Subject: SMML31/01/98VOL076 shipmodels@tac.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1: Tuboat St. James 2: Re: pre WW1 submarines 3: Titanic Modelling 4: 1/700 Scale Russian Kits 5: NEW WEM 1/700 SCALE RELEASES 6: Starline/Fleetline Models of Australia 7: Re: More Titanic Questions 8: Re: More Titanic Questions 9: Re: Titanic ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Sharon Gibbs" Subject: Tuboat St. James Hi I'm looking for a model kit of the tugboat St. James, which worked in the New York area mid 1800's, or other vintage attractive tugs. Can you help? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: BChaucer@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: pre WW1 submarines I am looking for drawings for an Electric Boat design 19A or B circa 1910-1911(?) I have a general arrangement and can deduce most of the ship from that and a bunch of photos, but the stern has me defeated. An aft tube was incorporated. It's outside the pressure hull, between and above the shafts. Not a common arrangement in its day. Any advice/suggestions appreciated. Maybe someone has the sections for these or a similiar Electric boat design? My subs were built at Seattle as the Chilean Iquique and Antofagasta, but became HMCS/Ms CC1 and CC2 at the outbreak of WW1. << Can you give me any additional info, i.e. a series name?? I presume that these were Holland derived boats rather than Simon Lake designs. I have a book on US subs from the beginning through the end of WWII that has drawings of most of the different types, right back to the first Holland Subs. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "John L. Bishop" Subject: Titanic Modelling >> I've given in and bought both scale Titanic models. (smaller one for practice) Couple questions. 1) what is filler and can you use regular paints on it? << Squadron "green" putty is a substance that will fill cracks and is sandable/paintable. It should be available at your local hobby shop. From the nature of your question Bill, I'm going to assume that you are like me in that you haven't been modelling for a while, or are just starting out. I would HIGHLY reccomend "Building & Detailing Scale Model Ships" by Mke Ashey from the publisher of Fine Scale Modeler. This covers all the basics (and then some) that you will need to build a very nice looking model. It's what I've been looking at when I have a question (about every ten minutes). >> 2) what paint is best to use when a brush is required? Especially white paint - i've been using white acrylic for wall sections and stuff on the 1:570 scale titanic and its not looking too good. << Any white paint is hard to get good coverage with when using a brush. I highly reccomend you airbrush/spray paint these parts. >> 3) anyone cover the larger portholes and windows on either of the models with anything that looks like glass? << Here is what a fellow modeller reccomended that I do: Now if you realy want to go blind looking at portholes a company by the name of microscale makes a product called micro kristal klear (yes that is the way to spell it ) and what I did is first paint the outside normaly and then mask off the outside SUPER GOOD, then spray any metal color {aluminum or such} on the inside of the hull then making sure the tape is on real good again spray the interior brass, this turns all those portholes a bronze color on the rims of all the holes that you spent so much time on. Then with the kristal klear you can dip a toothpick in it and form the windows. Tadda you have some of the most pretty portholes you`ll ever see. ...For the larger windows/skylites, Roy Mengot reccomended that clear acetate (from a notebook binder) be used. As for the rest of the details, don't forget to visit Roy Mengot's site - it's fantastic! >> 4) To the person (sorry forgot your name) who was questioning how to light his 1:350 scale titanic, have you come up with anything yet? I'm about to use fiber optics but there are just so many portholes! << I'm still working on the lighting issue. I haven't found out very much about the fibre optics yet - but you don't have to route a fibre to each porthole. If you trim the end into a cone shape, it will diffuse light similar to a light bulb. John ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Dave Carter Subject: 1/700 Scale Russian Kits Hi Guys, We've just received the latest batch of 1/700 Scale Kombrig kits, resin productions of Russian subjects, if anyone is interested.. Petropavlovsk, Sevastapol Poltava and Kirov, all dated 1898, except for the Kirov (WW2 cruiser). The casting has improved quite dramatically on these kits since the first batch of Peter Veliikys awhile back. The Kirov in particular is beautifully cast in a dense grey resin, with virtually no cleaning up required, rather like Doc Modell but better in many respects (like you don't have sheets of carrier film to cut away). However, one problem is that, although with the battleships, you could get away with the lack of instructions, you will need to get your thinking caps on for the Kirov (there is, like the P.V. and the others, a photocopied plan and profile of the ship, which is hardly adequate). She is 10.5 inches long, and has many components... some drawings to at least assist placement of these parts would have been nice.. however, I guess good instructions cost time and money... My only criticism besides the lack of instructions on the Kirov,is the overstated deck planking, which is hand-scribed and looks out of scale.. however, maybe filling the corrugations then streaking with several close shades of wash would provide a better effect. If anyone would like price details, please E-Mail me. Caroline. P.S. I have also updated the "other manufacturers" resin kit lists..please check it out at http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/resinkit.htm White Ensign Models,Gardeners Cottage,Cowarne Court,Lower Eggleton, Ledbury,Herefordshire,HR8 2UF,U.K. Tel: 01432 820403 Fax: 01432 820830 http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/avenue/xdt22/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Dave Carter Subject: NEW WEM 1/700 SCALE RELEASES Hi Guys, The 1/700 Chester 1916 is coming into mainstraeam production now, along with a whole load more aircraft. The photoetch is up to Bluebell standard (hope everyone liked it by the way!) Our 1/700 Scale WW2 County Class cruiser, HMS Sussex, is not far off. The masters go into rubber next week... it has all the fine detail that Brian Fawcett could get on with his magnifier, and, I have to be honest, is more detailed than any 1/350 Scale kit I've ever seen... including our own!! It comes with the Airstrike Walrii, and a hugely detailed photoetched brass set. This is being made available separately at £8.30, so people can use it for the B-Resina kit, and the Japanese resin equivalent... which, of course, will have no brass... which no-one has requested off us so far.. they're all waiting for ours! The retail price on this will be £54.00 as it is about Iron Duke size. POST FREE WORLWIDE Please place your reservations with us or with Bill at Pacific Front Hobbies, if you're a regular with him.... NOW!! Cheers Caroline P.S. The 1/700 Kashmir IS going into production.. thanks to all of you who responded out there, including Pacific Front. It is £23.79 for the finished product with all that etched brass detail.. the retooled masters are here... we have seen them today for the first time since they were originally built and photographed. There is only one word to describe the detail...... PHENOMENAL!! You lucky guys are going to love this one! White Ensign Models,Gardeners Cottage,Cowarne Court,Lower Eggleton, Ledbury,Herefordshire,HR8 2UF,U.K. Tel: 01432 820403 Fax: 01432 820830 http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/avenue/xdt22/ Don't mind my husband Dave, he's just a smart ass through and through!!!!!! And you have to wonder what kind of woman would marry such a man???? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Dan Goodpasture Subject: Starline/Fleetline Models of Australia Has anyone heard about the status of this company? I received a flyer from them last year detailing their products and planned releases...They were going to do HMAS Sydney (mod Leander), which I was very excited about. I wrote them a few months ago asking about the status of this model and as of yet have received no reply. I have also noticed that their ads no longer run in FSM. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Sue & Ben Subject: Re: More Titanic Questions Hey Bill, >> 1) what is filler and can you use regular paints on it? << Filler, as the name implies, is used to fill in gaps on models much like 'mud' is used on drywall or auto body Spot & Glaze is used on cars. Although that sounds stupidly obvious, the term is used because so many diverse materials can be used. An in complete list would include: solvent based putties (Blue Spot & Glaze, Squadron Green or White, Tamiya's amongst them), epoxy putties, 5min epoxy, CA glues (ie. 'Krazy' glue), white glue (Elmer's, Bond Fast, etc.), etc. These have there good points and bad points (I'll elaborate if you ask) and can be painted. >> 2) what paint is best to use when a brush is required? Especially white paint - i've been using white acrylic for wall sections and stuff on the 1:570 scale titanic and its not looking too good. << Use only hobby paints. I'm old fashion and favor Humbrol in general (but not exclusively). However the best white I've found is Tamiya's even if I don't really like to work with their paints. This being said anybody's white is going to give you a hard time, requiring many coats. It's best to spray it on; at the risk of commiting heresy, let me say that spray cans can do the job just if you follow two simple rules. Firstly don't skimp, buy a good one like Model Master's or Tamiya's Flat White. Secondly before spraying immerse the can in warm water (not hot, you don't want to turn it into a hand grenade!); this allows the pressure to build up slightly and the paint to become less viscous. I should add that, whatever method you choose, always apply the lighter colours first. >> 3) anyone cover the larger portholes and windows on either of the models with anything that looks like glass? << Use 'Micro Krystal Klear'. It's white glue with an additive that makes it dry glossy and transparent, clear like..er...crystal :-). But as you say, there's an awful lot of portholes >> 4) To the person (sorry forgot your name) who was questioning how to light his 1:350 scale titanic, have you come up with anything yet? I'm about to use fiber optics but there are just so many portholes! << I think someone mentionned light sheet (sp?). HTH Ben My friends call me the Dictator of the Univers..... I think they are mocking me ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Joseph W. Divar" <110055.3477@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: More Titanic Questions Bill, Filler refers to any type of putty. Yes you can paint over modeling putty that is designed for the hobby. I use a number of different types; Milliput® when I need some working time before curing, Squadron Green®, or the Tamiya "Grey" putty. All are sandable and paint nicely when applied with care. Never, under any circumstances, never use Testor's line of putty. When using "white" and striving for opacity I like to primer first. I recommend utilizing white aerosol primer before your first coat of white. You can even use Krylon sandable lacquer based primer with care. Applied correctly you won't cover up any details when using it from a can. Airbrushing works best, however, you seem to be emphasizing dry brushing. Also remember to paint from lightest color to darkest. When doing my Revell Titanic I puttied, sanded, primered, touch-up puttied, reprimered, then base coated Model Master's semi-gloss white with a little sienna mixed in. Once completed I did the red portions and lastly the black/navy blue. The Revell kit truly does not look good until you're almost complete. The key is patience and a respect for what you have in front of you. Remember it's a $12.95 kit and isn't supposed to be museum quality out of the box. With care you'll have something that you won't be embarrassed to show, trust me. WRT to the porthole. On the contrary I believe I took a #55 drill bit mounted on a pin vise an drilled out each and everyone of the "raised panel" lined portholes. This may have resulted in a somewhat stylized representation to some purists here, but it provided some sharp relief detail to an otherwise soft looking piece. Mine was done on commission for the local Tinsel Town Cineplex. They wanted something to display opening night and approached our local IPMS chapter for a volunteer. Call me stupid, I volunteered. Now I'm campaigning for the 1/350 kit as a future present from my wife. Good luck, and infinite patience with that Revell Titanic. There were times I almost threw in the towel. Plenty of things to keep you down, molded in railing, incomplete and deformed decking, poor fit, lack of viable painting references, etc. Regards, Joe & Mary Divar ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: louellet@uism.bu.edu Subject: Re: Titanic Bill, >> 1) what is filler and can you use regular paints on it? << Filler is plastic putty used to fill in seams and sink holes on your model. Once sanded down smooth and flush, just paint right over it. Some fillers are porous, so they need to be primed first. Try it on some spare parts or scrap trees from the kit. >> 2) what paint is best to use when a brush is required? Especially white paint - i've been using white acrylic for wall sections and stuff on the 1:570 scale titanic and its not looking too good. << White is best applied over a light grey base coat. Some people use a very light grey instead of white. Does anyone have any specific paints that would be good for this application? >> 3) anyone cover the larger portholes and windows on either of the models with anything that looks like glass? << Use Micro Crystal Clear. It is a white glue that dries clear. Use it to fill in the drilled out portholes. It can be used to create window glass on the larger holes by using a toothpick to apply the glue to one side of the window, and creating a 'bubble' over to the other side of the window frame. >> 4) To the person (sorry forgot your name) who was questioning how to light his 1:350 scale titanic, have you come up with anything yet? I'm about to use fiber optics but there are just so many portholes! << You don't need to run fiber optic strands to every porthole. Use bundles of fibers to get light to an area you want lit. I have heard that you can use a heat source to flatten the end of a fiber, creating a kind of lamp. This will help disperse the light. I'm sure others will have some good ideas for lighting this kit. Larry ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume