Subject: SMML12/09/98VOL300 Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 01:28:36 +1000 (EST) shipmodels@tac.com.au --------------------------------------------------------- **HAPPY TRI-CENTENNIAL SMML** Thanks to everybody who has participated in the first 300 Volumes! I hope 300 is just the tip of the SMML iceburg:-) Well Done One and All. Greg (Listmaster - SMML) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: IJN Camoflage warning 2: PIT ROAD THINNER 3: Q: Resin casting, and mold release for scratchbuild headache 4: Re: RTV casting 5: Biggest, Baddest Yamato 6: Correction 7: Acetone 8: Midway class model/Quailty of Japanese models 9: You want a big model? HERE's a big model!!!! 10: Source for photos & info 11: Re: USS HOUSTON armor belt 12: Yamato URL glitch 13: Carriers HIYO, KAIYO, and SHINYO 14: floaternet baskets -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: New release from Iron Shipwrights 2: Re: Kirov kit 3: Re: 1/1200 kits for trade/exchange. 4: Re: Missouri Rigging, Decal Printers, and Acetone -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Donna Ogilvie Subject: IJN Camoflage warning This evening I had a little spare time ( kids and wife went to bed early with mild colds) and thought I would take a break from my 1/350 Fletcher and put together the beautiful little 1/700 scale Naval Works IJN Flying Boat Tender Akitsushima. As I started to assemble the parts and paint them I wasn't as happy with the gray I had chosen as I thought I would be. I pulled out an old reference on IJN colors and received a shock. There was a drawing of the Akitsushima, surprising as there aren't many references on her and only two murky photos that I know of. She isn't in a shade of wartime gray, but in a camouflage scheme of light green and black. The scheme was designed by the Constructor LCDR Shizuo and the ships CO. The basic color was light green with the area from aprox half way between the hawse hole and the capstan to the rear of the second gun mount black. also the 1/4th of the ship had black spots. for a drawing of this see "Warships International vol. 1 1982.the drawing is on page 32. Cdr. Wells article, titled, Painting Systems of the Imperial Japanese Navy, 1904-1945. The article covers many other areas of IJN painting including the camouflage paint scheme for 5 aircraft carriers, the ASW scheme carried by merchant ships and aux. ships from 44 on, the black scheme for subs including how to figure the waterline ect.and with some notes on paints to use on models. John Sheridan- if you want a copy of this for your web site I can copy it and fax it to you, though you might get a cleaner copy from the library. While I'm not a Yamatoholic I enjoy seeing the postings about her on the main part of the SMML. As for a wish list how about a conversion to backdate the 1/350 Yamato to her as built configuration as in the 1/700 Musashi kit? Greg Ogilvie. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Baker Subject: PIT ROAD THINNER Thanks to all who replied with suggestions for thinning the Pit Road IJN paints. Looks as though the "winner" is Dan Jones, who quite logically recommended (based on his own usage) that I use Gunze Sanyo's own Mister Thinner. All the mail is appreciated, and I plan to sit back and take a deep breath (but not of Mr. Thinner) and try airbrushing the flotilla of IJN ships awaiting their proper paintschemes. Many thanks! Dave Baker -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: Q: Resin casting, and mold release for scratchbuild headache Hi Fritz, >> What kind of resins work well with RTV? The resin kits that I've bought in the past have the weight and soft waxy feel of Polyester, but the colors resemble nothing I've worked with before. Epoxies, although being fairly resistant to shrinkage when curing, strike me as being too hard and brittle to work with, post-cure (not to mention trapping metric butloads of air bubbles unless vacuum bagged or worked evenly across an open surface). << The most common resins in consumer use are either Alumilite, Pour-A-Kast, and a couple of others whose names escape me. These are all fast setting polyester resins (about five minute gel times) that will give you a good part without being too hard. As for the casting industry in the US, most all use Vagabond's 2C slow or 36XXX resin, which is also polyester, but with a 15-30 minute gel time. For the best results, get a quick flowing resin like Pour-A-Kast rather than a thick resin like Alumilite. For the parts I'm casting, I use the Vagabond 2C Slow with an off white coloring agent, but before that I used Pour-A-Kast, which I feel is a superior resin. >> Second, is there a mold release wax or similar product that is needed for RTV, or is the RTV surface inherently non-bonding? If a mold release is needed, is there a particular brand that works best, and where could I obtain it? << Resin won't bond to the RTV, but after 20-30 pulls, the RTV does begin to break down, and you'll either have to make a new mold or put a mold release down. The best mold release I've found so far are a couple of spray parafilms from a company called Price-Driscoll. They sell two types, an epoxy parafilm for mold seperation (when making a two piece mold) and a polyester parafilm for a mold release agent. Each can is about $8, but for small applications, this will last a long time. Since I do production casting, I go through about a can a month, and that's for about 400 pulls of parts (over about ten-twenty kits). Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: RTV casting >> What kind of resins work well with RTV? << Most of us who use RTV molds use polyurethane resin. There are many different brands and formulae and they come in a wide variety of colors and curing times. The resin I use comes from: VAGABOND CORPORATION, PO Box 79, Warner Springs, CA 92086 USA (760) 782-3136; FAX (760) 782-3138. They offer over a dozen different types. I normally use 43-321 Odorless White, but have also used 36-xxx. Both have a working time of about 2 minutes and take detail very well. You can buy these resins in quantities from 2 pint sets to 110 gallon sets (they are a 50/50 mix). >> Second, is there a mold release wax or similar product that is needed for RTV, or is the RTV surface inherently non-bonding? << To a point, the RTV surface is inherently non-bonding; however, if you plan on making more than a couple pours, a release agent will prolong the life of your mold. You can buy a variety of release agents, usually in spray cans, from a variety of suppliers, including Vagabond. I use it every so often, but normally I dust the mold with plain old talcum powder after each pour. It works fine as long as you don't allow it to build up in the crevices. It's a good idea to wash your molds with warm water and dish-washing soap after a pouring session, too. Just be sure to get all of the moisture out of the nooks and crannies before doing a pour, as the resin will usually react with the moisture and foam at points of contact. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "FERNANDO, YOHAN" Subject: Biggest, Baddest Yamato >> From there, it's a snap to find the new Imaii 1/150th scale Yamato in the future release sections. I was blocked from viewing Johan's page(damn company firewall), but I expect it is the same kit. << Actually, it's a different kit- and bigger. It's in 1/96 scale!! Unfortunately, there are no photos of the kit or its parts. Just a long parts list that adds up to over $2000 when bought together. Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "A. P. Suess" Subject: Correction In a recent trade posting I was mistaken in saying that the new book "Warship Perspectives-Fletcher, Gearing & Sumner Class Destroyers" was written by Alan Raven and Jeffery J. Herne. The Book was written by Jerrery J. Herne alone with Illustrations by Alan Raven and Jeffrey J. Herne. My apologies to the subscribers of this list and to Mr. Herne. Tony The Modelers Boatyard http://www.modelersboatyard.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Max Loosli Subject: Acetone Hello the list, Just following up on the Acetone thread, I think you will find it is also a useful cyano debonder .... (at least thats what my bottle of debonder smells like ....). Regards, Max -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Tomcat" Subject: Midway class model/Quailty of Japanese models The model Les is talking about appears to be available from Hobbylink for 1800 Yen. Address as below: http://www.iac.co.jp/~hlj/pages/arii/aria128.html Also does any of you knows about the quality of the different Japanese manufactors. It seems that Skywave/Pitroad(?) are very good in general(Like Tamayia i suppose) but what about Arii and Fujimi and Hasegawa? Best regards, Fredrik Tholander -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Michael Kear Subject: You want a big model? HERE's a big model!!!! >> In the words of Jack Nicholson-" You want the Yamato?- You can't handle the Yamato!!!" Seriously, go to: http://iac.co.jp/~hlj/pages/imai/imaib-27420.html. This is now the biggest full kit of the Yamato on the market, going for around $680.00 US, or close to $1100.00 AUS. If anyone is unfarmiliar, Hobby link Japan is a great source, and always has dealt honestly and fairly with me. << I'm hopeful that soon after Task Force 72's Fleet regatta in November, that I'll be able to bring you photos of one of our members' 1/72 scale Yamato on its first completed outing - 12 feet long and a spectacular model. At our last Annual regatta, it had hull, decks, barbettes and some of the superstructure was bare ply. There was no running gear inside but it had the prop shafts and rudders fitted. It just sat there at its mooring looking amazing. It didn't move **AT ALL** as the waves and chop hit it, and even thought it was in it's 'low detail' stage, the public were all commenting about it. This is one mammoth model and that's no doubt. The prototype must have been a sight to see! When it's completed and takes its place in the line-astern it will be a show-stopper I can testify. Also not to be missed will be the sight of the hernias popping as its taken from its custom built trailer to the water and back again. We still have the plug and can make hulls for anyone interested if you like. Only US$5,400 for the full kit. (yeah right!) No, really, there's no likelihood of a kit any time soon but I honestly can't wait to see this gigantic model. We build models that seem normal to us but most people in other countries think they are large. But this Yamato is enormous even by our standards. Fair winds and following seas, M ke Kear, Windsor, NSW, Australia Webmaster, Task Force 72 Australia 1/72 Scale warship modellers, Australia http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/taskforce72.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Tomcat" Subject: Source for photos & info I suppose that many of you already know of this address but it does contain a number of photos and general information about, mostly modern warships with links to different subcontractors. http://www.naval-technology.com/projects/ Cheers, Fredrik Tholander -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: USS HOUSTON armor belt Vess: I'd suggest lining up bow and stern, and dealing with the mismatched armor belt by using a little automotive bondo to build up and fill the offending gap. A little subsequent sanding and you've solved that particular problem. John Snyder -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Duane W. Christensen" Subject: Yamato URL glitch The Glitch in the Yamato URL is after the last slash: http://iac.co.jp/~hlj/pages/imai/imb-27420.html the orig. message had it as: /imaib-27420. It is from Hobbylink Japan's web page: http://iac.co.jp/~hlj I found it after some experimentation with the address! Duane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) Subject: Re: Carriers HIYO, KAIYO, and SHINYO From: dhjonespsm@juno.com (Daniel H. Jones) >> Does anyone know where I could find photos and/or plans of the following>IJN carriers? CVE Shinyo CVE Kaiyo CVL Hiyo The Hiyo is many times referred to as being in the same class as the Junyo. Was she similar enough that a Junyo model could be used to represent her? << A really good source for photos of these IJN carriers is the old out of print "Maru" series booklets. A condensed version of the series ( a "best of" reprint in hardcover in 8 volumns) is still in print and can be obtained from Pacific Front Hobbies - contact them for availability and price. I cannot say how many of the photos of these vessels from the old series made it into the new series. Since I have all but one of the old ones, I have not purchased these new books. Two other (in print) sources that are also available from Pacific Front are:' "Imperial Japanese Aircraft Carriers" (Gran Prix books) - a book of drawings of both general arrangements and numerous details - covering all the IJN carriers. "Ships of the World Special - 1994, No. 481 - History of Japanese Aircraft Carriers". This is a very good photo book - Japanese text only in both books. KIYO is one of those ships that was seldom photographed, and those photos that exist are of very poor quality. It is, as far as I can tell, nearly identical to YUNYO. These two ships were conversions from uncompleted passenger liners, planned sister ships with identical hulls, and both of the conversions followed the same plans. Yes, in my opinion, a model of YUNYO could be used to represent HIYO. In contrast to KIYO, YUNYO survived the war and was photographed extensivvely, both during the war by Japanese photographers - and afterwards by both US Army and US Navy photographers. The US Army maintained a guard detail aboard this ship (and many others that were intact and bottomed out in shallow water) and they took several sharp detail shots of the ship that are great for modelers. Some of the best of the YUNYO photos are published in all three of the references listed above. SHINYO and KAIYO: Like KIYO - few photos have survived, and no large detailed plans that I know of. One reference which I do not have in my collection is the large photo book on Japanese carriers by Shuzio Fukui, which may have photos of these ships that I have not seen. His collection had many unique photos not available anywhere else and the three volumns that he completed are a great pictorial reference, but are now very expensive and hard to find (I only have the first one on battleships). The carrier book typically sells for over $250.00 - if and when one shows up in the marketplace. All three carriers, KAIYO. YUNYO, and SHINYO, have plans drawn in 1/1200 scale published in Jentchura, Jung, and Mickel's book "Warships of the Imperial Japanese Navy 1869-1945" - USNIP (1977). As far as I know, this excellent book is still in print. For anyone with a serious interest in the IJN, this is the best English language book to start with, forming a good foundation for further reading. There are resin kits offered in 1/700 of both KAIYO and SHINYO. Dan Jones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Jowfx@webtv.net (John Fox) Subject: floaternet baskets Hi, Does anyone have any suggestions about scratchbuilding floaternet baskets in 1/700? Does any PE manufacturer make these? It would seem like a logical item to include on a PE ship set. Thanks John Fox -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: New release from Iron Shipwrights Hi Everyone, Our next release in the Iron Shipwrights line will be a 1/350 scale USS Alaska, circa 1945. This will be a two piece hull kit, with the usual resin and photoetch parts. Projected price will be in the $325 US range, and should be available around November 15. Look for production parts to be posted on Warships next week, along with further pricing and ordering information. Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: Kirov kit Hi Jens, >> I wonder if there are any reliable scale plans available for the Kirov class battlecruisers? Doesn't look like there'll be a kit soon, and...we all need to dream a little, don't we? << There is a 1/700 kit available from us already, of the modern Russian cruiser from HP Models... this is a waterline resin kit and has a price tag of 53.57 pounds plus shipping at cost. Cheers Caroline Carter White Ensign Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Mr J Owen" Subject: Re: 1/1200 kits for trade/exchange. I have the following 1/1200 kits which I would like to trade for 1/700 scale resin models of British ships if possible. EAGLE KITS; Prince of Wales, Exeter, Norfolk, Bismarck, Von Scheer, Prinz Eugen, Graf Spee, Lutzow, Saar, Acheron. All have instruction sheets only Prinz Eugen has a box. All have been partially made at some stage, some have been painted many years ago. Ideal for complete rebuilding or to make moulds from. AIRFIX KITS; Hood, Suffolk, Tribal Class Destroyer. Part made, unpainted. I would rather exchange them as one lot rather than splitting. Further info on request. Jim Owen -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Sheridan, John" Subject: Re: Missouri Rigging, Decal Printers, and Acetone >> Most printers do not print white, which is a problem for making decals. Here is the trick I use. I print my decals on clear decal paper. (You can use an ink jet printer or a color copier, you just need to seal the decal with a coat of clear gloss before you use it.) I then cut a piece of plain white decal paper approximately the size and shape of the decal I want to use, and apply it to the model first. When it is dry, I then decal the printed decal (on clear stock) over the white. It works fine, as long as your first white decal is not larger than your second one. << We do sell white decal film that you directly print to. Of course, you will need to be very careful when you cut-out the decal. Here's the URL for more info: http://www.microscale.com/trimfilm.html John Sheridan @ Microscale Decals http://www.microscale.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume