Subjecy: SMML12/5/98VOL177 shipmodels@wr.com.au ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Computer techologies for model mastering 2: Non Stick Glue 3: Round Plastic Rod 4: 1/350 Yamato & Musashi 5: Re: Micro Soldering Etched Parts 6: Re: brass handwheels 7: RMS Olympic WWI Camouflage 8: Re: List of Collectors, dealers & manufacturers. 9: Re: Attaching photoetch ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS INDEX 1: E Boats ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Paolo Pizzi Subject: Computer techologies for model mastering Rusty White: >> The technology is there. It's available now. The pentagraph has been replaced by a lazer. Right now as far as I know, it's being used on figrue models. The master is placed on a turntable controlled by computer. As the turntable rotates, the laser picks up any minute changes on the surface of the master. A duplicate lazer then cuts the new figure any scale the manufacturer wants on a second turntable. The rsult is a second master at a different scale. Depending on the power of the lazer, a model can be made from resin or metal. The only problem being it's horrendously expensive. << The entire process is a two-step one. The first step is actually not that expensive. I have hired a couple of companies that can produce excellent 3-D models (I mean VIRTUAL ones, 3D graphics) from tridimensional objects for my tv productions. I have used this technique to create computer animations for documentaries and I'm not the only one (you may have seen some 3d animations involving warships or airplanes on the History Channel, most of them were done this way.) Getting hi-res 3D images (we're talking MILLIONS of polygons) in the computer from tridimensional objects is within the reach of most resin producers at about $2-300 a piece. The problem is with the second step of the operation: feeding the computer data (scaled to whatever scale you choose) to a laser cutting machine (to produce an injection master,) now THAT is horrendously expensive and it may set you back some 2-300 THOUSAND dollars... I believe that's exactly what Tamiya did with their 1/72 Seiran, scaled down from the 1/48 master. Paolo Pizzi http://navismagazine.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Ritchie_deutag, Colin" Subject: Non Stick Glue >> I've got an old 1/600 Airfix QE2 but I can't seem to find a glue that will stick the pieces together. Everything seems not to work as well as on more modern kits. Even Contacta liquid and Loctite super-glue have no effect. Is this normal for these old kits? And, if it is, can anyone suggest something that I can use? I've found that a thick tube glue called Weldtite seems to have some effect on it but it's so thick that it useless for fine details. Can anyone help???? << Hi there , My guess, for what its worth is that there is the plastic is covered with oil, grease or some other similar contaminant . Airfix used standard styrene plastic, and on the older kits the plastic is quite delightful to work with, compared to the modern stuff they use now. Try washing the kit if soapy water, followed by air drying, and if necessary use Isopropyl alcohol to finish off with. I have seen problems in the past with plastic not holding, and the fact that Cynao is also giving problems makes me think that's the root of you problems. Just my 2pence worth, Colin Ritchie ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Steve Sobieralski Subject: Round Plastic Rod I've had the same experince with Evergreen "oval" rod. Plastruct sytrene rod is a better alternative. Its round and the plastic itself is of excellent quality. It can be hard to find at hobby shops, but is available through the Walther model rr catalog. Steve Sobieralski ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: 1/350 Yamato & Musashi Dear Ship Modelers, Has any one heard of the 1/350 Yamato & Musashi kits from Modelcraft in Canada. Are Tamiya knock offs or new less expensive kits? Reply to SMML or Naval Base Hobbies shaya@erols.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 From: DKrakow105 Subject: Re: Micro Soldering Etched Parts I rountinely solder tiny etched parts together. It takes a delicate touch and steady nerves, but the pay-off is a very strong bond, and seamless joints. I tried several tools and methods, including resistance soldering, and developed the following technique. I use a small refillable butane torch, since the gentle flame heats the parts without shifting them, as an iron would. (Its not a blow-torch, it just produces a little pencil-point sized flame.) I use generic lead-free rosin-core solder such as from Radio Shack. I use small amounts of flux paste, I don't remember where I got mine anymore, but flux paste is also also available at Radio Shack. Any standard soldering technique will work for the bigger parts. For soldering the small stuff, however, it is critical that (a) the parts do not move when the solder is applied, and (b) that only enough solder is used to form the bond, and not so much that the parts are obliterated. Clean the surfaces to be joined by gently sanding with wet and dry sandpaper. Coat the surfaces to be joined with flux paste, using a brush or toothpick. Lay the parts together as you want them. Often the parts are so small that the flux paste alone is enough to hold everything together. If not, you can use pins, scraps of metal or wire to hold the pieces together at correct angles. Use common sense and remember that this stuff will get hot. Work over a piece of ceramic tile or brick. With a razor blade, slice tiny, grain-of-sand sized slivers of solder and apply them at intervals along the joint before applying heat. Tweezers are handy for this. The flux paste holds the solder chips in place. When everything alligned and the solder chips are in place, just switch on the flame and pass it over the parts. The solder will melt and flow wherever the flux was applied (even between and under parts). If you did it right, the cooled solder will be a thin shiny coating, filling gaps between the parts, and the bond will be very strong. Solder lumps can be cleaned up with a file or fine sandpaper. If you are soldering more than two pieces together, you must not melt the previously made joints. If the joints are close together, you can prevent unwanted melting by draping wet tissue over the previous joints. Just tear a little patch of tissue and dip it in water, then drape it over the joint. Wet tissue will also protect plastic, etc. Soldered parts can be unsoldered by reheating them. Remember to clean the parts before trying again. Takes practice, but a soldered metal assembly is not only stronger, but somehow much more satisfying than a glued one! :) David Krakow ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: BSteinIPMS Subject: Re: brass handwheels >> I'm converting the old Revell USS MISSION CAPISTRANO into a Navy fleet oiler and I'm in need of many tiny brass (or whatever) handwheels for the various gate valves. I've got some 2mm ones, but they're out of scale (or do you think it would be all that noticable)- plus I forgot where I got them. Does anybody know of an outlet for this type of thing? << Try BlueJacket Shipcrafters. They have several different sizes of cast and photoetched brass handwheels in their catalog. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis BSteinIPMS@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Duane Fowler Re: RMS Olympic WWI Camouflage Articles on modifying the Academy Titanic model into the Olympic and Britannic appeared in the Challenge Publications magazine "Scale Ship Modeler," June/July 1996 and August/September 1996. You can order back issues directly from Challenge for $6 each ($5 for four or more). The articles only list those modifications to the model in addition to the corrections for an accurate Titanic. For the rest of the general Titanic items, see the site: http://www.flash.net/~rfm/MODELING/guide.html. These articles all deal with constructing commercial liners, not transports or hospital ships. For the other additions (like the four 4 pounders on the fo'csle and docking bridge) you will need to do some research. As to the camouflage schemes of the Olympic, there were at least three. The first was used at the Dardenels and was just a general darkening of the white areas to medium grey and painting the funnels black. The second two were full dazzle patterns in yellow, blue, red, black, and white. Though there are not many photographs available, I have found the best source to be "Liners in Battledress," by David Williams. Unfortunately, I have never seen any photographs of the starboard side of the Olympic with the second scheme. There is a hand colored image of the starboard stern of the Olympic in the second scheme in the book "Titanic: An Illustrated History, Vol. 1" by Donald Lynch, Robert D. Ballard, and Ken Marschall (I have never seen volume two and can only suppose it has yet to be published). It also shows the tremendous number of lifeboats and rafts carried as well as the positions of the stern 4 pounders. Hope that helps. Duane Fowler ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: John VCP Subject: Re: List of Collectors, dealers & manufacturers. Jim, Please resend me your snailmail address - major computer crash caused your msg to be deleted!!! Tnxs, John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------- From: JGordon262 Subject: Re: Attaching photoetch 5/10 Bradford wrote: >> Most instructions call for use of superglue to assemble parts after they have been folded; i.e. the catapult or crane boom assemblies. However, this makes for a rather fragile assembly which is easily broken. I was wondering about soldering them instead. A solder joint would be much stronger. << Ah, Grasshopper, an idea of force and vigor! But, Consider which is more powerful- the iron of the hammer, or the fluttering of the butterfly's wings? The hammer can impose your will, but the butterfly inspires a man's spirit. You cannot catch a butterfly with a hammer, eager student. I offer you this haiku as inspiration: Flea jumps in morning light Blind man with chopsticks pounces Bit on the ass again You must now undertake a fast until this lesson is learned. Zen Master Haguro ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS & ANNOUNCEMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Alberto Rada Subject: E Boats I have the Profile on E Boats, if you want a photocopy of it please let me know and send me your email address SALUDOS Alberto ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume