Subject: SMML12/04/98VOL147 shipmodels@wr.com.au ============================================================================ MODELLERS INDEX 1: Wish List. 2: Itsy bitsy scale rivets 3: Seydlitz Plans 4: Tamiya HMS Hood & O class DD & WWI Aero 5: Re: Asiatic Fleet DDs 6: Revell Arizona 7: 1/700 wish list 8: 1/700 Ship Poll ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Herron, Chris H" Subject: Wish List. Hi there, Here are a few suggestions that I'd like to put forward for the "Wish-List Category":- HMS Abercrombie HMS Roberts (Monitors) Argentine General Belgrano (ex-USS Phoenix - Brooklyn class) Does anyone know of a good set of plans for the Abercrombie/Roberts? Keep up the good flow of info! Chris Herron. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: DKrakow105 Subject: Itsy bitsy scale rivets Hi Reproducing rivets in 1:600, and smaller scales, is a problem, due to their very small size and due to the importance of positioning them in precise and equidistant lines. Precision is absolutely essential. I have tried several ways to simulate itsy-bitsy rivets. You may try to use a "pounce wheel" which is a little wheel with spikes on it. As the wheel is rolled across a surface, it leaves equidistant indentations. In a scale this small, the indentations may fool the eye into seeing raised rivets. You can get a pounce wheel at a well-stocked art store. If you can"t find a wheels which gives the right spacing between rivets, you can substitute an old clock gear with the right number of teeth. Check flea markets for busted clocks. You may have to file the teeth round for a correct rivet- shaped impression. You can try to attach rivets manually, the way the tank model guys do. In 1:700 this would work only for the largest of rivets. You can make a pile of rivets by: (a) cutting a piece of streched sprue or nylon fishing line salami-style, (b) shaving the rivets off an old kit (Tamiya's 1:35 Grant and Lee tanks are a famous source of rivets) (c) using a micro punch and die set, such as that made by Historex, to cut disks from sheet styrene. Mark the position of the rivets on the model with a pencil first. To glue the little disks on, I recommend white glue since you will need drying time to prod them into line. If picking the rivets up with tweezers is a problem, try using the moistened tip of a 000 paintbrush. If any while glue gets on the brush, wash it off before it dries. For really fine rivets, you can try to use dry transfers. Look for a set of dry transfer letters at an office supply or art store which has a row of periods, or dots of any type, the size and spacing you need. Rub the "rivets" on where you need them. Then paint the model with an airbrush, as light a coat as possible. If the dry transfer material is thick enough, the transfers under their coat of paint will appear as scale rivets. Note, this doesn't work well with all brands of dry transfers, some are too thin, so check closely before buying. Y ou can try a stencil. Use a fine drill or a punch to make a series of equidistant holes in a narrow strip of brass shim or sheet plastic. To apply "rivets", tape the stencil to the model surface and spray a thick paint through the holes. Floquil works well for this, as it goes on heavy but doesn't clog the airbrush. After removing the stencil, the heavy paint will appear as raised detail on the model surface. Takes a bit of practice, but it works. Good luck with your Iron Duke. I built the Airfix kit in highschool and have fond memories of it. Dave ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Stuart R. Haller" Subject: Seydlitz Plans I recently acquired a set of deck and arrangement plans in 1:200 scale of SMS Seydlitz. There are 12 drawings beginning with an 8"x 11" photocopy of the 1:50 scale body plan of the ship from Blohm & Voss shipyards. The following 11 deck and arrangement plans are all in German text and in the corner is the draftsman's name "F. Jorissen 1991", so these are actually redrawn from originals. I have noted that in Campbell's "Jutland: An Analysis of the Fighting" the skecthes of shell damage from the crew of SMS Seydlitz seem to be taken from these deck plan drawings. I was wondering if anyone could provide some information on these plans, their origins, or where I could get the actual Blohm & Voss plans for this ship. I have the Taubman plans for this vessel- but there are some notable differences between the two sets of plans. For instance the body plan for the Taubman plans have some glaring mistakes when compared to the photocopy of the 1:50 scale Blohm & Voss. Thanks, Stuart R. Haller ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins Subject: Tamiya HMS Hood & O class DD & WWI Aero Hi Guys & Gals; I'm about to start building either the Tamiya 1/700 HMS Hood or the Tamiya(ex Skywave) O class DD for APMA's mid year competition as soon as I get the etched brass from WEM sometime in the next week. Does anyone have any hints about the above kits eg: construction ideas etc. Also any idea on colours (I unfortunatly have'nt got the foggiest idea as yet, as to what year I'll be doing them in as yet.) Any help would be much appreciated. Now for a thought provoking question :-). What is the connection between WWI aero modellers & ship modellers. I have seen ship kit reviews done by Harry Woodman, Ray Rimmel in the past & my wife (who models WWI aero kits) noticed Alberto Rada contributing to SMML & then informed me he also contributes to Windsock International. Then the other day a modeller friend of mine who does WWI aero( almost exclusively) started asking me for info on ship kits. So what is the connection? All the best: Shane Jenkins Mailto:sljenkins@tac.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Dan Goodpasture" Subject: Re: Asiatic Fleet DDs Art, et al: I found a photo of USS Stewart, a four-piper from DesRon 29, Asiatic Fleet. It was taken in February or March 1942 in the drydock at Soerbaja, after she rolled off the keelblocks. It's a pretty poor picture, but it's a good view of the starboard bow, and shows conclusively that she was not wearing a hull number forward and that the #1 4" gun has a shield. Of course, other ships are anyone's guess. If you'd like to see it yourself: facing page 102, _US Destroyer Operations in WWII_, Roscoe. Dan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Björn Bäcklund" Subject: Revell Arizona I found an 1/720 scale USS Arizona in the latest catalouge (1998-99) from Revell Gemany. I want to thank everybody who responded to my distresscall on the railing matters, and to our listmaster for keeping this friendly information source alive. Best regards Björn Bäcklund ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: aubrey Subject: 1/700 wish list I'd like to see the following kits in 1/700 Kirov Cruiser (modern) Moskva Class Carrier Kara Class Cruiser Kynda Class Cruiser German Commerce Raider Atlantis Forrestal Class Carrier (a correct one) USS Long Beach CGN US Bainbridge CGN Iwo Jima Class LPH RMS Titannic ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Kenneth Hagerup Subject: 1/700 Ship Poll My personal 1/700 wish list for injection molded kits USS Arizona USS California US Pre-war Cruisers US Pre-war Destroyers US 4-Piper Destroyers USS Wasp USS Ranger USS Langley Prinz Eugen, Blucher US CVEs (USS Block Island, Commencement Bay Class) Kenneth Hagerup ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Dave Carter Subject: Iron Duke Hi Ian, >> like to add a suggestion of rivet/bolt detail to the turrets. These are quite prominent on drawings of the ship. Does anyone have any << It is not practical to do this in 1/600 scale, as between 250-300 rivets per turret need to be added... Brian Fawcett achieved this with painstaking difficulty in 1/350 Scale on the Hood turrets (check out the detail on Ian Ruscoe's superb Hood build on NAVIS.. on Model Showcase... if you subscribe). Peter Hall actually achieved a reasonable effect on another model he built by drilling rows of tiny pinholes and gently forcing putty through from the hollow turret's underside, until a row of "rivets" is visible.. still not in scale, but quite an acceptable effect if done with care. >> Also, does anyone have any ideas on the colours for ships boats in HM ships during the inter war years? Most photographs seem to show pinnaces and launches as quite dark in colour. Does anyone knoe whether this was a dark blue? << The colour of ship's boats was generally determined by the Captain... from grey to blue to red, depending on personal preference! Best Regards Caroline Carter White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/avenue/xdt22 mailto:xdt22@dial.pipex.com ============================================================================ End of Volume