (1/192 ,1/96 etc...) I assume these details are relevant to all the Iowa Class ships as they were all given a good dusting off in the early/mid 80's. I noticed some sheets were marked BB-63 too! There are some neat spec sheets on different colored lights and fittings at certain places about the ship, great antenna and aerial details, deck layouts, superstructure bits and pieces, like I said b4, If your building a biggy, it would be very hard for you to leave out any of the finer details if you had a set of these babies on the workbench. And also a very nice addition to the Iowa class fan's collection! For those of you who are interested, drop me a note and I will put you in touch with Dale, I am note sure if he still has copies, but if you are genuinely, I am sure he can arrange something And thanks Again Dale! Greg (Listmaster - SMML) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Bill & Kaja Michaels" Subject: Minicraft Titanic I have the 1/350 scale Titanic kit. Anyone have any experiences with lighting this kit? I will build it as a display model (not RC). I read on rec.models.scale about someone who used a couple of lights in the hull, with some frosted plastic as a diffuser. This sounds workable, but I'm concerned about how to change the bulbs down the line, and also about how to evenly distribute the light throughout the ship. The sci-fi guys sometimes use a product called "lightsheet". Has anyone used it in a ship model? About all I've done so far is to drill out the portholes. I'm holding off on proceeding until I work out what to do with the lights............. Bill and Kaja Michaels ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Greg Subject: Re: Minicraft Titanic Hi Bill and Kaja, I bought this one about 3 yrs ago, and started on it, and I basically never got around to finishing it for the same reason. I drilled out all of the portholes in the hull, and glued 4x small low voltage bulbs in there, and kinda insulated the bottom of the main deck with some aluminium foil, and then I channeled a bunch of pilot globes throughout most of the larger area's, dining rooms, grand staircases and stuff, the pilot lights were very easy to fit and hide cos they are so small. I was told to fit the globes to a dimmer, so as it reduces the risk of popping bulbs when the power is switched on, it also stops you from overloading your electric system and allows you to kinda half power the globes, extending their life, and giving your model that nice "yellowish" incandecant look. As far as changing globes, well I guess without cutting a hole in the hull, I don't really think there's any way around this? I was told to put it together and enjoy it while it lasts, and don't leave it on for to long! Another option might be to look at some fibre optic cable, I have just done this with my Big E, (And wish I had of done this to my Titanic, too late now!) I found you only need drill one small hole in your hull, which you can easily hide by strategically placing it in the vacinity of your display stand, run one fibre optic cable through the hole, and branch it off to light the various areas of the ship. Your primary light source is out of the hull, meaning once she's set, FORGET! If your globe go's out, you dont have to tear it appart to change it! This from what I know, would probably be your best option. "Lightsheet"? news to me - Let me know if you find anything out. Hope this helps! Greg (Listmaster - SMML) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume