Subject: SMML08/04/98VOL143 shipmodels@wr.com.au ============================================================================ MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re:removing dried paint 2: 1/700 Panzerschiffe 3: Modern New Jersey-class BBs 4: A BIG model!? 5: Masking with Play-Doh or Silly Putty 6: Removing dried enamels 7: Re: tauro models 8: Railing hints needed 9: DE's 10: Barber pole paint 11: USS Enterprise CV 6 12: Kit listing offer - again 13: Re: Paint Removal 14: New Jersey and Arizona15: HELLER Kits 16:Re: Interested people in Colin Ritchie's WEM's HMS HOOD building experience. 17: Fujimi, Italieri, and Matchbox ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: KingKit and a WEB PAGE? ============================================================================ MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: robin Subject: Re:removing dried paint Hi people, When I want to remove paint off a model, I use brake fluid, its a wonderful paint sripper, I used it on some of my model cars (yes, I do some american cars, but ships are my main models) It didn't semm to eat any plastic, I left them in a old tub with brake fluid overnight, & on really hard cracks & things, I left them for an extra day, then I cleaned the model with a old tooth brush, then washed it in water & dishwashing liquid... Its good even with fingerprints too... hope this helps.. Cheers & 73's, ordrazz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Paolo Pizzi Subject: 1/700 Panzerschiffe >> I have noticed there are at least three models of the German pocket battleships available, by Fujimi, Italieri, and Matchbox. Has anyone looked at these and know which one is the best. I want to build all three of the sister ships. << And don't know the Matchbox kits but it wouldn't surprise me if either they were junk or Italeri reboxes. Anyway, it's a no brainer, the Italeri kits win hands down. The only thing that may bother you is that they're 1/720 and thus some 4 mm. shorter than the Fujimi counterparts, which are true 1/700 (kind of...) Paolo Pizzi http://navismagazine.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: Modern New Jersey-class BBs OK, having accepted that there are no 1:700 modernized New Jersey class BBs, what's the next best thing? Are the Arii 1:600 kits of the modernized ships? Accuracy? Les ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: A BIG model!? The latest issue of Fine Scale Modeler has a classified ad (p.76)for a "U.S.S. Iowa 1/8 scale." Price is $2500 or BO. Hmmm. Guess I could always buy an Olympic-sized pool to float it in. Hell, at 1/8, maybe I could *live* in it! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Sue & Ben Subject: Masking with Play-Doh or Silly Putty Michael Eisenstadt wrote, >> Here's an idea I've never tried for painting "barber pole" or "candy cane" stripes over deck details. [ . . . . ] Why not take large chunks or strips of childrens Play-Doh or Silly Putty [ . . . . << I don't know about these two but I've succesfully used Blue-Tack for a variety of masking jobs. It's a product that is used to stick notes up just about anywhere. It came out before 'Post-it Notes' and has somehow survived. It's a little stiffer than either of the two products Mike mentionned and is a bit sticky (as the name and intend use imply). I've had very good results with the stuff. However I wouldn't leave it, or Play-Doh and Silly Putty, on the model too long. You just never know. >> Is this a workable idea, or am I thinking too hard again? (I've got to stop doing that....) << Nah. Rest easy, you're not _completely_ out of left field... :-) Cheers Ben ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Sue & Ben Subject: Removing dried enamels Greg wrote, >> Just a foot-note to my post last night, easy-off crashed and burned, so I am looking for something a little stronger. << ?Que? Impossible! The only thing a 'little stornger' than sodium hydroxide I can think of is a surplus WW2 flame thrower! But seriously. A few years ago I completely removed 25 years old multiple coats of heavily hand brushed Humbrol enamels (I was a wee lad then and didn't think discerning and modeler could fit in the same phrase) from an out of production model I absolutely wanted to save. I'll admit metalics are a little harder to lift sometimes (because of the pigment?), but still. Since I assume your props are still loose all I can suggest is fill a little glass container with the stuff and let 'em soak longer. As a last resort I've heard of, but never tried, using brake fluid. I also hear it's quite messy. As a footnote I should mention to people working with acrylics (especially Tamiya's) that more often than not simply using 'Windex' or other window cleaners with ammonia will dissolve the paint right off. HTH Ben ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: MJBCMB Subject: Re: tauro models I built the FIUME and spent a good 60 hours doing so. The directions and complete lack of as-built drawings and photos made the challenge a huge one. It looks great though. I have the POLA, but not yet up to that challenge yet. Tauro is the only company I know of that makes Ital warships. Just the 4 of the ZARA class. My Great uncle was an admiral in "that" navy back then so it was of interest to me to build it. There is an interesting site for the "unofficial Italian Navy" web site, that covers the history of 3 of the 4 ZARA class cruisers. Marc Biagini ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Björn Bäcklund" Subject: Railing hints needed Hello. For the first time I´ve tried some photoetching, but I can´t get the railings to "sit nicely". I am rebuilding the Haegawa 1/700 scale Yorktown into CV12 Hornet, and bought Eduard´s Essex-set. I find the brassrailings to soft to handle and it is almost impossible to glue the stuff in place because there is such a small surface for the glue on the railings. I´ve read somewere that that there are railings in stainless steel but I don´t know who manufactures them. Perhaps it is enough to get railings with a solid bottomrail for bigger jointlines. Can someone advise me what to do? the rest of the parts worked just fine it´s just the railings that beaten me Regards Björn Bäcklund ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "graham walker" Subject: DE's Does anyone know where I can find kits of the following, GMT class: USS Berry (BDE3) diesel-electric.Captain Class first group. Tacoma class USS Hallowell PF72) Patrol Frigate. US Coast Guard Cutter Shoshone. I do hope someone can help, thanks Graham ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "David P. Judy III" Subject: Barber pole paint Larry, Another way to paint these stripes is to paint the white first(airbrush), then mask off the deck stripes you want white. Then with a very dry brush! run down the edges of your mask( this may take a couple of passes with a few seconds in between) untill the edges are filled. Then you can fill in the middle. All this is using acrylics to eliminate brush strokes. Then you can pick out the furnishings with a fine brush! Works for me! Dave Judy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Megan Mansfield" Subject: USS Enterprise CV 6 Hi, I have just joined, and have a few questions. I am planning to do a diorama with the USS Enterprise CVN 65 (Scale 1/350), Aircraft Carrier. I know Tamiya makes it, but does anyone else? Also is there a model of the USS Enterprise CV 6. The ship before the nuclear Enterprise which is used today. Any information would be gladly welcomed. Kind regards Megan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Gene Larson Subject: Kit listing offer - again I have been trying to find the list of available warship model kits, plastic and resin, that a few months ago was available on the web. It was suggested that it was at "Navis" under "Rajenda's List". I believe this is correct, however, browsing through the site, most of which is restricted to paid subscribers only, I cannot find any reference to a comprehensive listing. I have asked web owner, Paolo, for assistance, but have not had a reply. Since there is not a readily available source of information, I renew my offer of a few months ago to place such a list on the NRG web site, to be available to anyone that is looking for a model kit. However, I need help. If someone knowledgeable in this arena would put the comprehensive list together for me, and then afterward keep me posted with updates as new products come out, I will do the web formatting and load it into our site. What I need is probably the following for the list: Categories by types such as BB, CV, CA, CL, DD, DE, PT etc. Name of vessel, hull number, and class. Plastic or resin. Scale (including 1/48 and up, the floatie boats, as someone has called them.) Manufacturer. Anything else? (This is world wide - including the good White Ensign, and European models.) I look forward to your response. Gene Larson, Alexandria, Virginia mailto:Genenrg@Naut-Res-Guild.org Nautical Research Guild, Inc. http://www.Naut-Res-Guild.org "A non-profit, tax exempt, educational organization with international membership, dedicated to maritime research and accurate ship model building." ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Paint Removal One of the model railroad paint manufacturers--Polly S?--makes a clear liquid that you can immerse models or part in and that will remove most paints; I use a quart jar or larger container. Brake fluid is also another good paint removal medium, but I recommend testing it on a small area to make sure it won't eat your particular plastic or resin. John Snyder ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "T. J. KOENIGSFELD" Subject: New Jersey and Arizona Hello, I am interested in the New Jersey and was wondering how many different models there are out there for this ship. Also, personal opinions would be greatly appreciated on which model you think is the best, dealing with details ect. If anyone has any info like this one for the USS Arizona, it would be greatly appreciated as well. Thank you for all your help. T. J. P.s. Thanks Greg for setting this list up. Its help me and other modellers out a lot. You should get some of Noble Peace Prize or something! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: PulligS Subject: HELLER Kits Does anyone remember a heller kit of a french oiler. I remember building one in the 70's[?]. At least thats what I remember. If I am remembering wrong was there any other oiler kit other than the Revell. Thanks ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Michelle Roth" Subject: Re: Interested people in Colin Ritchie's WEM's HMS HOOD building experience. >> Just a quick thought , since I'm now only a couple of hours away from officially finishing the WE Hood, I'm putting together a summary of the experience., (it the main very rewarding and enjoyable). I thought it might be nice to e-mail it out to anyone interested, what do you think? << Colin: I would certanly be interested in hearing from you concerning your experience building the HOOD. The more input I get concerning other modeler's experiences with their projects, the better I like it. Communication and the sharing of information is the best way we can all learn and grow in this or any hobby. Tell us the techniques you used and also the "glitches" and areas that caused you problems and also tell how you solved them. If you gave 10 different modelers each an HMS HOOD, you would get 10 different ways to complete the model. Some, of course would be better than others, but we can all learn.... if not from the positive construction experiences, we can also learn from others mistakes... therefore not doing the same ourselves, or maybe improving on others methods. Eric Roth ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Michelle Roth" Subject: Fujimi, Italieri, and Matchbox >> I have noticed there are at least three models of the German pocket battleships available, by Fujimi, Italieri, and Matchbox. Has anyone looked at these and know which one is the best. I want to build all three of the sister ships. << Hello John, I have built the Fujimi KM Admiral Sheer and the Italieri KM Deutschland and although I do not take out my 1/700 scale ruler and measure every detail, I found them both to be very accurate and the parts fitted well. The Italieri Deutchland was unique in that it has the older style bridge which differed from the Graf Spee and Sheer, I think? Anyone can correct me on this, but I believe the bridge on the Deutchland was rebuilt to look like that on the Sheer and Graf Spee when Hitler Changed the name of the Deutchland to the Lutzow to avoid the potential embarrassment of sinking a Kreigsmarine ship with the name of the "FATHERLAND" If I was going to build all of these Pocket Battleships, I would consider getting all of them from Italieri or Fujimi. Italieri, I believe, makes ALL versions, that is, the Graf Spee, the Admiral Sheer, the Deutchland AND the Lutzow (which is the Deutchland after her refit). Anyone out there verify this? ERIC ROTH ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Michelle Roth" Subject: KingKit and a WEB PAGE? >> The Prinz Eugen was re released in Uk about 3 weeks ago. Weve got it in stock at 20 pounds plus shipping KingKit << Hello KingKit, Do you folks have a WEB PAGE? Thanks, ERIC ROTH ============================================================================ End of Volume