Subject: SMML21/02/98VOL097 shipmodels@wr.com.au --------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- INDEX 1: Re: 1/350 USS Salem & Zap on clear plastic part 2: Zap on clear plastic part 3: Zap-a-Gap and the nasty white stuff 4: Re: Zap-a-Gap and the nasty white stuff 5: OHP Class Helipad/SH60-B 6: Keyport Hobby Center 7: Re: Zap CA White Stuff 8: SMML is 100 9: Re: Flying Cloud Plans 10: merchant ship books 11: Re: finding oop kits 12: Re: HAPPY 100th !!!!! 13: 1/350 HMS Queen Elizabeth 1943 by Iron Shipwright 14: Oliver Hazard Perry Flight Deck ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Sue & Ben Subject: Re: 1/350 USS Salem & Zap on clear plastic part >> And I was also looking for a way to get rid of that horrible white stuff left behind when you use Zap on clear plastic parts? << Hey Greg, Not a problem. Use a Q-Tip or a paint brush with a little rubbing alcohol on it and gently swipe the area. Of course this assumes you can reach it... HTH Ben >> Through an arrangement with Classic Warships, we are offering 1/350 scale resin kits of the USS Salem. [ . . . ] Price of $225.00 includes shipping and handling. Price reflects a 10% discount from distributor price. All proceeds go to the USS Salem Preservation and restoration project. << What a clever (and tempting!) idea. More warship preservation groups should do this. The down side is, at the current exchange rate, US$225 is about Cdn$100,000.... :-/ Ben ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ddevers@viagrafix.com (Doug Devers) Subject: Zap on clear plastic part >> And I was also looking for a way to get rid of that horrible white stuff left behind when you use Zap on clear plastic parts? << Well, although I'm new to ship kits, I have done plenty of airplanes, and my recommendation is: Don't get anywhere near a clear part with any kind of CA glue. It WILL craze the plastic. I use Testors adhesive for clear parts, it works like a charm, and is a decent gap filler, too. Doug Who thinks most people take life FAR too seriously... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Zap-a-Gap and the nasty white stiff Greg, The best away around the nasty white residue left behind by CA is to coat the glass with stuff called "The Final Touch". It's a wax / polishing compound. Good quality carnuba wax will also have the same effect. I know Squadron mailor order carries it, it should be available locally down there. Jeff Herne ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: Re: Zap-a-Gap and the nasty white stuff >> And I was also looking for a way to get rid of that horrible white stuff left behind when you use Zap on clear plastic parts? << The "horrible white stuff" is something all cyanoacrylate glues deposit when going through their polymerization process, although some brands exibit fewer deposits than others. Instead of using ZAP or any other brand of "superglue", try using a white polyvinyl acetate glue, such as "Elmer's" (sold here in the U.S.), for attaching clear parts. Simply place a small portion of white glue on a suitable palette, dilute it 50% with water, and then use a fine-tip paint brush to apply the glue while the part is being held in place with your other hand or with tape. If your glue is properly thinned, capillary action will cause the white glue to travel around the periphery of the clear part without actually marring the surface. It also dries clear (although of a flat finish), and will take gloss coats or paint very well. Bob Steinbrunn, NRG IPMS #3345 Minneapolis, MN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Joseph W. Divar" <110055.3477@compuserve.com> Subject: OHP Class Helipad/SH60-B >> I was told briefly about the track that runs from the hangars around the Fantail/Helipad which also doubles as a Tie down, The CO also told me it has some kind of Ram that comes up to hook on to the Helo to pull it down safely in rough seas? << What you saw was the RAST (Recovery Assist Secure & Traverse) system. The heart of the of the system is the RSD (rapid securing device), the big baseball plate looking thing with the jaws. The helo has an RSD probe that the pilots have to place in the 3' X 2' opening day or night . The LSO, from the LSO shack, operates the machinery to either secure the helo with the jaws after the landing or either keep it open for free deck bounces. The winch system is called the RA (Recovery Assist) cable. The RSD when spotted correctly will be over on of two cable points on the flight deck. The flight deck crew can pay out the cable on deck and the helo will lower a "messenger" cable to mate with the RA cable. When connected the helo pulls the cable into the aircraft where it secures inside the splined RA probe. In rough seas, up to sea state 5, you can "assist" the helo over the RSD by applying hover tension to the cable as the LSO. All LAMPS pilots are eventually LSO qualified. The traverse part incorporates the use of the RSD and a means to traverse the helo in and out of the hangar. That's what those tracks are for. Necessary since the SH-60B weighs over 20,000 lbs when loaded. Not like the old days in SH-2Fs when you just had a tilly bar and the deck crew spot it in and out of the hangar. We call them "rails". Usually most ships are equipped with two. That's regardless of whether she carries two or one bird in the barn. You'll see some Spruances and Perrys without a rail or maybe just one. These are usually the older "H-2" ships that have had a single rail mod or no mod. Regards, Joe & Mary Divar ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Pacific Front Hobbies Subject: Keyport Hobby Center scam I would advise using extreme caution if you are contacted by a "Keyport Hobby Center" out of Keyport WA. This is probably the old Pearl Model Ship Co, (and other aliases) which has ripped off a lot manufacturers, advertisers and consumers. Bill Gruner http://www.pacificfront.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------7) From: ModelerAl@aol.com Subject: Re: Zap CA White Stuff >> I was also looking for a way to get rid of that horrible white stuff left behind when you use Zap on clear plastic parts? << Brushing some Future/Kleer floor polish on them will restore their clarity. You might want to consider using "odorless" super glue on clear parts in the future -- it doesn't fog clear, painted, or plated parts. HTH, Al ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Mitchell Subject: Re: SMML is 100 SMML wrote: >> ***NOTE*** SMML is 100 issues old on tuesday! I am wondering what we can do to make this volume extra special? Any Ideas? << Have a Fosters' on me, mate :) Paul ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Flying Cloud Plans The following info is from Ben Lankford on the Seaways list: >> Taubman Plan Service has a Flying Cloud, from the AJ Fisher kit. AJF-80 catalog number. Bluejacket used to have a Flying Cloud but seem s t6o have been discontinued. Note that any Flying Cloud plans you find will be a reconstruction. << Hope this helps, John Snyder ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Joanne Sloan Subject: merchant ship books Hi, I'm a recent subscriber and am enjoying this list. I wonder if anyone out there can help me with references for WWII era merchant vessels. My books are for warships only, so I can read about convoy escorts, but not convoy members. I'd appreciate any suggested titles. Thanks, Mark Sloan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: finding oop kits >> In reading the posts I notice references to kit collectors. Since I have been trying for months to find a kit, any decent scale of the WWII Landing Ship Medium, LSM. Can anyone steer me toward one or more of these collectors, who would possibly have something, such as the Lindberg kit that went OOP a year or two ago? I would sure appreciate any help finding the kit. I have only the Skywave 1/700 kit, which is not really doing the job for me. << Paul, To try to track down an out-of-production kits, try one or more of the following: 1. But a copy of Fine Scale Modeler magazine. Back in the classified ads you will find several dealers in old kits. 2. Write to my friend Dennis Bowman, he has a great hobby shop that is full of nothing but kits from the 60's and before. Mr. B's Hobbies, 406B East Main Steet, Mount Joy, PA 17552. 3. Get the Kit Collector's Clearing house magazine. KCC, 3213 Hardy Drive, Edmond, OK 73013. 4. Go to a kit show. There are a few locally but no knowing where you live I cannot help there. Hope this is of some help. Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: HAPPY 100th !!!!! Greg, I don't know how to make it special, but I will tell you that I really like this list. It's more like the guys sitting around grousing about the hobby. Well done !!! and keep it up. Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Rob Mackie" Subject: 1/350 HMS Queen Elizabeth 1943 by Iron Shipwright Iron Shipwright has announced that it will be releasing the 1/350 battleship HMS Queen Elizabeth 1943. The kit will be available at the IPMS USA Nationals this July in Santa Clara, California. Mastered by Jon Warneke, this will be a one piece full hull kit with complete etched brass sheet and two Walrus floatplanes. Price has yet to be established. You can view the master pattern in the News section of Warship at: http://warship.simplenet.com/news.htm Rob Mackie El Cerrito, California Warship http://warship.simplenet.com The Free Site for Ship Modelers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: CapnTroy@aol.com Subject: Oliver Hazard Perry Flight Deck >> On my recent visit to the USS Ford, I was told briefly about the track that runs from the hangars around the Fantail/Helipad which also doubles as a Tie down, The CO also told me it has some kind of Ram that comes up to hook on to the Helo to pull it down safely in rough seas? Anybody ever seen/heard of this? << Greg, The system that you a referring to is called R.A.S.T., I forget what that stood for, but basically, when it was time for a helo like the SH-60 to land on the deck of an OHP, the traversing cart would trolley down the track from the helo hanger and stop in the landing area, the helo would hover about 20-40 feet above this cart and lower a wire messenger to the deck. A flight deck crewman would attach a larger wire from a below decks winch to this messenger and that would be pulled up to the underside of the helo and locked in place. When this was done, the pilot would apply full upward thrust to maintain a tight strain on the wire and the flight deck officer would take in the winch and basically reel the helo down to the deck and land him on top of the traversing cart. This usually only needed to be done during heavy weather when the deck was pitching. After the helo was on deck, a set of jaws on the traversing cart would close around a rod that protruded from the belly of the helo, securing him to the flightdeck. The rotors would then be folded and the traversing cart would tow the helo into the hanger. I spent 5 years on the USS Curts FFG-38 and we were the first Perry ever to deploy with two SH-60's aboard, so I got to watch this alot. Well, that's probably more than you wanted to know, but you asked.... Troy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume