Subject: SMML15/03/98VOL119 shipmodels@wr.com.au --------------------------------- INDEX 1: Re: Intorduction 2: Re: Carrier aircraft 3: Info-photos needed Salem, Des Moines Cruisers 4: Yamato colors 5: Re: Yamato colors 6: Re: true colors 7: Re: USCG Cutter 8: Realistic Water Subject 9: One Quick Question 10: subs 11: HMS INVINCIBLE 12: WW II C.G. Cutter 13: USCG Cutter Roger B. Taney 14: Card Model Ship Kits ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Ronnie Hiatt Subject: Re: Intorduction Hi folks, Just wanted to let you know a bit about me, sorta' putting a real person to a letter. I am a DAV, Paralyzed American Vet. (double amputee). I served on the USS Kitty Hawk in NAM and was later transfered to the USS Corry DD-817 (Sumner Class) then the USS Mullinix. I am pretty much housebound and can't get around very well, so I have to either have a friend pick up a model for me or do the mail-order thing. I don't mind mail order from an individual but most Hobby Shops wanna' do credit Cards, I don't do that. I would rather use the US Post Office Money Order type transaction. I have dealt with Santos Miniatures, and others. All have been very fair and shipped my requests in a very quick manner. Most Hobby shops take FOREVER to ship a kit paid for by P.O.Money order, I don't know why? they just do! I am now building my last kit :-( I have ran out! I want to get more! If anyone has any they wish to sell, please let me know! I'm interested in ANY US WWII Ships/Boats USS Lionfish WWII Sub PT-109 ANY of the Tamiya Battleships...prefer USA..consider other! or any other kits you might wish to sell or if you can find any ships to send to me. I always send M.O. first and as you can tell I enjoy the plastic kits best. p.s. the larger the scale, the better! Regards RH ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: KDur597268 Subject: Re: Carrier aircraft To all - Thanks very much to all for the posts concerning early war carrier a/c.. . this looks like a great group! I'll be back with more neophyte queries. Special thanks to Bill Gruner for "what's actually available" !! I've always had such great encounters with this gentleman. I will e-mail you Bill to find out what I need to do to get about 24 SBD's. The assorted others won't hurt! I want to do CV-6 (or CV-8) at Midway on 6/4/42 . . . I don't know how many of you know about it (might as well do a quick pitch here!) but there's a Battle of Midway website: http://www.centuryinter.net/midway/ Yes... some of my work happens to be on it, but as ship modelers, I thought you should know about the site! (:-) Ken Durling ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Johnston" Subject: Info-photos needed Salem, Des Moines Cruisers Anyone have any titles of books containing good photgraphic info on the above ships. I know the Salem is a museum ship in Quincy, but that is a little far from me here in New Zealand otherwise I would visit. Also I was a little late only just catching the end of the 'color police' series of exchanges and would be interested in the appropriate colours for the above ships circa late 40's. Many thanks in advance Raynor Johnston Hamilton New Zealand ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Fredrik Tholander" Subject: Yamato colors Hi everyone! I just bought myself a Nichimo !/200 Yamato kit. Truly a GREAT Kit. However the instructions are in Japanese and the photos in the manual are in b/w. Could anyone give me a suggestion of what colors to use for the hull, deck and so on. All the best, Fredrik Tholander ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Greg Lee (Listamaster - SMML) Subject: Yamato colors Hi, Last year I built ARII's 1/250 Yamato, which is also quiet nice, and for that I used Tamiyas Hull Red with a pinch of Brown in it for below the waterline. And Dark Sea Grey for the superstructure, guns, hull etc.... For the decks, I used Humbrol ochre, but if I was doing it again now, I would use Loren Perry's Floquil Mud, Walnut and Driftwood staining process. The aircraft deck is a little darker, with a dash of German Grey in with the Dark Sea Grey, and Again, ochre on the non-slip strips. I was very happy with the contrast of colours at the end of the project. It might be worth having a peek at the 1/50 Yamato on NAVISMAGAZINE.COM, And Nihon Kaijun at http://www.skypoint.com/members/jbp/kaigun.htm Japanese Naval Power http://www2.gol.com/users/billlise/jnp/ might also have useful info. And definately get yourself a copy of Janusz Skulski's Anatomy of the Ship. Greg (Listmaster - SMML) P.S.Don't forget Yamato didn't have a black boot top line! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SantMin Subject: Re: true colors Jon has it right on !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Another hobby I partake in is military figures so I am always on the lookout for detail. Right before I retired I was at a meeting and there were about a dozen navy officers present. Guess what, all in uniform and no two dressed exactly alike. We have an old saying that goes "Anything that is called UNIFORM, isn't." The next problem is "memory". I try to recall some of the interior colors in aircraft that I flew in and the best I can come up with is an approximation, and then again, each of the aircraft were a little different, depending on age, wear, last overhall, etc. It gets me when some young "expert" who was never involved, knows all the true colors with absolute certainty. I just laugh. I know better. Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SantMin Subject: Re: USCG Cutter >> There's a Revell issue of the Roger B. Taney for sale on eBay right now. The URL for its page follows: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8212599 << If you check that out, get back to me. I also have one for sale and bet I can beat the price. Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "T. J. KOENIGSFELD" Subject: Realistic Water Subject A question from T. J. Koenigsfeld, Could anybody out there tell me about how to make realistic water for my models? Some of you have been discussing it, but I am still confused about making a "base". If somebody could tell me where pictures of these realistic water pages are on the internet, I would be very grateful. It sounds really interesting and could make my models look really great to show off to my friends ect. Also, with all this hoopla about the Titanic, I decided I could add it to my collection, but I havent been able to find any of the Revell-Monogram models of it yet. If anybody knows of any place where they are not sold out, could you let me know? Thanks A lot fellow ship modellers! T. J. Koenigsfeld ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Buttner1 Subject: One Quick Question Am looking for a waterline model of the USS St.Paul(Baltimore Class)heavy cruiser. Where should I look.... Thanks, John Buttner ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Paul Feenstra" Subject: subs Hallo, looking for sub models off WW2 and WW1 Many thanks from Paul ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: DHJonesPSM Subject: HMS INVINCIBLE Gary, The model will be of the current ship to bear the name, veteran of the Falklands War. The Revell kit is scheduled for release in August-September 1998 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: DHJonesPSM Subject: WW II C.G. Cutter Revell currently markets a kit of the Treasury class cutter ROGER B TANEY and the cutter/icebreaker EASTWIND. Both are old kits from the fifties and are about 1/300 scale. Both can be built into outstanding models, particularly as Gold Medal Models has just released a special sheet of photo etched brass designed specifically for these two kits. Using this new sheet from Loren Perry (GMM) the kits can be brought up to the current state of the art. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: USCG Cutter Roger B. Taney Folks: For those of you interested in modeling the WWII USCG Cutter Roger Taney; if I'm correct, she is still around, serving as a museum ship in the Baltimore Harbor Inner Harbor area, right next to the aquarium. Hope this is of use to someone out there. Best wishes, Mike Eisenstadt ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "MaxLoosli" Subject: Card Model Ship Kits Hello I've noticed the messages re Card Ship Models and thought I'd contribute my tuppence worth. Being a 'plastics' person I got the 1/400 Dreadnought (card), photocopied it and used spraymount adhesive to stick the copies to plasticard, the idea being to give me templates for all the parts that would lead to a complete ship ........... Did you know that the spraymount adhesive does something nasty to plasticard ? I got over that by using the non-adhesived side as the out-face. Everything was proceeding swimmingly(ish), I had a waterline hull, with the major superstructure developing well when the 'Book of the Ship' came out. I was delighted, all that reference, those details, the arrangement drawings, the accurate plans ............ It was when I couldn't get things to fit that I went back and checked the basic dimensions, and as you'd expect it was all slightly out (but not consistently in any given plane)! After a long period of depression/irritation/frustration I had just got wound up to have another go when Scale Model International did a piece on a scratchbuilt 1/400 or 1/350 Dreadnought, and I then heard that a resin 1/350 one is coming soon. So in the mean time I will struggle on with a resin Hiryu 1/700 Dreadnought (and I mean struggle). None of this has put me off card models by the way, I have a 1/200 Hood, a 1/200 Warspite, a 1/250 Lion, plus a few more. I suppose I ought to say that I am now doing a 1/350 Lion (yes, reduced from the 1/250 card one) using paper templates stuck to plasticard (although I now use removeable post-it type glue). I keep coming up with very rational reasons why I shouldn't do things like this, but I can't seem to keep myself convinced .......... ! Pass me the scissors mother, I can feel a model coming ........ Best regards, Max Loosli ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume