Subject: SMML28/02/99VOL470 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:48:32 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: deck swastikas on KM ships 2: Re: Empress of Asia/Russia 3: Re: Anchor Chain. 4: Re: Great White Fleet models 5: Tamiya Parts 6: Ordering Kits On Line 7: Re: Heller's HMS VIctory 8: Re: Casting Blocks 9: Re: Chain 10: Carrier Deck Numbers 11: Re: FSM new kit releases 12: Samek Konigsberg 13: Re: Dedalo (USS Cabot) 14: Re: Model Chain 15: Re: 1/200 Wiking ships 16: Re: Modeling Realistic Water -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Atlanta class cruiser volume -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: DKrakow105@aol.com Subject: Re: deck swastikas on KM ships >> plus big swastikas on the bow and stern. It seems clear from the swastikas that the captain wanted positive identification by the Luftwaffe. << It was common practice to cover over deck swastikas with a grey tarpulin according to the tactical situation. For example, I have a close up photo of Admiral Thiele and Captian Brinkman strolling over a tarp spread across the afterdeck swastika of the Prinz Eugen. Canvas would most probably rot away during 50 years underwater, therefore the exposed swastikas on the deck of Bismarck's wreck can't really be used to support the yellow turret top theory. It was another KM air-recognition practice to cover over turret tops with colored canvas panels. Prinz Eugen veterans I spoke to recall changing these panels on their ship. If the Bismark's turrets were ever yellow, given weather conditions, it would seem more likely that colored panels would have been used, if at all. For the record, I posed the yellow turret top question to Paul Hillen, a Bismark survivor. He also did not recall seeing the yellow color. That was in the fall of 1998, sadly,He passed away this Winter. Isn't there anyone in the UK who can interview British sailors and airmen who saw the Bismark in her final hours? In the famous RN transmission concerning yellow paint on the Bismarck what does "gun shields" refer to? Cheers Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Steve New" Subject: Re: Empress of Asia/Russia Hi All, My thanks to all who have answered my questions. You have given me some excellent starting points for further research, and all of the answers have given me confidence that the end result will be as accurate as possible. Thanks again Best regards Cheers Steve :-)) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: BEN8800@aol.com Subject: Re: Anchor Chain. Model Expo has recently added 42 link per inch chain to their fittings line. They have chain from 11 link up to 42 link and its all nice looking chain. Ben Lankford -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: DKrakow105@aol.com Subject: Re: Great White Fleet models Hi Someone asked about the whereabouts and history of the contemproary 1:48 scale models of the Great White feet. According to PC Cokers book, they were built to show the folks in the middle of the USA what a fine fleet their tax money went to pay for. I had no idea they went on tour with the circus however. The models, at least some of them, are currently at the Smithsonian. I have seen one in the flesh, they are extemely well made. Cheers Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Jakloek@aol.com Subject: Tamiya Parts Continuing a thread, my son is building a Tamiya half-track (yes, I am raising a tread head), and he lost a part. I called Tamiya America, and told them what had been lost. They went and checked, had the part, and sent it right out, no charge. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Jakloek@aol.com Subject: Ordering Kits On Line I have recently placed two orders for kits on line, and thought I would pass on my experience. I placed an order with Hobby Link Japan on January 30, and immediately got a reply from their computer saying they had received the order. On February 4, I received another note, saying that they had 4 of the 5 items in stock, and needed to back order the fifth. I sent them a note back cancelling the out of stock item, and asking them to ship the remaining kits. On Februray 19 I got a note saying the items had been shipped, and I received them on February 24. The second order was with Bill Gruner at Pacific Front. I sent him a note on February 7, and had a reply on Feb. 9, saying he had the items, and would send them out later in the week. I received them the next week, about Feb 16. I think HLJ is good for older kits (eg Tamiya Scharnhorst) on which they have very good prices. But even in the best of circumstances, it took almost a month to get the kits. On newly released items, their prices are not that much better than what you can get in domestic mail order houses, and in my opinion, they are not worth the trouble and wait. The kits I got from Bill were a couple of very nice Samek resin ships, and the service was excellent. These kits would probably not have been available too many other places. One other watch out with HLJ, they list their prices in yen. If you have to wait very long for backordered items, the value of the yen relative to your own currency can change significantly (about 25% last fall), and that bargain you ordered can turn out to be much more expensive than you thought. Bottom line, like in all things, shop around, and do what makes sense. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Lars Orloff" Subject: Re: Heller's HMS VIctory Bill, I'm working on the same kit, although I don't plan to make such a big project of it as you are. With over 2100 parts, it's a big enough job straight from the box. I'm finishing up step 8, but I've already dry fitted the rest of the decks to get a feel for the fit and look of the finished hull. In addition to finding several major fit problems, I was also trying to judge how "visible" the upper gundeck is from the main deck. I also plan on fully "dressing" all of the visible guns, and I think you'll be safe in dressing the five guns on each side of the upper gundeck at the waist of the ship. That is, the guns that would occupy the fourth through eighth gunports on the upper gundeck (counting aft from the bow). If you want to be completely safe, dress the third through ninth gunport-occupying guns on that deck. Another benefit to dry-fitting the major hull parts is that, in a long project like this where you might not be able to see the "light at the end of the tunnel," you can see what the finished hull will look like when completed. This was enough to excite and motivate me to resume construction when I took a year off from working on Victory. I'm probably a week off from attaching the stern galleries piece - a part it took me over a month to hand-paint, and I can't wait. Hang in there, and let me know if you have any more questions. I just might have a few for you. Lars Orloff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Casting Blocks >> I think I know what resin casting blocks are. But you guys better tell me. How do you remove them? I'm still new to resin modeling. << Casting blocks are a form of sprue, more accurately a riser, that occurs when resin parts are molded in molds arranged to have the liquid resin poured into the top of the cavity. There are basically 2 types; one is a Flat plug like pad that occurs when an open top mold is used. It can only be used when the entire bottom of the part is flat. He other is the more traditional riser in the form of a cone, cylinder or web at the "highest" portion of the mold cavity. Typical here would be he web like par along the keel line of a hull when the hull is molded deck down (the usual case) The web blocks. like on a hull are cut away with saws and then the hull is sanded to final shape. The flat plugs are usually sanded down with sandpaper glued to a flat surface like a plate of thick glass or a hardwood block. I personally use diamond coated saws and cylinders in a dremel to remove/power grind as much of the block/sprue/riser away as possible before final sanding to shape. Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: SWO77@aol.com Subject: Re: Chain For those interested, A local shop here carries chain in various sizes, the smallest of which is 40 links per inch. I use this on my 1/350 ships and it looks great and fits perfectly in the hawsepipes of my Spru-can. Model railroad shops should have this size of chain as well. On a different note, thanks to all who answered re: my questions about photoetch. As it is somewhat costly, I'm already working on an alternative solution. Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Carrier Deck Numbers Hello All, I'm working on the deck numbers and letters for US carriers and was wondering if anyone knew what there dimensions were. I can get close from the photographs, but I was wondering if there were actual dimensions specified for them. I checked Norman Friedman's book, but there was nothing in there on the size of the numbers. Thanks. Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: FSM new kit releases Hi Rusty Yes I'm interested in the list and can you please scan it and send me a copy. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Jakloek@aol.com Subject: Samek Konigsberg I recently purchased the Samek 1/700 kit of the German light cruiser Konigsberg. I have some questions I hope someone can help with. The kit instructions say the kit represents the 1929 fit of the ship. Just forward of the aft triple turrets, there are two AA gun mounts. The kit supplies two mounts that do not look much like any German AA weapon I am familiar with. They each have two, fairly long barrels, almost like twin 88mm, but they don't look typical at all. The one source I have, Breyer's German Navy at War, The Battleships, has a very good photograph of the Konigsberg in 1934, and in this spot are two single, short barrel 88mm mounts which the text describes as WWI vintage. So my question is, which is correct for the late '20s-early 30's? Was the Konigsberg commissioned with something different from what the photo clearly shows? Another question I have concerns color. I know this has been discussed before, but there is always someone not paying attention. Prewar Kriegsmarine ships were two shades of gray, darker on the hull, and lighter for the superstructure. Any suggestions for what paints to use for these two colors? How about the decks? A final question is railings. While the kit comes with a small photoetch fret, no railings are included. Can I use GMM three bar railings, or would two bar be better? Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: James Corley Subject: Re: Dedalo (USS Cabot) In a private email ECammeron@aol.com wrote, I thought Id share the info with all: >> James: Thanks for the comments. I hadn't looked at the O-1 level until I read your message. Also, from my references, I think that 40-mm tub may well be wrong. Since it is the late style tub, I hadn't planned to use it, although I think I could use the Mk 51 Director Tub.<< Mine had 2 sets of 40mm tubs, the early twin tubs and the late quad tubs. The twin tubs were used for ships completed with the standard AA fit (midwar config) and the Quad tubs were part of the "Emergency AA refit" program from 44 onward. The Mk51 dsirector tub is used only with the quad tubs. >> But last night I tried test fitting some of the superstructure and I got a bit of a fright. When you built yours, did you have any problems getting the mast to be at the correct near vertical angle? In my test fitting, as soon as I attached the navigating bridge, the mast had to angle back at a 30 degree angle. There isn't much in the instructions, let alone any mention of fitting the mast. << The mast fit that way on mine, too.....but it fits the same way without the conversion set. The prblem is the angle on the tab at the bottom of the mast. You can either warm it and rebend it to a 10 degree sweep or cut off the tab (makes it unstable and unriggable) and install the mast at the 10 deg sweep. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Robert A. Clifton, R.A." Subject: Re: Model Chain >> Does anyone know if someone makes "correct looking" anchor chain? << I have found that a company called Builders in Scale makes an oval chain in 12, 15 and 40 links per inch. Each come in 18" lengths (12" with the 12 links/inch set), and either black or brass. In 1/350 scale, the 40 links set works out to 8.75" links (17.5" in 1/700), and the 15 links set works out to be 23.3" links. The smaller size is beautiful. It is not jewelry, so the links are true ovals. I'm not sure where you can find this stuff, I got some at a local shop closing. I'd try you local railroad shop. Probably Walthers as well. It's about $3.00 each if I recall. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Ron and Louise Crawford Subject: Re: 1/200 Wiking ships Can anyone provide information on a series of 1/200 scale model German warships made by Wiking Modellbau in Berlin, Germany circa 1938-40. They look about like the 1/500 USN Teacher Scale ID models. Gray overall, with hardwood hulls and superstructures, large fittings in Cyanolit (about the same as Bakelite), and small fittings either Cyanolit and white metal. They were used mainly for exhibits. A set remains on display at the Marine-Ehrenmal at Laboe but has been modified and refinished over the years. I would like to restore those I have found to original standard. Ron Crawford -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Modeling Realistic Water >> I just purchased the Tamiya 1:350 scale version of the Bismarck Battleship. What brass sets do you know of for it. I am also looking for tips on how to make a water diorama for it. Mainly, how do you make the water. Is it a gel or what, if it is what about painting techniques. << Check out the next issue of Internet Modeler. I have an article there that's just what you need. It's called "Modeling Realistic Water in Large Scale" and covers everything from making water with Gel Medium to modeling 30' North Sea waves. I used a Bismarck to do the North Sea stuff. It was printed up in one of FSM's "Modeling WW 2" or something like that. Internet Modeler should have the article up in March at: http://www.internetmodeler.com/ Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. Ships and Tips http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: WRPRESSINC@aol.com Subject: Atlanta class cruiser volume Atlanta Class Cruisers in World War Two is now available, in this volume is over 170 photos, a color section showing camouflage patterns, and a large scale fold-out set of plans of the San Diego. Available from hobby shops and book shops. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume