Subject: SMML26/3/98Vol130 shipmodels@wr.com.au ============================================================================ MODELLERS INDEX 1: Light Grey - and Paint in Greneral 2: IJN Arashi@Midway 3: Flat paint, glosscote, decals & dullcote 4: Wal-Mart light gray = haze gray 5: Re: Signature block 6: Re: Address Sigs and Light Grey. 7: Asiatic Fleet 4 Pipers 8: Re: Polly S paints 9: Re: Address Sigs and Light Grey 10: Re: Asiatic Fleet Destroyers 11: Light Grey 12: Re: Asiatic Fleet Destroyers ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: War built destroyers O to Z classes ============================================================================ MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Ritchie_deutag, Colin" To: "shipmodels@wr.com.au" (Return requested) >> My other question is If I paint an area in flat, then gloss coat it, apply decals, and then dull coat it, will I get a desired result? Or Would I be best to find a gloss equivalent to the Tamiya Light Grey (XF-66) I have been using? (If so, anybody know a good match?) << Hi there Greg Re your question about glossing and then flattening paint, As a reformed(!) aircraft modeller I've been round this subject more than once. To answer your initial question, yes glossing, applying the decals and then matting again will work fine. However you may have problems, A) the gloss varnish may tend to change the underlying paint colour, usually darkening it. B) The build up of layers, Gloss, Decal & then matt will have an effect in "Thickening" the paint finish. This may be a problem in smaller scale ships with very fine detail. By using Gloss paint, these effects can obviously be reduced. For aircraft modelling I still use the Xtra colour range from Hannants in the UK. These are high gloss enamels out of the tin. Obviously this removes one step in the chain. The main problems however are that these colours are aimed at aircraft modellers, and colour matching may be an issue, and second they can't really be successfully applied by brush, spray only. I would urge you to have a look at these paints, the US aircraft range is tied to the FS595A fanfold, and you should, I guess be able to match shades there to the colours you want. If anyone is interested, I'd happily copy the relevant pages from the Hannants catalogue and send them out , this will allow you to cross reference their numbers to the FS no's Colin Ritchie ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: KDur597268 Subject: IJN Arashi@Midway Hello all - I'm trying to find out where to go to find out if the IJN DD "Arashi" had had her katakana side designation removed by Midway or not. So far I've checked r.m.s., e-mailed the author of "Long Lancers" from Kaigun page. and nothing yet. Hoping one of you can help. You can tell me yes or no, but since I'm kinda new to ship modeling, I'd love to know some references. Thanks in advance - Ken Durling ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Terry Sumner" Subject: Flat paint, glosscote, decals & dullcote Greg, The answer to your question is yes. We airplane guys almost always have to do it this way because 99% of the military colors we need come in flat finish only. As a result, we always have to apply a clear gloss coat to be able to lay down the decals. Then, a flat finish such as Testor's Dullcote goes on top for the flat finish. The Dullcote is lacquer based which enables enamel based washes and weathering to then be applied w/out danger of eating up the finish. My system is any kind of paint for the colors, followed by ModelMaster enamel clear gloss Topcoat, followed by decals, then Testor's Dullcote, then the wash, and lastly whatever other weathering such as pastel dusts. Hope this helps, Terry Sumner ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: Wal-Mart light gray = haze gray? Another poster previously recommended a $.99 spray can of light gray as a good match for modern ships, i.e., haze gray. The only thing I could find was a $.98 can of flat gray (at least according to cap color). Is that the same stuff? BTW, it *does* look pretty good on a 1:700 ship. Maybe a bit too dark.... Les ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SantMin Subject: Re: Signature block >> Yes it is. Simply preface the individual's email address with mailto: This would be simpler if each user would add such a line to their signature. Let's see if it works on mine. << Would be nice but AOL does not support a signature block. Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Ronnie Hiatt Subject: Re: Address Sigs and Light Grey. >> I love the idea of adding "mailto" to postings, BTW,I think it will only work for those who are reading the list in a browser, like an all in one package like Netscape Communicator or Internet Explorer 4 where you can activate an e-mail address like a link, but for those of us who are using a mail client like Eudora, I am not so sure if it will be of use? Anybody know for sure? << I don't believe it'll work using a shell Greg, however the majority (I'd bet if you took a vote) uses a browser such a Netscape/Explorer etc.... for these folks it'll work great if you html it in their sig. as a link. For those using a shell, no biggie, you still can read the address and manually respond. For You Greg.......I hope this answers your question! Now my questions ;-) Hi modelers. I try to support my local Hobby Shop when possible. I travel the 27 miles, all excited, money burning a hole in my pocket, just can't wait to get a couple USS Lionfish kits and a couple PT-109'S, Tamiya's USS MISSOURI, a couple planes I needed to finish a specific project. When I get there, there's ONE Tamiya ship! ONE! the Enterprise. No Lionfish Subs, No PT-109'S, I did buy (gamble) on a Lindberg 1/350 Bismarck, Has anyone ever built this kit? Looks fairly simple, at least it's a one piece hull, a big + far as I'm concerned. Are there any special fittings made for or will work with this kit? I also have the USS MELVIN "Blue Devil" Destroyer in 1/125 I am building for static display only, (not sailing it in the swimming pool ;-) Are there any accessories/fittings/ideas to make it look a bit better? or a LOT better? Thank Goodness for this list! I am mail ordering from a couple list members a few ships. I still need/want a couple USS Lionfish Subs (trying my first sub diorama I hope) also 2-3 PT-109'S (same thing, for a diorama attempt!) Special thanks to Tom D.! who has agreed to go way above and beyond the call of duty to help someone special. Thanks Ronnie Hiatt mailto:oldsteel@bellsouth.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: John VCP Subject: Asiatic Fleet 4 Pipers In checking my reference material (lots) I have come up with the following info. 1. The DD's over there were still in pre-war paint scheme (light gray) - although the hull numbers on the bows may have been painted-out and replaced by small numbers. No photos survived to tell us. I do remember an article about the "Stewart" (DD224) some years ago (can't find it now that I need it!) that showed her in the drydock at Soerabaja, Java after scuttling and it (I think) showed the large, shadowed hull number on the bow. She became the Jap Patrol Boat "T102"; which would make an interesting model!!! 2. They all seemed to be armed with 4 - 4" and one (1) 3" (3 pdr) AA - which, it seems in most cases, was mounted on the main deck - aft of the after deckhouse. 3. There is conflicting info as to whether the after 4" was mounted on the deckhouse or on the maindeck - aft of the deck house (with the 3" AA then mounted on the deckhouse)! Both configurations existed. 4. "Alden" (DD 211) appears in a photo (Nov 42) in overall dark gray, small hull number fwrd and a shield on both the fwrd and aftermost 4" mounts. The aft 4" in on top of the after deckhouse. 5. A photo of the "John D. Ford" (DD228) taken on 18 Sept 1927 in the Yangtze River, shows a shield on the fwrd 4"; and a photo taken Aug 42 at Mare Island says that the "splinter shield" was added to her after 4" gun - so the fwrd 4" shield was still there from 1927. The after 4" is on top of the after house. 6. I would guess that the tops of the funnels still had the narrow black bands - as they were too busy fighting to do a lot of painting back there in '41 and '42. 7. I would bet that the ship's name was still on the stern (same reason as #6). 8. I also doubt if any of the ships' boats were landed. Hope this helps. John Heasel ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Ives100 Subject: Re: Polly S paints The Polly S paint line has been replaced by the Polly Scale line. Both are water based acrylics; Floquil is the oil based equivalent line. Polly scale will be relased in all the old Polly S colors, and has been inproved (supposedly) to airbrush much better than the old Polly S line. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Address Sigs and Light Grey >> I love the idea of adding "mailto" to postings, BTW,I think it will only work for those who are reading the list in a browser, like an all in one package like Netscape Communicator or Internet Explorer 4 where you can activate an e-mail address like a link, but for those of us who are using a mail client like Eudora, I am not so sure if it will be of use? Anybody know for sure? << Well this is written in Eudora, and my email address is part of my sig. Is it a link?? >> My other question is If I paint an area in flat, then gloss coat it, apply decals, and then dull coat it, will I get a desired result? << If the result you seek is a clear backing on decals without the "silvering" you get when you apply over matt paint, yes, this is a standard technique in the aircraft and armor modeling world. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: PulligS Subject: Re: Asiatic Fleet Destroyers As per question and answers about asiatic fleet cans. Fahey's 1939 shows CHILDS AVD-1 as a Cramp ship andWilliam B. Preston DD-344 as a Mare Island Yard ship. Fahey's Two ocean Fleet Edition shows it as AVD-7 . they were converted 1938-1940. they first wore AVP #s. The 1939 edition only shows CHILDS and WILLIAMSON As converted to AVP's They took the lower AVD's #s because the oldBird class ships did not convert to AVD#s Samuel W. Pullig PulligS@AOL.Com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Alberto Rada Subject: Light Grey Hi Greg First of all, the new format is great, On your other question, >> My other question is If I paint an area in flat, then gloss coat it, apply decals, and then dull coat it, will I get a desired result? << With my very limited experience I'll dare an opinion, I paint it, use a coat of gloss, put the decals, use another coat of gloss just where the decals where applied, and then a dull coat, in Ships I have done so in vertical surfaces, and the result is a slight semi - gloss, which to me looks more realistic in ship hulls ? ? ? SALUDOS Alberto mailto:rada@argonaut.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: John VCP Subject: Re: Asiatic Fleet Destroyers Found another photo - the "Paul Jones" (DD230) taken at Manila Bay just at the start of the war - light gray paint; black funnel bands; "shadowed" hull number on bow; the forward 4" has a splinter shield; can't tell about the 3" AA, as an awnning is over the stern - but there are two dark, square objects on the main deck at the stern - one could be the AA with a canvas cover. After 4" is on top of the after deckhouse - no shield. John Heasel ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: CHRIS DRAGE Subject: War built destroyers O to Z classes Hi Guys, If anyone is interested in a copy of the Ensign series no.6: "War built destroyers O to Z classes"? Give me a buzz and we'll come to some sort of arrangement. Regards, Chris ============================================================================ End of Volume