Subject: SMML10/03/99VOL480 Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 00:39:00 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: IJN Tone decks 2: Re: Armored cruiser OLYMPIA, UNITED STATES photos 3: Teakwood decks 4: Re: HMS Victory/USS Constitution 5: Re: Source for Props. 6: More Radford Stuff 7: Yellow ochre for HMS Victory 8: Removing Future floor finish 9: Re: Fuso Book 10: Re: Fuso Book 11: Removing Future Wax 12: Guam cb-2 13: Atlanta Class Cruisers 14: Re: Polish Books 15: HMS Collingwood Address -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: INTERNET MODELER 2: APMA meeting this Saturday -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Damian Pliszka Subject: IJN Tone decks Hi all, Anyone knows if all decks were covered with linoleum? I found that only main deck was (without deck above torpedo tubes). Any ideas? Damian -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: WestCelt@aol.com Subject: Re: Armored cruiser OLYMPIA, UNITED STATES photos I am interested in contacting this individual who has photographs of SS United States. John C. Driscoll -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: ALTON007@aol.com Subject: Teakwood decks I'm building the 1/350 Salem and put to dark of paint on the deck. What's the best way to remove the paint and what color do you BM's want me to use for the teakwood deck........ Andy GM3 I don't care what the weather is top side because IM at work 90ft underground. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: HMS Victory/USS Constitution These ships are of a period a bit earlier than "The Paint Guys" are handling. HOWEVER...this thread was discussed at length on the Seaways-Shipmodeling List within the last year (said list being made up mostly of those good craftsmen who build in wood and concentrate on things with sails). I don't know if the list archives are available to non-subscribers. If not, one can subscribe by sending the request "subsingle" to: seaways-shipmodeling-list-request@lists.best.com John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: Source for Props. Bruce Ross wrote: >> I'm currently building a 1/144th model of the Coontz class DLG/DDG that I served on, and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a source for ordering a pair of 3 bladed 1 inch diameter screws, right and left handed. The guy who was doing them for Floating Drydock where I had ordered in the past has died so any help will be greatly appreciated. << Try contacting Dave Manley of Small World Models. His email address is: dmanley1@san.rr.com Dave is making propellors in bronze, some nice work. You should see some of his 7 bladed props for submarines. Kurt Greiner SeaPhoto Maritime Photography -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: MDDoremus@aol.com Subject: More Radford Stuff Sorry folks I just don't 'get it'. Yea, I get the part about the $60 Million to repair and the "bow wave" effect on other ships. But, She's not going anywhere, she almost floundered and sank after the crash. If it's going to be repaired, it will be done in Norfolk, most likely by Newport News. So why would Sen. Warner and the rest of the VA. delegation be against repairing her? Seems like that would send a lot of that 'free' federal money to the voters at home. I can see the folks representing other (too few and far between) shipyards being against it but not the Virginians. Mark Doremus Eden Prairie Bob, when you get done with your driveway, can you get mine too? ;-> It's so bad here that the local snow blower for hire is having to snow blow the street to get his truck out. The weather guesser lied, it's more like 2 feet over here. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Yellow ochre for HMS Victory I can't help with the discussion of which what color was meant by bright yellow or whether white turns yellow from tar bleed through, but if you decide to use yellow ochre, just buy a tube of Grumbacher yellow ochre watercolor and mix it with Microscale Micro Flat and you've got something you can brush paint or airbrush. You can adjust the tone by mixing in small amounts of white and/or cadmium yellow light or medium. I make sure the surface is clean and seal the whole thing when I'm done and have never had a problem with paint peeling later. For wood models, it's pretty much the same technique using tubes of oil paint, but the paint is thinned with turpentine and/or spar varnish and a little Japan drier to speed things up -- forget the airbrush this time. Use sable brushes for the best results. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Removing Future floor finish Les Case is right about testing the removal technique on some scraps first, but Future is designed to be removed with amonium hydroxide, that's household amonia to you non-chemists. I admit to not having tried that on a model, but it sure works on my floors. Yes, a modeler who actually uses it for its intended purpose! -- but also on models . I generally try to buy the stuff without detergent already added and add my own to taste (bad choice of word there), but the premixed "amonia" should be fine. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Nuno J. V. Rubim" Subject: Re: Fuso Book I totally agree with A.D.Baker, III. In my entire life,as a modeller (near 40 years), I never read such an outstanding book. Nuno Rubim Portugal -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: Re: Fuso Book I think A D Baker is trying to be controversial here, agreed the Fuso book is a magnificent piece of work but the mistakes are more than just one. Whereas they may well be the author's initially it is the job the publishing house to make sure that the material contained within is accurate (quite apart from quality issues there are legal ones as well in some cases). A publisher will employ someone who knows about the subject and is able to comment on the accuracy or otherwise of the book. Proof reading and editing are also functions of publishers. Considering the quality of the checking of the previous Skulski books (far less mistakes), Conway have made a mess of things. USNI have also blundered but to a lesser extent in that they did not initiate the work. It's all to do with quality control - something which is easily ignored by many nowadays. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Jeff Herne Subject: Removing Future Wax Here are a few tried and true methods, you can choose the one which best suits your mood at the time... 1. A blow torch works really well, but can cause problems with the integrity of the plastic. 2. Emulsification works well too, I recommend a 5 lb. casting hammer. Same problems as above with regards to plastic integrity... 3. Extreme focused radiation, preferably from Uranium 233, will remove wax buildup. Tried it on the kitchen floor once...You'll need Americium 241, put it into a lead container with a pin hole opening. Place a sheet of aluminum foil in front of the opening, this absorbs the alpha rays and releases neutrons. This creates a neutron gun. Then focus the neutron gun at a chunk of Thorium 232. When Thorium is bombarded with neutrons it creates Uranium 233, which is you fissionable material you can use to remove the greasy wax buildup commonly found on kitchen floors...of course, if the wax is really heavy, replace the Americium with Radium and the aluminum with Beryllium. You should be able to knock down a satellite by then...which is far more entertaining than ship modeling... 4. Caustic chemicals...mix 3 parts Draino (extra-strength) with 2 parts super unleaded gasoline, 3 parts pure acetone, and any residual Uranium you have laying around if you've already tried method 3. Shake well... 5. If you've already attached the deck, then force raw hamburger into the openings, and lay it on the floor next to a large dog. This methods proves to be the most time consuming and least entertaining of all the above mentioned modus operandi... Hope this helps. Jeff "Too damn tired to care, so THERE..." -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: AF8H@aol.com Subject: Guam cb-2 Do you offer a model of the Guam cb-2 battlecruiser? if so could it have the info and pricing. thanks, Phil sanford -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: Atlanta Class Cruisers Folks: Just got my copy of Warship Perspectives:Atlanta Class Cruisers in World War II by Glenn Arnold (WR Press) -- lots of great photos, detail drawings, some really nice color artwork including color camouflage plates, and even a set of scale plans (USS San Diego) inside! It has inspired me to finally get my old Skywave 1/700 USS Atlanta kit out of the closet and finish it. So here's a question: am I correct in recalling that Eduard produced a photoetch fret for this class? If so, is there anyone out there who has the fret, and can describe the main components on it? Is it worth getting, or are all the items to be had on a Tom's or GMM set? If so, which one(s). I'd be grateful if anyone could help with advice here. Thanks! Mike Eisenstadt 6" of snow on the ground and its still snowing in Washington DC. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: DKrakow105@aol.com Subject: Re: Polish Books >> better to have told the SMML audience that the book, written and drawn for modellers by one of the world's FINEST ship modellers, provides an unbelievable amount of graphic detail about the incredibly complex shapes >> I second that. Skulski's books are of the highest standard, and is the result of much painstaking research and precise draftsmanship. His Fuso book stupendous and well worth the asking price. As for Skulski's modelbuilding skills, they are beyond belief. I visited him once at his apartment in my "home town" of Krakow, Poland, His 1:1000 scale models are breathtaking with mind-boggling details such as perfect framed, clear canopies and radial engines on all his carrier aircraft. On another note, the AJ press books from Poland got some good press here on SMML. I think they deserve a bit of criticism. Most of their illustrations and plans seem to be lifted from previously published works without crediting them. The photo quality is poor. Worst, the books are full of errors and contradictions that are plain even to one who doesn't speak Polish or even know anything about ships. For example in Monografie 8 on the Graf Spee, details of the overhead views of the ship do not correspond to the side views. A photo of Sheer on page 32 is repeated on page 35. Not only is it a rip-off to repeat photos in the same book, but on page 32 the photo is dated 1936, and on page 35 it is dated 1939. The color perspective views of the bridge structure on the inside back cover are plagarized from the Anthony Preston book on Battleships, even incorporating the same errors, (the halyards do not pass through a metal funnel... etc). Details like signal wings in one view disappear in the other. The color information is unreliable, showing the Spee's camo scheme as green on the cover, then correctly in grey on the plan views on the inside cover... where the brown lino is incorrectly shown as dark grey... etc etc. Let the buyer beware Cheers Dave Krakow Germany -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: DKrakow105@aol.com Subject: HMS Collingwood Address Can anyone give me the address for Royal Naval Base "HMS Collingwood"? They have a collection of photos I would like to see. Thanks! Dave Krakow -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Bob Pearson Subject: RE: INTERNET MODELER Greetings all, While it is true that the Ships Editor has departed Internet Modeler, this does not mean we don't intend to include nautical subjects. In fact we are working on some for future issues and welcome any ideas you may have for other articles. Regards, Bob Pearson Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.internetmodeler.com/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Shane Subject: APMA meeting this Saturday Hi gang, This is an open invitation for all those in Sydney on the weekend to attend this month's APMA meeting. We'll be holding an Airfix display & talk, so it should be very interesting. If you have any queries, please don't hesitate to ask. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume