Subject: SMML28/09/98VOL316 Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 21:32:04 +1000 (EST) shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Fixing wooden decks 2: AA on Ark Royal 3: HMS JAVELIN 4: Re: model interest 5: Re: Missouri waterline 6: Re: Modern versus WW-2 7: Re: Sanding wood decks 8: Re: Young Yamatoholic 9: Re: Celebrity visitation 10: Web address 11: Re: Bismarck's turrets yet agin 12: Re: WW2 subjects -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: More on our Flower Class Corvettes 2: LINDBERG MINESWEEP 3: CVN-65 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: Fixing wooden decks >> This question is regarding the classic Revell Arizona but holds for any ship kit in general. I noticed a few mold errors and sinkholes in the wood part of the deck. What is the best way to correct these without effecting the look of the deck? I was thinking of just filling and sanding as usual then scribe in lines that match the raised lines on the deck. Is this a good idea? Anyone have a special way of dealing with this problem? << Scribing the deck planks is a bad idea. Very bad idea. I tried it on my Tamiya Tirpitz, and now I am amazed that I could be so stupid to start such a thing (besides, the model isn't finished). Not only do you have to get the scribing tool in between all the things on the deck sticking out and tight corners, but all the deck planks parallel. If you really want scribed deck planks, remove the superstructure parts from the decks and replace the deck using prescribed sheet styrene (available in several sizes from Evergreen). Alternatively, you could fill and sand as you suggested, and then disguse the areas you worked on with paint. Women do it all the time, so it is quite effective;) No offense ladies! First, paint the deck the colour of wood (teak?) When dry, take a set of brown colour pencils and then make random lengthwise strokes. Change colours (get three or four different ones all being fairly similar in hue, but not identical) at random and don't try to put on a too heavy stroke. You want to tint the brown base coat and get a nice balance. Wooden planks are not uniform in colour, neither from plank to plank, nor within the same plank, so therefore you don't have to mask individual planks. This technique is surprisingly effective, and worked wonders on my 1:700 Scharnhorst - now I have a hard time seeing where I filled and sanded the decks. Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Vimieraa@aol.com Subject: AA on Ark Royal Mr Mitchell says that all pom poms were connected to the directors. Does this include the two mountings fitted in 1941, or all of the mountings carried at the time the ship was completed? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Tim Stoneman Subject: HMS JAVELIN Various correspondents have discussed HMS JAVELIN'S colour schemes, and recently that worn when she was damaged in the action against LODY, BEITZEN and GALSTER south of Prawle Point on 25 Nov 1940. Photos of what was left of JAVELIN after that action show a dark hull, light upperworks (the contrast between the two looking too marked for the two shades of Mountbatten Pink) and black pennants. The photos have appeared in various places, such as "Destroyers at War", "Sunk and Damaged" and German Destroyers of World War Two" Tim Stoneman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: model interest >> This is not meant to be a judgement of any kind - we ought only to model subjects that interest us - but a genuine effort to understand this phenomenon. << Mike, I think we have little to do with what our "interests" are, they just happen, maybe something in the genes. I know that you can read or see something and it perks your interest but way down deep I think we have little or no control of it. I once attended a conference on management and the whole thing boiled down to something simple. However the world is when your are 10 to 13 years old, that means work ethic, morality, etc., etc.: that is generally how you will go through life. Many of us on this list either lived during WWII or had parents who did. That said, how can I explain that my interests in ships are generally prior to WWII ??????? Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Missouri waterline >> I'd like to repeat my question of where the waterline of the Missouri was at loaded weight. OK, it may look like a naive question, and most likely it was somewhere on the black line, but that is 5.5 mms wide, and if I cut the hull too far up or too far down it won't look right. I may settle for the ship as it was at the surrender ceremonies as the colour scheme is simpler, but still providing contrast with the teak decks. << I thought someone would have answered this by now. The black line on the Missouri and all other warships is called the waterline boot. It's painted at the ships filled out weight (fuel, ammo, water, food, etc.). The waterline at full weight should be approximately half way under water. I remember someone saying the waterline boot is too low on the New Jersey kit (and, I suppose, on the Missouri kit as well). Check out some good photos and verify this before you begin painting. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Modern versus WW-2 I agree with Paul Jacobs. reason the WW2 era is so popular are the historical events involved. Also, there is a ton of drawings and historical data available to modelers that have been declassified. Most information concerning modern ships is still classified and hard to find. I prefer modern warships to WW-2 vintage ships and I too have been frustrated by the lack of kits and information. I will soon begin to remedy that. If I can't get the models I want, then I'll make them myself. Flagship Models will soon be releasing our first kit (Modern and REALLY cool!!!!) I started Flagship Models for the same reason. There just were no modern PE sets available at the time, so I made my own. Masters are almost done. I'm now designing the photo-etch. I'll keep you updated the closer the release date gets Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Sanding wood decks >> This question is regarding the classic Revell Arizona but holds for any ship kit in general. I noticed a few mold errors and sinkholes in the wood part of the deck. What is the best way to correct these without effecting the look of the deck? I was thinking of just filling and sanding as usual then scribe in lines that match the raised lines on the deck. Is this a good idea? Anyone have a special way of dealing with this problem? << Mike, Try thinning Squadron bran green putty with Testors liquid glue to produce a thinned down putty. It can be applied with a brush in very small amounts. Once it has dried check to see if more putty is required. Since this is thinned with liquid glue, it shrinks more than usual. Now, using a soft cloth (like a diaper) put some DENATIRED alcohol (Not rubbing alcohol) on the cloth and rub the direction of the planking. This will smooth out any seam and not damage any raised detail. You will probably have to re-scribe any lines in the putty. This technique will save you a lot of headaches. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Michael Connelley Subject: Re: Young Yamatoholic Hello: I'm a bit of a Yamatoholic myself. I have both Tamiya kits (which are worth the lawn mowing in my opinion) but I haven't built then yet. I've seen a built 1/250 Yamato that really got my attention. Anyway, on to your questions. 1) One reason that I like the Yamato is that I'm half Japanese and my grandfather fought in the IJN so there's a little national pride in there for me. Plus it's biggest, most heavily armed and armored battleship ever made. And most importantly it's just so BIG and really looks cool. 2) The Yamato and Musashi didn't sink that easily. Both were sunk by US carrier aircraft much like the Arizona and the other ships at Pearl Harbor. The Musashi took hits from 20 torpedoes and 17 bombs (count em'!) and then slowly sank over a few hours. The Yamato took three waves of aircraft and over two hours of attacking to sink. She took at least nine torpedo hits (many on the same side) and several boms hits. She began to list and when she was at an angle of 120 degrees a huge explosion ripped the ship appart. Nearly 2,500 officers and men died and only 280 were saved. 3) I really cannot comment on your Aurora kit since I don't have it. 4) The hull of Yamato was the same color as other ships in the IJN. The instructions on my Tamiya Yamato say to use a mix of one part of XF-63 (German Grey) to two parts of XF-53 (Neutral grey). You might want to lighten all the colors a little for a scale effect. The decks are wood and you should use XF-57 (Buff) or XF-55 (Deck tan...it's a little lighter than Buff and is what I will use). The decks of the Yamato were unpainted 'hinoki' cypress wood with a grey tint. The blast bags on the main and secondary batteries were white but I'm sure got dirty on a hurry. Use XF-53 for the aft aircraft deck. Use XF-56 for the tripple machine guns, anchor chains, anchors and unshielded 12.7cm AA guns on the superstructure. If your model is of the Yamato after October of '44 then the type 98 LA director (the cylinder shaped thing on top of the main rangefinder) is also white. The top of the funnel (smokestack) is black and so is the main mast above that same level. Below the waterline the Yamato was a red-brown color so use XF-9 (hull red). The propeller shafts and propellers were brass color. The aircraft were IJN green (XF-11) on the top surfaces and IJN grey (XF-12) on the lower surfaces. The Yamato did not have any camouflage like the 'dazzle' of American or German ships. The guns are the same color as the turrets...for the most part. Weathering action at sea and during firing of the main batteries takes it toll on paint so the actual shades varied greatly over the ship. If you can find the book, get Janusz Skulski's "The Battleship Yamato". It's published by the Naval Institute Press. It has everything you every wanted to know about the Yamato and a rediculous level of detail in over 150 pages of drawings of the ship. Ever wonder what the exact width of the wood planks were on Yamato (127mm) or what angle the ensign staff was at (10 degrees)? This book will tell you. It's a must have for all Yamatoholics. I hope this info helps you out. Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins Subject: Re: Celebrity visitation >> Well, One of My "Warships" buddies suggested I take a weekend off, I have been a busy boy lately, so I have decided to take that advice, and I am headed North for the weekend. (I am staying at Shane Jenkins House - he just doesn't know it yet:-)))) << Hi All, HELP ME, please SMMLies, HELPPPPPPPPPPPP MEEEEEE I've got a net celebrity staying over on the long weekend(I think!!). What's the protocol, do I clean the model desk or do I make it more cluttered. Even more important do I warn Lorna!!! Do I hide the non ship related modelling gear or on the other hand do I hide the ship related stuff. And where o where do I get some Yamato decorations, or do I get some USN aircraft decorations . Help me SMMLies, you're my only hope But on a serious note, Greg has earned a well deserved rest & I hope he has a good relaxing time. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Bob Morley Subject: Web address Hi all, I discovered this web site devoted only to links to all types of modeling sites. It is very slow to load, but may be worth the wait. I don't really know, because I have not had the chance to explore it yet. I do know that they are looking for new addresses to add to the list. http://140.118.103.11/modelhome.htm Best wishes, Bob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Robert J. Mitchell" Subject: Re: Bismarck's turrets yet agin Hi guys, Sorry to put a mtch to the debate again. I have just spent the past several days researching HMS Javelin for Chris Drage. During the search I came across a photo of Bismarck, presumably taken by an RAF PBY, heading for Brest. The range is quite close considering, although outside AA range. The main Turret tops stand out so pale they are white in the photo. Visibility in the photo is excellent. Unfortunately, I can't scan the photo as the book is fragile and valuable, and I do not wish to crack the spine, however I have seen this photo elsewhere, If I aquire a copy I will post it e-mail for everyine to see. I for one stand corrected, it appears she did in fact have yellow main turret tops after leaving Prinz Eugen, and prior to being torpedoed by Ark Royal' Swordfish, There is no evidence of the same colour on the secondary arnament Regards, Bob Mitchell. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: WW2 subjects >> Mike Kear deplored that so much of the energy of this list was focused on kits depicting ships from World War 2. He appreciates, for technology reasons, ships that are post WW2. For my special interest, naval ships from 1880 to 1910, I see from my point of view a double problem. Not only are there not a lot of fellow modelers interested in this era, and therefore not a lot of postings, there are not a lot of kits to choose from. << That's the problem. I also prefer the period from the Civil War to WWI and would like to see more in this area. Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: More on our Flower Class Corvettes Hi John, Hi Guys, Talk about hiding your light under a bushel! John was 1/2 of that team (the other being Al Ross III.. also a SMMLlie) who wrote "Allied Coastal Forces Parts 1 and 2", and I want to say that when John's book on Flower Class Corvettes is released (come on John, you obviously haven't got the knack of working all night as well..) White Ensign Models will be stocking it ... reservations are being taken right now as we are fairly certain that this will be the best ever book on the Flowers. John is a briliant draughtsman.. we are eternally thankful to him for the large scale drawings he did for WEM for the upgraded Hood's UP launchers, when we were struggling for detailed photographs. Also, we are taking reservations for Part One of Alan Raven's new RN Camou book.. previews suggest that this is going to contain some of the sexiest camou schemes ever seen(!), with Soooo much new material included that any RN modeller would give at least one arm and a leg to simply get a preview! Cheers! Caroline White Ensign Models, Gardeners Cottage, Cowarne Court, Lower Eggleton, Ledbury, Herefordshire, HR8 2UF, U.K. http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models POST FREE AIRMAIL SHIPPING -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: LINDBERG MINESWEEP Dear SMMLers, The Lindberg kit of AM-299 the USS Sentry was last produced in the late 80's. I will be speaking to Linberg this week about things one of which is that kit. Give us a count at shaya@erols.com at The Naval Base if you are interested. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Doc Data Subject: CVN-65 I have a Tamiya 1/350 CVN-65 that I got at a good price but now realize I will have no place large enough to put it and this guy will be a dust magnet! I priced out display cases (custom and standard) that will hold it and the price is more than I care to pay let alone not having an area big enough. I have already talked to the shop where I bought the kit and they will take it back and trade it out for some other ship kits. However, it occurs to me that my good deal on this could be taken advantage of in another way. Does anyone out there want this model? I am not really interested in a cash deal (unless you want to pay something more than I did... $136.22) as that gives me no more buying power than I am going to have when I return the kit next Saturday (10/3/98). So, how about a trade? My interests are strictly 1/350 scale U.S. Navy surface ships and accesories. In particular... Tamiya's New Jersey and Fletcher (I just completed the Missouri today), DML's Ticonderoga, Bunkerhill, Spruance and Ingersoll, Gold Medal Model's photoetch and resin ship kits. If anyone out there has an idea, e-mail me...soon otherwise the kit goes back. Doc Data, owner of the USS Putnam (DD-757) Home Page http://www.MustangONE.com/putnam/index.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume