Subject: SMML11/09/98VOL299 Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 19:27:51 +1000 (EST) shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Airfix Vote Update 2: Re: Dry Transfer cost 3: Re: Yamato URL 4: Pit Road Thinner 5: Re: Tamiya 1/350th Battleship Models 6: Re: CV-42 USS Roosevelt 7: Tamiya Fletcher Chocks 8: IJN Carriers 9: Re: USS Roosevelt, CV-42 10: Tamiya 1/350th Battleship Models 11: Q: Resin casting, and mold release for scratchbuild headache reduction 12: Re: BUCKLEY-class DE 13: Re: USS Missouri rigging 14: Missouri Rigging, Decal Printers, and Acetone 15: BOOKS FOR MODELLERS 16: Re: Kirov Kit 17: Re: Missouri Rigging 18: Re: Scharnhorst camouflage scheme. 19: Mating Upper and Lower Hull of BWN 1/350 USS Houston, 1941 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: WEM webpage Updates and New Releases 2: Plastic Ship Modeler magazine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins Subject: Re: Airfix Vote Update Felix wrote: >> Just wanted to give all a quick update on the voting << Hi Felix & Keith, I've read with interest the Airfix vote thread & would like to make a couple of observations. I don't think you'll have much chance in getting Airfix to do new toolings. I personally would prefer more re-releases as they would most proberly be easier to their get money back on investment? As we all know new tools are very expensive before plastic is poured with design etc. There that's off my chest, but good luck in the pursuit. I also noticed in the voting that there were votes for kits that are already available HMS KGV & KMS Bismarck. To avoid people voting for kits that are already released I've typed up the list below from the 1998 catalouge. Now if I've misread the original post & you mean retooling of the old moulds, then I apologise for the misunderstanding(& refer you to my first point, unfortunately). The current list as stands: HMS Ark Royal Bismarck HMS Belfast SS Canberra HMS Fearless HMS KGV HMS Iron Duke HMS Warspite All the best: Shane APMA 630(Committee Member) IPMS(NSW) 1093 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Dry Transfer cost I was interested in Flagship carrying a line of high quality dry transfers of flags and signal pennants. The neat thing about using dry transfers instead of decals is that they can be transferred to aluminum foil and bent to have a fluttering flag. I did a bit of checking around and I talked to (not touting anyone) Woody at Archer Transfers, Woodland Scenics, Chartpack and Letraset and found the cost prohibitory high. They were either very expensive per sheet after set up and color separations or the companies had a minimum of 50 sheets which also made it cost prohibitive. I think Woody will come through eventually. He and I want signal flags, pennants and flags in 1/700 and 1/350. I hope you have better luck than I. Rusty (not touting anyone) White Flagship Models Inc. http://warship.simplenet.com/Flagship.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Jim McCormick" Subject: Re: Yamato URL SMMLers: My apologies on my posting for the Yamato. I have compared the address I listed with the address of the site, and I had it down right. I don't know what to say as to why so many of you are having trouble getting to the site. What I would suggest, is to do a search for the company Hobby link Japan( I use altavista). From there, it's a snap to find the new Imaii 1/150th scale Yamato in the future release sections. I was blocked from viewing Johan's page(damn company firewall), but I expect it is the same kit. This bad boy is BIG!!!!! If anyone else can hit this site, or know wherein lies the problem, please give a shoutout! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Pit Road Thinner Dave, I have never used Pit Road paints but...... Have you tried cellulose thinner?? Works a treat with virtually anything. Be careful though, in smaller quantities (eg mixed with Tamiya Acrylics in an airbrush) it bites into the plastic just enough to give a paint job good grip. In larger quantities (eg if using as a paint stripper) it can damage the plastic quickly. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Doc Data Subject: Re: Tamiya 1/350th Battleship Models I am near complete with the Missouri and while the kit is a beauty, it lacked a huge amount of bulkhead detail in the way of doors, portlights, fire stations, etc. All of these were available in PE from GMM. Also consider the use of one of the standard PR sets for the BB's available from GMM or Tom's as a necessity. Doc Data -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Doc Data Subject: Re: CV-42 USS Roosevelt Revell had one in 1:540 scale and GMM has a PE set for that class carrier in that scale. One model just sold on EBay the other day for about $33.00 (first one I've seen in a long while) Doc Data -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Tamiya Fletcher Chocks >> Should I remove the davits and chocks? << If you have the 1/350 Fletcher I would carefully cut off the the davits and chocks. The chocks along the bow are in the wrong place anyway and if you're going to use the GMM etched brass you will need to do it anyway. The GMM instructions tell where the correct placement of the chocks should be. If you're carefull they should be fairly easy to reattach in their correct possitions. Regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "FERNANDO, YOHAN" Subject: IJN Carriers Hi Everybody, Does anyone know where I could find photos and/or plans of the following IJN carriers? CVE Shinyo CVE Kaiyo CVL Hiyo The Hiyo is many times referred to as being in the same class as the Junyo. Was she similar enough that a Junyo model could be used to represent her? Thanks in advance. Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: Re: USS Roosevelt, CV-42 >> I have heard there is a model representing the CV-42 USS Roosevelt possibly made by Revell? If not what model can be modified to represent the ship as she was in the early 70's. << The Revell kit is a reissue of a 1950s kit. 1:542 scale, axial deck, early 50s aircraft. It would take a great deal oif scratchbuilding to convert it to 1970s configuration. I *think* Arii made a 1:800 Midway (CV-41) in angled-deck configuration that might serve better as a basis for CV-42. Les -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Tamiya 1/350th Battleship Models >> Does anyone know how accurate the Tamiya 1/350th battleships models are? They look great (I have the Yamato), but i was wondering if they're correct. I want to build accurate models and would like to start with the best possible model without having to do alot of reworking... Also, are they a good start for a first time ship modeler? I was also wondering about the Academy Bismarck kit too, because it's way cheaper then the Tamiya kit! Any good titles for reference would be helpful too. << I have all of the Tamiya 1/350 battleship models. They are probably the best set you can get in injection molded plastic. Generally they are well done with very minor inacuracies. Also, you can get excelent photo etched brass detail sets from Gold Medal Models that were designed specifically for these kits. There are some drawbacks, though. Some of them have split decks which are really annoying. The crane on the Yamato is wrong, but is correct on the Musashi (go figure). The bridge wings on the Tirpitz are wrong but corrected with the GMM brass. The Academy kits are basically copies of the Tamiya, but not quite as well done. I'm not sure if Academy had an licencing agreement with Tamiya or just copied the kits. As for reference books, well, how much do you have to spend? You can spend hundreds (or thousands) of dollars on reference books just on these ships. A good start would be the series by Garzke and Dulin: Battleships: United States Battleships, 1935-1992, Vol. 1, by William H. Garzke, Robert O. Dulin, Published October 1994, $52.50 Battleships: Allied Battleships in World War II, Vol. 2, by William H. Garzke, Robert O. Dulin, Thomas G. Webb, Published November 1981, $52.50 Battleships: AXIS and Neutral Battleships in World War II, Vol. 3, by William H. Garzke, Robert O. Dulin, Published October 1985, $55.97 Note that the last one is only available from http://www.borders.com and that Barnes&Noble and Amazon list it as out of print. There are individual books on most of these ships that could be very useful. Regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: KoopmaFS@utrc.utc.com Subject: Q: Resin casting, and mold release for scratchbuild headache reduction Hello, There are certain projects where I either need to add duplicate scratch-built details (new 40mm mounts for different year outfit, etc), or scratch-build a replacement for a part that is missing. I sometimes wonder how easy it would be to scratch-build once and then use that as a blank for an RTV mold, and resin cast as many as I need, rather than scratch-building each one over and over. Having worked in boatyards, in the past, the methods of casting, molding, and working with resins, epoxies, and FRP is nothing new to me. However I've never used RTV as mold medium before. This leads me to two questions. What kind of resins work well with RTV? The resin kits that I've bought in the past have the weight and soft waxy feel of Polyester, but the colors resemble nothing I've worked with before. Epoxies, although being fairly resistant to shrinkage when curing, strike me as being too hard and brittle to work with, post-cure (not to mention trapping metric butloads of air bubbles unless vacuum bagged or worked evenly across an open surface). Second, is there a mold release wax or similar product that is needed for RTV, or is the RTV surface inherently non-bonding? If a mold release is needed, is there a particular brand that works best, and where could I obtain it? I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in advance Fritz -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: BUCKLEY-class DE Gold Medal Models has a photoetched detail set for the Revell DE, but it'll set you back $40. It is lovely, though, and necessary if you want to do a really accurate, well-detailed model of USS SOLAR. As to photos of her, I'd start with the Naval Historical Center in Washington, D.C., or the National Archives. John_Snyder -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Michael Quan" Subject: Re: USS Missouri rigging >> On the rigging of the USS Missouri, I would think that the planbook put out by the Floating Drydock would be the best source. << Hello SMMLers! I second Art Nicholson's recommendation. The Floating Drydock's Plan Book for the USS Missouri BB63 (@ $40) has poorly reproduced drawings, but photos of the Gibbs & Cox model and closeups of the masts pretty well define the rigging arrangements. From what I've seen, this is your best bet as a reference. cheers, Mike Quan "waiting for a PHM" :-) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Jakloek@aol.com Subject: Missouri Rigging, Decal Printers, and Acetone The book "Battleship Missouri, An Illustrated History" by Paul Stillwell has a number of good photos of the Missouri during WWII which show her rigging. The book is still in print (my wife gave it to me for Christmas). No one picture shows it all, but from several photos, you can get a good idea of what the rigging was. Most printers do not print white, which is a problem for making decals. Here is the trick I use. I print my decals on clear decal paper. (You can use an ink jet printer or a color copier, you just need to seal the decal with a coat of clear gloss before you use it.) I then cut a piece of plain white decal paper approximately the size and shape of the decal I want to use, and apply it to the model first. When it is dry, I then decal the printed decal (on clear stock) over the white. It works fine, as long as your first white decal is not larger than your second one. Finally, a recent note in SMML commented that acetone is "highly toxic" and that the vapors "can kill you". While you certainly want to use acetone with respect, (it is flammable, and you should only use it with good ventilation, just like you would with any solvent), it is not particularly toxic. In fact it is the primary ingredient in nail polish remover, and (mostly) women have been soaking their fingers in it for years with no adverse effects. I am a chemist, and have used it for years safely to clean laboratory glassware. It is very similar to rubbing alcohol in this regard, and used with a little common sense, should not harm you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Baker Subject: BOOKS FOR MODELLERS In the U.S., the excellent book BATTLECRUISERS is published by the U.S. Naval Institute Press. It originated from the fine new Chatham publishing house in the UK, where there is a greater interest in naval books than here. Neither company could have afforded to publish it alone (or would have had to charge a price unfaffordable to most). The naval book market in the USA (the serious studies, like those of the estimable John Roberts) is around 4,000 people (out of 250 million), which is not much of a market, and with the decline in readership in this country, the future does not bode well. In order to get the marvellous IMPERIAL JAPANESE NAVY CRUISERS OF WORLD WAR II into print, the USNI Press had to find a donor to cover the difference between the price charged and the actual cost of producing the book; they (and the authors) were lucky in finding such a donor, but, given the state of society today, military books are not going to find much monetary support from charitable organizations. From my dealings with the USNI (I've been published by the USNI Press since the 1970s), they do not believe that their mission encompasses the modeller market and are reluctant to take on the added marketing expense that would be involved. They do issue some quality paperback editions of their narrative books but are unlikely to produce any on their more technical books. In the case of BATTLECRUISER, which has a pocket in the back with a large-sized drawing of a battlecruiser, a paperback would probably not be significantly cheaper than a hardback anyway. Sorry to be long-winded. Dave Baker -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Kirov Kit >> I wonder if there are any reliable scale plans available for the Kirov class battlecruisers? Doesn't look like there'll be a kit soon, and...we all need to dream a little, don't we? << Ah, yes, but as was discussed not long ago, Imperial Navy of Wynnewood, Pennsylvania, USA advertised a 1/700 KIROV for tentative release in December 1998. The page 76 in the September issue of Fine Scale Modeler for details. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Missouri Rigging >> Does anyone know where I can get a clear photo or drawing of the standard rigging and halyard arrangement on the Missouri in 1943/44? << I'd bet the book, "Battleship Missouri: An Illustrated History" by Paul Stilwell would be a good, albeit rather expensive, place to look. Retails for US$55 from most dealers. Also the Floating Drydock has a slightly less pricey plan book for BB63. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Michelle Roth" Subject: Re: Scharnhorst camouflage scheme. >> Any ideas about interesting Scharnhorst's camo scheme in 1943? I'm going to build this ballteship and I'd like to finish her in great appear. << Damian, If you go to the Navis page and look in the past issues, you will find an interesting article on this scheme done by Paolo Pizzi, and some other info regarding the Scharnhorst.... http://www.navismagazine.com...I think this is the correct internet address..?? Hope this helps... Eric Roth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: VessIrvine@aol.com Subject: Mating Upper and Lower Hull of BWN 1/350 USS Houston, 1941 I am looking at the job of mating the top and bottom hulls of my 1/350 Houston (Galloping Ghost of the Java Coast). My version of the BWN Houston has only two parts instead of the original model, which I believe had four pieces. My problem is with lining up the two parts fore and aft. If I align the pieces so that the bow and stern parts match well, requiring a minimum of filling and sanding, then the long ends of the rectangular "armor belt" amidships do not line up, since the hull is split at the water line, and half of the belt is on the top piece, and half is on the lower piece, and there is almost a 1/8 of an inch over-hang at each end of the belt, fore and aft. My question is what do you think would be the easiest solution to this problem: 1. Since the top and bottom belts are the same length, I could match them and then face radical sanding and shaping of the bow. 2. Match the bow and then: a) shave 1/8 inch off of the top front of the belt and 1/8 inch off the bottom rear of the belt, square it up as best a possible, and then ignore the fact that the remaining belt is 1/8 inch to short. b) Cut small rectangles of sheet plastic and fill in the under and over hangs and sand smooth with the rest of the belt. c) sand off the entire armor belt and replace with one large rectangular length of evergreen sheet cut to the scaled size. If anyone has faced and solved the same problem, I would appreciate your wisdom on the best plan of action. Perhaps Mike Bishop (owner of BWN) could share his thoughts on this problem. All in all, this is one gorgeous kit of a beautiful and courageous ship, and I am very pleased with my purchase. But this problem is sort of holding back progress as I contemplate the task of handling the alignment problem. I hope I explained it good enough so that you all understand the issue. If not, I could perhaps make a rough drawing in another e-mail message. Regards Vess Irvine Denver, Colorado -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: WEM webpage Updates and New Releases Hi! I have just updated the webpages with additions to the following: http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/kashmir/kash.htm Added pics of Ian Ruscoe's and Jim Baumann's WEM 1/700 Kashmir 1939 builds http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/350sheff/350sheff.htm Finally, I.ve added pics of a full hull 1/350 HMS Sheffield kit.... and have just received some VERY interesting photos of a group of VERY strange men in our bedroom on 4th July at Santa Clara..... word has it that some of them are regular SMML subscribers... watch this space.. tee..hee! Oh, I almost forgot, we now have 1/350 Seahawks..the jet (with etched brass detail sets), 1/350 Phantoms (again with etched brass), and also some new AIRSTRIKE 700 releases: Bearcats, Tigers, A12 Shrikes, Vampires, Hawker Tempest, Attacker and Sabre... we HOPE that a big batch of 1/700 helo brass and a restock on J,K, and N Class brass will arrive tomorrow, for those of you who have waited SO patiently. New additions to the PROFESSIONAL 700 range are as follows (there will be from 4 to 8 items per bag at 1.57 pounds). WEM PRO B01 pre-war/WWII 36' pinnace. WEM PRO B02 27' whaler WEM PRO WEM PRO B03 14'dinghy WEM PRO B04 WWI 30' cutter WEM PRO B05 WWII 25' fast motor boat (type 1) WEM PRO B06 32' cutter or WWI 34'cutter WEM PRO B07 WWII 16' fast motor boat WEM PRO B08 WWII 35' motor pinnace WEM PRO B09 WWI 30' gig WEM PRO B10 WWII 36' motor pulling pinnace WEM PRO B11 WWII 25' fast motor boat (type 2) WEM PRO B13 WWII 30' motor pinnace WEM PRO B14 WWII 30' motor boat WEM PRO B15 WWII 32' motor pinnace WEM PRO B16 36' saling pinnace WEM PRO F01 Small Carley float WEM PRO F02 Medium Carley float WEM PRO F03 Balsa raft WEM PRO F04 Copper punt (All patterns have been mastered by Brian Fawcett of MDC) And watch this space for some great 1/700 US Navy additions.. suggestions from SMMLlies welcomed!! Cheers Caroline Carter/nWMo and WEMblie -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: dhjonespsm@juno.com (Daniel H. Jones) Subject: Plastic Ship Modeler magazine Rusty White writes: >> I can only comment on products I know about. There are so many new things out there every day concerning ships it's tough to keep up. Notice to ALL ship model related industries!!!! Send me some information on your products (except John or Tom. JUST KIDDING!!) and I'll mention it in Ships & Tips in the IPMS(USA) Journal. << OR, Why not try a subscription to Plastic Ship Modeler magazine. We already HAVE all the latest news in each and every issue (usually at least 10 pages of kits and product reviews and announcements - more than in any other publication ). All the most popular scales are covered, 1/1200, 1/700, 1/350, and much more. PSM has specialized in keeping abreast of all the latest news in our hobby from the very first issue, and will continue to do so. In addition we have at least four or five feature articles in every issue. Each issue contains general arrangement plans of a variety of subjects for scratch builders. We also review the latest books on ships and naval history, at least 2 to 3 pages in each issue. Check out the contents (feature articles) of all our past issues at the Warship web site. Or, write for more information to: Plastic Ship Modeler P.O. Box 2183 Arvada, CO 80001-2183 USA Subscriptions: (1year - 4 issues) $20.00 (USA, CANADA, and SOUTH AMERICA $25.00 OVERSEAS (airmail delivery) Thanks, Dan Jones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume