Subject: SMML07/04/98VOL142 shipmodels@wr.com.au ============================================================================ MODELLERS INDEX 1: Helicopter Control Station 2: Fine Scale Models 3: Re: Removing dried paint 4: ZAP on wounds 5: Slicing thy fingers off...and other superglue funnies. 6: 1/700 Pocket Battleships 7: Enamel removal 8: Re: Using Zap for Xacto wounds... WARNING!! NOT FOR THE SQUEAMISH!!!! 9: Graf Spee or Prinz Eugen? 10: Re: Painting barber pole stripes 11: Heller 1/400 Cruisers 12: Re: Heli-Control Details on Iowa BB's, Removing Dried Enamel & Using ZAP to Close up exacto wounds! 13: Masking Tape 14: Masking to airbrush Italian IFF stripes 15: Using Human Hair 16: Painting "Barber Pole" Stripes ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: White Ensign Models helos and NEW Delphis arrivals ============================================================================ MODELLERS ----------------------------------------------------------------------------1) From: "Ritchie_deutag, Colin" Subject: Helicopter Control Station >> I have just come to the Helicopter Control Station on my Tam1/350 Modernised Mo via NJ, and I was looking at Sumralls "Iowa Class" book, and on pg 121 is an awesome pic which shows a lot of detail not included in the kit or GMM's P/E Kit, like the spot/searchlights and window covers, anybody have any ideas on how to conjur up set of 10 lights in 1/350? << Hi Greg, Having chopped the bottom off the hull of my NJ last night, (A deeply worrying operation!),. I saw your post above and perked up, What's the details of the book you mention, at the moment the only research materials I've got on the NJ are copious rather fuzzy shots culled from various web pages. So any help re research would be useful. I'm afraid I'm still at the at the "Hell it looks like the prototype", so its fine by me stage, (been here for 20 some years now) Just a quick thought, since I'm now only a couple of hours away from officially finishing the WE Hood, I'm putting together a summary of the experience, (it the main very rewarding and enjoyable). I thought it might be nice to e-mail it out to anyone interested, what do you think? Colin Ritchie ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 From: "Morley, James (Frankfurt)" Subject: Large-Scale Bismark >> I've seen a few tantalising glimpses in various mags, of a very large scale model of the Bismarck by this firm. Other than the fact that they are a US firm, I don't know anything about them. Can anyone give me any info , or their address ? Anyone know what scale their Bismarck is, and finally can anyone give me a real scare and tell me the cost? << Certainly..... the firm is actually "Fine Art Models" (Michigan, I think). The scale is 1/192, and all is revealed at http://www.fineartmodels.com . They also do other ships of awesome quality in this scale (incl Missouri). They did display their Bismark at the Model Engineer Exhibition in London in Late 1996, and colour photos appeared in a special issue of Tamiya Model Magazine in January 1997. I rang up afterwards and they quoted me around $8000 (!!!) I have no idea what they`re asking now. James Morley ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Bob Morley Subject: Re: Removing dried paint >> I also had a major ugly brush painting experience when brassing my props too, I remember reading about wd-40 to remove semi dried enamel, but missed the fully dried solution, anybody have any suggestions? << When I messed up the painting of my Titanic deck, I used spray type oven cleaner. I used Oven Off brand, but I imagine any brand would work ok. Obviously, I didn't heat it, just used it cold. Paint came right off. I don't remember for sure, but I think I let it set overnight. Didn't affect the plastic at all. Happy painting. Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: ZAP on wounds Greg Lee asked if anybody had ever used ZAP for a wound. Yes, Greg, the original use of CA glues was for surgery. Have used it many times on my wife's ferrets after surgery and they pop open a surgical incision by playing too rough. Just hold the edges together and apply the CA along the incision. And no, you don't need accelerator! The moisture of the wound works quite well. There is a bit of stinging though. I also used it one time when I broke off the outside of a tooth and I had to make an appearance at an important meeting. Took the piece of tooth, applied CA and stuck it back onto the tooth. Held from that Friday morning until I was able to see the dentist on Monday. As good as it works it won't do anything for the throbbing. The word there is elevate. Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Slicing thy fingers off...and other superglue funnies. Greg, I will relate a short story about Superglue and lacerations...I was working on Tamiya's 1/12 Ferrari Formula One car (my other modeling vice)when I sliced the tip of my right ring finger off. I went to the emergency room, and the doctor asked me what I was doing when I sliced it. I told him I was building a model, and jokingly told him I was thinking of supergluing it back on. He told me that was what CA was originally invented for(I can neither confirm nor deny this, any doctors out there?). He went on to mention that there's a sterile medical version which is less volatile than the type we use. Anyway, I've closed up cuts with it, I sterilize the wound, then close it up and put a thin layer of CA over the top of the closed wound. A superglue band-aid, if you will. I don't recommend slicing yourself up to try this technique, and I don't recommend this technique if blood is squirting more than 6 inches from the wound. It does not work well with chainsaw accidents, reattaching severed limbs, or permenantly quieting the kids... Another funny comes to mind...this is not for the meek...I was teaching a plastic modeling course for our local 4-H chapter, we had about 15 kids ranging from 12 to 16 building everything from cars to ships. Anyway, our meetings were on Saturday afternoons, and a got a phone call early one Saturday morning from a frantic father. Seems his son (who shall remain anonymous) had "a superglue accident". Having been woken from a sound sleep, I assumed fingers, and told him to apply fingernail polish remover to the glued area and to work it slowly to avoid tearing any skin. (I made sure he hadn't glued the eyes or lips or anything crucial)He asked me stay on the line while he did this for his son. I agreed, and about 1 minute later I heard the most horrifying scream. When I finally got the father back on the phone, I asked him what had happened. He embarrassingly replied that his son had gotten up early to work on his model for the upcoming meeting. He was wearing his PJs, had superglue residue on his fingers, and scratched himself...(I apologize to any ladies reading this)needless to say, he glued his fingers to his private part...and to add insult to injury, his father put fingernail polish remover on it!!! Once I confirmed he was OK, I fell over laughing. Cruel, yes, but entertaining nonetheless. That's my two bits... Jeff Herne Warship http://warship.simplenet.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: John Philip Downing Subject: 1/700 Pocket Battleships I have noticed there are at least three models of the German pocket battleships available, by Fujimi, Italieri, and Matchbox. Has anyone looked at these and know which one is the best. I want to build all three of the sister ships. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: KDur597268 Subject: Enamel removal >> I also had a major ugly brush painting experience when brassing my props too, I remember reading about wd-40 to remove semi dried enamel, but missed the fully dried solution, anybody have any suggestions? << This is old news I'm sure to most, but the most common method (for me) for removing paint is Easy-Off oven cleaner. If it's really hard dried you may have to soak it over night. Then it comes right off with an old toothbrush. I get the spray can as it's easier to keep off your hands that way. And believe me, you want to keep it off your hands! Just don't inhale the fumes. There are also a couple of paint removers put out by hobby suppliers - PollyScale "Lift-Off" and another the name of which escapes me, but it's put out by a model RR firm I think. I'll get the name and post it later. "Lift- Off" is a brush-on remover (no soak) and I've always found it to be kind of a pain-in-the- neck, slimy and not terribly effective. Good for small areas, though. The Other Unnamed one is a total emersion liquid and works very well, although i've always gone over the work with a toothbrush and paint thinner as a last step with this stuff. Needless to say, wash the part really well after these noxious baths before repainting. HTH Ken ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Dave Carter Subject: Re: Using Zap for Xacto wounds... WARNING!! NOT FOR THE SQUEAMISH!!!! Hi Greg, Having worked extensive in Casualty (A+E or Emergency Room to the U.S. subscribers), CA glue is a standard item in use, used in particular for kid's injuries where LA and suture can be rather traumatic, and butterflies alone are not appropriate. It is always sterile though... not sure about the pathogen breeding potential of a bottle handled on a regular basis!! However, I am happy to report that there are many modellers that I know already using this material for an "instant" seal... including our very own Peter Hall, who sprayed MY copy of Man o War Repulse n Renown this weekend, in some order, after embedding a scalpel most the way through his finger, leaving A 1/2 inch long point of entry.. he had probaly hit a small arteriole!! I just elevated the hand, applied firm pressure with a clean cloth, and, whilst still elevated, applied a tiny drop of CA glue to the wound. I left him for around 15 minutes in this position, applying constant pressure, and it all closed up quite nicely.... no further sign of bleeding, and hardly a mark visible. Caroline Carter WEM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: DKrakow105 Subject: Graf Spee or Prinz Eugen? Can anyone recommend a really top-notch set of plans for the Kreigsmarine ships Graf Spee or Prinz Eugen? Regards from Germany Dave ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: JGordon262 Subject: Re: Painting barber pole stripes Larry, By coincidence, I completed a 1:1200 BB Roma model just last week. Here's my easy way to paint the stripes: Paint the forecastle white then cut strips of masking tape to cover the areas you want to leave white. Lay the tape on the deck loosely covering any deck fittings, kind of like a tent awning if viewed from the side. Load your airbrush with red, make sure the mix is not thin, but sprayable, then LIGHTLY spray the forecastle at a 90' ANGLE, that is, vertical to the deck. If you spray off this angle then paint will go under the tape. The key here is to spray lightly, if you go heavy the paint will run beneath the tape. Let the red tack up, then lightly spray another mist coat, and so forth, maybe four coats in all. When dry, pull the tape off and check for overspray, which there will be some. Drybrush white over any red overspray, paint the deck fittings grey, (may be a spurious touch, but the contrast looks good) then, at some point, give the whole area a wash of dark brownish black color to blend everything in together. And you may want to mist spray some hull color over the red and white if you find it is too bright overall. This method worked very well for me and made for a very attractive model. Good luck! JG ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Malcolm Subject: Heller 1/400 Cruisers The Prinz Eugen was re released in Uk about 3 weeks ago. We've got it in stock at 20 pounds plus shipping KingKit ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Greg Lee (Listmaster - SMML) Subject: Re: Heli-Control Details on Iowa BB's, Removing Dried Enamel & Using ZAP to Close up exacto wounds! Hey, Just a foot-note to my post last night, easy-off crashed and burned, so I am looking for something a little stronger. Greg (Listmaster - SMML) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Alberto Rada Subject: Masking Tape I read some time ago that there are two types of masking tape, the one that brings the paint with it when you peel it off and the one that comes off just when you are applying the paint. Well, today I have discovered a third group, this one does not brings the paint with it and does not comes off, wonderful isn't it. Every one that brush paints or airbrushes models knows what a great discovery this is, that's why I rushed with the good news, It's Tamiya masking tape, comes in two sizes and Hobbyweb sells it . Disclaimer: I don't have any commercial interests in Tamiya (UNFORTUNATELLY) etc. etc. SALUDOS Alberto ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Michael Kear Subject: Masking to airbrush Italian IFF stripes >> The question I'm struggling with is how to paint the red and white barber pole scheme on the fore deck. The molded deck details will make masking very difficult. I've considered sanding/grinding away the deck and saving the details to replace on a sheet styrene deck that has been painted, but that seems like a ton of work. Does anyone have any words of wisdom on this? Thanks in advance for any input. << I don't know the model, so I don't know how big these details are, but I have read several times in Fine Scale Modeler magazine about using decal sheet for these kinds of tasks. First spray a coat of gloss varnish over the area to make sure you don't have any silvering under the decal. You cut out the shape you need - lines, circles etc putting the decal sheet on a piece of glass and cutting it with a new X-acto blade. If you use plenty of setting solution the decal will snuggle right in to all the nooks and crannies. First you lay the lighter colour down in a single patch, then when that's dried for a couple of days - make sure you leave it the couple of days to ensure its COMPLETELY dry - then you put little pieces of the other colour on. Then spray some matt varnish on top to seal it. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Michael Kear Subject: Using Human Hair >> As for human hair, I found it so thin that it was hard to see and harder to work with. << Yet another GOOD reason to go to 1/72 scale .. you can use string, sewing thread, fishing line, even use stainless steel fishing trace for the wire cables. And you don't need to use a magnifying glass for EVERYTHING - only MOST things Fair winds and following seas, Mike Kear, Webmaster, Task Force 72 Australia http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/taskforce72.html AFP Models - Warship fittings, semi-kits, hulls, accessories. http://www.afp.zip.com.au/models.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: Painting "Barber Pole" Stripes Folks: Here's an idea I've never tried for painting "barber pole" or "candy cane" stripes over deck details. If any of you try it out, or have tried it, please share your results. Why not take large chunks or strips of childrens Play-Doh or Silly Putty (neither should leave an oily residue), cut a crisp, straight edge on both sides, and gently press onto the forecastle (or whatever other area you are painting) after the base coat of paint has been applied and allowed to dry -- being careful not to press too hard on the doh or putty, which will deform your straight edge -- until the doh or putty rests flat on the deck (deck details should poke into the doh or putty). Then spray or airbrush your second color, and peel off the doh or putty. Voila! Neat "barber pole" or "candy cane" stripes. Is this a workable idea, or am I thinking too hard again? (I've got to stop doing that....) Yours truly, Mike Eisenstadt ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dave Carter Subject: White Ensign Models helos and NEW Delphis arrivals Hi there, The following Delphis 1/700 Scale resin kits (no etch though) arrived today: Torpedo Boat Castore (Spica class)�18.68 Submarines "Scire"and "Tembien" with Chariot.�21.95 San Giorgio cruiser.�35.70 Heavy Cruiser Trento.�35.70 Diorama set SanGiorgio. (resin seascape with boom defence, as per Tobruk 1940/41, with extra boats etc.)�18.68 R.N.Eugenio di Savoia WW2 cruiser.�37.40 **NEW!!** R.N. Dante Alighieri 1915 Brilliant 4 Funnelled Dreadnought battleship WATERLINE.�42.51 or WITH (a lot of!) LOWER HULL.�56.13 R.CT. Maestrale WW2 destroyer **NEW!**.�23.78 Shipping charged at cost (around �1.50 to �2.50 depending on destination). WEM AS 7115 De Havilland Sea Vixen (x3) at �2.95 just arrived More Airstrike 700 helos are ready.. at �4.22 per bag, post free.. minimum order �9.00 WEM AS7042 Westland Whirlwind/S55(5) WITH ETCHED BRASS WEM AS7044 Bell 47/Sioux (5) WITH ETCHED BRASS WEM AS7029 Huey(5) WITH ETCHED BRASS Thanks for your time, Caroline and Dave Carter White Ensign Models,Gardeners Cottage,Cowarne Court,Lower Eggleton, Ledbury, Herefordshire, HR8 2UF,U.K. Tel: 01432 820403 Fax: 01432 820830 ============================================================================End of Volume