Subject: SMML21/07/98VOL247 Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 20:26:03 +1000 (EST) shipmodels@wr.com.au --------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://warship.simplenet.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Paint colours, RLM matches 2: Modeling 1/350 handrails to bulkheads with GMM ladders. Add a little superdetail! 3: Decals 4: RE:Poor Quality of Ship Instructions 5: Lindberg Enterprise 1/400 6: Manufacturer's contributions, in support thereof 7: Hobby shop & Book store in UK 8: Are models from this company OK ? 9: Re: Models from this company OK? 10: Re: Modern Paint 11: Re: Spanish-American War Ships 12: Re: Ship Decals Wanted 13: 1/350 vs 1/700 14: Re: Good Modeling Advice on Resin Kits 15: Re: Back of the bus? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: WTD - Príncipe de Asturias plans 2: Re: USS Oregon PE set ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Ritchie_deutag, Colin" Subject: Paint colours, RLM matches Subject: Modern Navy Paints? Christian D'Ambra wrote in SMML 244: >> THE SECRET: Ship color = RLM 63 + about 30% or so Flat Gull Grey. It works. Deck color = RLM 74. For the ignorant like me what is RLM in reference to paints? Is it in the Model Master line? << RLM stands for, (Pardon my dog German), Reich Luft Ministry, ie German WWII Air Ministry. In WWII aviation circles RLM colours are the equivalent of US FS595A, in that they are a standard set of colours understood by paint manufacturers, and modellers. Check Aeromaster, Testors, or even Xtracolour in he UK, and they will all have a match for RLM 74. Colin Ritchie PS I still think FS36118 (Gunship Grey is a pretty good match for deck dark grey) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Foeth" Subject: Modeling 1/350 handrails to bulkheads with GMM ladders. Add a little superdetail! I found a workable and fast way to add 1/350 handrails to bulkheads. These handrails are very small, but are on the spot in a few minutes. It is actually very simple. I ordered some extra railing at GMM's, as I always do withg each set, for scrapping up. Take the wide style ladders. With an industrial razorblades (approx 1 inch long), cut the ladder in half along the longitudinal axis. You now have two pieces of handrail. With a pencil, add a line on the part where the rail should go. Now, take some transparant tape, stick it to the now-in-half ladder, add put it on the part, with the numerous cut bars (the very small thing you normaly stand on if it still were a ladder, I can't find the right word) *just* below the pencil line. These are the parts that will connect the bar with the bulkhead (Yes, all of them). This was the most difficult part, now the easy part. Take your pinvice, with a small drill. I used a 0.3mm spherical millercutter (That's how my dictionary calls it) (*just* a little smaller than 2/128 inch). I use a miller, which is less likely to break than a drill. Position the drill/miller above each etched bar and give it a twist. The small drill is, although it seems hard, very easy to position. I also used it to hollow the 5" guns on the Fletcher without any trouble. There now are a lot of holes in the bulkhead. Remove the ladder, and then, remove the tape >from the part and put all the part back, now in the tiny holes. If the drilling was precise enough, the part should fit easily, as did my parts. The drill is slightly oversized, so you should have some room to manouever. Now the part can be glued with CA. To add glue I use a HUT. That's what I call my Highly Usefull Tool. It's a cork from a winebottle with a small steel wire jammed in the cork. I use the HUT to add small amounts of glue to my models. Put some CA on a piece of plastic, and with the HUT, or something else, glue each individual bar, First the ends of the etched parts, than the rest in any random order as you see fit, like normal railing. Now you have a 1/350 handrail on your bulkhead! The CA fills all the holes, so none can be seen after painting. Also, by drilling the rail in the bulkhead, the part is suprisingly sturdy. This exercise takes only several minutes for each ladder. I order the miller at a goldsmith/jeweler, but should be readily available. They are, as far as I now, not orderable at Micro Mark's. The result is quite nice, although fitting the Titanic with these handrails might be less than quick, and perhaps expensive in etched ladders, but very nice! Good luck, Evert-Jan Foeth ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: John Sheridan Subject: Decals >> Please tone the white down so that it isn't stark against the grey. << Good suggestions Ed. The only problem might be the toning-down the white. When we do this, it tends to go gray really fast aka scale effect. John Sheridan @ Microscale Decals http://www.microscale.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: John Sheridan Subject: Re: Poor Quality of Ship Instructions Dave Carter wrote: >> To John of Microscale... warship decals?? Don't do it. It will be an extremely long time before your investment is recouped. Loren Perry already does a good range of US Navy markings in 1/350 Scale, and a set of 1/700 aircraft markings. Skywave also produces a seriously good IJN set, and an extremely comprehensive Modern USN/JMSDF set. MB has a 1/350 set for the US Navy. << We are not going to get into the Warships decal business. My purpose in this discussion was to see what us modelers need in decals that has not been prodcued yet. I know of Lorens decal sets and other on the market and they are quite good. I would like to see either Loren or one of the other manufacturers update and/or expand their existing sets to include data that has not been produced yet. For example, right now there is no decal set to use on a WWII Carrier in 1/350th scale. There are three kits already on the market (BWN Yorktowns), and three more (Tom's Modelworks Essex, Bouge, and Guadalcanal) on their way. John Sheridan @ Microscale Decals http://www.microscale.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "James M. Pasquill, II" Subject: Lindberg Enterprise 1/400 I recently found two unbuilt USS Enterprise 1/400 scale Lindberg kits. Any estimates on what they are worth? The boxes are not mint but still nice looking. The contents are still bagged. Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "James M. Pasquill, II" Subject: Manufacturer's contributions, in support thereof >> It appears to me that John Sheridan of Microscale and Burl Burlingame of Pacific Monograph are interested in the needs of the modelling community, hence they post into the main area (Greg, correct me on this if I'm out of line). Simply because they are manufacturers doesn't ban them to the back of the bus, or the end of list. But I did not see either John or Burl try to peddle their products in the main section of the list. I have no trouble with a manufacturer posting a request in the main section, asking for opinions from us about their products. What I don't want to see somebody's catalog pasted into their message. If I want their products, I know where to go to get it. << I would like to support this comment. I like the fact that pure modelers and modeler/manufacturers can discuss their needs of models/supplies but also the business side of the endeavor as well. There is a big difference between discussing an aspect of the hobby and pure advertizement. If a discussion leads to the introduction of a new or better model from one manufacturer we all benefit, including the manufacturers who do not produce the model; after all, a thriving, satisfied bunch of modelers is only going to buy more models, right? Give us modelers, especially those of us who do not contribute often if at all, some credit. We will speak up when we feel that a manufacturer's contribution is just an ad. Up to this point I'd say the contributions of the manufacturing modelers has been appropriate. Now if any of you manufacturers wants to talk about producing a kit for an accurate 3 masted coasting schooner instead of another WWII era ship I am ready to listen even more intently.... Oh, and while I have your attention.... Does anyone produce in something close to 1/87 scale a 1920s era coastal freighter of a type that might have been seen on the Eastern U.S. coast? Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Roberto Paredes" Subject: Hobby shop & Book store in UK Hi everybody, Maybe the next week, I will visit London and Glasgow, Do you know any hobby shop and books store in these cities? I need the name and the address. I will stay 5 days in Glasgow and only one in London, therefore, I specially need address in Glasgow. Best regards, Roberto. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Dave Carter Subject: Are models from this company OK ? Hi Johnny, >> I was wondering if any of you knows this POSEIDON PROGRAM company. And if it´s any good. I realize that if it´s complete waste of money, then it´s too late for me but at least it can prevent others from doing my mistake << We saw said subject at the U.K. Nationals in October, and, although rather "Eastern European" in its presentation, appeared to be a reasonable model... don't fret TOO much! It was rather expensive and was a bit off the mark as far as WEM were concerned, but for that, an interesting and pretty bold venture I feel. Remember that if it does turn out to be a waste of money, you ARE entitled to a full refund within European law. Cheers Caroline C. http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "David P. Judy III" Subject: Re: Models from this company OK? Johnny, I have built this model, you do not say if the hull is vac formed or injected, some kits came either way! I built the inject.hull kit, it is a very nice kit, except some of the superstructure parts must be sanded so they will go together squarely( is that the right word?) When you get the kit you will see what I mean!( unless they fixed the problem). I also have the Osa II kit and it is very nice also! This company had a brochure which included a 1/350 Viribus Unitus/ Wiskey"Longbin" Russian sub but I have never heard any more about it!! If you have a line on this company ,I would like you to drop me a line, please! I just happened to upload some shots of it to Rob Mackie for the Gallery yesterday, maybe he will include them! Dave Judy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Modern Paint Gene Larson wrote: >>For the ignorant like me what is RLM in reference to paints? Is it in the Model Master line? << No, it's a reference to WW2 German military paint colors for aircraft and vehicles, mostly. I don't know the English translation for RLM, though. Mike ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Spanish-American War Ships Alberto Rada wrote on the USS Winslow: >> I would thank any one who could come with some plans or views on it, as I have not been able to find much. << Me neither. There is a small, starboard side line drawing of sister USS Foote in Friedman's "U.S. Destroyers: An Illustrated Design History" and a couple of grainy photos viewable at the Naval Historical Center web site (http://www.history.navy.mil). Somebody mentioned that the Maryland Silver Company did a plan set, but I just got the catalog and it covers the later torpedo boat destroyers, and not the early TBs. Brad C. said that Taubman has a plan set, so that's worth looking into also. and Wayne wrote: >> Now that I've seen the pics of the USS Oregon at the Warship page, I'm finally motivated to build the Glencoe 1/225 kit that's been sitting on my shelf. Are there any PE sets applicable to the 1/225 Glencoe USS Oregon? << The excellent Gold Medal Models set for the Oregon and Olympia is a must for building either of those kits. It is described as 1/240 scale; the Revell Olympia is about 1/225 and the Glencoe Oregon about 1/233. Not to split hairs... Mike ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Ship Decals Wanted Rick Heinbaugh wrote: >> As far as "E"s, I was pretty hapy with what Loren Perry put in his decal sheets. << Roger that. The GMM decals are pretty nice but any additions by Microscale or whomever would be most welcome, since about 99.9% of all the model decals sold are for planes and tanks. >> As a Chief Engineer, I had to become _intimately_ familiar with the specifications for the Gold Engineering E and hashmark that went on STEIN when she received her fifth and sixth awards. << A gold Engineering E!?! Way to go, sir. And we though we were hot stuff when, after shedding sufficient blood, sweat and tears, we got a hashmark to go underneath our lousy (I mean coveted) red E up on the forward stack! (Also convinced me to look for a new line of work...) But seriously, ribbons and other awards for modern USN types are a nice idea but pretty hard to see in 1/350, let alone fit on a 1/700 model. >> I wrote an article for Larry Gertner's now defunct IPMS Special Interest Group ship publication several years ago that detailed colors and locations of those departmental award markings. If anybody is interested, I can provide a copy, when my archived computer disks show up. << Definitely worth sharing; please make these available to the unitiated. Mike ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "John H. Werler" <110370.665@compuserve.com> Subject: 1/350 vs 1/700 The recent postings on SMML regarding 1/350 versus 1/700 scale ship models have prompted me to join into this listing for the first time. I confess - "I'm a 1/700-holic" for many of the same reasons as have already been noted in earlier postings by others. I first became hooked on the 1/700 scale with the release of the original Japanese waterline series back in the 1970's. After being hooked, I was extremely frustrated when the series ceased new releases in the 1980's. Except for an occasional Skywave or Matchbox release, the entire 1/700 (and all scales for that matter) ship modeling industry appeared to self distruct. This at a time when new injection kits continued to pour forth for aircraft, armor, trains, etc. Very frustrating! It was during this time that I dabbled in other ship model scales ranging from 1/400 all the way down to 1/2400, but my heart was still with 1/700. Then came the 1990's and what a change! The explosion of cottage industries for 1/700 resin kits and photoetched accessories has been nothing short of astounding to me. I don't begin to understand why this dramatic change has occurred over the last several years but I am certainly enjoying every minute of it! The question is intriguing though; what has happened to spur this sudden growth - pent up demand, new technology or what? As of late I have noticed what appears to be a trend toward more releases in the 1/350 scale. At first I was somewhat concerned that such a trend would be at the expense of 1/700 releases, as well it may be. But in the end I think what matters is that the ship modeling industry/community as a whole continues to grow and prosper. By doing so, I would hope that the market will continue to support many new releases in all of the present popular scales, 1/700 and 1/350 included; and that the cottage industry will continue to improve the products being offered. Although I now build 1/700 exclusively again, I do understand the personnal preference by many for 1/350 and I certainly admire the 1/350 kits coming out. They do make impressive and detailed models. However, if those of us who prefer 1/700 wish to see our fair shair of kits and accessories coming out in this scale, then we obviously need to buy them. I for one will continue to do just that to the extent that my wallet, wife and closet will allow. My wife is already calling me the "Imelda Marcos" of the ship modeling world since I just can't pass up that latest style to hit the store. I may not wear them...I mean build them for a while, but when I decide to, they will be ready in that closet! Speaking of the cottage industry, my hat is certainly off to the many individuals who continue to produce these resin and photoetched gems that are hitting the market. It's obvious that without them, the hobby would not be going through the exciting growth phase that we are now in. We would most likely continue to be totally dependent upon the" profit only" approach of the major injection manufacturers who must play it safe and thereby grind out the endless succession of Yamato's, Iowa's, Bismarck's etc. Nothing against profit or these particular ships, by the way; but there are so many other interesting subjects out there to model. I would also like to express my appreciation to those individuals who provide the wealth of information to us hobbyists through their unique support periodicals and web pages such as Plastic Ship Modeler, Warship and Navis. These sources have helped transform what had pretty much been a solitary hobby for me into more of a learning and improving experience. I have found SMML to be most helpful in this regard with it's "daily fix" of ship modeling assistance and banter. I no longer feel like a closet ship modeler lost in a world of aircraft and armor enthusiasts. Nice! Sorry for going on and on. In short, please keep the 1/700's coming. I never would have dreamed just ten years ago that this smorgasbord of products would have existed as it does now. A few more WWI subjects, like HMS Tiger, wouldn't be bad though; in 1/700 of course. John Werler Houston, Texas USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: RCClem@aol.com Subject: Re: Good Modeling Advice on Resin Kits My thanks to Ed Grune for easy-to-follow directions to correct a warped and mismatched resin hull. This kind of exchange of experience is what I enjoy about SMML and should be the overall intent of all of our questions and replies. This info will be directly useful to me soonly and may be helpful to numerous others. Some of the recent back-and-forth I've read on SMML may have started with good intent but has drifted off focus. Relax guys. Lets start modeling again! Roger Clemens Hinsdale, Illinois ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Burl Burlingame / Pacific Monograph Subject: Re: Back of the bus? Gosh, I didn't know I was, as a "manufacturer" supposed to post only to the TRADE section. I generally only hit the REPLY button and type away merrily. It was kind of thrilling to be considered big-time, though. Pacific Monograph posted a $180 profit last year. Not enough to buy most 1/350 scale model kits. Burl Burlingame Pacific Monograph, 1124 Kahili Street, Kailua HI 96734 A historical interpretation company. Visit our web site at http://www.PacificHistory.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Cataldo Torelli Subject: Príncipe de Asturias plans Hello, I'm still in the almost impossible task of looking for a set of plans of Spanish carrier Príncipe de Asturias. Any help will be very much welcome. Thanks, Cataldo Torelli Madrid, Spain ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Tom & Carolyn Harrison Subject: Re: USS Oregon PE set Photo-etched set for the Glenco 1/225 scale U.S.S. Orgeon. In addition to the currently available GMM set, we will have a set available by mid August, artwork complete, tooling being made and should be at supplier first of August. Priced aroung $25.00 "Working on Instructions" Tom ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume