Subject: SMML2/5/98VOL167 shipmodels@wr.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Chrome 2: Re: Abdiel Class Minelayers 3: Re: PE one more time & Richelieu colors 4: Re: chrome 5: Re: PE one more time 6: resin casting 7: Rothesay article 8: Re: Chrome 9: Naval oriented hobby shops-Philadelphia/valley Forge, PA area 10: Casting 1:1200 boats. 11: Re: chrome 12: Tamiya 1:350 Aircraft Carrier CNV 65 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: CV 5 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: William Swan Subject: Chrome >> This probably applies more to car models than ships (thats what I am working on now). The plastic kits with pre-chromed parts often have sprues attached. When you cut off the sprue you leave a small unchromed area. What is the best paint or process for touching up these little blemishes? something like Floquil silver is no good - don't look like chrome. I don't see anything listed as chrome in Model Masters metalizer. << Most hobby shops carry a product that is burnished on to the part needing plating it is called Bare-Metal Foil. It has a sticky back and is used to simulate chrome/stainless trim (there is almost no chrome used on cars these days). This should solve your problem nicely. It will also allow you to do realistic trim around windows, etc. William Swan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Sanartjam Subject: Re: Abdiel Class Minelayers Hi Listmembers, First, the easy part; the contact addresses for the photographs are: National Maritime Museum Ships Plans & Historic Photographs Greenwich, London SE10 9NF England Imperial War Museum Photograph Archive Lambeth Road London SE1 6HZ England Second, the hard part; I can't post all the negative numbers for photographs of the ships of the Abdiel Class, as there are far too many. For many of the negative numbers, you can write to the IWM for "Subject List 241," which covers the Abdiel-class minelayers; be warned, however, that the list is not a complete listing of all the photographs they have of these ships. As for the NMM, I have only a few negative numbers for some shots of the Latona; for others, you'd have to write to the NMM directly. I have not yet purchased photographs from the NMM, but I have purchased some from the IWM and the service has been absolutely first class. Hope this helps.... Art Nicholson ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: LubenLarry Subject: Re: PE one more time & Richelieu colors Have seen posts on Rec.models.scale that Iron Shipwrights is going to release a Prinz Eugen in 1/350 resin Re: Richelieu colors According to Garzke and Dulins book, Allied Battleships, Naval Institute Press, the color was dull black Larry B ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIP MDLR Subject: Re: chrome >> This probably applies more to car models than ships (thats what I am working on now). The plastic kits with pre-chromed parts often have sprues attached. When you cut off the sprue you leave a small unchromed area. What is the best paint or process for touching up these little blemishes? something like Floquil silver is no good - don't look like chrome. I don't see anything listed as chrome in Model Masters metalizer. << Ben, Testors chrome silver is great for touching up small areas. However, if your looking you can tell it's been touched. I would suggest painting the whole wheel. This paint looks very convincing in that scale and is very shiny. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: montreal@usit.net Subject: Re: PE one more time >>Hi again does any one know if any modeling company has plans to do a 1/350 Prinz Eugen? << Iron Shipwrights will be releasing a 1/350 DKM Prinz Eugen in a couple of months. This will be a resin kit, with white metal and custom photoetch details. We should have a solid price in a couple of weeks. Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: montreal@usit.net Subject: resin casting >> ...is it difficult to get the resin to fill the small cavities in the mold,(for this project, the thwarts)? This is the major problem I found with the lead casting. My masters were not great but I believe I could make them better with more patience and practice. << Here's another method which may be a little simpler than what been suggested. After you've constructed the boats, build a thin keel out of plastic strip (.015"x.060" should do), and then glue it to a thicker piece of plastic strip(.060"x.080" works). Glue these down to a piece of card stock, then build a box around these parts for the rubber (about a quarter inch of seperation from the parts). Next, get some low durometer (soft) rubber and pour it slowly into the corner of the box, letting the rubber flow over the parts until they're covered. After the rubber's cured, break down the box, and you'll have a one-piece mold. Now here's why this works better with a soft rubber, and you need a large piece of plastic on the bottom. When you pour the resin into the mold, hold the slit open with your fingers and pour the resin into one side of the mold, letting the resin flow into the areas and force the air out. The softer resin is easier to do this with, and the large plastic piece give you something to hold it open with. Also, I would recommend a resin called Pour-a-Kast. This is a much thinner resin than Alumilte, and will be easier to use with either style of casting since it'll flow a lot better. It's made by a company called Synair in Chattanooga, TN, and is available from Bare Metal Foil. Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Paolo Pizzi Subject: Rothesay article >> I am pleased to see that Caroline Carter is writing an article on the Rothesay class. Where and when will it be published? Does anyone know where I can get plans of the Rothesy class and also of the Loch/Bay class? I have long thought that these ships have been neglected by modellers << It's going to be on Navismagazine.com, probably next month. Paolo Pizzi http://navismagazine.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: ModelerAl Subject: Re: Chrome >> What is the best paint or process for touching up these little blemishes? << The only thing that works really well is to strip the part completely and have it replated by someplace like Chrome-Tech USA or Chrome+ up in Canada. You might want to E-mail me directly with any further questions, as we should probably get this topic off the list quickly! ;-) HTH, Al http://www.up-link.net/~modeleral/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: MJONESES Subject: Naval oriented hobby shops-Philadelphia/valley Forge, PA area This is my first time to send mail to SMML-I hope I'm doing this right. I will be in the Philadelphia/Valley Forge, PA area in a couple of weeks for a miniature show and would like to know if there are any good naval oriented hobby shops in this area. If anyone has an interest in military miniatures, I highly recommend the Miniature Figure Collectors of America (MFCA) show. This years show will be at the Valley Forge Convention Center, May 15, 16. Thanks for your help in advance. Mansell Jones ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Casting 1:1200 boats. Whoa! Bob Santos' suggestion about casting resin boats is more complicated than need be. Bob, you don't need to cast these boats in two half moulds. You can do them in one flat mould. In bigger scales half moulds may be necessary but in 1:1200 we're talking about pieces much less than a half inch in length. Here's what I do: I glue the boat KEEL DOWN on a piece of cardboard. Build a cofferdam to hold in the latex, then pour in the latex and let it dry. When the mould is ready, and removed from the cardboard, the only thing visible is the thin keel because the latex has surrounded the curved sides of the boat. Thus all that is visible is a thin slit. However, because the mould is flexible (make it thin, about 1/4 inch max) the boat will come out despite the narrow opening. A bit like a baby coming out of...well, you get the idea. Anyway, when you are ready to pour in the resin, you drop some drops on the spot, squeeze and massage it a bit with a wood or other stirring stick to fill the cavity, and let it dry. After it drys, it is easy to remove. Trim any excess resin attached to the keel and voila, you have a ready to use boat. I like POR A KAST resin, which I think is thinner when first mixed than Alumalite and will fill little crevices better. I have produced many boats in rapid succession this way, as well as rafts, anchors and other parts. When I do a mould it's usually about 2" x 1" and has moulds of a lot of different parts on it. Thus I can cast multiple boats, rafts etc. at one time, or just one item as needs dictate. Of course, I copy stuff only for my own use. Paul Jacobs 1200/1250 Editor Warship http://warship.simplenet.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: chrome >> This probably applies more to car models than ships (thats what I am working on now). The plastic kits with pre-chromed parts often have sprues attached. When you cut off the sprue you leave a small unchromed area. What is the best paint or process for touching up these little blemishes? something like Floquil silver is no good - don't look like chrome. I don't see anything listed as chrome in Model Masters metalizer. << Bare Metal Foil. It is a very thin, adhesive backed, shiny as chrome sheet of foil. Car modelers use it extensively for the chrome trim on models. You can also use it for masking. Some aircraft modelers use it to mask off canopy frames before painting. Put it on the canopy, trim it with a sharp #11 blade around the frame, pull it off the frame part, and paint. However, if you don't want to go this route, Testors does have a Silver Chrome Trim, #2734, in the Model Master car enamels line. A third option, if you are wanting to build a real top notch model, is strip the chrome off all the parts and send them to Chrome Tech USA to have them chromed. Going this route allows you to fill sink marks, if any, and remove any mold parting lines that appear on the part. Their chrome plating is superior to any that appears in model kits. Mike Settle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Ian Johnson Subject: Tamiya 1:350 Aircraft Carrier CNV 65 I recently purchased the Tamiya 1:350 Aircraft Carrier CNV 65 Enterprise. I was curious about what kinds of detail kits are available. I'm interested in adding a deck crew and a detailed interior as well as replacing the deck vehicles, the Low Altitude Warning Radar, Vulcan cannons, Sea Sparrow Launchers,the launches, and sponsons or detailing them. I would appreciate any leads on how to get information and pictures about the Enterprise as well. Ian Johnson Washington State University, Pullman ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: BECJPARKER Subject: CV5 If you haven't heard Blue Water Navy will be releasing the CV 5 in the next couple of months (by the Nationals). She will have some new aircraft and several basic construction changes from the Enterprise and Hornet "that they already have on the market, as well as the Gambier Bay". She will also have a reduced price tag from the Enterprise and Hornet. APC will be selling them for around $500. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume