Subject SMML28/11/98VOL377 Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 21:49:17 +1100 (EST) shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Iowa follow-up 2: Removing moulded ladders 3: Re: ATF Tug 4: Thinning putty 5: HMS Iron Duke 6: nd the NS Savannah 7: Re: NS SAVANNAH 8: Re Putty 9: Re: Putty thinner 10: Re: Cutty Sark references 11: Re: Putty 12: Re: Putty 13: Thinning putty 14: Re: Putty 15: Re: ATF 16: Campbelltown Destoyer 17: Re: Thinning Putty 18: NS Savannah 19: USS REGULUS AF-57 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Thanks! 2: Re: NS Savannah -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Iowa follow-up Jon Sorry, I wasn't being entirely clear. With the resin kits, the casting of the hull, deck, and level 1 superstructure as 1 piece is somewhat dictated by the properties of resin itself (ie casting the hull solid). But I don't see why Tamiya had to mould the level 1 integrally with the middle section of deck in their Missouri kit. It makes the clean seperation of the deck and side colours unnecessarily difficult (if you're using an airbrush). Off topic slightly, I'd like to wish about 80% of this list a happy Thanksgiving. James Morley (London) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "RLOCKIE" Subject: Removing moulded ladders As an alternative to the new scalpel blade (use a curved or a chisel one) or making your own chisels (I have tried the first successfully but not the second), my Swiss Army penknife has an excellent miniature chisel that I have used for this. This works well for steps which are attached to bulkheads. For free-standing steps (like in Skywave's German destroyers), I also have tried successfully to use a square section type dental burr (dentists will give you used ones for nothing) in a mini drill. This will take away the bulk of it but stop before reaching the deck as it makes a real mess of the rest of the deck, so I would still clean up with a blade. It also chews up any superstructure that gets in the way, so unless you are very careful, it is worth using some tape to cover up the adjacent parts. Robert Lockie -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: CapnTroy@aol.com Subject: Re: ATF Tug Call Harbor Models at 310-822-2129, they have the ATF in several scales such as 1/96 and 1/48. Troy Waters -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Cataldo Torelli Subject: Thinning putty Lance King wrote: >> When you use putty on plastic models, do you use any kind of thinning agent to make the putty easier to work and get into tight places? << Hello Lance: I use Tamiya putty thinned with acetone and aplied with an old brush. Apply a thin coat, let dry it for about four hours, sand and repeat if necessary. It works great. Best wishes, Cataldo Torelli Madrid, Spain -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: David.Hathaway@Smallworld.co.uk Subject: HMS Iron Duke >> I am looking to find information about HMS Iron Duke from 1914 - 1929. I own the 1/600 airfix kit but I was hoping to build a large scale RC model of this ship and I can't seem to find much detailed information. << Daniel Plans of HMS Iron Duke as at 1914 at 1/192 scale and HMS Benbow at 1/192 scale are available from WEM - look at their Web site. At this scale they will be well over a meter long - should be big enough for R/C. Regards David -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: McKellar Subject: nd the NS Savannah National Geographic published a short article about the ship in August 1963 I think. I'll send you a photocopy of it if you'd like - there are several useful photos. Mark -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: NS SAVANNAH Dear Sir: Concerning questions #3 about the NS SAVANNAH. The ship was built in Camden NJ by the New York Shipbuilding Corporation (1899-1967).Now 2 things about this the real ship still exists a museum in Patriot's Point South Carolina.They may have a website because it's a big memorial and has the USS YORKTOWN-CV-10.The bad news is this when the shipyard went out of business in 1967 all the ship blue prints were torched because of the sheer volume that was stored .However all the shipyard photos were donated to the Philadelphia Independence Seaport Museum at 211 S. Columbus + Walnut st Philadelphia PA 19106. Sincerely Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Wheelers" Subject: Re Putty Great question - I use Squadron white putty and I have two problems with it... 1) It doesn't sand smooth always - it leaves tiny pits and holes 2) It sometimes melts and deforms the surface of the plastic Can anyone recommend a better brand (in the USA/Canada), or perhaps tell me where I am going wrong? Malcolm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Putty thinner >> When you use putty on plastic models, do you use any kind of thinning agent to make the putty easier to work and get into tight places? << This is an old trick I learned some years ago when I built exclusively aircraft. I thin Squadron Green Putty with Testors liquid cement. You can make the putty as thin or thick as you want, then use a brush to apply it. The only drawback to this is the more liquid cement you add, the more it shrinks. You may have to let the fist application dry and add another coat of putty for deeper seams. Since this stuff is thinned with liquid glue it forms a really tight bond. Rusty White Flagship Models inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Cutty Sark references Ray: You probably should consider subscribing to the Seaways Ships in Scale list, where reside an incredible number of VERY knowledgeable sailing ship model builders. On that list, the sticks-and-string folks far outnumber us plastic/resin types. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Putty I have thinned both Squadron putty and Dr. Microtools putty with Testors liquid cement. It definitely makes the putty easier to work with, and it dries smoother, also. If you thin it sufficiently, you can "paint" the putty into a seam with an old paintbrush. Be careful, though. If the part you are putting the putty on is very thin or small, the addition of all that liquid cement in the putty may destroy or distort the parts. Mike Settle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Putty You will probably get as many answers about putty as there are members of this mailing list. So, here's my two cents.... On some very good advice, I ditched the Squadron Green a few years ago. I use almost exclusively Bondo glazing putty for all my work. This is not the two part Bondo car body stuff, but a single agent in a squeeze tube. It is used to give a smooth final finish on cars that have been repaired with the coarser 2 part Bondo. It is more fluid than the Squadron stuff, and the solvent does not attack plastic as aggressively as the toluene solvent. Feathers real well, sands nicely. Takes a bit longer to dry. I've never had to thin it, as it is more "liquid" than the Squadron putties. Another good putty is the 3M Acryl Blue, but it is a bit more difficult to find. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: Thinning putty I use Tamiya liquid cement to thin Squadron White Stuff, and it works fine. The glue makes it shrink more, so you may need to add a couple of coats. This enables you to paint the putty on, and it does stay in place:) Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Alberto Rada Subject: Re: Putty Hi Some time ago, I discovered Milliput, for modeling ( superfine white ) just mix what you need of both parts, add a bit of water and that's it, its the best putty, it does not shrink, once dry its very hard, it can be sanded without crumbling etc. etc. My one peseta SALUDOS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: ATF >> From: Frank Bayley Subject: ATF Ladies and Gentlemen, a modeler on another list I subscribe to has posted the following question without a lot of positive reponse, so I thought I might ask if anyone here has the answer: >> Does anyone remember models of ATF Fleet Tug/Point-Class Coast Guard Cutter. They were from Staubitz of Buffalo or Dynamic Model Products, or ??? Would like to find one of these kits, originally they were for RC, or static. << Dynamic has not been seen for a while - they may or may not be out of business. You might want to contact The Scale Shipyard. They have the ATF in 1/96 and 1/48 scale, and the newer T-ATF in 1/96 scale. http://members.aol.com/seapics/SSY/SSYMain.htm Good Luck! Kurt SeaPhoto -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: CaptainOD@aol.com Subject: Campbelltown Destoyer I am a new subscriber, and if I am doing this wrong, please accept my apologies. I use to build ship models many years ago, left the hobby, but now I am back. Next to my farm outside of Hershey Pa, there is a very very small town of Campbelltown. On the main (and about only street) is a memorial to the Campbelltown ship used in what I believe was the attempt to blow up docks in France. In the case is a model which I believe is the 1/72 kit (the scale I work in) of the USS Ward by Combat Models. Who ever did it did a great job. My question is how in the world did a lend-lease ship get the name of a small town in the PA Dutch/Amish country? We are hundreds of miles from the ocean, or anything British. Of course, nobody in the town has a clue (being a Vet, I stopped at the VFW for beer and infro, plenty of beer, no infro). I plan on doing two versions of the Ward based on the old Leeward (sp) book, but am very interested in a Campbelltown if anyone knows of a source of information on this ship in US and British service. I understand Floating Drydock has 1/72 fittings that I can use, but any other 1/72 sources of parts or fittings would be greatly appreciated. If I may, I have one other strange question. Back when I did modeling in the 70's there was a gentleman in the Maryland area I believe who did a tremendous range of ship turret/gun plans and other things like WW1 Naval guns on railway cars. Does anybody know who or if these are still available? Many thanks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Thinning Putty Lance asked >> When you use putty on plastic models, do you use any kind of thinning agent to make the putty easier to work and get into tight places? << Tube putty, such as Squadron Green and Squadron White Putty, can be thinned with Testor's Liquid Cement (and probably other solvents, too). Block putty -- epoxy putty, A+B, plumber seal, Milliput and other brands -- can be thinned with water. Mike L -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: NS Savannah Addition information: I looked up the NS Savannah and found out that in 1995 she was removed from the museum. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: PulligS@aol.com Subject: USS REGULUS AF-57 I have posted about the REGULUS before. She went on the rocks in Hong Kong in 71. I think I have posted a pic of her "ON THE ROCKS" on the picture post. It was 85 KB in JPG so it should down load. Hope this works. Sam Pullig Beaumont Texas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Pacific Front Hobbies Subject: Thanks! We are thankful that our business is doing quite well now, mainly due to our loyal clientele. Our only regret that we would like to express to you is that we have gotten quite far behind in our order processing and e-mail answering as a result of increased business; we sincerely apologize for that. Many thanks to you again, our customers. We would also like to express thanks to our suppliers and vendors, who have done an excellent job of supplying us with quality shipmodeling products...keep up the great work. We wish you a prosperous and happy Thanksgiving and holiday season. Bill and Deborah Gruner Pacific Front Hobbies -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: NS Savannah >> OB modelling question: are there any good reference sites online or books about the NS Savannah? I'm going to build the Glencoe 1/350 despite its failings. << I have a set of pictures taken onboard the Savannah while she was still at Patriot's Point. If you contact me directly, I can supply price and order information. Kurt SeaPhoto Maritime Photography -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume