Subject: SMML07/08/98VOL264 Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 01:58:44 +1000 (EST) shipmodels@wr.com.au --------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://warship.simplenet.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Best looking ship class 2: Plastic Injection Ship Kits 3: Re: Subject: Techniques Query, Canvas weather shields 4: Re: Canvas blast covers & waterline boot 5: Bootstripping and "the fairest of them all" 6: Re: Out of print Enterprise book 7: Re: Kit recommendations 8: Re: Mission Capistrano 9: JFK Slanted Stacks 10: RE: Plastic Injection Ship Kits 11: Thank you 12: Plastic Injection Ship Kit ideas etc 13: Pac Front Injected Kits 14: RE: Plastic Injection Ship Kits 15: Re: Midway Models 16: RE: Best Looking Ships 17: RE: Plastic Injection Ship Kits 18: re: Injection molded models wanted: 19: IJN grays 20: Re: Best looking ship class 21: Re: New Mexico 22: Re: best looking ships 23: Re: future injection molded kits 24: How does the new Tamiya 1/700 Yamato (!) look? 25: Re: David MacGregor Plans 26: USS Hollister 27: Best looking ship 28: Russian subs (Kilo class) 29: Re: Injection ship models from resin manufacturer 30: Re: Best Looking Ship Class 31: Best Looking Ships 32: What ship is that? 33: Re: Jeanne D'Arc 34: Re: Larger Scales - AFP Models 35: Best looking ship award 36: Typhoon hulls 37: Wooden ship diorama. 38: Jeanne d'Arc ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Tom Eisenhour Subject: Best looking ship class I cast one vote for the Alaska-class battlecruisers (CB). Tom Eisenhour Austin, Texas ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Tom Eisenhour Subject: Plastic Injection Ship Kits Bill, I'd love to see the DEs and I think they'd sell very well. I'd also like to see a high quality Balao in 1/200. IMHO 1/350 scale is just too small for WW2 subs. You didn't mention this but how about a Type VII-C U-boat in 1/200? Finally, an "off-the wall" suggestion: a square-conn LCI in 1/350 (even uglier than Flower-class corvettes!). Tom Eisenhour Austin, Texas ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Foeth" Subject: Re: Subject: Techniques Query, Canvas weather shields >> One of the biggest challenges I have had is modeling the canvas weather shields on 5" mounts and 6" and 8" turrets - in both 1/700 and 1/350 scale. This may have been discussed before I signed up, but is there any advice out there on the best way to build/construct/model/portray these items?? << You could try to first to fold some thin leadfoil around the barrel where the cover should go. You now have that very small thickening of the barrel (due to the cover) without the need to sculp it from putty, which is quite hard to do. Then, use Milliput, extra fine grain, to model the rest. Milliput can be put into shape with a wet brush, so this is very easy (And can be cleaned up with the same brush, so you have room to manouever). You can also try the shape the cover with Humbroll putty, which can be handled quite well, but Milliput is much more convenient. Milliput takes a few hours to start to harden, so you will have plenty of time. Paint it with oiles for a better cloth effect. If you use a very small drill, to hollow out the 5+" guns (1/350), the combined result is very nice. Evert-Jan Foeth ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Canvas blast covers & waterline boot I use a trick to make canvas blast covers and it works well in 1/350 and 1/700. I dab on any white glue (like Elmer's) good and thick and let dry overnight. The glue will shrink when it dries, so on larger scale models (like 1/350) it may take a second application. When it shrinks the glue leaves realistic wrinkles and looks like the real thing once painted. About painting a waterline boot. I figured this out a while back, but all you have to do is paint the boot first and tape it off. Leave the tape on until all other hull painting is done and zip the tape off. By the way, a great color for hull red is to mix 1 part Testors Rust color color to about 3 parts Testors Insignia Red. Add red or rust to shade to your individual taste. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Steven Rogers Subject: Bootstripping and "the fairest of them all" One of the readers was having trouble painting the waterline stripe. This may be helpful, Micro Mart has a tool called a machinist surface gauge. It consist of a base, angled column and a thumbscrew set- metal arm. With the hull mounted and leveled on your base, lightly spray primer around the waterline. Set gauge to measured height from a known reference point. Lightly scribe the paint as you slide the tip around the hull. Mask line and paint bottom and keel first. A slight edge will hold the line for painting the upper hull. Buff lightly with x-tra fine scotchbrite. Mask bottom and use this edge to maintain a straight waterline. Using a graphics double blade knife (adjustable width ) cut proper bootstripe mask. The bottom mask helps maintain alignment. A pre-desk top amberlith technique...works great, last a long time. Fairest on the high seas... "North Carolina, Alaska, Tiger, Defflinger". Steve Rogers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Out of print Enterprise book Contact Bill Gruner at Pacific Front Hobbies. He takes in collections of book and offers them for sale from time to time. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Kit recommendations Bill, How about a 1/350 scale model of the Langley. It would take a ton of photo-etch but I would be happy to handle that. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Ronnie Hiatt Subject: Re: Mission Capistrano >> I'd like to find another unbuilt kit and do it again, keeping in mind all the little mistakes and oversights...it could truly be a very striking model. << I will gladly trade you a Revell Mission Capistrano unbuilt kit! For either one of Revell's, Lionfish or Flasher or Growler, unbuilt kits! OR a Revell PT-109 or PT-117 unbuilt kit. Organization: Pacific Front Hobbies 1/200 Gato/Balao Submarines! "Not just Fleet Boats, Electric Boat Co. as well!" "NO ONE makes an EBco./Balao!" except: "1 scratchbuilder who deserves a medal!" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: JFK Slanted Stacks Dear Model Buffs, The Monogram kit called the Kitty Hawk is really a JFK slanted stacks and all. The kit is 1/800 scale. They really don't even know it. They probably could sell more with the JFK name on it. A little trivia here from one of my customers. The HIRYU and the SORYU were sister-ships with superstructures one on the starboard side and one on port side to enable planes to land together from each ship with out the superstructure getting in the way. shaya@erols.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Jeffrey Roberts" Subject: RE: Plastic Injection Ship Kits In Re: Bill Gruner's post regarding possible subjects for plastic ship kits: I'd PAY for kits of all of the following (all in 1/700 preferably): 1. any one of "The Big Five" battleships: USS California, USS Tennesee, USS Colorado, USS Maryland and USS West Virginia in their pre-war configuration 2. USS Houston (CA30) -- alternately her sister ship USS Chicago (CA29) 3. British County class heavy cruiser: HMS Berwick, Cornwall, Cumberland, Kent, Suffolk, and HMAS Australia and Canberra 4. New Orleans class heavy cruiser - especially San Francisco or Minneapolis 5. Brooklyn/St Louis class light cruiser - especially Helena or Boise or Honolulu 6. British prewar fleet destroyer E-F or G-H-I class -- some interesting ships in these classes and the kit would also be good for a variety of conversion projects. Thanks. Jeffrey Roberts P.S. The Big Five also get my vote for best looking ships... I loved those clipper bows and cagemasts when I was a kid...first runner up, the British Queen Elizabeth class battleships in their original configuation. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Thank you Hi all, Many many thanks to all of you who responded to my Deutchland requests. Very much appreciated. Keith Butterley ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "FERNANDO, YOHAN" Subject: Plastic Injection Ship Kit ideas etc In considering subjects for plastic kits, I would also include the earlier US Treaty Cruisers (Pensacola, Northampton, Portland classes). Within each class, using the same hull form and but with different superstructure and detail modifications, you could create models of each ship in the class portrayed at different periods (i.e. Northampton 1942, Louisville 1944). The Japanese Waterline consortium does this alot with the IJN destroyers and cruisers (look at the different versions of the Mogami or Fubuki classes are available). With the US ships, this would work even better considering the major changes many of these ships undertook between their commissioning and the end of WW2. People would be encouraged to buy many ships of a single class since there would be enough major changes to make the two (or three) models dissimilar. For the manufacturer, many of the larger basic componants would be the same between the two hence simplifying manufacturing. Only the detailing woudl differ. This works for most all USN cruisers and destroyers. I'm not sure how well auxiliary vessels will sell... Skywave's line includes some more well known subjects like the Cleveland and Gearing classes as well as more esoteric ships (tenders etc.) and I would guess that the well known ships sell better than the lesser ones. While I would like to see many 'second line' ships in 1/700 plastic, I wouldn't start a branch of business in such a small niche. Popular subjects are a good starting point. Whatever they decide to make kits of, I do hope that it works out. On a different note, my vote for 'best' looking ship is divided depending on how you define 'best looking'- Most beautiful/graceful- Atlanta class CLs (slender and symmetric) Most lethel/aggressive looking- Rebuilt California, Tennesee, W.Virginia (compact superstructure, gun barrels piled on top of each other and a clipper bow- you can't go wrong!) I also think the WW2 Kongos are awesome looking- I just can't find a word to describe why... (I don't think I'm the only one who loves those Japanese pagodas) I noticed no one thinks of any carriers as the best looking ship. That must be part of the 'battleship mystique' at play! Yohan Fernando ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Tom Claxton Subject: Pac Front Injected Kits Being older and with less dexterity than some I would like to see all the WW II types done in 1/350. I would dearly like a Essex Class Carrier, a Brooklyn Heavy Cruiser (I thought she did a great job as the Graf Spee in the movie). The resin kits in the WW II ships are too expensive for me to buy. Thanks Tom Claxton ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: John Philip Downing Subject: RE: Plastic Injection Ship Kits >> One of the bigger resin manufacturers is seriously investigating developing some plastic injection kits of naval subjects. These would be <> At this time, they do not wish to consider larger or more complex models. << I would suggest the British "R" class and the Warspite/QE class (in 1/700 of course). Five ships each, and even if they only did one of each class, people would buy more and convert, and maybe conversion kits would appear. I am suprised no one ever did a 1/700 Midway class. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: John Philip Downing Subject: Re: Midway Models >> I'am going to assume that you mean Midway Models in Leicester. They are still trading from one of the smallest shops I,ve ever seen. I was up there about 4 weeks ago and nearly had to climb over all sorts of goodies to get to the counter. Plenty of stuff for R/C and scale ships. Their address is Midway Models, 157 St Leonards Rd, Leicester, Leics, LE2 3BZ Tel: 0116 2701609 << Do they have any battleships in 1/200? I have a Nichimo Yamato, a Sterling Missouri, and an Eggelweiler? Bismarck. I would love to get a British ship to add to the collection. Esp. HMS Hood. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Steve Belanger Subject: RE: Best Looking Ships My vote would have to go for the modernized Tennessee class battleships (and also the similiar looking West Virginia.) I have always loved the sleek look of their profiles with the sharp clipper bow and compact and busy superstructure. A near second would have to be the beefier looking South Dakota class....then, maybe perhaps the Iowas. Steve Belanger US World War II Battleships and Battlecruisers http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/4289/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: YHSAIO@aol.com Subject: Re: Plastic Injection Ship Kits Per Bill Gruner's request concerning possible plastic ship kits, here's my 2 cents (or tuppence) worth on ships which should appear as injection model kits: 1/700 US Navy destroyers of the following types: 4-stackers, Mahan, Dunlap, Farragut, in short, pre-war USN destroyers. Also a 1/700 injected plastic Fletcher of better quality than the Skywave and Tamiya offerings 1/700 USS Wasp (CV-7) 1/700 USS Baltimore Any WW 2 Royal Navy carrier (Ark Royal, Illustrious/Victorious, Eagle, Colossus) in 1/350 and 1/700. The first two have been done but they are no more than pieces of plastic dung and are in serious need of replacement. "V" and "W" class destroyers in 1/350 and 1/700. Dunkerque and Strasbourg in 1/700. Royal Navy cruisers (heavy and light) in 1/700 scale. Of course, if WEM does them in resin first, I'll buy theirs! I can't think of any more ships at this time, but maybe Bill Gruner's suggestion may enable us to see more of our favorite subjects in the near future. Yunchi Hsaio ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: William Swan Subject: Re: Plastic Injection Ship Kits With regard to Bill Gruner’s request for feedback on the injection molded models wanted: I think without question the US Pre WW2 battleships would sell very well. This would be especially so if they were made as a two in one kit, that is, parts for the version at Pearl Harbor or before major refit along with the parts to create the totally refitted ship later in the war. I could see myself easily buying at least two of each kit for the refit never mind different paint schemes!!!!!!!! Bill’s idea for the cruisers is right on target too! I know I would also like the other European battleships of WW2 in injection in 1/700 but there is no doubt in my mind that Bill’s choices would be GOOD sellers. William Swan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Paolo Pizzi Subject: IJN grays From: SantMin@aol.com: >> In each band of gray it says "Maizuru Navy Yard", "Kure Navy Yard", "Yokosuka Navy Yard". and "Sasebo Navy Yard", each band getting a darker gray. I am told that you could tell where a ship was painted by this color scheme. Anyone know about this? << True if you want to show the ship as built: different yards had different grays, ranging from medium gray with an obvious green tinge to almost "panzer" gray. Of course ships weren't always repainted in the same yard (especially during the war) and there goes the "original" gray. In places like Truk (where Yamato and Musashi spent over a year) there is no way to know what kind of gray they had, probably they'd mix whatever stock they had at hand, especially in the last years of the war where the simple fact of getting some supplies was a miracle. Paolo Pizzi http://navismagazine.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Sue & Ben Subject: Re: Best looking ship class Ken Hamilton wrote: >> Iowa looks so generic. << That's only because the have been in service for so long for the world's most powerful (and therefore much in the camera's eye) navy. Pictures of them abound. All warships have 'national' traits which make them, wittingly or unwittingly, recognisable as such (ie German ships look 'german', Italian ships look 'italian', etc...). But I think there's nothing quite so easily identifiable as an Iowa class ship. Cheers Ben Montreal, Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Sue & Ben Subject: Re: New Mexico Another Ken wrote: >> P.S. I'd have to put in a "Best Looking Ship" vote for 1) Fletchers and 2) Z->Boats. Although I agree, those Iowas are powerful good lookin'. What class was the "New Mexico" and where can I see a pic? << New Mexico was of the (tada!) New Mexico class. :-) But seriuosly. It was class ship of a three ship class which itself was part of the so-called 'standard type' group of seven ships, all part of the ship programs of 1912 to 1917, all armed with 14in naval rifles. As for sites, I don't know. There was a nice one for U.S. BBs but it doesn't respond anymore. Hopefully, someone else will field that part of the answer! Cheers Ben Montreal, Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22 From: Vimieraa@aol.com Subject: Re: best looking ships The best looking ships were no doubt the Mimi and Toutou. If anybody is interested, there is no point in looking up the names in J.J.Colledge, but I would refer to Lake Tanganyika, December 1915 and possibly the most effective use of naval surface craft in the history of 20th century naval warfare. If anybody disagrees with me I would like to know why. I shall now hold myself in readiness for any replies. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: BChaucer@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: future injection molded kits >> One of the bigger resin manufacturers is seriously investigating developing some plastic injection kits of naval subjects. These would be high quality kits with photoetch included. I have suggested that they consider, because of the absolute necessity to produce models that would sell very well, the following: << >> 2. US Navy Pre/Early WW 2 Battleships in 1/700 scale << NO NO 1/350 scale, not 1/700, or both. Lets also hear it for pre WWI! >> 3. US Navy WW 2 Light and Heavy Cruisers in 1/700 scale, most likely New Orleans and Brooklyn/St.Louis classes. << Again, also 1/350 scale >> 4. I also think a series of high quality submarines in 1/350 or 1/200 scale might do very well, for instance, a Gato/Balao, pre-Gato classes, "V" boats Nautilus & Narwhal, an S boat, German Type VII, etc. << Yes, and some WWI or earlier subjects. Also how about an LCAC type hovercraft in a reasonable scale. I like to try to keep a similar scale where ever possible so that relative size differences between subjects is aparent, however there are exceptions, both for smaller subjects - a 1/350 scale PT boat would IMHO be pointless, or to match other subjects. Landing craft comes to mind. In smaller scales, they should adhere to scales already established for armor, i.e. 1/87 scale (HO) or 1/76 scale. There are a lot of suitanle armor subjects in those scales to allow a modeler to model the landing craft or ship in loaded condition or to create beachfront dioramas. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Lisa & Frank Allen" Subject: How does the new Tamiya 1/700 Yamato (!) look? Greetings from model ship barren Colorado Springs! Sorry folks, but I need to bring up the "Y" word once again! Has anyone had the chance to take a good look at the "new" Tamiya 1/700 scale Yamato (or Musashi)? What has Tamiya done to improve over the original? The original variant was to say the least, "toy-like" and lacking many details (i.e.: lack of bow fairleads, misplaced forward breakwater, poorly shaped bridge and rear superstructure, misshaped lifeboat/launch bays, lack of rear fairleads, bad guns, directors, mast, the list goes on...). Thanks! Frank Allen Colorado Springs, CO (a model aircraft town to say the least....dangit!) And no, I don't know Cartman.... Does anyone have any photos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: ASHough@aol.com Subject: Re: David MacGregor Plans From their latest catalogue 12 Upper Oldfield Park, Bath, BA2 3JZ 01225 315623 HTH Andrew ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Immgb@aol.com Subject: USS Hollister I am interested in finding photos of the USS Hollister. I am preparing to build a model for my father who served on the USS Hollister in the early 1960s. I want to be sure to get it accurately represented as this will be a surprise. Can you give me information where to go to get this information? Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Ian Wilkins Subject: Best looking ship My votes for best looking warships definitely go to British Battlecruisers Hood (surprise), Lion class, the Renown and Repulse, and the Courageous class. These vessels were unmatched for their grace of line and elegant balanced profiles. The Iowas like all US heavy ships suffered from poorly drawn sheer lines and ungainly tumblehome topsides which make them look awkward rather than graceful. As far as liners go I think Berengaria (ex Imperator) was the finest looking ship of her time. I'll also throw in a vote for Mauretania (1939, the second one). Ian Wilkins ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Russian subs (Kilo class) Since we seem to have a run on the Typhoon class of Russian sub models, I thought I would bring up the Kilo class, as I understand that this modern Russian diesel submarine is also about to be brought out as a model. I believe it is either Revell (Germany) or DML, but there is a model scheduled for release soon. It will be interesting to see if the latest technical information will be represented in this model. It turns out that recent pictures of a Kilo in drydock reveal that it does not have a conventional propeller. Instead, it posesses an unusual pumpjet configuration on the tail. If you would like to see this photo, visit the following website: http://www.invet.obninsk.ru/nether/navy/subs.html There is an alphabetical listing of Russian subs; scroll down to Kilo and look at photo # 6. Quite an eyeful! Further down you will find three good shots of Typhoon (spelled Tyfoon), but, unfortunately no drydock shots to resolve our recent questions on catamaran hulls. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Injection ship models from resin manufacturer >> I also think a series of high quality submarines in 1/350 or 1/200 scale might do very well, for instance, a Gato/Balao, pre-Gato classes, "V" boats Nautilus & Narwhal, an S boat, German Type VII, etc. << Yeah, Bill!! I would love to see some high quality styrene subs in larger scale, such as 1:200. The 1:350 submarine market is very well represented in resin, thanks to Mike Bishop of Blue Water Navy and Tom Harrison, of Tom's Modelworks. I would love to see some of these done in larger scale, preferably in styrene, but, heck I'll take resin. As long as we're dreaming, some of the semi- experimental 50's postwar submarines were interesting and have never been done. Say a Triton, Skate, Seawolf (SSN 575), Grayback/Growler and Albacore. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Best Looking Ship Class Definitely has to be the Iowas, big, bad, and beautiful. The Bismarck would also have to be up there near top of my list. Mike Settle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: Graham Holmes Subject: Best Looking Ships Here are a few candidates, as yet unmentioned: Warships Montcalm (WWII) HMS Sheffield (WWII) Liners SS Canberra HMY Brittania Others HMS Hecate/Hydra Oceanographic survey vessels of the 60/70s. These were odd ships, but I thing they were quite pretty. Very well proportioned. After all, in the eye of the beholder..... Graham Holmes ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: Graham Holmes Subject: What ship is that? A tough for you all. In the Raven & Roberts British Battleships of WWII, on page 412 there are two pictures of the Richelieu at Trincomalee in 1944. In the lower one, there is a KGV class BB in the background. Does anyone know which one of the class this one is? Graham Holmes ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Jeanne D'Arc The cruiser Jeanne D'Arc of the First World War period was an armoured cruiser built around the turn of the century. She served as a training ship until replaced by a light cruiser specially built for the purpose, and commissioned in 1931. This cruiser, also named Jeanne D'Arc, was a two-funneled, 6,500 ton ship mounting eight 6.1 in. guns. In 1940, she was in Martinique, when France surrendered, and remained there until after Vichy fell. Incorporated in the FLFN, she served throughout WW II and then continued in service until replaced by the current ship, also specially designed, which is the helicopter carrying vessel that Ken has bought a model of. I don't know if models of this ship are available in larger scales, but at least two models of the WW II ship are available in 1:1250 scale, and models of the modern ship are also available in 1250 scale Paul Jacobs 1250 Editor http://warship.simplenet.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34) From: Michael Kear Subject: Re: Larger Scales - AFP Models >> Sorry about that, just showing my Western Hemespheric bias, I guess Do redeem myself, I will visit your site forthwith! << Thank you. And don't forget to leave your credit card number so I can charge all my household bills to you. I'm getting sick of paying them all myself. Would it be ok if you took care of my phone bill and the power for me? I'll stick someone else for the car repairs. This is a new technique I'm trying to save on the amount of time I have to work to earn a living, so I can concentrate more of my time on building models. My goal is to get all my expenses covered by other mugs ... ah ... people, then I can spend all my time making models and won't have to work at all. Much better use of my time I'd have thought. Fair winds and following seas, Mike Kear, ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35) From: Stuart Robottom Subject: Best looking ship award It seems that everyone is leaving out one of the best looking designs of warship this century. Has anyone considered the Tribal class destroyers? Now, their strength/armament etc have been discussed at length, but their appearence, especially HMShips Mohawk and Cossack, left nothing to be desired. It is just a pity so many were lost, and that Australia only built the three of them. One of these days I will go and visit the Haida! Stuart Robottom ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36) From: Burl Burlingame / Pacific Monograph Subject: Typhoon hulls Aack! My info on Typhoons is almost TWO years old, and is obviously outdated. Bottom line tho -- the DML kit is seriously compromised. I collected info originally because I thought about doing an accurizing kit for the DML model, but quickly discovered you'd have to replace nearly everything. Mr. Baker's analysis sounds good, although I thought Akula and Typhoon were different classes; hunters and boomers. Burl Burl Burlingame Pacific Monograph, 1124 Kahili Street, Kailua HI 96734 A historical interpretation company. Visit our web site at http://www.PacificHistory.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37) From: lfmartins@mail.telepac.pt (Luis Fernando Martins) Subject: Wooden ship diorama. I am about to finish my first wooden ship. It's the "Prince de Neufchatel" from Constructo. Being a large ship (1:58 40"x25"x15") I think it would be a bad choice to let it stay all alone just sitting on its base. So I decide to make my first diorama. For that I need several items to make it and the main one would be sailors and people to make it a "live" diorama. The main problem here is that all that I find are from WWI or WW2. Because this ship fought battles in 1812, I need figures that would fit in that time. Anyone know of a good resource for them? Preferably from Europe (I am from Portugal) but not mandatory. Thanks in advance for your help. PS Sorry for my "Inglish". Luis Fernando Martins, Gueifaes, Portugal ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38) From: John Clements Subject: Jeanne d'Arc I guess we've all looked in the same books so this is proably just going to duplicate someone else's answer, but my reading is that the Heller model is the 1964 ship which replaced the 1931 completed ship pictured in Preston's book, which carried on the name from the 1897 cruiser. Like the RN, the french seem to have a tradition of continuing names which are meaningful to them, as most of their pre-WW2 cruiser names have also survived. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume