Subject: SMML8/5/98VOL173 shipmodels@wr.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: RN Escort Carrier Deck Markings 2: Re: Casting Situation 3: 1/350 Yamato & Musashi 4: SLQ 25 5: 200 6: Re: SMS Dresden - deck colors 7: Resin Vacuum and pressure pots 8: Pit Road Plastic Kit 9: Pulling a vacuum 10: Re: 1/350 WTB: BB Missouri for parts 11: Evergreen plastics 12: Resin Casting - some ideas 13: 1/600 to 1/700 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: First Look: Iron Shipwright 1:350 HMS Sheffield 2: GMM For Sale ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Nowfel Leulliot Subject: RN Escort Carrier Deck Markings Hello, I am looking for information about RN Escort Carrier Deck Markings, specifically flight deck code letters. Did other escort carriers besides HMS Emperor (large E) usually display such deck letters? The information I have is very sketchy. Judging from photos scattered in "The British Aircraft Carrier" by Paul Beaver (PSL, 1982) and various other (magazine) sources, I have found these _possible_ markings : Escort carriers : A unidentified Attacker or Ameer class O HMS Ameer in British Pacific Fleet, 1945 (possibly a "zero" or in combination with another letter) R or K? HMS Ameer in Trincomalee, July 1945 (letter on forward lift) B HMS Battler (date unknown, letter slightly unclear) K HMS Khedive (date unknown, letter on forward lift) 8? HMS Begum (date unknown, could be a B?) The letters on the forward lifts (Ameer and Begum) may not be carrier id letters for all I know. Merchant Aircraft Carriers : O + unidentified letter (possibly W?) Empire Mackendrick S+W Empire Macdermott unidentified letter + W Empire Mackay Could someone point me to a source (book or article) that gives this sort of information ? Also, any sources for disruptive schemes (all I have is Peter Hodges "Royal Navy Warship Camouflage 1939-1945" (Almark, 1973) which has a drawing of HMS Campania) would be appreciated. Photos of RN escorts in the Pacific show a "standard" panel, would a G45/B20 combination be appropriate ? Thanks for any help, Nowfel ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: WFulp Subject: Re: Casting Situation I wanted to write again about my e-mail of 5-6-98 and resin casting. I improperly asked about casting the Blue Water Navy turrets from the South Dakota. I e-mailed back and forth a while with the owners of BWN that I have dealt with for years. Copying parts like I suggested is wrong and also illegal. These guys spend a lot of money and time creating these parts and they are copyrighted. The guys at MB Models/ Blue Water Navy are a class act and without people like them, our hobby would not exist. If everyone copied kit parts to create other kits, there would be no cottage industry as they would all go out of business. I meant no harm in asking this question but I admit that what I was suggesting is improper. MB/Blue Water Navy wanted me to let everyone know that their parts are available for improving and scratchbuilding kits. I am purchasing the turrets that I need much cheaper that I could cast them (and they will be much better). They have white metal, photoetch, and resin parts that are so much better than the original (ie the Tamiya Missouri kit) that it is incredible. Once again, my intention is to let people know that copying parts is wrong (and illegal) and that most manufacturers are going to sell you this part cheaper (and better) than you can copy it. Thanks! Wayne Fulp ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: 1/350 Yamato & Musashi Dear SMML, I've just been notified by my suppliers that Modelcraft of Canada has released a 1/350 Yamato & Musashi. The price is a bit cheaper than Tamiya. Does any one know of the quality of these kits? Are these new kits or Tamiya rereleases? Thanks, shaya@erols.com Naval Base Hobbies ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From - Greg Lee (Listmaster - SMML) Subject - SLQ 25 I have been chating with Rob Mackie about the SLQ-25 Nixie. Towed torpedo counter measure using paired noisemaker decoys found on Perry Class Frigates, Arleigh Burkes etc... and I was wondering if anybody had a pic of the actual unit, or know's of a pic anywhere on the web? Thanks Greg ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: 200 Greg: I think the idea of a collection is a great idea. I would suggest an electronic version rather than printed though. Easy to produce a disc vs printing, etc. CD would be the best of course. Keep up the good work. Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Tom·s E Tirado Kr¸ger" Subject: Re: SMS Dresden - deck colors Thanks a lot to David Krakow and Roger Clemens for their very contributives answers about Dresden colors. I'm still working, so, any other comment about kit corrections, colors, rigging etc, are very useful to me and to others... Thanks again Tomas ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Johnston" Subject: Resin Vacuum and pressure pots Hi all, have been following the thread of casting and have done a bit with RTV, Alumilite, and Polyester materials. While I do not use vac or pressure I have checked out what is needed and it can be pretty basic but first you need a small vacuum pump/compressor combination and there are plenty about that do both. You probably need at least 6 bar ability. Make a chamber out of suitably rated CPVC pipe with at least one end fully removable so that you can slide your 'rubber' into it and then close up. If you have a diameter of pipe that is big enough to stand vertically over your component, for the vacuum option all you need are two pieces of 1/4" steel plate and a couple of same size pieces of rubber sheet to act as gaskets. Assemble them with a tube fitting and a small weight to hold it down and vacuum away. A laboratory vacuum jar works fine also. For pressure your ends need to be welded (PVC Solvent) with correct pressure rated flanges that can be bolted right through with tie bolts and gaskets. Most shops working in larger plastic pipe sizes would likely have offcuts of these bigger sizes that they would give you. An old pressure cooker also works for both but you have to compromise on pressure as most rate max at about 15psig which is really not enough. The vac option is reccomended. cheers Raynor J PS I would be interested in photoetching resist materials available that can be applied by screen methods if anyone can help. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Nuno J. V. Rubim" Subject: Pit Road Plastic Kit A few months ago I ordered from a Japanese modelshop, named Hobby Link Japan a 1/ 700 kit of the IJN CV Zuiho. I gave them,by letter ,all of my CC elements,wich they aknowledge by e-mail. Then began an incredible "saga",with them sustaining that they were unable to obtain CC clearance and myself answering the impossibility of such an event.Later,through the "rec.models.scale" newsgroup I found some identical experiences... Of course I cancelled my order,but I didn't get my model ! Does anyone knows where can I order it by e-mail ? Thanks N.Rubim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Bob Morley Subject: Pulling a vacuum vacuum pumps and pressure pots can be expensive items to buy. Another way to do the same thing, is to use a slower but much less expensive item. See if you can scrounge a compressor - along with all the wiring - from a home type deep freezer. These make excellent vacuum pumps. The area to be vacuumed is connected to the suction side of the compressor and the high pressure side is open to the air. I use one to pull a vacuum on my car's airconditioner when recharging. It is somewhat slower than a commercial vacuum pump, but a LOT cheaper. You can get with a good one, 26+ inches of vacuum. In fact, the low cost vacuum pumps sold for air conditioner servicing are compressors in a box. However do not try to use an air conditioner compressor. They are not designed to pull as low a vacuum as freezer compressors and will not do the job. If you wanted a large quantity of vacuum very quickly, you could pull a vacuum on a portable air tank, then suddenly open the casting to the vacuum in the air tank. A series of empty Freon tanks (often free for the asking) would make a good vacuum reservoir. They also make good (150 PSI) air tanks. Remove/drill out the plastic valve in the top. Then thread the hole for 1/4" pipe. I use one like this for an airbrush air tank on the output of the compressor to smooth out the pulsations. A pressure cooker and as someone mentioned, a paint pot could be plumbed as a pressure pot. These (and commercial vacuum pumps) are often available at garage sales and/or flea markets, as well as pawn shops. Good luck, Bob Morley *** Faith is not beliving that God can, It's KNOWING that He will. *** ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Candy Forster & Rob Robinson Subject: Re: 1/350 WTB: BB Missouri for parts Jeff Herne wrote: >> I'm looking for a 1/350 Tamiya Missouri for parts, specifically the 40mm, 20mm, and 5in. guns. Need parts for scratchbuilding project, am too lazy to cast my own, and can't bring myself to scrap a new Missouri kit.... << A suggestion: Try Tamiya! I called an 800 number they have to get extra Yamato turrets. Turns out they'll sell you whole sprues (not individual parts) at what I considered a very reasonable rate. I don't remember the number, but somebody else here might, or you can try: http://www.tamiya.com/ and see what turns up. Rob Robinson Skillman, NJ mailto:robster1@ix.netcom.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: dbauer@access1.net (dbauer) Subject: Evergreen plastics Has anyone noticed lately (or have I been the only unlucky soul to purchase them) that the Evergreen plastic rod in sizes .020", .030", and .040" aren't round? I've checked the stock at the hobby shop and some are round and some aren't. I wrote to Evergreen and brought it to their attention, but (naturally) haven't heard a word from them. Would like to know if other scratchbuilders are finding the same problem. Doug Bauer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Ron or Julie Hillsden Subject: Resin Casting - some ideas I saved the following thoughts from an old thread in rec.models.scale.... 1. You can pressurize your casting in an old pressure cooker. You probably already have a compressor for your airbrush. Tap the lid of the pressure cooker for a pressure gauge and valve. Don't put to much pressure in the cooker (they said 30 pounds was more than enough), it won't improve the casting but it'll ruin your day if the cooker explodes. The theory here is that the high pressure will drive the bubbles into suspension when they'll stay when the resin cures. Someone else said they leave it under 30# for 24 hours for RTV, and 10 minutes for resin. This is cheaper than getting a good vaccuum source that'll pull a near perfect vaccuum. Someone else suggested tapping a bicycle tire valve into the lid and using a bicycle pump to pressurize the cooker. Somone else a paint pot - if you have one, I guess you know what it is.... 2. Having said that, a good cheap vaccuum pump can be salvaged from a household refrigerator or automobile air conditioner. In my neck of the woods these are difficult to obtain because the systems are chrged with freon which damages the Ozone layer. But if you can find a source, you can make a vaccuum table by fitting a valve in a piece of plywood covered with a smooth countertop material (ie sink cutout - scrap), then bedding a pyrex type glass bowl inverted in a ring of silicone sealer which will become the gasket when cured. Procedure: pour into mold, put mold on table, cover with bowl, apply vaccuum. Another cheap souce for a good vaccuum is a venturi from a scientific supply house - attach it to a fawcett, it will apparently pull about 29". 3. If you are going to vaccuum, vibrating will help. Attaching an orbital sander to your vaccuum table will work. 4. If you want to try centrifical casting, you can tie 3 or 4 feet of twine to a tin can, put your mold in the can and swing it around. Those of us who are less exuberient can make a centrifical spinner from an old record player. Just need something to attach the mold and counterweights. Firmly, unless you want to learn how to sprint. 5. Some less glamourous suggestions: a) after the part has cured, mix a little more resin, pour it in the mold and put the bubbled part back in. You may have to do this more than once! b) make sure the resin is fresh. If it is past it's shelf life, you will get bubbles c) dust the mold with talc to reduce surface tension d) add some micro-balloons to the resin to reduce surface tension and add weight(?) to pull the resin into corners. e) be gentle mixing the resin and tap the mold sharply several times after it is fill to dislodge bubbles. moldmaking and Casting FAQ at ftp://kewlaid.highfiber.com/pub/rpg/miniatures/Do-it-Yourself/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Kevin Surjan" Subject: 1/600 to 1/700 I would like to know if it is possible to reduce or shrink plastic injected models say the Airfix naval kits from 1/600 to 1/700. If it is possible how can it be done? Regards, Kevin Surjan Perth WA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Rob Mackie" Subject: First Look: Iron Shipwright 1:350 HMS Sheffield Stop by Warship (http://warship.simplenet.com) for a first look at the soon-to-be-released 1:350 HMS Sheffield by Iron Shipwright. Click on the "News" heading or the red "What's New" button on the Warship Home Page to view pics of this long awaited model. Rob Mackie Warship http://warship.simplenet.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: James Corley Subject: Re: GMM for sale Nautilus Models carries the full line of GMM sets at 10% off, with the exception of the 1/200 YAMATO, MISSOURI, and TITANIC/LUSITANIA sets (email me about these). Here is the list. I ship everything by USPS Priority Mail, which is superb! Just sent a package to Singapore last Thursday, the guy got it Monday morning!! Nautilus also carries the full line of KMC and TAC Scale Dynamics kits, while not ships many are for naval aviation subjects. Our webpage should be up and running soon (I hope): http://www.nautilusmodels.com GMM700-1 NAVAL SHIP $10.80 GMM700-2 MERCHANT SHIP $10.80 GMM700-3 WW2 USN BB $10.80 GMM700-4 YAMATO/MUSHASHI $10.80 GMM700-5 WW2 GERMAN BB $10.80 GMM700-6 KGV/POW RN BB $10.80 GMM700-7 WW2 USN CV $10.80 GMM700-8 WW2 USN CA/CL/DD $10.80 GMM700-9 MODERN SOVIET WARSHIP $10.80 GMM700-10 MODERN USN/JMSDF WARSHIP $10.80 GMM700-11 MODERN CVN $10.80 GMM700-12 WW2 IJN BB $10.80 GMM700-13 WW2 IJN CA/CL/DD $10.80 GMM700-14 WW2 IJN CV $10.80 GMM700-15 MODERN RN WARSHIP $10.80 GMM700-16 WW2 RN CV $10.80 GMM700-17 NAVAL FIGURES $3.60 GMM700-18 WW2 CV AIRCRAFT PARTS $3.60 GMM700-19 EXTRA LADDERS $3.60 GMM700-20 ANCHORS & CHAINS $4.50 GMM700-21 20MM CANNONS $3.60 GMM700-22 WATERTIGHT DOORS $3.60 GMM700-23 GOLD PLUS ULTRA-FINE RAILS $13.50 GMM700-24 WW2 USN CVE/CVL $10.80 GMM700-25 GOLD PLUS IJN ULTRA-FINE RAILS $13.50 GMM600-1 NAVAL SHIP $13.50 GMM600-2 MERCHANT SHIP $13.50 GMM600-3 KGV/POW RN BB $13.50 GMM600-4 BISMARK/TIRPITZ $13.50 GMM500-1 YAMATO/MUSHASHI $18.00 GMM500-2 WW2 IJN BB $18.00 GMM500-3 WW2 IJN CA/CL/DD $18.00 GMM500-4 WW2 IJN CV $18.00 GMM500-5 NAVAL SHIP $18.00 GMM540-6 USN CV ESSEX/MIDWAY/FORR. $36.00 GMM400-1 NAVAL SHIP $32.40 GMM400-2 WATERTIGHT DOORS $4.50 GMM400-3 REVELL BB ARIZONA $25.20 GMM400-4 REVELL CV YORKTOWN $32.40 GMM400-5 WW2 GERMAN WARSHIP $32.40 GMM400-6 EXTRA LADDERS $4.50 GMM450-7 MERCHANT SHIP (Savannah/United States/France) $32.40 GMM350-1 USN BB NEW JERSEY 1985 $32.40 GMM350-2 CVN ENTERPRISE $32.40 GMM350-3 MERCHANT SHIP (TITANIC/LUISIT.) $32.40 GMM350-4 WW2 USN BB MISSOURI $32.40 GMM350-5 YAMATO/MUSHASHI $32.40 GMM350-6 BISMARK/TIRPITZ $32.40 GMM350-7 KGV/POW RN BB $32.40 GMM350-8 NAVAL FIGURES $4.50 GMM350-9 EXTRA LADDERS $4.50 GMM350-10 40mm GUNSIGHTS & RAILS $4.50 GMM350-11 WATERTIGHT DOORS $4.50 GMM350-12 MOD USN CG/DD $32.40 GMM350-13 EMDEN/DRESDEN $25.20 GMM350-14 WW2 FLETCHER DD $25.20 GMM350-15 GOLD PLUS TITANIC DECK SET $9.00 GMM350-16 OCEAN LINER FIGURES $9.00 GMM350-17 REVELL USCGC CAMPBELL $36.00 GMM200-1 YAMATO/MUSHASHI CALL GMM200-2 THREE-BAR RAILING $32.40 GMM200-3 TWO-BAR RAILING $32.40 GMM240-4 OLYMPIA/OREGON CA/BB $36.00 GMM240-5 BUCKLEY/WARD DD $36.00 GMM192-1 WW2 USN BB MISSOURI CALL GMM192-2 MERCHANT SHIP CALL GMM96-1 NAVAL SHIP RAILING STANCHIONS $18.00 GMM96-2 MERCH SHIP RAILING STANCHIONS $18.00 GMM72-1 MARSDEN STEEL RUNWAY MATS $8.10 GMM48-1 MARSDEN STEEL RUNWAY MATS $13.50 GMM32-1 MARSDEN STEEL RUNWAY MATS $16.20 GMM700-1D NAVAL SHIP DECALS $4.50 GMM700-2D WW2 USN A/C DECALS $5.40 GMM700-3D USN MOD A/C INSIGNIA DECALS $5.40 GMM350-1D NAVAL SHIP DECALS $7.20 GMM350-2D ENTERPRISE CVW - LO-VIZ DECAL $4.50 GMM35-3D ENTERPRISE CVW - HI-VIZ DECAL $5.40 GMM700/350-1D INTL FLAGS DECAL $5.40 GMM192-1D NAVAL SHIP DECALS $4.50 GMM96-1D NAVAL SHIP DECALS $9.00 GMMHB-1 PHOTOETCHING FOR THE PLASTIC SHIP MODELLER $7.20 ****NOTE FROM LISTMASTER**** ------------------------------------------------ James, Just a short reminder about the SMML policy of advertising, the readers placed a limit of 20 - 25 lines in the recent poll, so we can probly get away with this ad, but we would both be flamed if we tried it again, o.k? Thanks Greg (Listmaster - SMML) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume