Subject SMML1/11/98VOL350 Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 11:08:12 +1100 (EST) shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: KM radar 2: Re: brass rod 3: Brass wire and rod for modeling 4: Re: Repost: Fletcher Winches 5: FLETCHER class DD boat winches 6: Brass Wire 7: Re: yardarm and brass rod answers 8: US Navy quad 40mm mounts 9: Fletcher DD winches 10: Passaic Class Monitor Colors 11: Re: Ordering overseas 12: Re: Midway Movie 13: USS Massachusetts 14: Ordering From abroad & Nationals 15: Working with brass 16: Rawalpindi's Sinking 17: paint ref 18: Re: Mountbatten Pink. 19: Re: brass rod and Lighting Titanic 20: 1/600 Civil War Ships 21: Internet shopping 22: Re: Brass Rod 23: Celluclay Seas 24: Cutter Itasca 25: Re: German Radar sets etc. 26: Re: RAWALPINDI 27: PC Patrol Craft 28: HMS KELLY 29: Re: Pacific Front Hobbies...still around? 30: Re: Brass Rod 31: Seeking 16' Dingy & colo(u)r info 32: Re: QE 2 and other liners questions -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Civil War Ships 2: Re: Plastic Ship Modeler Magazine - Number 18 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: KM radar Norman Friedman's Naval Radar (USNIP, 1981) has a couple pages on KM radar. There is one photo of a FuMO 21 installation plus isometric sketches of FuMO 22, 24/25, 29, 61, and 63 antennae. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: brass rod You can get brass rod down to .008" from Special Shapes Co., PO Box 7487, Romeoville, IL 60446-0487, USA, ph (630) 759,1970, FAX (630) 759-1978. They also offer some wonderful structural shapes (Tees, Ls, H, I, etc.) in milled brass in some extremely small sizes. For instance, the smallest Tee is 1/32 x 1/32 x .010" x 30" and sells for about $2.35US. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: Brass wire and rod for modeling John Percy writes: >> I need some advice from those of you experienced with replacing masts, yardarms, etc with brass rod/wire. I'm mostly interested in scalces 1/500-1/800. I've tried doing it in the past without success, and I'm tired of the plastic ones snapping off at the slightest touch (especially smaller scales). 1) Where do you get the stuff? << A wide variety of beautifully manufactured brass wire and rod is available from a model railroad supplier, "Detail Associates". I've been using their products for many years and can recommend them. The wire and rod comes packaged in a long, slim poly bag with a cardboard insert, and you get about 12 pieces of wire or rod in 12" lengths. Sizes I use are .004", .006", .008", .010", .012", .014", .016", .018", and so on, up to about 3/32". I find this product in the model railroad section of at least six local hobby shops, and it is also distributed by the largest model railroad hobby distributor in the U.S., William K. Walthers, Inc. You can look into their website at: URL: http://www.walthers.com for prices and sizes. A year or two ago Caroline Carter posted a similar want note and I advised her of Detail Associates and their products, and presumably she and they now have a business arrangement whereby this product is available through White Ensign Models. >> 2) Do you use brass wire, rod, or tube? Does it matter? << I use all three. A wide variety of brass tubing is available from "K & S Engineering", each size fitting neatly into the next larger size, sort of a telescoping fit. This product is also available from Wm. K. Walthers in individual pieces of 12" length. It only matters what you use, wire, rod, or tubing, where you have an individual preference. I use wire for smallish stuff, rod for larger items, and brass tubing where I need a hollow center, such as cutting out depth charges, fitting deckhouses with brass tubing locators which fit into the next larger size tubing inserted into the deck below in order to locate that component exactly where I want it after detailing and painting. >> 3) How do you assemble with brass without it obviously looking like some guy glued together two pieces of brass rod/wire? IE, I've tried to replicate a simple t shaped mast, and the joint just looks awful, all clumpy and whatnot. << I usually use cyanoacrylate applied with my home-made applicator: a one inch length of stainless steel wire, .015" in diameter, inserted in the eraser end of a common pencil. This allows me to place a miniscule drop of glue to two pieces of brass rod without a large buildup. If there is a noticeable buildup of glue, I can usually scrape most of the offending amount off carefully with a hobby knife. >> 4) Do you actually use glue (cyano, white, etc) to join brass to brass, or do you use some other method, like soldering? << Soldering, for me, in smaller scales (1/192nd) doesn't work very well, and cyano fills all my needs. >> 5) How do you cut lengths of the stuff without the cut end getting pinched? IE, the round cross section of the rod gets distorted (technical term - smooshed) when I cut it. << Brass wire and rod are cut with "Xuron" brand sprue cutters which produce a fairly nice square end, rather than the pinched end commonly associated with wire cutters, nippers, and so on. I then finish the end of the wire or rod by dressing it with a cut-off disk mounted in my Dremel hobby tool. Sort of like grinding the end square. Brass tubing is easily cut in a hobby mitre box with a razor saw, and the ends dressed up with the cut-off disk and Dremel as mentioned. The burr present inside the open end of the brass tubing is easily removed by twirling a #11 blade in an "X-acto" hobby knife inside the tube. None of these techniques are difficult or magic and are easily mastered. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Ross Bruce-QBR000 Subject: Re: Repost: Fletcher Winches >> This is a repost as nobody replied yet, and I am certain there are some walking Fletcher archives among us. So, how many winches did a Fletcher carry? I can spot two, but one was seemingly replaced by a practise loader (Or replaced it?). There is one winch on the portside of the centre superstructere, is there on one starboard too? << I don't know about Fletcher archive, but I've studied alot of pictures and plans so I'll take a shot at this question. The class only had one deck winch as built. It was located in the port waist about 15 feet aft of the port whaleboat. It was also used to raise/lower the starboard boat by means of pulleys and running the lines thru the superstructure break that is located inboard of the boats. The class was built with the practise loader located between the aft superstructures forward of mount 53. This was pretty typical, the only exception that I'm aware of (and I look forward to any inputs here) was the three ships that were outfitted with catapults. In their case the loader was moved to the starboard side as a counterbalance to the aircraft crane that was mounted on the port side. Which incidentally was equipped to use the port winch for lifting power. Can it be said that a particular ship didn't have a starboard winch at a specific point in time......no. Once the ship was operational it was truly amazing the number of authorized and unauthorized modifications that would be made to a ship's configuration. Hope my attempt at the answer helps. Bruce -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: FLETCHER class DD boat winches >> This is a repost as nobody replied yet, and I am certain there are some walking Fletcher archives among us. So, how many winches did a Fletcher carry? I can spot two, but one was seemingly replaced by a practise loader (Or replaced it?). There is one winch on the portside of the centre superstructere, is there on one starboard too? << Most of, if not all of, the 175 FLETCHER class destroyers were built with one (1) boat winch mounted amidships on the port side main deck. This was used for raising and lowering the 26' motor whale boats on both sides through an arrangement of blocks (pulleys). None were mounted on top of the forward, midship, or aft deckhouses in any photos within the 35 references I have on FLETCHER class destroyers. The 5" practice loading machine, used to drill gun crews to improve speed and coordination, was mounted on the main deck between the midship and aft deckhouse. For those interested, the FLETCHER class destroyer USS KIDD, DD 661, is presently moored in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, in the Mississippi river as part of the Louisiana Naval War Memorial. Their web site, and photos of the KIDD, may be found at: URL: http://www.premier.net/~uss_kidd/home.html Paul Jacobs' excellent website, "Warship", has a photo tour of KIDD at: URL: http://warship.simplenet.com/ Argueably the finest reference book on FLETCHERs is "The FLETCHER Class Plans Book" available from The Floating Drydock, found at: URL: http://floatingdrydock.com And lastly, many excellent photo packages of the three FLETCHERS left, KIDD at Baton Rouge, THE SULLIVANS at Buffalo, New York, and CASSIN YOUNG at the Charlestown Navy Yard in Boston, may be had from that congenial trader and proprietor of SeaPhoto, Kurt Greiner, found at: URL: http://members.aol.com/SeaPhoto/index.html There really is a tremendous amount of information available for this, one of the finest destroyer designs of all time, once you get into it. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: NEFFD@dteenergy.com Subject: Brass Wire John Percy asked: >> 1) Where do you get the [brass wire]? << Model Expo (800-222-3876) has bright brass wire in three sizes, for US$2.49 per roll: .015"/26ga x 75' is # sec40285 .025"/24ga x 55' is # sec40244 .031"/22ga x 35' is # sec40224 They also have copper and annealed steel wire in small gages. Call Model Expo and ask for their free catalog of models, supplies and tools. >> 3) How do you assemble....? << I solder it, but it can be glued with CA or Epoxy if you first roughen the surface with emery paper or fine sandpaper. >> 5) How do you cut it without pinching the end? << I just cut it a little too long and file the pinched section off. Don Neff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: yardarm and brass rod answers >> 1) Where do you get the stuff? Is it just plain jane wire from radio shack, or can you buy it at a model shop? I have not been able to find, say, a bag of straight lengths of brass rod (other than the real big pieces you can find at hobby shops that is live 1/32 inches thick).I've tried using the stuff that is rolled (thick wire), but can never get it straight. << You can find brass wire in many different diameters. I have brass wire that is thin as human hair. I use this for whip antennas and the like. Your local hobby shop should be able to get it for you. I get mine at my local railroad hobby shop. It comes in 12" long packs and is straight. >> 2) Do you use brass wire, rod, or tube? Does it matter? << On small scale ships (1/700) I use brass rod. At that scale it looks very convincing. Experience has taught me not to use stretched sprue here. When tightening the rigging, if you're not very careful, the sprue will bend. >> 3) How do you assemble with brass without it obviously looking like some guy glued together two pieces of brass rod/wire? IE, I've tried to replicate a simple t shaped mast, and the joint just looks awful, all clumpy and whatnot. << I can't be much help here. All I can suggest is the parts must be glued together with the smallest amount of glue possible. Only experience can help. Maybe you're using too large a drop of glue. Stretch some sprue and use the long slender ends to dip in the glue and apply it. This is the best applicator for super glue I have ever used. >> 4) Do you actually use glue (cyano, white, etc.) to join brass to brass, or do you use some other method, like soldering? << I use cyno glue to stick any metal to metal or plastic to metal. Soldering will work if you wish to go to the trouble. >> 5) How do you cut lengths of the stuff without the cut end getting pinched? IE, the round cross section of the rod gets distorted (technical term -- smooshed) when I cut it. << This an easy one. After I cut the rod, I insert it in some flat nosed jewelers pliers and sand the end down. Hope this helps. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: US Navy quad 40mm mounts If anyone is going near any of the many preserved US ships with quad 40mm mounts, I missed a few bits when I was measuring and photographing them last year for a planned model in 1/32nd or 1/35th scale, so please contact me if you don't mind spending a bit of time with a measuring tape on someone else's silly modelling project. It is the (early?) mount fabricated from RSJs and sheet steel that interests me, as opposed to one with the rounded front cast base which I surmise to be a later variant. There seem to be several variants, which fact of course I failed to appreciate until studying my photos and sketches back home and it is a long way from the UK to a quad 40 mount! Also, does anyone have a cabling diagram for the power cables, which were removed from several of those at which I looked? Any assistance gratefully received but no great urgency as WEM's 1/350 Sheffield is due to arrive any day now...... Robert Lockie -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: Fletcher DD winches I spent a very happy 2 1/2 days on the USS Kidd at Baton Rouge a year ago (the ship is in excellent condition and the curator, Tim Rizzutto, made me very welcome in his office in the midships 40mm magazine with dozens of manuals and photos.... and an air conditioner) and it certainly only has a single winch on the port side. There is a practice loading machine for the single 5"/38 on the centreline aft of the torpedo tubes but no other winch there. The Floating Drydock book only shows the winch on the port side on the deck plans and none of the other books in my collection shows a second winch anywhere else so I am assuming that there was only one carried. Mind you, there are a number of Fletchers of which I have never seen a single photograph. The Kidd is well worth a visit (or three) and in the same general part of the world (Mobile, Alabama), much the same can be said of the South Dakota BB USS Alabama. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Lance King Subject: Passaic Class Monitor Colors >> I've asked this question before and never, ever got a response - so I'll try this list: Does anyone know what color bands the passaic class ironclads used during the attacks on Fort Sumter? I have good source ref's that say that the ships where black overall, ant that color bands where used to identify the identical monitors of this class - but no info on what colors where used. Any help would be great! << Michael, The answer is that there is really no specific answer! I read a letter from one of the naval officers at New Orleans (in the official records but I do not remember where) to a friend on the Hartford that commented on the banding. He indicated they used whatever color was available and then notified the fleet as to who was what color. In this case it was double ended gunboats that were in question. Best regards, Lance King -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Ordering overseas Carolyn is giving some good advice. I would suggest unless you know and trust these people that you ask for a pro-forma invoice in advance of the purchase. This is an invoice that has all the costs itemized so you will know exactly how much to send. All my overseas hobby shops and distributors request this to back up their payment in case there is a disagreement. It will take a little longer to get your kit doing this but it can save a lot of headaches. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Lance King Subject: Re: Midway Movie I purchased the movie Midway last year. I knew some scences were missing but recently saw the movie on TNT and found out that they had cut almost a hour out. That happened to be the entire battle of Coral Sea. Man was I steamed! Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the entire movie? Lance King -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Mckellar Subject: USS Massachusetts A bit off topic but just to let you know. The USS Massachusetts will be moved from it's home in Fall River, MA to Dry dock #4 in South Boston on Wednesday, Nov 4. Just got off the phone with the museum. This is a rare opportunity to see a BB out of the water. Mark -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: COLIN RITCHIE Subject: Ordering From abroad & Nationals Hi Guys, Caroline is partly right, I did order my Enterprise from HLJ back in August, and it fianlly arived on monday, Sans VAT, Customs Inspection Cahrges or anything else. Beats me why I didn't get clobbered , since I had to stump up 13 pounds for a US order a week or so before. Seems if you make friends with the Postoffice you be shown some pity! Oh in passing, The nationals passed off very well, thanks for the towel Caroline! May i recommend the beautiful new MTB's in 350th from WEM, they are quite beautiful, with superb casting, as usual, and the cutest little PE fret you've ever seen, quite magnificent, tell all your non boat building friends who are looking to get started in resin ships about them, great piece of work guys as usual. The real suprise were the 350th case resin figures, yes really, so much better than the 2dimensional PE figures we use at present. Caroline was saying that the figures we say were test shots, and that they were working on alternative poses, and clothing. 2 scary things about them, A) there were faces on the test shots, and B) they're working on 700th scale resin figures as well. As for the models on display, an in competion, the usual mix of despair and inspiration, Ian Rusco's Sheffield, AARG..... Colin Ritchie -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Working with brass I have found the best local source of brass is the Railroad shop. They have brass in all sizes and shapes. To make the T sections look right I usually solder them. It takes a bit of practice but once you get the feel for it it's easy and looks pretty good (I've been working in electronics for over 20 years so I've had a bit of experience). You need to get a fairly good soldering tool though. The soldering pencils from Radio Shack just don't cut it. For joining etched brass pieces or rod, I sometimes use solder past which I paint on and then heat the whole thing with a mini-torch. Be sure to always use a bit of flux first. Afterwards, rince the part in solvent. If the piece doesn't lend itself to soldering, I use CA glue. A bit more tricky (I hate having 20mm splinter shields stuck to my thumbs!) but is much thinner than solder. Best regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Mark Kwasnycia Subject: Rawalpindi's Sinking Mr. Foeth, In your post "An informative web site", you seemed to imply that the Royal Navy misunderstood the changed nature of warfare by employing Armed Merchant Cruisers (AMC's). This I seriously doubt, as the employment of AMC's had much more to do with a parsimonious treasury department than a delusional Admiralty. The simple fact is, is that the RN was critically short of all classes of warships upon the commencement of hostilities, and especially short of trade route cruisers. AMC's were never intended to be replacements for properly fitted out warships, but were intended to "plug the gaps" in the numerous patrol areas, that would have been left otherwise completely unprotected. Acting as the "eyes and ears" of the fleet on distant patrols is a role that they performed admirably, but at a very high price, in both ships and men. It should be borne in mind that the German Navy lacked the world wide responsibilities that the RN possessed, which probably had far more to do with the lack of German AMC's than an "enlightened" attitude on the part of the German Admiralty. Yes, AMC's were painfully large targets, with pitiful armament, but in many cases they were the only option available to an extremely thin-stretched Royal Navy. In addition to trade lane protection, they were often the only "escort" available for Atlantic convoys, which served to further highlight their inherent vulnerabilities. This being said, they served with distinction, until they could be replaced by "proper" warships, which were mostly war-built. Thinking that Capt. Kennedy, VC, acted rashly in approaching the Scharnhorst and Gneisenau, can also be readily disputed. Wars are not won by running away, and "running" is something that is distinctly lacking in any Royal Navy Captains training. Throughout the second World War, and indeed in sympathy with practically every engagement throughout their history, the Royal Navy's actions can be easily described as "engage the enemy at all costs", which often results in losses, but also in a tradition of success that is un-matched. No, the Rawalpindi had no hope in surviving the encounter, but she had the ability to tell the world the exact location of two of Germany's precious warships, that the rest of the Royal Navy could now attempt to intercept and destroy. Additionally, if by chance, a "lucky" hit were obtained, there was the hope that the German force may in fact withdraw, instead of proceeding south into the Atlantic life-line, and causing untold destruction amongst the even less well armed convoys. Kennedy simply had no other choice available: Either do his duty, which easily translated into attacking the superior force, or to attempt to withdraw, from ships which he couldn't outpace. Personally, I have often found the fact that the Scharnhorst and Gneisenau retreated back to Germany to be far more puzzling than the fact that the Rawalpindi attacked. Most Royal Navy commanders would have taken the action as the start of a campaign, rather than as the campaign itself. As for either ship being "scared off" by the arrival of H.M.S. Newcastle, comparison of the fighting value of either side leads me to question the Kreigsmarine leadership, rather than Capt. Kennedy's action. Regarding the "new" Rawalpindi: What can you tell us about her. I've often wondered if any ship would perpetuate the name; and she's a P&O as well, which in my book makes it simply perfect! Mark Kwasnycia Ottawa -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Graham Walker" Subject: paint ref Hi can any one help I need the humbrol ref for some IJN colours, hull grey, and tan, and for uss flint in its 3 colour scheme in 1944, None of my local shops stock Tamiya paints and these instruction sheet just says hull grey etc. thanks in advance graham -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Chris Davenport" Subject: Re: Mountbatten Pink. Hi Listees, I hope you all don't mind me jumping in here, although I'm new to the list. I saw one of you wanting colour mixes for Mountbatten Pink. Unfortunately I can't supply the Testors or Tamiya numbers but perhaps someone else can help in that department, but the Humbrol mixes for the two pinks are: Mountbatten Pink (Dark) Humbrol M34 Matt White -- 21 parts Humbrol G15 Midnight Blue --6 parts Humbrol M73 Wine Red -- 62 parts. Mountbatten Pink (Light.) Humbrol M34 White -- 88 parts Humbrol M33 Black -- 9 parts Humbrol M60 Scarlet -- 12 parts. Hope this of some use to you. Incidentally, according to a survivor of one the gunboats in the channel painted in these colours, both mixes produced are exactly as he remembers seeing them. Regards to all Chris Davenport -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: brass rod and Lighting Titanic >> 1) Where do you get the stuff? Is it just plain jane wire from radio shack, or can you buy it at a model shop? I have not been able to find, say, a bag of straight lengths of brass rod (other than the real big pieces you can find at hobby shops that is live 1/32 inches thick).I've tried using the stuff that is rolled (thick wire), but can never get it straight. << I think thatt K&S makes brass rod that is thinner han 1/32. I have never been unable o find anything as thin as I need. You want the K&S stuff nott while because rolled wire is annealed and won't hold shape. You want half hard or hardened stock. >> 2) Do you use brass wire, rod, or tube? Does it matter? << No, nor really, though sometimes the hollowness of tubbing can be of help if you drill it out where you need to pass something through it. >> 3) How do you assemble with brass without it obviously looking like some guy glued together two pieces of brass rod/wire? IE, I've tried to replicate a simple t shaped mast, and the joint just looks awful, all clumpy and whatnot. << Notch the sections where you join them so they fit together withough a large bump. >> 4) Do you actually use glue (cyano, white, etc) to join brass to brass, or do you use some other method, like soldering? << Solder them wherever possible Most glues won't work, and even epoxy and Cyano will give a weak joint unless special joining techniques are used. >> 5) How do you cut lengths of the stuff without the cut end getting pinched? IE, the round cross section of the rod gets distorted (technical term - smooshed) when I cut it. << I generally use a cutoff wheel in a dremel to avoid crimping the ends of the cut. RE LIGHTING TITANIC >> I would suggest one Florissant tube in the hull. The one thing you need to remember using bulbs in plastic models is to have plenty of ventilation to eliminate the heat the bulb and electronics cause. I'm sure you have figured this out. I would hollow out the stacks. That would give more than enough ventilation for the lights. << With the low wattage bulbs he is using, this is a consideration, but not as major as if he had been using larger lamps. Some ventillation should be provided. The use of the stacks is a good idea as it may cause some air movement through the model, thus removing the heat more effeciently >> Just a thought. Sorry, can't help with the electronics. I would suggest a trip to your local Radio Shack. They will be able to get you set up with what you need. << I'd be truly amazed to find anyone at a R-S who actually knew what they were talking about. I think that they are specifically hired for their lack of electronics expertise. I'm generally surprised when a R-S clerk knows which planet he's on!!! Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "K. Hagerup" Subject: 1/600 Civil War Ships Does anyone know the name, address and possibly email or website for the maker of pewter 1/600 Civil War ships? I seem to recall Thoroughbred as the name, but can't be sure. Thanks, Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Malcolm Subject: Internet shopping Sure prices in the US are generally cheaper but : 1) I dont think Hannants would charge £16 postage on a £149 kit. More likely free. 2) In the case of a Tamiya kit its not Tamiya who sets the UK price but the importer who is Riko. I dont think any manufacturer is trying to carve up the world with different prices. 3) The UK retail as you correctly stated includes Vat at 17.5% but also includes import duty (I dont know the rate but it is significant). If you import privately from the US you may be caught for both of these plus a claerance fee from the post office. My estimate on your £149 kit is about £40. You may rest assured that a importer such as Riko certainly will be caught for both VAT and duty and furthermore will have to pay a small fortune to get the goods released from the docks to a shipping agent (Ive been there it hurts) Malcolm ....KingKit -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: "Frank and Carol Berger" Subject: Re: Brass Rod I've always been able to find straight lengths of brass rod at the local hobby shop, although you sometimes have to look for it in the model railroad section. I've been able to find it in sizes down to .005". Two items of invaluable assistance in holding parts together while assembling them are a pair of helping hands and modeling clay. The helping hands are two alligator clips mounted on swivels, attached to sliding bar, with this whole assembly attached to a base. This item is available from Radio Shack for less than $10. I use a c clamp to fasten it to my work table. The clips are positionable, so I can hold two pieces at right angles to fasten them together. I use modeling clay when assembling tripod masts. The ends of wire are inserted into the clay at the proper distance apart, then soldered. A word on soldering. I've never been able to get ordinary solder to work. I go to the local welding supply house and purchase a silver solder kit. The one I use in particular is All-State Dyna-Grip, solder kit no. 430. This includes a small bottle of liquid flux and a 1/16" diameter by 4' long length of silver solder. My Radio Shack soldering iron is sufficient for the task of soldering this material. A word of caution. The flux contains Zinc Chloride and the fumes are hazardous. Do this in a well ventilated space. For keeping the ends from getting smooshed, on larger diameters I use a tube cutter. On smaller diameters, I smoosh the ends and file them back flat. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Celluclay Seas Rusty said: >> How do you overcome the lumpy, oatmeal consistency of the Celluclay? This was another reason I stopped using it. << Are you using "Celluclay I" or "Celluclay II"? Believe it or not they went and came up with an improved version (at least I think so). The earlier stuff was gray and smelled terrible and was basically newspaper pulp. It was, as you say, like working with oatmeal. The new version is white, more or less odorless, and is much smoother to use. It can still turn out lumpy if not thoroughly mixed. (I might even try putting some in a blender next time the wife is out of town.) I've found that carefully spreading it with a wet spatula will work out any stubborn lumps. Another material I use is bathtub sealant -- not the viscous silicone stuff but the white vinyl type that cleans up with water. It's particularly useful in creating bow wave effects. A very inexpensive material; a tube will last for several models. MWL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Cutter Itasca >> I would like to obtain any information regarding the US Coast Guard Cutter Itasca. My father-in-law served aboard this vessel from 1938 to 1940 or 41 so this is a matter of personnel history for my family. << According to D.L.Canney's "US Coast Guard & Revenue Cutters, 1790-1935" the Itasca was launched 16 NOV 29, commissioned 12 JUL 30, stationed in Hawaii until 1937, when the ship was moved to San Diego. Transferred to Britain in May 1941 as HMS Gorleston. Transferred back to USCG in April 1946 and sold in 1950. MWL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: German Radar sets etc. Dave, That's one area that I haven't been much interested in. One of the problems with an 1100 + collection of books, is finding stuff. But two books that do have some drawings and photos are NAVAL RADAR by Norman Friedman, published by the Naval Institute Press, and NAVAL WEAPONS OF WW II, by John Campbell, published by Conway. Both have drawings and photos of FuMO sets. The latter shows where different sets were located on various ships, including PRINZ EUGEN. As regards PE, since she came into U.S. possession at the end of the war, there should be very good material from U.S. sources and archives on her equipment. There is also a series of German language glossy paperbacks on various German ships which have a lot of close up photos. If I come up with more, I'll let you know. Paul Jacobs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: RAWALPINDI By the way, for those who are interested, in London, along the quay by the Tower of London, just by Tower Bridge, there's a small plaque that says that this was the location where RAWALPINDI docked pre-war. I assume that this plaque was placed there in commemoration of the ship after her loss. It is small and largely unnoticed; typical British understatement in a place where every step you take uncovers some historical event. I stumbled upon it in 1968 while visiting the Tower and just ambling along the Thames. I suspect that few if any even notice it, and of those who do, hardly any recognize its significance. Paul Jacobs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: WVeigele@aol.com Subject: PC Patrol Craft I would like to know if any one has made a model of the World War II Patrol Craft designated PC. Only a few models are known to me. One was hand carved from a block of pine by an officer on a PC in 1944. The others were made in recent decades on plastic hulls. Details on the PC Patrol Craft of WWII can be seen at: http://members.aol.com/wveigele/pcraft/pcraft.htm Bill Veigele -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Tim Stoneman Subject: HMS KELLY Various posts have discussed KELLY's colours and modifications; as ever, photos are hard to come by, especially since she was in the Mediterranean, from where very few photos appear to have survived (if there were ever many taken!). Study of the text of Poolman's book may yield some clues, but I don't have it to hand! The only photos I have later than the one on the WEM instructions and shots under tow after the E-boat (S-Boot) incident show her in a light to medium colour (Pink? AP507B or C?). One, captioned "22 May", shows KELLY and others "dropping depth charges" shows a water plume astern and one off either quarter as if she has dropped one charge; the question is whether the second was due to a charge fired from a thrower or from a second shop whose stern is just in shot. She has other modifications (splinter shields to gundecks/searchlight, light AA guns (20mm?) abeam searchlight, 4" gun fitted) and a black leader's band on the funnel, but the picture is fuzzy, and cut off at the funnel, so no indication if any radars were fitted, or what guns were abeam the bridge! The after gun mount is trained on the port quarter, so no clue as to whether she had the stops altered to "park" it forward instead of aft. This photo is too unclear to tell if she had depth charge throwers aft of the superstructure, and the painting on the cover of "Destroyers at War" shows throwers forward of the after superstructure although I don't think there would have been room. Not too helpful, I'm afraid! Tim Stoneman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: Pacific Front Hobbies Subject: Re: Pacific Front Hobbies...still around? Pacific Front Hobbies is still alive and well, but are behind in responding to inquiries and orders, as my wife and I are trying to do the work of 3-4 people at present..we are really swamped. My apologies for the delays, we have been behind 2-4 weeks at times. Bill Gruner http://www.pacificfront.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: John Clements Subject: Re: Brass Rod In answer to John Percy's cry for help, my answers have been: Brass rod can be found at model shops but for 1/700 scale only down to the size for main spars (as supplied in WEM kits). For smaller spars I have used steel spring wire which is bought in a roll but for the short lengths needed can be straightened out. I bought this a long time ago for small model locomotive handrails (a project now abandoned) which have to be straight as well. All these materials can be glued to each other. Yards were mounted in front of or behind masts, so it is actually correct to have a projection at the joint, on pre-modern ships at least. To reduce it a bit, I usually file a small rounded depression in both spars at the joint position Cyano is OK but soldering gives more strength if you are rigging them. This does require carefully cleaning up with a fine file. Finally, the pinched end can be filed down, so cut the pieces slightly overlength. Use of fine wire does present one problem. Even using the finest fly fishing line I could get locally, I have ended up with lumps on the ends of the yards where the line is tied or pulled round the spar, neither have I solved the problem of tying the ends of the line to bits of the ship which do not have convenient rails, but where on plans the line just disappears out of sight behind a screen. Any ideas?? Finally, as I have been away from my home PC for two weeks, this is a late contribution - Greg, I am quite happy with SMML as it is; most of it is only of passing interest to me, but I enjoy reading it and occassionally contributing. Carry on the good work. John Clements -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: Ed Grune Subject: Seeking 16' Dingy & colo(u)r info Hello all: I'm currently working on Iron Shipwright's HMCS SACKVILLE in 1/350. I'ts painted in a WA scheme. I'm ready to start attaching the PE next. However, I'm looking for some 16' dingies to hang from the davits. The kit comes with USN style 26' whaleboats. Caroline, I've checked your list, but alas its all 700 scale. Does anybody have a source? I also have on order the WEM HMS BLUEBELL in 1/700. Raven & Preston's Flower Class Corvettes has an interesting paint scheme in the color plates of the LOOSETRIFE which has caught my eye. Can somebody give me a callout on the colors and mix formulas? Thanks in advance. Ed -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: "Jim Burt" Subject: Re: QE 2 and other liners questions This is my first time to respond back to this list in a long time. If you are looking for some of these kits, you can find the 1/600 Airfix Mauretania at http://www.shipsahoy.com for $35, and the Revell 1/600 United States for the same price. They the Revell 1/570 Titanic for $17 plus shipping and handling. The Revell Titanic is 18.5 inches long, and has little detail, but it makes a great kit. They used to have the France in 600 scale by Airifx also, but don't anymore. You can find the QE 2 at http://www.navalbasehobbies.com for $18, the Canberra at http://www.modelexpo.com for $12. Unfotunately, I'm looking for a kit of the QE 1, but have failed to find some. Shipsahoy is located in Fountain Valley, California, in the US, and they ship world-wide. I have the Mauretania kit, & he told me they have a few left. Hope this has helped, Steve -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: Civil War Ships A dozen 1/35 scale Union & Confederate resin kits can be found at www.modelersboatyard.com at the section from The Naval Base. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) Subject: Re: Plastic Ship Modeler Magazine - Number 18 From: dhjonespsm@juno.com (Daniel H. Jones) Plastic Ship Modeler Number 18 is ready. Articles: Part 1 of a new series by Ray Bean on building the Jim Shirley kit of the 27C ORISKANY and dealing wioth the differences betwen the various FRAM ESSEX class carriers. PETR VELIKIJ class Russian battleship with 1/700 plans. British tramp steamers - Turret Ships and Trunk Steamers - types unique to the period 1880-1912 with two 1/700 plans. More of the superb 1/700 dioramas by Chris Drage (3 pages of photos). HMS KITTIWAKE feature with large scale drawings by John Lambert (first of two parts). Build-up appraisal of Classic Warship's kit of the USS WASHINGTON in 1/350 scale by Ken Summa. Photo feature - ILLUSTRIOUS class carriers in Australia - 1945. Regular features: News - reviews of new products - 8 pages of new kit reviews and product announcements. Kit reviews included in this issue: Plastic kits: Tamiya (1/700) YAMATO & MUSSASHI, O Class DD, Z class German DD, Innex (1/400) submarines ORZEL & SEP, Homtk (1/72) Tupolev G-5 PT Boat, Agnek (1/400) POTEMKIN & AURORA. Resin kits:: Armada (1/350)KOOTENAY, Samek (1/700) ALASKA, HP Models (1/700) ADMIRAL USAKOV (ex KIROV), Delphis Models (1/700) MAESTRALE, EUGENIO DE SAVOIA, Clipper Model (1/700) Canadian pattern Flower class corvette, Kombrig Models (1/700) KIROV (WW II), White Ensign (1/350) SHEFFIELD, Classic Warships (1/700) EMDEN, Corsair Armada GARCIA class DD, CV-4 USS RANGER, Imperial Hobby (1/700) ST. ANDREW (battleship design), Blue Water Navy (1/350) USS SOUTH DAKOTA. Reviews - 3 pages of recent books covering a wide range of subjects useful to ship modelers. One to One Hundred - by Paul Jacobs - news of the latest collector models in 1/1200-1/1250. Navinfotel - news of the real naval world by Ray Bean. Mail Call - our letters colume that is becoming more interesting with every issue. Plastic Ship Modeler is the ONLY magazine devoted exclusively to static models of modern (powered) ships. In every issue you will find all the latest information from around the world on new kits, books, after-market accessories, and news from the real naval world. Plans are included in each issue and subjects are international in scope. Articles deal with both naval and merchantile subjects. Not just about modeling, PSM articles deal equally with the ship's history. Some of our leading authorities have contributed to the pages of PSM, such as Alan Raven, Al Ross, and John Lambert. If you are serious about your hobby, and you do not subscribe to PSM.... WHY NOT???? Subscription rates: (44 pages - published quarterly). $20.00 (4 issues) USA, Canada, and the Americas. $25.00 (4 issues) All other overseas destinations. Sample copy - $5.00 (USA) $6.00 (overseas) postpaid. Plastic Ship Modeler P.O. Box 2183 Arvada, CO 80001-2183 USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume