Subject: SMML24/4/98VOL159 shipmodels@wr.com.au ============================================================================ MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Resin Subs 2: Re: Model Building for Dough 3: Artesania Latina, S.A. 4: 1/350 fire hoses/glueing really small parts 5: Re: Model Building for Profit 6: Re: Sub model dream list 7: Re: Interesting sub models 8: Re: Photo-etched firehose nozzel ============================================================================ MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: drwells@hogpa.ho.att.com (David R Wells) Subject: Re: Resin Subs Tom wrote: >> I've got a whole list of really interesting submarines that are begging for a really good model (SSNR Triton, USS Seawolf SSN575 [the FIRST nuclear Seawolf], USS Albacore, SSN Skate, SSG Growler). These are all the limited run or one-off subs during the great experimental postwar era of the '50's......all have interesting lines and are from the era back before we settled on building nuclear powered cigar shapes..... << Then Jon wrote: >> Another one you might want to consider adding to that list is an accurate USS Nautilus SSN571. AFAIK, the SSP from MonoRevellogram has a lot of faults that need correcting. << That's putting it mildly!! The Revellogram kit wasn't even close. The old Aurora kit was closer, but that's not saying much. It still needs plenty of help. I've heard that there was actually a 1/200 resin Nautilus once, (commercially available) but I've never seen it. 1/200 has certain advantages for subs, as subs are usually (Tridents & Typhoons & Oscars excepted!!) much smaller than surface ships, and there's a long tradition behind the scale. (yeah, I know, I know, I make the same argument for 1/500 surface ships, and look where that's gotten me....) David R. Wells Who would like to see a 1/200 kit of the USS Skate, SSN-579 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: KDur597268 Subject: Re: Model Building for Dough Hi guys - Thought I'd throw in an angle on this. I do model work part-time to supplement my income, and know a few full-time model builders. I work for one of them occasionally. He runs a model studio here, and gets a lot of work. There's often 4 or 5 projects going at once and he hires 3 or 4 model builders to help, some in-shop and some "sub-contractors". I'm one of the latter until final assembly, when I go in and work at the shop. This man is probably the best model builder I've ever met or seen. His background is doing natural history dioramas for museums in Holland - you know, Australopithicus with every hair and freckle in place, giant models of insects with transparent bodies - absolutely exquisite work. He also does a lot of film, adverts (lots of modelwork here!) and the last few projects I've worked on have been models of projected rides - like Disney rides. We're currently building a very large and high-finish model of a ride, to be in Australia, based on the film "Titanic". Large parts of the interior and some exterior sections of the ship will modeled in 1/2" scale - the whole grand foyer, for example! I can't wait to see how he does the dome! And lifeboats, bedrooms, wireless room, davits, 1912 Renault, wicker furniture etc. So what am I contributing? At the moment, operating "cage lamps" for the corridors! Yeehaaa! I might get to do the grand piano. And who knows what else? There's a huge amount of work. And a DEADLINE!!! I'm glad I'm not solely responsible for it, but I'm sure he's getting paid top dollar. Some models are relatively approximate, but this is a true "presentation" model - as he says, it has to "blow them away". Everything has to be perfect. I get $15/hr for my work for him in-shop, and for piece work I just estimate costs and give him a bid. He hasn't bickered yet. Working in these conditions IS stressful, as Disney and the like don't brook ANY schedule deviation. I realize it's not what some of you are asking about, but the aspect of taking away from the enjoyment of modeling hasn't happened to me. I really do love miniature work, and working around a guy of this calibre, having the opportunity to learn new techniques (more than I can absorb!), is great. So, point of all this is that the "model SHOP" has something to be said for it. For getting paid to build what I normally build, I've gotten commissions through displaying at my local hobby shop and having good relations with the PEOPLE there; recommendations from fellow IPMS'ers; architects offices; and friends. Sorry to go on and on, but since there was "Titanic" involved, I thought folks might be interested. Ken Durling ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Ray S. Katzaman" Subject: Artesania Latina, S.A. I am in need of the email or web page address for Artesania Latina, if they have one. Yesterday I purchased their Virginia Pilot Boat 1805, and it was missing all of the fittings. All of the wood planking, bulkheads, spars and masts, and everything else was there including sail cloth. The big problem is that the hobby shop can't do very much since they get their stock from a distributor, therefore, I am somewhat up the proverbial creek without the necessary motion apparatus (paddle). Any help will be appreciated. Ray S. Katzaman IPMS 35112 Austin, Texas ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: 1/350 fire hoses/glueing really small parts Folks: Here is a technique I've used with success for glueing really small photetched and other components. It's maybe a bit labor intensive, but it works. To prevent the glue from oozing out from below the photoetched component (doors, hatches, firehoses), drill a very small hole with an 80 or so drill bit on the component (hull, deckhouse, bridge, whatever) where the photoetched will be placed (locate the hole more or less where the center of mass of the photoetched component will be), and apply a dab of whatever glue you are using (cyano or white) with a nub or toothpick over the mouth of the hole. Don't overdo it. Next, to hold the part and guide it into place, I take a wooden toothpick, lick the end to moisten it slightly, and touch the moistened tip to the photoetched part. The moisture on the end of the toothpick will usually cause the part to stick to the toothpick long enough to enable me to accurately emplace the photoetched part. Since most of the glue is in the hole you had drilled, or just around the rim of the hole, there shouldn't be much if any oozing from behind the photoetched component. It works for me, and hope it works for you! Best wishes, Mike Eisenstadt ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: ALROSS2 Subject: Re: Model Building for Profit It is possible to make a living building ship models, but as a general rule, you have to concentrate on custom models to do so. Building on speculation (gee, I hope it sells) is largely a waste of time and effort if you hope to make ship modeling your primary source of income. It does take a while to build up a clientele, so you really need to have another source of income initially. To make a decent living off ship models, you have to build quickly, efficiently, and well, as you can only make so many models in a given time period. This is often a difficult transition for the hobbiest, as he/she is used to working at a slower pace. Most full-time builders' (note I avoid the term "professional") building schedules are often months or years in advance. For instance, my building schedule is pretty well filled through mid-1999. Two mistakes you want to avoid are underpricing your work and lowering an initial bid. Determining the price of a model can be difficult, as there are many variables to consider (level of detail, complexity, nature of building materials, availability of plans, etc.) Consequently, there are a myriad of formulae for determining the price of a finished model, one or more of which may work for a given builder. After much research, I settled on a simple one - generally speaking, I charge by the inch (hull length). The amount per inch varies primarily with the scale and ranges from $100 to $250 per inch. This "rule of thumb" applies only to models which use conventional construction materials (basswood, brass, resin, styrene, fiberglass, etc.) and commercially-available fittings (quality stuff like BlueJacket sells), in addition to scratch-built items and custom and commercial photo-etched brass. If a client wants everything scratch-built, wants exotic woods or metals, or wants moving parts, lighting, etc., the price is accordingly higher. Al Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Reg585 Subject: Re: Sub model dream list Here's another one, how about a kit of a IJN K6D sub, without an aircraft hangar! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Ives100 Subject: Re: Interesting sub models Jon- My understanding is that Paul Fisher, who had a line of 1:200 resin submarines a while back is returning to submarines, and that his first kit will be a 1:200 SSN 571 Nautilus. I would certainly welcome a kit of the older Narwhal or Nautilus, as these are visually interesting submarines. Tom ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Dbrown303 Subject: Re: Photo-etched firehose nozzel Hello Greg, I use (ready for this?) just a wee little bit of saliva (slobber, spittle, shpeck, you get the picture) and attach the part to the plastic (painted or unpainted) by licking the back side and sticking. Then after about a minute I touch just a smidgeon (scientific measurements) of liquid glue - not superglue - to the edge of the photo etched part with a very fine brush. You'll be surprised at how strong the bond will be. Most people think that you have to use a *strong* bonding glue (such as epoxy or superglue) to attach photo etched parts - not so. When you think about it, all you need is enough bond to hold the part on the model. This takes very little *glue*. Most of my models are built with very little strength - just enough to hold all the parts and pieces together. Happy modeling, Derek ============================================================================ End of Volume