Subject: SMML17/01/98VOL062 shipmodels@tac.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1: Wish List 2: Ballot 3: Re: wanted kit list 4: Re: Floquil Haze Gray 5: Looking for references on modern carrier hangar decks 6: Ballot 7: Ballot on new models 8: Re: Task Force 72 9: Fibre Optic Light Sources 10: RE: Anzac Hull 11: Building the Gulfstream 1/350 Cleveland class cruiser USS Miami 12: PT109 LINDBERG 1/32 SCALE 13: Colors of USS Holland ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "John L. Bishop" Subject: Wish List I would like to see a 1/350 SS Keewatin. This ship is a vintage Great Lakes passenger ship that was manufactured in Scotland. The prototype is in Saugatuck, MI. I've loved that ship ever since I was about 5 years old.... John ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: John Philip Downing Subject: Ballot 1/700 Kirov (Modern) BC HMS Furious BC HMS Courageous Battleship HMS Lord Nelson A french predreadnought BB USS Arkansas British "R" class BBs. 1/700 Never built HMS Incomparable French "Lyon" class BB 1/200 HMS Hood Jean Bart ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SantMin Subject: Re: wanted kit list I like Mr. Chaucer's list. I would vote for 1/700 model of all the ships in the "Great White Fleet". Only ones I know of in small scales are Classic Warships USS OREGON (convertable to MASSACHUSETTS and INDIANA) and Jim Shirley's USS CHESTER. Guess I'll have to keep scratchbuilding ! Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Floquil Haze Gray Jon Warneke, in answering the post re: USS MISSOURI, wrote that Floquil's haze gray is one of the few Munsell PB colors they got right. Again, I want to reiterate that, in that case, it's the *early* war haze gray (correct for the period up to about 1944). The late war grays were neutral black/white mixes with no purple-blue pigmentation. Anyone doing the 'Big Mo' in late war would not want the bluish haze gray. John Snyder ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: jpoutre@lehman.com (Joseph Poutre) Subject: Looking for references on modern carrier hangar decks Hi all, I'm looking for photographic references on the hangar deck of modern US carriers. I'm planning to scratchbuild the hangar deck of a model I'm building, and I only have a couple photos I took of the Kennedy. Any good sources? I don't need closeup detail - the model is in 1/700 scale, so I need a general layout and coloring. A related note: how many people would like Caroline and Dave Carter at White Ensign to do an Airstrike700 resin set of the various vehicles used aboard US and British carriers? I could use four sets right now; all I have are two rectangular shapes with vague wheels and a too thick crane truck. (To the Carters: thanks for doing V-22s - my order will be coming shortly.) Joseph Poutre, aka The Mad Mathematician N2KOW Webmaster, Battleship New Jersey Historical Museum Society http://www.quuxuum.org/bnj/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: Ballot I'm into post WWII USN ships. So here's my list, all 1:700: USS Boston/Canberra (CAG-1/2) [I'd take an SSP of the old Revell kit] USS Newport News (Jim Shirley announced one. Status?) USS Arleigh Burke (DD) USS Wasp (LHD-1) USS Truxtun Les "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups." ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: jpoutre@lehman.com (Joseph Poutre) Subject: Ballot on new models (Refer Listmaster) Seriously, here are the ships I would like to build eventually that I can't find in model form: Any scale US pre-dreadnoughts other than Maine, especially Virginia class and the Mississippis that went to Greece Liners Normandie and Ile de France (bigger than 1/600) Cruiser Newark (C-1), the first steel ship in the US Navy 1/350 Essex class CV, short and long hull 1/700 HMS Ark Royal - WWI seaplane carrier, post-WWII CV, and modern CVH, to go with the Revell WWII version (Carters - are you planning on a PE fret for it?) Russian BCG Kirov (modern missle ship) French WWII ships - BBs, BCs, CVs (Bearn and the seaplane carrier), CAs and CLs, DDs, subs (minelayer Rubis) Benson/Gleaves class DDs (I know about BWN 1/350 - beautiful but expensive) Sacramento class AOE Austin class LPD I know the last two wouldn't be as popular as the Kirov or the Ark Royal, but I'd like to see some examples of the large number of support vessels that have served our country, and there is a ship in each class named after a city in New Jersey (Camden and Trenton, respectively.) That's my two cents, for now. I have a pocket full of change, but I have bills to pay. :-) Joe Poutre ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Michael Kear Subject: Re: Task Force 72 Goodness! Thanks for the welcome. I'll talk models with anyone anywhere! HEHE.. And this is as good a place as you'd find :) Anyway, I'll be glad to discuss models with you on the phone some time if you want to let me know your phone number off line. I'm actually working from a tent at the beach these two weeks. It's my annual vacation time, except since I operate a one man internet business, I am not allowed a day off except for Christmas Day. SO I take my laptop and my mobile phone and work from my tent while my wife and kids swim and enjoy the sand and sun. I'm afraid I mightnt have much to show you if you came over, since I have a classic internet business - I only get stock in to fill orders. My catalogues for my various businesses are all on the internet. So a laptop is all I need to operate the business : ) I'm going to put a hints and tips page up on the Task Force 72 site in the beginning of February, and the first main article is how to make good quality railings in 1/72 scale, complete with drawings for the jigs etc required. You are right, Russ French is a master modeller, and for the others who haven't had the opportunity to see some or Russ's awesome work, there are a selection of photos of his models HMAS Arunta, Brisbane and even Russ himself on our web site. http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/tf72.htm Look at the photo gallery. And yes, Greg, we can get you one of them there HMAS Anzacs in 1/72 scale And anyone else anywhere in the world too for that matter. Look into our AFP Models site at http://www.zip.com.au/~mkear/AFP_Catalogue_Master.htm We are selling things made by members of Task Force 72, duplicating the fittings and hulls etc they made for their own models. SO they can share them with others, and recoup some of their modelling expenses while they're about it. (We accept Visa, Mastercard, Australian Bankcard, Amex) Hundreds of products so far, and more to come. (Shameless plug I know, but its helping other modellers get their models made!) Cheers, and thanks for the welcome, Mike Kear, Webmaster, Task Force 72 Australia 1/72 Scale warship modellers, Australia Check out our web site at: http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/taskforce72.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Michael Kear Subject: Fibre Optic Light Sources >> BTW, I was wondering how you attach the fibre optic strands to the globe, I found everything I tried Melted with the heat? I ended up building small "Breathing" light boxes around pilot globes? << Greg, I have used two methods. One is to drill holes into LEDs and poke the ends of the fibres into there. This is the best method, because its cold and direct connection of the fibre to the light source. And of course LEDs switch on instantly. I've used this method for red and green fibres before, and iam eager to try using the new white LEDs just coming on the market too. Otherwise, I use a little light box. The fibres terminate a centimeter or so from the surface of the bulb inside a light-tight box, which is still able to be ventilated so not too much heat will build up. The box is made of thick material and lined with brass, so it wont corrode, but also no light will transmit through the box. Then each fibre will be poked into a hole in the box. They are fastened with normal glues. Fibre used for modelling is made of one kind of plastic with another plastic coating. I haven't used CA glues on them, so I don't know whether they react with CA or not. Up to now I have used epoxy glue (Araldite to be precise) and had no problems. Also you could use epoxy putty to hold them in place, such as Milliput. There's an equivalent product in Australia too, much cheaper and made locally, but I'm not at home and cant rush out to my workshop to see what its brand name is. You'll just have to go to your local Mitre10 and ask. OR go to BBC Hardware and search by yourself because you'll never get anyone there to tell you where it is. (IF you ever get to talk to a person in the store, they wont know where to find it. Their standard response to any question is "you'll have to ask that person over there`" and wave vaguely in the direction of a totally deserted part of the store.) Cheers, Mike Kear, Webmaster, Task Force 72 Australia 1/72 Scale warship modellers, Australia Check out our web site, at http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/taskforce72.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Michael Kear Subject: RE: Anzac Hull G'day Greg, Please forgive my delay in getting back to you. I think we have exactly what you are looking for. You have seen Russ French's excellent model in the Task Force 72 pages. Well Russ sent his hull to Allan Pew to make a plug from. Allan made some more fittings and now you can see the result as a semi-kit in our AFPModels site on the web. Or if you prefer, you could buy the hull and plans, and get the rest as you go. The advantage of the semi=kit is it's got all the hard bits, the ones that really add impact to a model if done well, yet ones that detract from a model if done poorly. Such as guns, radars, watertight doors, etc. You have to make the superstructure - which is after all mostly straightsided boxes anyway. So you could build your ANZAC piece by piece as you go, costing a little more, but you would be paying for it as you go and therefore making it a whole lot easier to hide the overall cost from anyone who might have an opinion on whether it's a worthwhile way to invest your hard-earned dollars, if you catch my drift. On the other hand, getting the whole semi-kit means you have it all there and can get to work on whatever little part takes your fancy tonight. For example a Phalanx is a fine little model of its own of 11 parts. The AFP Models website is at www.zip.com.au/~mkear/AFP_Catalogue_Master.htm (yes I know it's a clumsy URL - I'm saving up for a proper business name and domain name) Cheers, Mike Kear, Webmaster, Task Force 72 Australia 1/72 Scale warship modellers, Australia Check out our web site, at http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/taskforce72.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Michael Kear Subject: Lightsheet in models I looked at lightsheet once as a solution to a problem in a radio controlled model I was building. But it seemes to me that it needs a 110v AC power source. And it's a special one too. Not your normal transformer. That's a problem for us in Australia for a number of reasons If you plug it into our 240v system it'll blow up. WE don't have 240v on radio control models yet. And I couldn't see how you could run it from batteries. When I asked lightsheet systems, the supplier about this I got a deafening silence. Apparently they don't want anyone asking questions and wont support users in the field. It's not an inexpensive material, and you use a whole sheet for every application. From what I could read from what they sent me, its like a thin, flexible LED. So its cold. There are terminals at the end of each sheet, which you can cut and bend. Because its cold, you could paint the parts you didn't want to show as lit, so you could make illuminated signs or even windows by painting or glueing frames onto it. But I've never worked with it, since I don't have 110v and they didn't seem ready to help me. I wasn't prepared to spend the $40 or so plus another $50 to get it to Australia to just get a bit to try. Perhaps someone else has tried it and could let us all know. Cheers, Mike Kear, Webmaster, Task Force 72 Australia 1/72 Scale warship modellers, Australia Check out our web site, at http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/taskforce72.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Rob Mackie" Subject: Building the Gulfstream 1/350 Cleveland class cruiser USS Miami Mike Ashey, the author of "Building and Detailing Scale Model Ships" (Kalmbach Publishing), has written a fine article describing the construction of Gulfstream's 1/350 Cleveland class cruiser USS Miami. Both newcomers to resin kits and experienced builders can benefit from Mike's tips and techniques. The article includes 33 of Mike's extraordinarily clear construction photos. You can see it at Warships, a free site for ship modelers at: http://warship.simplenet.com/ Rob Mackie El Cerrito, California WARSHIPS Modeling Allied Navies: 1900 - 1945 http://warship.simplenet.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Noel Carpio Subject: PT109 LINDBERG 1/32 SCALE Hello from the Philippines!!! I want some info on how to improve my PT109 1/32 scale by Lindberg. Where can I get the photoentch parts for it and do you know where to get the canon installed on the top of the bow? Help me guys...noeluthy@easy.net. Any info you want from the Philippines? Maybe from IPMS Philippines? Hope to here from you. Thanks. NOEL CARPIO ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Colors of USS Holland I am working on the Commander's 1/72 scale USS Holland Sub. I have a question on colors and markings. The instructions say paint overall very dark gray. I believe that the hulls ov early US subs were Gray-Black, however were there any other colors, i.e. differences above/below waterline so to speak, or a lighter color on the deck? Also, what aboutt markings?? Were there any? Any input would be appreciated. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume