Subject: SMML13/02/99VOL455 Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 23:15:47 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Hull Painting 2: Re: Harusame and linoleum decks 3: Re: TANEY 4: Re: USS America review 5: Re: Representative ships 6: Coast Guard Ships 7: CSS Manassas color 8: USCG Flower Class Corvettes 9: Re: Harusame DD questions (modeling water) 10: Re: Representative Ship for USN 11: Re: New Revell kits 12: Re: USCG Flower Class Corvettes 13: HMS Rodney's 1944 fit. 14: Re: Upcoming titles from WR Press - your input requested 15: Canadian Tribal Class destroyers 16: Survey 17: Re: 1/350 Floating Drydock 18: Re: Representative Ship 19: Mounting a kit on a base 20: Hobby shops in Paris 21: Bits for a ship 22: Re: Techmod-innex models (SMML09/02/99Vol451) 23: White Stuff Again? 24: Radars on Gneisenau 25: Cammo colours -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: 1/350 Decals: Allied Naval Signals, Pennants & Flags 2: Subchaser Availability 3: Re: FAIRMILES 4: NEW BOOKS and 1/192 aircraft -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: jakloek@kodak.com Subject: Re: Hull Painting Getting paint to stick to some resin hulls is a problem I have encountered too. Some mold release agents seem to combine with the resin chemically to produce a surface which behaves like teflon, and can not be washed off, even with repeated applications of oven cleaner. The solution I came to was old fashioned Comet cleanser, the kind that still is gritty. I have applied it to the hull, and then scrubbed with an old toothbrush. The cleaser does just enough mechanical abrasion to the surface to allow paint to stick, but does not to scratch it up too much. The advantage of this over sanding is that you can also use it on decks, etc, where detail is molded on (or in). It will reach into cracks, etc, and not round off any sharp edges. In terms of masking, I also like draftsman's tape for its low tack. Additionally 3M makes vinyl tapes in a variety of widths (some quite small), which are quite good, They also are low tack, and give a nice sharp edge. They are commonly available in the US at least. Frisket paper is also good, quite low tack, and you can cut it to any shape you want. I wouldn't use it to mask waterlines, but it is great if you are doing something like a dazzle scheme in 1/700. James Kloek -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "FERNANDO, YOHAN" Subject: Re: Harusame and linoleum decks Nowfel, I can't answer all the specifics about the Harusame you asked, but regarding the linoleum decks, these were originally installed on all the IJN destroyers but removed during the war when it was found that the linoleum was flammable. Individual ships had the linoleum removed at different times and I don't think there are many records telling which ship got it removed at what time. So, even in 1944, you could probably argue that a number of ships may still have had linoleum on their decks. If you are modelling the ship pre-war, I would guess the linoleum was there. Any time after that, you might have a bit of artistic license (unless someone has some specific documentation for the ship). I also noticed that some of the waterline IJN destroyer kits don't have any indication of linoleum decks while others do- the Hasegawa Hayanami has the moldings for the horizontal tie down strips, while others like the Harusame do not. You could just put your faith in the model companies and assume they did their research (although that isn't always the case!) Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "John E. Fail" Subject: Re: TANEY TReynaga@edd.ca.gov, I was stationed on Taney in 1959-1961. The Revell model is very close to how it appeared in 1959. 1. Remove the stern release depth charges 2. Remove the last two depth charge racks/k-guns/davits on port and starboard sides (the aft ones) 3. Leave the depth charge racks and k-guns that are just forward and aft of the overhangs on the aft end of the deck house. 4. Remove the 20mm machine guns on the overhangs in 3. above 5. The focsle (forward of the 5" gun) shows a wood deck. It was metal painted blue deck gray. 6. Aft of the bitts in between the stern release traps was also metal painted deck gray. 7. The callsign decal supplied with the kit is NRDC, this is incorrect. All of the "secretary" class cutters had a call sign of NRD_ with the last letter being the initial of the ships name. NRDC was CAMPBELL, the TANEY was NRDT. Other than that the model is very, very similar to how she appeared in 1959. All the best John Fail, QMC USCG (retired) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Re: USS America review As the reviewer hints, the standard of the aircraft is abysmal in all of the Italieri Supercarrier releases. I would strongly recommend replacing them with the Skywave USN aircraft sets. At the moment (depending on the set) these include good decals for USS Nimitz, USS Eisenhower, and USS Independence. Additionally, at least one of the sets is manufactured in clear plastic for canopy realism. If you want a visual comparison to the Italieri aircraft before buying, look up the sets on the HobbyLink Japan site (http://www.hlj.com) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "mkrumrey" Subject: Re: Representative ships I have been following this thread and decided to put in my two cents worth: (I hope someone is tabulating the results?) (I'll be doing it shortly: Shane) For the U.S. :U.S.S. Enterprise for the many stated reasons, although a second would be the attack transports as they took the battle to the Japanese Army and Navy ashore. U.K. H.M.S. Hood D.K.M. Bismarck Canada: A Corvette Japan: Yamato, with Akagi 2nd Australia: Canberra I am not familiar enough with the other Navies to render an opinion. Thanks Shane for the list. I really enjoy reading it, and look forward to it every day. Mark Krumrey New Richmond, WI Recovering from an "Alberta Clipper" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: WVeigele@aol.com Subject: Coast Guard Ships Bill, Early in WWII the Navy had gun boats designated PG. Coast Guard crews served on other escort ships such as the PCs described in the book "PC Patrol Craft of WWII" that is reviewed by Rob Mackie on the Warship website and is at: http://members.aol.com/wveigele/pcraft/pcraft.htm. For information on other CG ships you might send email to Joe Kleinpeter of the Coast Guard Combat Veterans Association at : pointbanks@aol.com. Good hunting. Bill Veigele -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: JGordon262@aol.com Subject: CSS Manassas color Jon wrote >> I'm looking for any info on the C.S.S. Manassas. Mostly the color she was painted above and below the water line << I just returned a book to the library called "Iron Afloat, the Ironclads of the Confederate Navy". In it is an account from a Union sailor who describes the Manassas as "lead" colored. Tony Gibbons' book "Warships and Naval Battles of the Civil War" includes a side and top view drawing of this vessel in which it is depicted as medium grey overall with a darker grey stack. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: USCG Flower Class Corvettes Bill They were modified Flower Class Corvettes and were transferred to the USN under a reverse lend-lease scheme. Former identities were as follows:- PG92 Haste ex HMS Mandrake PG93 Intensity ex HMS Milfoil PG94 Might ex HMS Musk PG95 Pert ex HMS Nepeta They were built in Canada (Morton Shipyard) for the RN but were transferred to the USN in 1943. The USN gave up 8 Flowers it had on order. After the war they went to mercantile use. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Harusame DD questions (modeling water) To make a sea base, you can use a light panel diffuser as mentioned, although it would not be my method of choice. Since the area of water modeled in 1:700 is realatively small, I'd recommend using either acrylic gel or Das Pronto (which I use), a pre-mixed paper mache putty sold in small blocks. That said, I suggest carefully cutting out the diffuser panel where the hull will fit in. Make a paper tracing and use that a template, making the opening smaller than needed and slowly expanding it to the right size while repeatedly checking the fit. An alternate is to use aluminum foil to simulate the water. This is attached to a wood base using spray adhesive and allows you to crush the foil down under the hull. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: Representative Ship for USN From: "Katz, Gene S" >> OK, since all Submariners know that there are only two types of ships, i.e., Submarines and Targets, << I thought Captain Walker successfully argued that they were the same thing... Caroline Carter White Ensign Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: New Revell kits Hi Chaps, Having now thoroughly examined the Revell 1/700 Invincible kit, and spent all day with ARK ROYAL, ILLUSTRIOUS and INVINCIBLE plans, we have come to various conclusions... the ex-Skywave weapons set that is included does contain some serious inaccuracies and overscale oddities such as the rather tall Seadart... more 1/350 than 1/700!! The funnels are of course too short and also have incorrect funnel uptake grille arrangements.. other items have been found and noted.. >> I got the new catalog from Revell. They are advertising the following new ship kits: HMS Ark Royal, 1/700, III/99 HMS Manchester, 1/720, I/99 The Manchester Kit is really announced as being in 1/720 scale, but I'd rather think this is a printing error and the scale is in fact 1/700. Ark Royal will probably be a copy of the Invicible kit. << If they do this it will be totally wrong, as Ark Royal (we are talking the current support carrier, not the earlier Arks here, just to make things clearer) was commissioned with a higher and longer ski-jump and a CIWS, amd poss. a raised foc'sle which the Invince kit doesn't have... there is a poss. that they have engineered the Revell kit to take Ark parts, which would mean another sprue of parts would be included with that kit. We have an Invincible correction upgrade set now being patterned by Brian Fawcett..... we are also doing an early Illustrious conversion as well. We will wait and see how accurate the Revell/Shanghai Dragon Ark Royal is before we commit ourselves to an Ark conversion from the Invincible kit (sorry Graham!) The Manchester they are referring to IS out on sale and is the old 1/700 Skywave stetched Type 42 destroyer kit. >> Leander kit? If so, I'll pick one up! Go nice with my (partly scratch-built) semi-scale, once the light gets better & I finish her! << Sorry old chap, it's out of production.. we MIGHT be able to dredge up the small parts for one if we got a definite order (still having a pig of a job trying to get the old patterns out of our former caster, Rutland... but that's another tale..) What about a nice 1/350 HMS Brilliant to spice up the modern RN department??? Caroline Carter White Ensign Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: USCG Flower Class Corvettes HASTE, INTENSITY, MIGHT, and PERT were all Canadian-built FLOWERs, built for the USN. Source: Elliott, Peter. _Allied Excort Ships of World War II: A Complete Survey_. London: Macdonald and Jane's, 1977. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: CHRIS DRAGE Subject: HMS Rodney's 1944 fit. Hi fellow SMMeLies, Need a bit of info again - my references and sources have sadly ground to a halt. The next Dio I am proposing building is to depict HMS Rodney during 7.6.44 bombarding the Normandy coast. I need to ascertain the differences in fit compared with her well publicised 1942 one. Does anyone have drawings, photos or any source which can verify her '44 fit? Cheers - happy modelling. Regards, Chris He tao rakau e taea te karo, tena he tao kupa kaore e taea te karo.... (Te reo Maori) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: roberto paredes Subject: Re: Upcoming titles from WR Press - your input requested Hi, Cadman wrote: >> But I would really like to see a book on The Brooklyn Class Light cruisers (including St. Louis and Helena). These cruisers served in all kinds of actions on both oceans and were there from the beginning. << Like Cadman, I have a suggestion, don't forget the Brooklyn class. These ships fought in many places, and they served to many countries for a long time before the WW2. One of them until 1992!!! (the last cruiser in service of the WW2). Roberto. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Brian Selzler Subject: Canadian Tribal Class destroyers Hi John L., If you don't mind doing a little conversion work, it's possible to turn a 1/700 Tamiya O-Class into a Tribal. I recently built HMCS Huron by splicing a 1/2 inch section into the "O" midships, reshaping the stem with a little more concave rake and narrowing and rounding the stern. Then, I carved a couple of new funnels and some twin 4.7 mounts and it started to look pretty good. Things slowed down a bit while figuring out the deckhouse and gun platform arrangements that are specific to the RCN tribals but, Peter Hodges "Tribal Class Destroyers" was a great help with that. Probably what it needs now is WEM's photo-etch set of Tribal fiddly bits to ice the cake. A good thing about the Tamiya kit is you get two ships in the one box so, the first one can be your prototype and the second one for showing. Actually, I'm so pleased with the Huron I think I'll build the other 26 Tribals too. Brian Selzler Kamloops, BC (snow on the hills, dry in the valley) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Robert Weilacher Subject: Survey Dear Friends, All the talk of representative national ships has sparked an idea that I have seen in armor modelling magazines - a survey of most requested kits to be done in plastic or resin. I do not recall it being done before, but PSM or SMML may have since my memory is a short one typically. I propose that I take a e-mail survey - send me a list of ONLY your top three choices (in order) - specifying: ship name or class scale approx. year or ship representation All first choices will receive 3 points, seconds 2 points, third choices 1 point. I will then make a final list and post the results on SMML as well as send it to any and all manufacturers I can get e-mail addresses for. The survey will be conducted starting today and ending on 2/21/99. The honor code will be in effect (i.e. - only send your choices once). If you don't like this idea, let me know why (not all ideas are good). Lastly, I have a slower modem - do not send any attachements, etc. Looking forward to some interesting results, Rob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: louellet@uism.bu.edu Subject: Re: 1/350 Floating Drydock Andy wrote: >> Does anyone know where I can get a 1/350 floating drydock to put the USS Salem in. << I've never heard of a 1/350 scale floating drydock, has anyone else? I know that Skywave makes a 1/700 scale drydock that has a Fletcher class destroyer in it. I don't know of any floating drydock models. Does one of the plans services have plans for one of these? That is probably your only hope (to scratchbuild). Andy, if you did have a floating drydock in this size, wouldn't it obscure the ship model in it? Larry Ouellette Quincy, Massachusetts, USA Volunteer, USS Salem (CA 139) U. S. Naval & Shipbuilding Museum http://www.uss-salem.org/ USS Salem model kit information is available at the web site -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "msyoung" Subject: Re: Representative Ship I also would probably have to weigh in for Enterprise as the most representative ship of WW2 for USA, but let me throw in another possible contender; U.S.S. Arizona. My reasoning is this ship, like the Alamo or Maine in wars many years before, galvanized a nation to victory in a way nothing else could. Just a thought. UK - Hood Germany - Graf Spee (bet I'm the only vote on this one) France - Strasbourg Japan - Akagi Italy - V V Mike Young -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: valiant@home.com Subject: Mounting a kit on a base Hello all. I've been trying to figure out for a month how to mount my resin 2 piece hull 1/350th arizona on a very nice hunk of white ash hardwood I swiped from work. I have ash 1 1/4 dowel to mount the ship to(between the ship and the ash base), I been trying to figure it out..? I was thinking I should drill a hole in the bottom of the hull, (part way thu) and another hole part way thu in the ash dowel, then place a solid brass rod in the dowel, giving the model something to keep it from falling off the stand. Or could i drill holes right thu the resin lower hull? I don't even want to think of trying that as resin is rather brittle. With plastic kits, I just drill a hole in the bottom of the hull into the dowel and use a couple of good screws and washers. this would mean I have to mount the ship to the base after finishing the lower hull but before I glue down the top deck. on the other hand it makes it way easier to handle the ship when building it....anywho any help at all would be great. thanks in advance guys Aaron Propper modeler on the loose -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "João Guerra" Subject: Hobby shops in Paris Hello SMML: I am in Paris and will be here for a few days. Can someone recomend good hobby shops here ? In particular 1/700 and 1/1250 ships. I would also like to go to a good nautical bookshop, sugestions ? Thanks in advance. Joao Andrade Guerra -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "STEWART DAVIS" Subject: Bits for a ship To whom it may concern, I am trying to source enhancement kit(s) for the 1:72 scale Flower class corvette produced by Revell/Matchbox. Could you point me in the right direction please if these still exist. Thanks, Stewart Davis -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: "David & Alicja Lombard" Subject: Re: Techmod-innex models (SMML09/02/99Vol451) Tom's Modelworks has some 1/400 railing sets--both 2-bar and 3-bar. I got the 2-bar; they were very nicely done. David Lombard Rossmoor, Orange County, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Greg Lee Subject: White Stuff Again? Hi, I have just been doing some rigging, and have been using an accelerator with some zap to speed things up a bit. As we all know, it leaves behind a white powdery substance. I have tried rubbing alcohol to try and move it, but have not had much luck. Anybody got any tips for me? Thanks Greg Lee -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Sören Karlsson" Subject: Radars on Gneisenau I'm building Hellers 1/400 kit of Gneisenau. Does anyone know where the radars were located? On a drawing of Scharnhorst I have, the radars are located on the top and aft rangefinder. Was it the same on Gneisenau? Regards Soren Karlsson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: "murray humphries" Subject: Cammo colours Would any one know where I can obtain cammo patterns for the Olympic class liners? Many thanks Murray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Tom & Carolyn Harrison" Subject: 1/350 Decals: Allied Naval Signals, Pennants & Flags New 1/350 scale decal sheet available through Tom's Modelworks "Allied Naval Signal Pennants & Flags" This set represents the naval flags and pennants used by the United States and Great Britain from 1934 to the present. The numerical pennants represented on the sheet however were not adopted by the British until 1949. Cost per sheet is $6.00 within the continental United States and $7.00 outside the US, this price includes shipping. Additional Pennant and Flag sheets in other scales are currently under development. Within the next couple of days you will be able to view this sheet on my web site and the Warship site. Tom's Modelworks 1050 Cranberry Dr. Cupertino, CA 95014 www.tomsmodelworks.com we do accept Visa & MasterCard -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "James M. Pasquill, II" Subject: Subchaser Availability http://www.globaloutlet.com/store/ I found the subchaser kit in stock from the dealer listed above for $11.69 plus shipping. Jim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: FAIRMILES Hi Guys, Re Fairmiles, we have the following 3 items underway in 1/350... each will carry an extensive etched brass detail set, and will all be full hull... prices not confirmed yet, but we ARE taking reservations. WEM NS 004 1/350 Fairmile 'D' MGB 660 1943 6pdr, single/twin Oerlikons, 40mm Single WEM NS 005 1/350 Fairmile D ASR Launch 017 1945 WEM NS 006 1/350 Fairmile D MTB 605 1944 TTs, Twin Oerlikon, 6pdr,30mm, Twin Vickers 0.5 inch Cheers!! Caroline C. White Ensign Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: NEW BOOKS and 1/192 aircraft Just arrived this morning; ALL WEM "Dockyard Mateys" dockyard sections and buildings, trucks and tanks in 1/700 scale. AJ Press (Polish text) auth. Waldemat Trojca, Number 11 "U-Bootwaffe 1939-1945 Part Two. 72 pages, softbound. Full of photographs, fold-out facsimile of builder's plans (1:100 Scale) for Type VIIC U-431 to U-434, dated 1940. Colour/camou drawings inside and back covers. Large fold-out operational map, several nicely done 1/200 Scale profile drawings. 9.99 pounds plus postage. BS Press/Profile Morskie (Polish text), auth. Slawomir Brzezinski, Japanese Heavy Cruiser Tone Number 13 in the series. Usual Profile format... 48 pages A4 s/b, many photos. However, the main attraction of this title is the extent and quality of drawings. From the 1:200 Scale aircraft to the splendid 1:400 Scale Plan and Profile of her in 1944, all in all, 20 x A4 pages worth of superb detail drawings, including 2 pages of these same drawings in 1/700 scale.. perfect for detailing that Aoshima kit. A snip at 6.99 pounds Also restock on: BS Press/Profile Morskie No.11 IJN Fuso Japanese Battleship 6.99 Monografie Morskie Number 8 ADMIRAL SPEE, ADMIRAL SCHEER 9.99 Number 6 HMS Hood 9.99 Number 7 DKM Lutzow/Deutschland 9.99 Brilliant titles for detailing your models. The text may be Polish but (as Dave originally quoted), the pictures are in English! Restock on "CAP 192" aircraft. We are looking at high quality, small scale production, accurate white metal naval aircraft, principally for the large-scale carrier builder. Each plane is 5.00 pounds. Choose from Hellcat, Firefly, Seafires, Corsairs,Helldivers, Avengers. Restock on Interavia 1/72 Tupolev G-5 Russian Torpedo Boat 15.38 pounds Cheers! Caroline Carter, Business Manager, White Ensign Models, http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume