Subject: SMML12/08/98VOL269 Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:41:01 +1000 (EST) shipmodels@wr.com.au --------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://warship.simplenet.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: RMS Titanic Etched Parts 2: CB-1 USS Alaska 3: Building Articles/Books 4: CB-1 USS Alaska 5: Re: Waterlineing full hulled models 6: Gel Medium / Aussie Modellers 7: Fletchers... 8: Re: Favorite reference 9: Re; Wish List for Model Kits 10: USS Portland CA-33, Aircraft carried 11: Painting parties... 12: Dragon Vs. Shanghai Dragon 13: Favorite Referece 14: Re: Waterlining Plastic Ship Models..... 15: Plastic Injection Ship Kits 16: Re: Full hull to waterline. 17: Ship Wish List 18: Waterlining full hull models 19: Contacting the Canadian Archives 20: DML's Big Ohio 21: Re: Mystery Photos. 22: Re Winslow 23: Re: CGN Models 24: Re: PORTLAND aircraft 25: Aircraft assignments - USS PORTLAND 26: Re: Mystery Photos. 27: Prett/Ugly/Wanted Ship choices - Scale???? 28: AWN Photographic database 29: Re: USS Portland, Aircraft Query. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: DKrakow105@aol.com Subject: RMS Titanic Etched Parts Just got two sets of GMM "plus" etched parts for the 1:350th Titanic, which include benches, lifeboat tie downs, skylights, crane booms, etc. They look superb and are well worth the price. In my opinion, the only Titanic aftermarket parts base not yet covered are the window frames. I think the molded-on window frames look really horrible and would ruin the effect of interior lighting. Does anyone make a set of etched window frames for this kit? Are you listening Mr. Perry?? Dave Krakow ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: CB-1 USS Alaska Jens H. Brandal wrote: >> I stumbled across a kit from a Czech resin manufacturer called Samek Models of the USS Alaska in 1:700. I'm not an expert on the Alaskas, so I don't know how well it measures up to scale accuracy, but the moulding quality is absolutely first class. True, there are a few air bubbles, and some of the gun shields on the main deck (or whatever they're called in real life) suffer, but the two vents on the funnel are perfectly shaped - and they're less than half a millimetre in diameter! The kit does come with photoetched brass (by Eduard) for the anchors, chains, cranes, catapults, radars and 20mm guns, but no railings or stairs. The only things you will have to make yourself are the secondary armament gun barrels and some masts, but they are shown full size on the assembly drawing that reminds me of building Airfix' Tirpitz and Bismarck 25 years ago - same style without the words. << This kit is a very accurate kit, and well worth the money you spend. I've scratchbuilt a couple of these in the past few years, and the parts that I saw at the IPMS nats reflected the plans that I've used and seen. Overall, two thumbs up. >> Anyway, the instructions also include a painting plan depicting the Alaska in 1944 for both sides and the top, and that puzzles me: I thought there were three tones to the dazzle pattern and not two; Haze Grey and Dull Black (apparently a very dark grey). The middle of the deck is given as deck tan - weren't the decks painted in the dazzle pattern as well? << There were many camo schemes that only utilized two colors, especially when dealing with destroyers. Some of these DD schemes were modified and applied to larger ships (USS Essex is a prime example of this), and others were designed specifically for the ship. Alaska and Guam carried two color schemes, but only after commissioning. Once they were deployed to the Pacific, they were repainted in Ms. 22. You're right about the deck tan being wrong too. That area should be Deck Blue 20-B. Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: CA139JOHNF@aol.com Subject: Building Articles/Books List members, I'm hoping someone out there can point me in the direction of either an article or book that covers the basics of working with resin ship model kits. Need information working with resin, photoetch, painting, etc. Thanks, John Frohock USNSM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: DaveRiley1@aol.com Subject: CB-1 USS Alaska Jens Brandall wrote: >> I stumbled across a kit from a Czech resin manufacturer called Samek Models of the USS Alaska in 1:700 << You just can't make a statement like that without more explanation . There are a lot of folks out here who want one of those kits, so ...... where in the heck did you "stumble" onto a Samek Alaska kit ??? Dave Riley Portsmouth, RI - USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Waterlineing full hulled models >> What is your favorite method for waterlining full hull kits. << I've waterlined (a new word?) several of the Tamiya 1/350 ships with great success. I use a Dremel power tool with a circular saw blade to cut just below the waterline boot. I know Dremel doesn't make the saw blade anymore, but I've seen circular blades from other manufacturers. If you can't get a saw blade, a cutting disk with the Dremel at high speed with go through a plastic hull like a hot knoife through butter. If you make the water from Gel Medium or Sculpey it covers up any rough edges. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From : Greg Lee (Listmaster - SMML) Subject : Gel Medium / Aussie Modellers Hi All, This question goes to the Australian readers: Do we have an equivalent to Gel Medium for modelling water here? Is somebody bringing it in? Thanks Greg (Listmaster/Lustmaster) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Fletchers... >> There is the Lindberg "Blue Devil Destroyer" at 1/125 but the kit is so bad that I wouldn't wish it on anybody but Jeff Herne ;) (He actually built one). << Thanks Duane, How about some salt for the wounds, hmmm? The Lindberg kit is ok if you're interested in sticking something on the shelf that resembles a Fletcher. If you enjoy pain and suffering (and you're not married) pick it up and give it a try....but take these bits as friendly advice; 1. Your wife/children will hear you utter words that would make a Marine Gunnery Sargeant blush. 2. You will have an undesirable urge to kick the dog/cat 3. You will suffer from the stresses of throwing 85% of the kit away 4. You will eventually give up ship modeling altogether and take up NASCAR modeling. (incoming rounds from the good 'ol 'boys) 5. When it finally, if ever, does get completed, some moron will dissect it at a model show...your bridge is .005 of an inch too far forward... Bleeding from my wounds, Jeff Herne ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Vimieraa@aol.com Subject: Re: Favorite reference I would very much like some references for the Trinidad, specifically the following: i. A w/t rig plan ii. The number and precise location of the single 20mm mountings that were fitted at the time of sinking I am using the "as fitted " set of the Jamaica along with a large number of photos of Jamaica, Nigeria, Mauritius,Gambia and Fiji, but still need the above two items. This in response to favorite reference. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: ECammeron@aol.com Subject: Re; Wish List for Model Kits In 1:350, it would be nice to see an INDEPENDENCE CVL to go along with the 1:350 ESSEX. Also, lets hope we don't have a twenty year interval between the release of one and the release of the other. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Duane W. Christensen" Subject: USS Portland CA-33, Aircraft carried Hi Jim, The aircraft carried by US cruisers during the 1940 to 1942 period were Curtiss SOC "Seagulls". Most US cruisers (except Omaha and Pensacola classes) had hangers to protect these fabric covered biplanes, whereas battleships did not. So the metal covered Kingfishers went to the BBs. Also the Seagulls had folding wings to facilitate stowage and Kingfisher lacked this feature. Hasagawa makes a nice 1/72 Seagull (when you can find one!) Duane Boise, ID. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Steven Rogers Subject: Painting parties... Everyone has a method, here's mine... One reader inquired about airbrush compressors, I use CO2 with a regulator. Tanks can be purchased at your local fire extinguisher supply and regulators at an art supply or welder's supply. Total cost around $150. The CO2 is always dry and compatible with all types of paint. At least 6 large models (ie,1/350) can be done, including constant airbrush cleaning. Refills are about $15. Advantage? Very quite! To prevent interruptions, I have two, 20lb tanks. I mask everything, painting decks first. The exception being vertical round surfaces (barbettes) intersecting the deck. Paint these structures first, mask, then deck surfaces, mask and paint the remaining areas. Recommend the blue 3M low residue tape. Has anyone tried shadow painting? Armor buffs swear by it. First prime in neutral gray. Outline panels and seams in a thin fogged band of black or dark grey. Using Post-it notes as masks the shadow has a sharp edge on one side if desired. Now make a thin final pass in the finish color, the variations are subtle but add depth. Finish with pastels and dry brushing as required. Does 1/350 require any special adaption of this method? Ideas are welcome... Speaking of shadows...Can anyone address the issue of what scheme the So. Dakota was sporting during the Kirishima encounter? Also, is (or can) the BWN kit (be) configured to 1942? One inch AA vs 40mm bofors, radar,etc. Lastly, there was a comment about no CVs in the "Fairest" debate. My take is CVs are "magnificent" while BBs are "splendid". Language being in the ear of the beholder. Regards, Stephen Rogers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Dragon Vs. Shanghai Dragon Hello All, I have noticed that prices on model ships were dropping at some of the stores in my area. A worthy trend, in my opinion.... At any rate, when I examined the boxes more closely, I noticed that instead of Dragon it said Shanghai Dragon. Looking at the built up model on the side, it appeared to be identical with the "regular" Dragon, at 1/2 or less the price - Sprucan for $13, etc. Are these the same tools? Anyone know any details, future releases, etc? Thanks! Kurt SeaPhoto ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Favorite Referece >> Now to start a new thread. What's your favorite reference(apart from SMML of course) for your favorite ship. On the other hand what ship would you like references for & what would it contain? << Well, um..... modesty prevents me from pointing out my favorite reference, save to say that a lot of good overhead pictures have helped with the building of my John Paul Jones (DDG-53).... Kurt SeaPhoto Maritime Photography ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Michelle Roth" Subject: Re: Waterlining Plastic Ship Models..... >> What is your favorite method for waterlining full hull kits. << Hello Shane I have waterlined at least 45 plastic ship models with this method and find it to be quick, easy and effective for all scales...1/1200th to 1/350th.... The only problem is not all of us will have access to a bandsaw....but if you do or can afford one of those little three wheeled ones the are a very handy item... Regardless..I find with a fine blade, (one with as many teeth per inch as possible) cuts a nice fine line through the plastic. Do not push too fast or you tend to melt the plastic. The waterlines are usually marked on the side of the hull....just follow the line with the bandsaw about 1/16"-1/32" below the waterline mark so you have a little room for error. You can easily clean up the plastic after with a file. I cut each half separately before gluing them together. BE REAL CAREFUL WITH YOUR FINGERS, AS A BANDSAW HAS NO FORGIVENESS FOR MISTAKES!!!!! Then you glue the two halves of the hull together. You can also glue the deck(s) to the top of the hull now if you like. This strengthens the hull structure for the next step. Now, I have a piece of 1"x 4" pine (plywood would do) with sand paper wrapped around it and stapled on the edges that I lay flat on the workbench. The grit of the sandpaper is your choice, but I find 180/200/220 about right. Lay the hull on this and sand away....being careful to maintain level, even pressure on the entire hull. It's easy to take a little too much off at either end or too much off the centre, so be careful and take your time. Use the waterline scribe mark as your guide. Adjust the amount of hull left on below this line to suite your individual model. (Such as fuel line thickness, etc.) Models that are waterlined tend to "curl up" at the bow and stern. If you mount them to a board permanently, you can glue a plastic piece in at each end and screw the bow and stern down from below with small woodsrews. Hope this helps. Give it a try, I think you will be pleased with the results. It also works with resin kits and also for one piece hulls, such as the old Revell flat bottoms, etc. A little bit trickier cutting, but certainly doable. Good luck! Eric Roth Minden, Ontario, CANADA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Roberto Paredes" Subject: Plastic Injection Ship Kits Please, don't forget the next ships: 1/700 USS Brooklyn 1/700 USS Helena 1/700 USS Baltimore 1/700 USS Midway (50's and 70's) 1/700 USS Long Beach 1/700 USS California 1/700 USS Truxtun 1/700 USS LPH xx 1/700 USS LPD xx 1/700 HMS Venerable ('25 de Mayo' argentinian carrier) Dunkerque and Strasbourg in 1/700. Good luck...... Roberto. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Mr J Owen" Subject: Re: Full hull to waterline. This sounds weird but I assure you it works: 1. Assemble the full hull. 2. Drill a large hole in the bottom of the hull. 3. Fill the hull completely with plaster or even better, dental plaster, this makes a completely solid hull, like that on a resin model. Let it dry for ages. 4. FIx the deck to a wooden guide, it is a good idea to screw through the turret mountings so the holes are easier to hide. 5. Measure down from the top of the wooden guide to the waterline and cut on a bandsaw or jigsaw keeping the wooden guide up against the saw guide whilst using the finest blade and slowest speed possible. Do not try to cut at a high speed as this can melt the plastic of the hull. If all works well you end up with a very solid, level waterline hull. Good luck, Jim Owen, (UK) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Graham Holmes Subject: Ship Wish List Can't miss the chance to vote for my choices: 1/700 Any QE class, Town class CL Colony class CL Tribal DD Colossus class CV Tennessee/West Virginia/Nevada etc Baltimore CA San Francisco CA Richelieu Vittorio Veneto Montcalm La Gloire 1/350 Illustrious Essex Warspite Baltimore The above are not necessarily my favourites, but I would buy any of them, and after all isn't that whats important. BTW, I will still buy the resin kits as well, I just can't afford so many. Graham Holmes ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Waterlining full hull models I usually start with a .38 special... oh, wait, that's kneecaping, not waterlining. For waterlinging, I scribe to outside of the hull and then use a modified hack saw. If I am cutting an injection kit, I brace the hull first with rods to keep the correct shape. I have never cut a resin kit but I would make sure that the cut lines are straight on both sides first and then be careful to follow them. In either case I would do it by hand for better control. You can also do a "deep" base and hide the bottom hull below the water line. Regards, Duane Fowler ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Mark Kwasnycia Subject: Contacting the Canadian Archives >> Am trying to obtain a detailed set of offical plans of any one of the following four Tribal class ships as they appeared in ww two: (i) Athabaskan (ii) Haida (iii) Huron (iv) Iroquois I understand that the Canadian Archives holds ship plans but so far I have been unable to make contact with them. Can anybody help? << You can contact the archives with an E-mail research request at the following address: http://www.archives.ca/www/svcs/english/Research.html Hopefully, this isn't a route you've already taken! I do know that a majority of the archived material is being moved to a new storage location - and this is making research requests harder to action, as various sections are packaged up for transportation to the new location. (I asked for HMCS Uganda plans a year ago, and was told by a friend that works there to do something unmentionable to myself! He bought me a beer instead!) A second suggestion is to contact the Directorate of History, at NDHQ, but most of the plans for that time frame have already been sent to the archives... but it can't hurt to ask! In desperation, you could try contacting the people that maintain the Haida memorial in Toronto; They may be able to help, and may even be able to add a few interesting stories. Best of luck, Mark Kwasnycia Ottawa ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Ed Grune Subject: DML's Big Ohio Lawrence: DML's big Ohio is pretty close to length & diameter. At 560 feet that scales to a bit over 19.1 inches. How the Navy can call anything that big a boat is beyond me, but they're known as boats. I have one of the early moldings, with groooves every half inch or so. These were the attempt to indicate Electric Boat's method of building the real thing. They built the Ohio class one segment at a time in jigs. The jigs hold everything in exact circular alignment. At a seminar which I attended, the EB speaker said that they could obtain +/- 0.125 inch in accuracy frame-to-frame. That's only part of the quieting. Anyway, if your Ohio has the grooves, fill them in. Also do something about the molded walkway texturing. There are no detail kits for the Ohio, except for a set of brass propellor blades available from Flagship Models. Replace the prop blades with these. The kit ones are wrong. Externally, go to your photo sources for the masts & projections. They're pretty-much right. You could add a snorkel as a projection at the aft end of the sail. Check your photos if you're opening crew stations on the sail. Proceedings of the US Naval Institute probably has the best photos I've seen. Keep the BST-1 emergency submarine locating beacons on the forward/starboard and aft/port locations. These are the rectangles with smaller rectangles inside. Fill in the others. On the pre-CSA MK 2 boats (before SSBN-737 I think) there were eight five-inch countermeasures - 4 on a side. These are the molded circles inside the rectangles aft of the sail. Drill them out and fill in the rectangles. Post-CSA MK 2 boats have 14 6 inch CMs. The other 6 are located aft on the missile deck. Add to that the 3-inch signal ejector. Drill a pair of holes (over/under) on the starboard side between the last missile tube and the #2 hatchway. Drill the bottom one about a cm above the hull-half seams. As far as the underside details, the reactor gozins & gozouts, and the ballast tank openings, there's not much you can do unless you have access to a set of Ships Manuals. As far as a paint scheme, US subs are a dull black with some blue on the topside. The walkways should be a bit greyer black. The underside is a topic of discussion - and I'm sure I'll ignites some here. I've seen photos of hull red from the waterline, as well as hull red from the mid-line of the tube. Decals - names and numbers arn't used on operational boats. After the builder's photos are taken, the numbers are painted over. If there's a dress-up occasion the boat's hull number is applied with magnetic numbers. Use the DSRV targets and the draft marks. The splotched mast decals are okay, but you might want to look at painting them instead. They should be a litle more blue than grey. Weather a little grey into the safety rail track. Add in silver for the ballast tank vents any your done. Hope this helps. Ed ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: RE: Mystery Photos. Thanks Paolo for your bet. My bet is that the photo was taken in China also, since several Japanese ships are picured in the same locale, and the YUBARI with the junk in the photo makes a good bet. But I need positive confirmation. I am sure that it must exist somewhere. According to the MARINES EDITION book LAMOTTE PICQUET did make some port visits to Manila, and may have been there on the date listed in the one photo. Of course, they could have assumed the date by assuming that the photo was taken in Manila, and then found out the date she was there. Paul Jacobs ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Ed Grune Subject: Re Winslow Tom : Thanks for the kind words about my Winslow. I showed it to Mike West of Lonestar Models and he appreciated seeing it. He said that it made him feel good that someone could finish the kit(s) he started. Let me acknowledge your Type IX U-Boat. Was it a Nichimo? It was done very well. The weathering was done very subtly, just enough to show that there was something else there. It deservedly took first in the larger scale ships. Congratulations. Let me throw another bucket of gas on the Viking product-line fire. While I was talking with Mike West, I overheard a snippet of a conversation from the Viking table. I'm not sure if it was Dan Joplin or one of his colleagues. They mentioned the Texas ... "known as the San Marcos". Please, if you're considering a pre-dreadnaut, make it so. Ed ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "mike.leonard" Subject: Re: CGN Models >> Does anybody know of any models of ANY USN CGNs? << Revell Long Beach - 1/500 scale - injected plastic. Ancient kit, may now be out of production. Revell of Germany used to produce. About $12 US. Aurora Bainbridge - 1/600 scale - injected plastic. Also very old and long out of production. Shows up from time to time at the "eBay" on-line auction site. Sells for around $25-40 US. Waveline California - 1/700 scale - resin. Pacific Front Hobby listed it for about $80 US. >> This is a long shot, especially considering I live near what Jerry Seinfeld refers to as the anus of the world. << That must make you a fellow New Yorker! (Only kidding.) MWL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: PORTLAND aircraft Between 1940 and 1942 PORTLAND, and other US cruisers carried SOC "Seagull" floatplanes. Paul Jacobs ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: dhjonespsm@juno.com (Daniel H. Jones Subject: Aircraft assignments - USS PORTLAND Mr. Owen writes: >> Have any contributors to SMML accurate information on the type of aircraft carried by USS Portland from 1940 onwards but particularly in 1942? Can anyone say with certainty whether or not one or two aircraft would have been carried? I have very little printed information on US aircraft so a name, e.g. 'Kingfisher' would be useful as well as an alpha-numeric designation if possible. << Aircraft assignments - USS PORTLAND 1939-1942 (April) four SOC-1 aircraft (Curtiss Seagull) were assigned. In 1942 one SOC-1 was lost, replaced with an SOC-2. By mid 1943 PORTLAND carried two SOC-2 aircraft. In 1944 three SOC-2's, one SOC-1 were asigned. In 1944-1945 one SOC-2 and one SOC-3 were carried. The PORTLAND never operated Kingfishers. SOC-1, SOC-2, & SOC-3 aircraft looked very much alike. The SOC was a conventioal biplane capable of being operated on floats or wheels. 135 SOC-1's were built, 40 SOC-2's, and 83 SOC-3's. Intended to be replaced with a monoplane, the SOC replacement design did not prove sucessful, and the SOC continued to serve many cruiser aircraft squadrons until the end of the war, including VCS-4 on PORTLAND. Dan Jones ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: dhjonespsm@juno.com (Daniel H. Jones) Subject: Re: Mystery Photos. >> And while I'm writing, does anyone know where the DE that used to be with the Intrepid was moved to? Last time I was there (2 years ago), it was being restored and I was looking forward to seeing how it came out. << The DE USS SLATER, formerly of the Hellenic Navy, has been towed up the Hudson to the Port of Albany, where restoration is to continue. Paul Jacobs wrote; >> the background. One has large lettering on it which says GENERAL MOTORS, CHINA, INC. Another has lettering that says HOLT'S WHARF. I am trying to determine what port this is. << Paolo Pizzi wrote: >> I would guess Hong Kong. etc. << I believe the location is the riverfront at Shanghai. This G. M. factory appears in many photos taken between the wars, particularly of IJN ships. Port visits in China allowed opportunities for US Naval attaches to take photos of Japanese ships not otherwise accessible. ONI manuals have several views of cruisers, destroyers, etc, with the General Motors China plant in the background. Holt's Wharf is the facility of Alfred Holt & Company - otherwise known as the Blue Funnel Line. Alfred Holt & Co. purchased land on the riverfront at Pootung, Shanghai, in 1906, building their own wharfs in response to rising costs of using other facilities, and also to secure their own position in the area. They also built similar facilities at Kowloon (Hong Kong) and at Hankow, however this appears to be the one at Shanghai. Dan Jones ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Prett/Ugly/Wanted Ship choices - Scale???? Hi all, Prettiest ships: HMS Hood KM Scharnhorst/Gneisnau Ugliest ships: Corvettes (sigh- and I am a Canadian) RN "C" & "D" class cruisers- now thats UGLY Most wanted : RN cruisers any class- but not the above mentioned ;-) Most wanted but will never make the injection moulded market: KM CLs - I mean don't you just love those offset turrets Actually this brings me to a scale problem. Granted the market is primarily is 700 aand 350. I love the variety in 700 but my eyesight and fat fingers have a real problem with that scale. 350 generally is just to BIG. Wouldn't it be nice if Airfix would really put some effort into their 600 scale line. I have all three scales on the shelves above me. I have found that 600 is far and away for me, is just the easiest to work with and they don't take up a lot of room. Anybody else like to jump in here with a comment? Keith Butterley PS: Believe it or not I just got my hands on a Frog (remember them) 500 scale HMS Royal Sovereign. It is unbuilt and intact. I don't know whether to build it or turn it into a shrine :-) Bet there ain't no PE for this puppy. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins Subject: AWN Photographic database Hi all, Whilst browsing thru the WW1 digest, I came across an interesting post concerning the Australian War Museum photographic database from Shane Weir, which I'll put down below. Of course for SMMLer's, just put in a naval reference & you'll be on your way!!! There are also a couple of points which may not be to everyone's satisfaction: 1) The thumbnails at the moment cannot be enlarged. I think this is due to budgetary constraints. 2) You need to accept a cookie for the search to work. I think you can also order the prints, but I was too busy looking thru the site to look into that. Repost from Shane Weir WW1 digest >> Hi folks, In a frantic search for more information on the accursed Biff (or rather the one with The Little Tramp on it) I turned to the Australian War memorial's online database. It occurs to me that many in the list might not be aware that the AWM has one of the worlds largest collections of militaria, or that they also have a large chunk of their photo archive available and searchable on the net. Turning to the search and asking for aircraft ww1 records with images ..and making no further effort to pare down the list gets 19,115 hits. That's one hell of a lot of photographs to go tramping through. Anyone who's interested should point their browser at: http://www.awm.gov.au and follow the path to the searchable index Have fun Shane << (what a great name: sorry couldn't resist) The url for the database is http://www.awm.gov.au/awm_search/photo.asp that is if you don't want to browse around Australia's best military museum first :-) All the best: Shane Jenkins ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: James Corley Subject: Re: USS Portland, Aircraft Query. >> Have any contributors to SMML accurate information on the type of aircraft carried by USS Portland from 1940 onwards but particularly in 1942? Can anyone say with certainty whether or not one or two aircraft would have been carried? I have very little printed information on US aircraft so a name, e.g. 'Kingfisher' would be useful as well as an alpha-numeric designation if possible. << According to "US Navy Aircraft 1921-1941," PROTLAND was assigned 3 SOC-1 and 1 SOC-2 on 31 DEC, 41. A photo in "American Cruisers of WW2" shows an SOC on the stbd catapult, and the photo is credited to Leyte in OCT44. I would imagine the PORTLAND, like many of the older CAs, kept her original spotting force of SOCs for the duration of the war. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume