Subject: SMML6/5/98VOL171 shipmodels@wr.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Resin Castings 2: Re: Resin Dust 3: Re: USS Melvin, DD680 painted in measure 21 4: Deck Washes 5: Re: Resin Casting 6: Re: USS Melvin, DD680 painted in measure 21 7: Resin Casting 8: Re: bubble free resin casting 9: Revell 1/350 Dresden ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: HP Models in 23 lines 2: 1/350 WTB: BB Missouri for parts ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SHIP MDLR Subject: Resin Castings >> I build 1/350 scale ships and have been casting my own parts for a couple of years. I saw the questions about the casting and have one of my own. I use the Ace resin which is very similiar to the Micromark (it may be the same stuff). It is very water like but I still have trouble with air bubbles. I spend 5 minutes casting the part and thirty minutes filling holes and recreating detail that was obliterated by air bubbles. How do the resin manufacturers create such complex castings that are flawless? I am willing to invest in a small pressure pot or anything that will allow me to make some clean castings without the air bubbles but I just don't know what to get or how to use it. Any and all information will be appreciated. << Wayne, You're exactly right about the pressure pot. I am currently designing a kit to be produced. I checked out a company that will produce the parts and a vaccuum chamber is essential to good quality casting. What you'll have to do is find a resin that takes 1 to 2 hours to set. After you mix the resin, it has air bubbles in it. There's no way to get around it. These guys mix up a small (or large volume) of resin. They then put the whole pot in a vaccum chamber berfore pouring it into the molds and vaccuum out the air bubbles. After this process, they pour the molds. Another trick you might try is to use a small round btrush and gently (be sure not to stir up bubbles) paint the inside of the mold with the resin before you pour the mold. This allows you to push the resin into all the little nooks and crannies. This works pretty well for smaller, simple molds. I've had good succes doing it. Rusty White Flagship Models ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SHIP MDLR Subject: Re: Resin Dust >> I've seen several references in various places to resin dust being potentially harmful to the airways. Does anyone have any additional information on this? Are we talking a carcinogen, or what? Apart from wearing a respirator mask and frequent vacuuming of the work area, does anyone have any other recommended precautions for handling this stuff? Would appreciate clarification on this matter if anyone has anything to add to this. << Mike, Sending any carcinogen through the mail is illegal or must be clearly marked. I don't know for sure, but I seriously doubt that it's harmful. To be on the safe side wear a simple mask like what you would wear mowing your lawn. Rusty White Flagship Models ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIP MDLR Subject: Re: USS Melvin, DD680 painted in measure 21 >> I'm currently working in a Lindberg kit (1/125) of the USS Melvin, DD 680. Her color is referred as "measure 21 navy blue". Does someone know which color is this ? I'm not being able to match this color with any FS color that I know. << Seems I have an answer to everything today. Floating Drydock has a series of really good color chip cards for about $2.00 ea. Just specify the colors you want (grays, purples, blues, etc.) Rusty White Flagship Models ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Subject: Deck Washes Duane, I'm just finishing up the Tom's Modelworks 1921 Arizona...I painted the decks with Polly-Scale Deck Tan, then applied a wash of burnt umber water colors mixed 50-50 with rubbing alcohol. The burnt umber tones down the tan quite a bit. After the wash dries, I pasteled the deck with the appropriate shades of tan and light gray. If you want a weathered deck, then use more gray than tan...vice versa for a new look. I should have photos of her up this month of Warship. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. Hope this helps. Jeff Herne Warship http://warship.simplenet.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Noel Ray Subject: Re: Resin Casting Hi Wayne! I know absolutely *nothing* about resin casting and have never done it but, working in a dental hospital, our laboratory production technicians pull a partial vacuum on mixed investments to remove air bubbles/dissolved air. Noel ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Re: USS Melvin, DD680 painted in measure 21 The USS Melvin, DD680 was painted in measure 21, navy blue system. All vertical surfaces were painted in navy blue 5-N, and all horizontal surfaces were painted deck blue, 20-B. By the way, the kit does not represent the Melvin, but with A LOT of hard work it can be hacked and hewn into shape. Both Navis (http://navismagazine.com) and Warship (http://warship.simplenet.com/) have articles on cmouflage measures. Warship also has color chips while Navis has mixing instructions. Regards, Duane Fowler ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: BChaucer@ix.netcom.com Subject: Resin Casting >> I build 1/350 scale ships and have been casting my own parts for a couple of years. I saw the questions about the casting and have one of my own. I use the Ace resin which is very similiar to the Micromark (it may be the same stuff). It is very water like but I still have trouble with air bubbles. I spend 5 minutes casting the part and thirty minutes filling holes and recreating detail that was obliterated by air bubbles. How do the resin << There are 2 meathods of handling air bubbles: pull a vacuum or pressurize. Pulling a vacuum on the mold will cause the mold to outgas which should remove most of the bubbles. You must however have a very liquid, slow setting compound to give sufficient time for the included air to leave the suspension. The alternative is to hold the mold under high air pressure to compress the bubbles. This will either eliminate them or reduce them to pinpoint size. In either case, a pressure pot like a painter's pot or a large pressure cooker can be used. >> manufacturers create such complex castings that are flawless? I am willing to << Most use one or the other of the above. Also , try to perfect your mixing technique to minimize the inclusion of air into the resin. You have the same problem with varnish which is why they advise never to shake the can, but to gently stir instead. >> Apart from wearing a respirator mask and frequent vacuuming of the work area, does anyone have any other recommended precautions for handling this stuff? << Use cutting techniques whereever possible as opposed to grinding to remove excess. I use thin slitting saws and thin diamond abrasive saws to cut away most of the sprue or carrier or other excess material to minimize the need for sanding. Also wet as opposed to dry sanding will help control dust. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: SantMin Subject: Re: bubble free resin casting >> resin manufacturers create such complex castings that are flawless? I am willing to invest in a small pressure pot or anything that will allow me to make some clean castings without the air bubbles but I just don't know what to get or how to use it. Any and all information will be appreciated. << Wayne, I used the Ace stuff too. I don't know what it is but I have almost NO bubble problem with the MicroMark resin. I have a friend who does resin casting professionally (I think he is the best resin caster in the business today, you can NEVER find a bubble in any of his castings!!). This is what he does: He uses a slow setting resin to begin with (about 1/2 hour setting time). Then when he mixes a batch he puts the container in a vac chamber and removes all air bubbles. He them slowy fills his mold and then that goes into the vac chamber for another de-gas. Lastly, the mold goes into the pressure pot to squeeze any air that might be left. Sounds like a lot of trouble but his casting are OUTSTANDING!!!! Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Tom·s E Tirado Kr¸ger" Subject: Revell 1/350 Dresden Hi! I am working in the Revell Dresden 1/350 and I have some doubts about the deck colors. Anybody can help? Thanks a lot Tomas E. Tirado IPMS -Uruguay ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dave Carter Subject: HP Models in 23 lines Well, cor blimey, luvva ducks, we FINALLY received the first HP shipment.. Thanks to everyone out there for waiting so patiently, I think you will agree it's been worth it... me, I'm just a little fraught, as I thought we'd seen the last of £1500.00...However, part of the prob was 24 hour shipping took 9 days... We will despatch everyone's kits in the next few days, as much of this shipment has been pre-ordered. JUST ARRIVED from the "AIRSTRIKE 700" RANGE! A6 INTRUDER, CORSAIR, FW200 Focke Wulf Condor, Panther, Skyhawk, Devastators, S55/Whirlwinds, Hawker Osprey, Lynx, Wasp/Scout, Skyknight AEW Skyraiders, AEW Gannets, Cougar, Demon, Fury, Cougar,Fury, Skynight, Vindicators, And for the WEM Photoetched brass range, new stocks of 1/700 Royal Navy "O/P Class" Destroyer etched brass for new Tamiya kit at £5.08 (still some imperfects at £3.50) 1/700 HMS Hood etched brass for Tamiya kit at £9.15.. suggest 2 x WEM PRO 7001 Twin 4 inch guns for further detailing of this kit, and the WEM PRO cast resin 8-Barrelled Pom-poms at £1.57. Also from the WEM PRO range, Triple torpedo tubes x 4 at £1.57... all from original patterns. And Being Released this week WEM 1/700 HMS Kashmir, totally rebuilt masters inc. fab. Etched brass set for J,K and N Classes! WEM 1/700 Dido 1942 NEW masters WEM 1/700 Penelope 1940 NEW masters And arriving NEXT week from the AIRSTRIKE 1/700 range…Battle, Beaufort,Do 217, P39, Wellington, Buffalo, Wyvern, Tigercat, Buckeye Cheers Caroline White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/avenue/xdt22/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: 1/350 WTB: BB Missouri for parts Greetings all... I'm looking for a 1/350 Tamiya Missouri for parts, specifically the 40mm, 20mm, and 5in. guns. Need parts for scratchbuilding project, am too lazy to cast my own, and can't bring myself to scrap a new Missouri kit.... Jeff Herne Warship "May is battleship month at Warship......and we're bringing out the big guns!" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume