Subject: SMML06/01/98VOL051 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1: Fletcher class DD's 2: Russian and Polish Naval Books 3: Revell's Titanic Kit 4: Titanic... 5: first issue titanic model (late 70's) 6: Shinyo Special Attack Craft 7: Re: Lighting model ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Les Pickstock (Les Pickstock) Subject: Fletcher class DD's Hi guys As a debut posting I'd like to make this enquiry. Were the Fletcher class ships used exclusively in the Pacific theatre? I'd be interested in hearing about Fletcher's in the Atlantic or Med and if they used any specific camo Measures. Les Pickstock ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Kutsyy Subject: Re: Russian and Polish Naval Books I have tryed a few russian translation sofwares. If you have no idea about the language, but have an idea about topic of the text, than software will work. English translation is far from the best, also a lot of russian words have a few translations to english, and sofware would not pick up the right one. You can do better job using dictionary, but it will be a lot longer. You can use this software to get first look at translation, but then you would have to use dictionary to make sence out of the translations. Good lock. Vadim Kutsyy http://www.stat.lsa.umich.edu/~kutsyy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "John L." Subject: Revell's Titanic Kit Hi, Is there anyone here who owns a Titanic model made by Revell. It's not the big Academy Minicraft kit. How's the quality? Are there alot of gaps that need to be filled with putty? Thanks John ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Gerlach, Bill J" Subject: Titanic... I've heard a few people are building this one now. Any advise on this one? I'm somewhat new to modelling - i'm getting the 1:350 scale with the add on brass fittings. Anyone have pictures of a completed one? later, Bill ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Gerlach, Bill J" Subject: first issue titanic model (late 70's) I'm considering buying the first issue of the 1:350 model of the Titanic for $45. Is it the same model with same level of detail and amount of parts, etc. as the re-released one? Thanks for any help, Bill btw this is the Entex Minicraft one. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Kenneth Hagerup Subject: Shinyo Special Attack Craft I'm looking for information to scratchbuild a 1/72 Shinyo Attack Boat to go along with my Fine Molds Kaiten and Type A. These were small gasoline powered suicide boats built by the Japanese in the final years of the war to combat amphibious invasions. I have the drawing of a Shinyo Type 5 from Warships of the Imperial Japanese Navy 1868-1945, and one of the docents of the Battleship Cove Museum has graciously volunteered to photograph their example. Does anyone know of any other resources? Thanks, LCDR Kenneth L. Hagerup USN (Ret.) http://www.Geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4992 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Lighting models >> I have the 1/350 scale Titanic kit. Anyojne have any experiences with lighting this kit? I will build it as a display model (not RC). I read on rec.models.scale about someone who used a couple of lights in the hull, with some frosted plastic as a diffuser. This sounds workable, but I'm concerned about how to change the bulbs down the line, and also about how to evenly distribute the light throughout the ship. The sci-fi guys sometimes use a product called "lightsheet". Has anyone used it in a ship model ? About all I've done so far is to drill out the portholes. I'm holding off on proceeding until I work out what to do with the lights............. << If you run an incandescant bulb at reduced voltage, the life of the lamp skyrockets. I don't remember the formula, but the increase in life is proportional to the difference in voltage (amount of reduction) raised to the 37th power!!! Also as someone else pointed out, running at reduced voltage will give you that nice old fashioned yellow look. Try a few low voltage automotive type bulbs and try running them at about 6 volts. They should effectively last forever! Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume