Subject: SMML17/4/98VOL152 shipmodels@wr.com.au ============================================================================ MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: French Battleship Richelieu and Jean Bart 2: Re: Wish List (scale 1:350) 3: 1:700 wish list 4: Paper Models 5: Tamiya 1/350 KGV building and colours 6: Re: Tamiya 1/350 KGV building and colours 7: Re: O Class DD 8: RE: I wish, I wish 9: Re: Hasegawa ESSEX 10: LSM 11: Re: Warships of 1898 - Wish List 12: Smallscale rigging: ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: DOC MODELL QUERY 2: Tom's Modelworks Online Catalog ============================================================================ MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Reidar.Berg@notes.dynoind.com Subject: Re: French Battleship Richelieu and Jean Bart >>I am looking for a model of the Frenchbattleship Richelieu or Jean Bart, also I am looking for the Italian battleship Italia, Vittorio Veneto or the Impero. Does anyone know where I can models of these 2 battleships in 350th scale. << Hi Gene Why don't you buy Heller's 1:400 Richelieu and Jean bart? These kits are very good and accurate, some of the best injection moulded ship kits ever made. Reidar Berg, Narvik, Norway ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Reidar.Berg@notes.dynoind.com Subject: Re: Wish List (scale 1:350) Hi, Please someone consider giving us the following ship kits in scale 1:350 - Vittorio Veneto (the most handsome battleship ever made) - The Japanese "Fuso class" battleships (I love that extreme superstructure) Reidar Berg, Narvik, Norway ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: 1:700 wish list Here's what I'd like in *my* future fleet: USS Saipan/Wright CVL USS Guadalcanal LPH USS Galveston CLG USS Boston/Canberra CAG USS Coontz-class DDG I think there may be a resin LPH on the market, but pricey? Revell-Monogram apparently will not not reissue the Boston/Canberra kit as an SSP. Les "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups." ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Dariusz Lipinski Subject: Paper Models Hi All, A few words about paper ship models. Besides 1:700 scale in plastic/resin I also play with card models in larger scales, mostly in 1:250. I think it became something of standard for ship models in this medium. Best ones come from Wilhelmshaven, HMV and CFM all three from Germany, also JSC from Poland. If anyone is looking for more info on this subject I recommend below listed sites. http://www.scheuer-struever.de/ http://ebs.ebs-net.com/papermod/index.htm http://www.bogo.co.uk/marcle/ http://www.helo.de/pleiner/ In the last address I recommend to click on The CFM report. It is in the Adobe format and it comes with a lot of black&white pictures. Have fun. Darek ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Lee Francis Wilhelmsen Subject: Tamiya 1/350 KGV building and colours Hi! I recently got the Tamiya 1/350 HMS King George V for my Birthday. Whoa! This ship is big, hey? Up to this moment in time I've only been making destroyers and light cruisers so the actual size of a 1/350 battleship blew me away. I knew she would be big, but seeing her was something else. Anyway I have a few questions. 1) Tamiya says the hull colour should be Hull Red, but then say that this colour is obtained by mixing Flat Red (XF-7):2 with Flat Brown (XF-10):1. How different will this mixed colour be compared with the ready to use Hull Red (XF-9) from the jar? (Buying one is also cheaper than buying two.) 2) I haven't yet ordered PE for the modell, but will someday soon. Can I start working on the hull now or should I wait? (i.e. Tamiya 1/350 USS Fletcher) 3) When I was making 1/700 models I liked to first paint the parts and then assemble them. Since I've been working a bit in 1/350 scale I'm thinking of trying it the other way around. I was therefore thinking of fitting the decks, rudder and propeller shafts to the hull before painting. Then painting the hull and stuff on deck and then masking this (!) and painting the deck. How does this sound? Hope someone can help me out. I'd prefer not to make a mess of this brilliant modell. Best regards Lee Francis Wilhelmsen ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From : Greg Lee (Listmaster - SMML) Subject - Tamiya 1/350 KGV building and colours Hi Lee, I may be of some assistance here, as I seem to be building Tamiya almost exclusively lately, as far as size goes, you should see Tamiya's Yamato or Iowa Class, you will find your KGV hull will fit neately inside these! And The Big E, - Oi! IMHO: 1, I have found straight out Hull Red is to Brown for use (Except if you are building a Japanese Ship like Yamato or Musashi, Japanese colours seem darker to me), I also found that 2:1 is still to brown, I use about 2 or 3 parts Flat red, with one part Hull Red, I dont use brown, I make up a very red batch, test it, and add some hull red and test again until I am happy with the mix. 2, You are usually o.k. to start on the Hull b4 your P/E arrives, and usually even o.k. to start on teaking your decks (Good Luck, you hava a big job ahead there), If your getting P/E from GMM, its always best to drop Loren a note just to make sure everything is o.k. (He is extremely helpful this way, and will probably tell you a list of about a dozen things you can go on with)) 3, IKES - NO!, you can fit your rudders to the hull, and then paint, cos they are the same colour, but your props and shafts will probly be brass, and there's to much going on with your decks without getting a hull red undercoat in there as well, your brass/teaks may not give you the desired result if you apply them over hull red! You will find cleaner lines of colour separation if you paint individually, but stuff thats all the same colour, it gives better results to assemble then paint. As far as your decks go, (Definately don't fit them to your hull before painting, amongst other reasons, its generally bulky and to hard to handle, remember, you've got a LOT to do there, you wanna be comfy!) My personnal advise is to do your grey first, I have had a lot of trouble getting wood deck colours to cover battleship grey pleasingly. Its also much easier to mask the actual Barbette rather than mask the deck around the barbette. In Most cases the rules of painting order / colour heirachy, is generally helpful, but I find it is better to test your actual paints against each other, as some tend to cover better than others, regardless of colour or brand. I have the PoW to start on very soon, so Please keep me informed with your progress, and of anything I should pay particular attention to. Hope This Helps! Greg (Listmaster - SMML) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Chris Drage Subject: Re: O Class DD Hi Nat, >> I greatly appreciate Michael Eisenstadt's comment about the article I wrote many years ago. It may interest the readers of this list to know that I have revised and updated the article for an upcomming issue of Navis. A significant amount of additional information has been added as well as> correcting what I now know to be inaccuracies. << Well Done! Excellent! A very large pat on the back from all we RN modellers! Regards, Chris E mua ata haere, e muri tata kino.... (Te reo Maori) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "DOUGLAS MARTIN" Subject: RE: I wish, I wish I wish I would stay off this blasted computer, long enough to build some more ships! I wish I had more space, less dust to cope with! Somehow, I feel both are lost battles, more suggestions instead: 1/700 WW2 French cruisers, DDs, German DDs (non Narviks) 1/700 Brooklyn's, Astoria, Houston classes etc etc I think between all of us we have covered every possibility?? Fraid I'm going to have to restrict myself to books, and a few more kits for the loft. Douglas (Scotland) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Hasegawa ESSEX Larry Gertner did a series of pieces in the IPMS Journal in the '80s on accurizing this kit. We reprinted them in the short-lived IPMS warship SIG newsletter. I have copies.... John Snyder ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: DSisson384 Subject: LSM Hi all, still looking for a helping hand with ANY kit that is suitable for conversion to LSM, in approx 15" finished length....Any and all help appreciated, Ray ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: RCClem Subject: Re: Warships of 1898 - Wish List Javier, your English is just fine. I didn't list the American and Spanish warships from the Battle of Santiago because that list was long and that battle will have its own anniversary coming up. If you have a complete list, please post it for us. The older Spanish armored warships would have something for both types of modellers. They had steel hulls AND full rigging. Roger Clemens Hinsdale, Ill. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: dbauer@access1.net (dbauer) Subject: Smallscale rigging I'm in the process of detailing the Renwal 1:500 USS SEMINOLE, and I need some input on how to rig the cargo booms. Does anyone have any experience with making ultra-small blocks and tackle, such as would be needed for the vang guys, topping lifts, and lifting tackle? What product works best for simulating the wire rope? ============================================================================ TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dave Carter Subject: DOC MODELL QUERY In Response to your query John, Doc Modell kits are basically out of production... Thomas Weiss has started another business instead called "WSW".. Wings, Ships and Wheels... he is now doing tanks and all sorts. Ships have taken a back seat, although he may bring back the old subjects in the future... as Bill at Pacific Front has also stocked the DOC's kits, he may know more than I do. The WSW 1/700 Svent Istvan (sister to the Viribus Unitis)is available at 40.00 pounds on special from us at this time. We have only a few DOC kits left now... the 1/700 USS Markab with slight chipping of the bow and stern bulwarks (good packing was never this company's speciality..) at 29.74 pounds, the USS Ward and USS Borie and HMS Campbeltown at 18.68 pounds, and a 1/700 CSS Virginia at 12.72 pounds. His address, however, is as follows (enclose 3 x International Reply Coupons else you will never get a reply..) WSW-Modellbauversand, Kornbindstr.132, D-78056 US-Schwenningen, Germany Cheers Caroline White Ensign Models,Gardeners Cottage,Cowarne Court,Lower Eggleton, Ledbury,Herefordshire,HR8 Check out our web site at http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/avenue/xdt22/ mailto:xdt22@dial.pipex.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "BlackLab Productions" Subject: Tom's Modelworks Online Catalog Tom's Modelworks Online catalog is now up and running. Visit: http://www.tomsmodelworks.com A complete listing of products available from Tom's include: - Resin Ship Kits in 1/350 and 1/700, WWI Aircraft Kits in 1/48 - An complete line of Photoetch Brass sets for ships and WWI Aircraft. - Conversion Kits for ships and WWI Aircraft - Detail Parts, Accessories Ordering information, shipping, and related topics can be found, including the Modelworks Gallery and Sneak Previews of new products and future releases. Be sure to stop by... Bailey Black Lab Productions ============================================================================ End of Volume