Subject: SMML05/03/98VOL109 shipmodels@wr.com.au --------------------------------- INDEX 1: Re: D&S 2: 1/350th Tamiya Ninitz 3: Re: Primer Problem: Help! 4: Re: Painting Photo-etch 5: Re: Primer Problem: Help! 6: busy/help 7: Battle Class Destroyer 8: 1/700 Battleship Viribus Unitis by WSW-Doc Modell 9: Flower Class for sale. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SantMin Subject: Re: D&S >> Sorry, D&S is a series of Books from Kalmbach Books aimed at giving modellers a close up look at their subject, that they would most likely not normally be able to get. To my knowledge, vol39 is still available, Kalmbach have a toll free 24hr line, << I think Squadron Shop took over Detail & SCale. Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Ritchie_deutag, Colin" Subject: 1/350th Tamiya Ninitz >> I have seen rumours that Tamiya are about to expand their 1/350 range after the success of Fletcher. One of these rumours is about a US WW2 Escort Carrier, but a wilder one says that they are considering Nimitz. Given the fact that they could box all Nimitz variants together, it doesn`t seem that ridiculous a business proposition. Does anyone know anything about this - or is it wishful thinking? << I'm afraid I have no direct info on the Nimitz, and I confess it's the first time I've heard this particular rumour. The talk of a 350th Essex has sufaced from time to time, and has been directly refuted by Tamiya execuitives at least once . Although Tamiya can and do spring suprises on builders, (He-219, F4D Skyray), my gut feeling is that this is unlikley. The tooling costs for a hull the size of a nimitz would be extrodnary, even by Tamiya's standards. Keep wishing, but I don't think so, (Nothing like sticking your neck out!) Colin Ritchie ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: NEFFD@detroitedison.com Subject: Re: Primer Problem: Help! Regarding Paint and primer not sticking to washed parts: >> ... washing them in warm water with dishwashing detergent... << Dishwashing detergents contain Lanolin Oil to help prevent "dish pan hands." The oil remains on your model surfaces and prevents primer and paint from sticking well. Use laundry detergent instead of dish detergent and be careful in handling the washed model so you don't get oil on it from your hands. I usually rinse the parts in a bath of paint thinner (not lacquer thinner!) to remove all traces of oil immediately before painting them. I don't know how this would affect resin materials though. I remove the parts from the thinner with tweezers or pliers so I don't touch them with my fingers and lay them on paper towel to dry before painting them. Don Neff ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: BECJPARKER Subject: Re: Painting Photo-etch Some ideas on painting PE. First don't paint it before you put it on the ship. You use CY Glue and it will have the paint between the plastic or resin and the PE railing will more likely seperate after you finish the kit, (week to a year or so). Glue clean PE (no Paint to Clean plastic or resin or white metal). The best way I have found to clean PE is to wipe it with acetone. This will get any foreign material off the PE and will evaporate quickly. Use fresh CY glue the stuff has a shelf life. You can use any of the thicknesses of glue. Also bend and test fit your PE first then glue it down. Sould simple but a lot of folks try to bend the PE aroundcurves and it's sort of a no win situation. So put the bend in first and test fit. Use Floqual paint or another good enamel, acrylics don't work as well on brass, resin, or white metal. You can use a primer if you want. Thin with Lacquor thinner, or acetone, acetone dries even faster than LT. To keep base colors from bleeding through put down a coat of Future Floor wax between coats. It dries fast and you can come back and paint (brush or spray) in about an hour or two after the Future. Separating enamels with an acrylic will keep the two types of paint from interacting and bleeding, but don't use the acetone or LT as the thiner for the brush enamel over the Future. Use one of the paint manufactures thinners. To get in the hard to reach places take a small brush and bend it so you can paint at angles. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: montreal@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: Re: Primer Problem: Help! >> I recently purchased the Waveline 1/700 HMS Abdiel (magnificent doesn't go far enough to describe this kit). When opening the box I noticed that Waveline is using a new, harder resin, which has a glossy finish. Anyhow, after cleaning up the main components and washing them in warm water with dishwashing detergent, I primed them with Floquil gray primer from the spray can--my personal favorite. After letting the primer dry, I noticed when cleaning up some areas with a razor blade or sandpaper after priming, that the primer was flaking off quite liberally in the areas being sanded or scraped. Likewise, when applying Testors liquid cement to small areas being spot--filled with Squadron White Stuff (I was using the cement to soften the putty) the primer wrinkled up instantly and pulled away from the resin surface. << You may have one of three problems here. First is the possibility of having bad primer, or the primer reacting with some residual uncured resin. The second it could be is that the release agent may be some kind of agent impervious the the detergent. However, what it may be is the resin. If it's harder (or denser) than usual, the surface may be so smooth that the primer had nothing to adhere to. What you might want to do is to wet sand the hull with 600 grit wet sandpaper, and provide it with some tooth. Also, this would also remove and remaining release agent or uncured resin that might be there. Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights "Oh my god, they killed Paco!" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Ronnie Hiatt Subject: busy/help Hi gang, I have been pretty busy building simple kits. I have built USS the Sullivans DD-537 that I got from Santos (thanks) it turned out beautiful, USS Growler WWII Sub, also turned out great and USS North Carolina, terrible kit, hull was warped badly, but I managed to make it look reasonable. I am somewhat new to model shipbuilding so I have been building these smaller less expensive kits to hone my skills. I have seen photos on the web of models that are in wooden boxes and appear to be at sea, (in water) how is this done? what materials are used? I would really appreciate it if someone would explain to me this process. I also want to build a larger scale ship, I have a USS Melvin "Blue Devil" Destroyer in 1/125 but it isn't very detailed. Is the Tamiya 1/350 Battleships considered large scale? and are they well detailed? In other words which large scale kit would you recomend for someone who is adequate but not a pro-modeler? Thanks Guys! RH ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Graham Holmes Subject: Battle Class Destroyer I am building a Battle class destroyer, and references are a bit scare, but I believe there was an "Ensign" booklet or maybe a "Profile" booklet made many years ago. Is this right? If so does anyone know where I can get a copy, or if not can I get a xerox copy. Will be glad to pay costs. Many thanks Graham Holmes ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Rob Mackie" Subject: 1/700 Battleship Viribus Unitis by WSW-Doc Modell Doc Modell is known for the outstanding quality of his 1/700 resin kits. With the WW1 Austro Hungarian battleship Viribus Unitis he has raised the bar even higher. You can view this magnificent example of resin casting in the Warship review at http://warship.simplenet.com/viribus.htm Rob Mackie El Cerrito, California Warship http://warship.simplenet.com The Free Site for Ship Modelers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: witsie/ken mckelvy Subject: Flower Class for sale. Saw this on Hobyweb's Classified Page: Posted by Greg Nichols GJN238@aol.com Feb 13 7:2:17 1998 Matchbox - Flower Class Corvette 1/72 C $45.00 The posting is pretty old, but if it interests anyone ... The price seems reasonable from what I've seen elsewhere. Ken McKelvy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume