Subject: SMML21/03/99VOL491 Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 23:58:45 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Fixing holes in resin splinter shields 2: LCI's and the Dragon Wagon 3: Re: LCI's 4: Re: USS CAIRO 5: Re: LCIs 6: Re: Fletchers at the IPMS(USA) Nats 7: Re: Degaussing 8: Re: Victory At Sea 9: Re: LCIs 10: Re: LPH 11: Re: How to reproduce water? 12: Re: De-gaussing 13: Urban Warrior ships 14: Research for S.M.S. Emden 15: Re: DeGaussing cables 16: Electrical Charging 17: one more rigging question 18: Re: Flowers 19: Re: Degaussing 20: Re: de-gaussing 21: Re: Fixing splinter shields 22: Re: WW2 Naval Warfare overview 23: Re: Saratoga 24: Re: LCIs 25: Question on USS Quincy model 26: Injection molded Coast Guard ships 27: Re: Fixing holes in resin splinter shields 28: Re: fixing holes/gaps in resin shields 29: Reference Books -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Wanted!! 2: Civil War Ironclads -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: John Sheridan Subject: Re: Fixing holes in resin splinter shields >> Any suggestions on how to fix the holes, gaps, voids, etc, that sometimes appear in splinter shields and other thin parts on resin kits? << I use body filler mostly. If the hole is large, I will add some scrap styrene to the hole along with the putty. John Sheridan What I do to Spammers: http://microscale.com/images/N2.jpg I am not a Member of the Lumber Cartel (tinlc) and I am not Unit #631 Fight Spam! Join CAUCE! http://www.cauce.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Robert A. Clifton, R.A." Subject: LCI's and the Dragon Wagon Colin Ritchie was looking for a landing craft to put on his Dragon Wagon. A company called Combat Models did an LCM (III I believe) in 1/35 scale. It is vac-u-form, big and sells for $36.95 USD. No phone number available, but they can be reached at 400 3rd Street, West Easton, PA 18042. They also do an LCI, but it is in 1/72 scale. If have built a vac-u-forms before, this should give you little trouble. If you haven't, I think that you might want to wait until somebody brings one out in plastic. I seem to recall that somebody is doing something like that in the future (probably in resin), but can't recall exactly. I also don't place too much credence in company's "future" lists so I wouldn't hold your breath. The kit doesn't have many parts, but many of the details are easy to come by in 1/35 scale. By the way- great idea. Bob Clifton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: EMSR569@aol.com Subject: Re: LCI's Linberg makes an L.C.V.P in 1'32 scale that might look good on the back of your truck. While on the subject, I just purchased the book "SPEARHEADING D-DAY,American Special Units in Normandy" by Jonathan Gawne. The book has many pictures of landing craft, some of them in color, along with color photos of the uniforms worn by the crews. Take care. Sal Ruiz -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Rick Heinbaugh Subject: Re: USS CAIRO Another excellent reference is "Hardluck Ironclad - the sinking and salvage of the Cairo" by Edwin C. Bearss (double s intended), Louisiana State University Press, Baton Rouge, originallly published 1966, 2nd ed 1980. Rick -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: LCIs If any one has a copy of Vol.eleven of the History of U.S.Naval Operations in WWII. by Samuel Morrison is an entire chapter of crossing the Rhine River into Germany in spring, 1945. Basically it went like this. The Army realized in Sept1944 that the Germans would blow up all bridges going into Germany. So after a staff meeting with the navy a group of LCVPs and LCM's were assigned to Operation Delaware-Consisting of 24 LCVP'S with 24 officers and 103 sailors were assembled in Dartmouth and Weymouth to LeHarve France in H.M.S. OCEANWAY and Northway. In France they were transported by Army truck and trailers. Later 45 LCM's were added to this group. According to the book they were loaded on tank retriever trailers by truck. Also in small French villages because these Truck trailers size a portion of houses had to demolished because of sharp turns. They were used in March 1945 and because of these and also using DUKW's (amphibious trucks) to back up in supply the army they enabled the allied armies to cross the Rhine River and establish a front from the North sea to Switzerland. There's a 15 page account on this and probably thru the public library you can get a copy. Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: Fletchers at the IPMS(USA) Nats I have a 1/700 skywave USS PRINGLE DD-477 done in it's aircraft version. I have the 20 mm guns above the bridge and on a platform a she 's in a plastic case painted measure 21. With blue painted on the base with a white wake. Is possible duplication acceptable I used the crane from an accessory set. Well, guys? Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Rick Heinbaugh Subject: Re: Degaussing >> If I remember correctly, the use of degaussing cables was discontinued later in the war as new techniques to degauss the ships hull directly were developed. << Actually, it still is used, but the cables aren't external anymore. As several folks said, the degaussing equipment "minimizes" the ship's magnetic field of influence. If I knew anymore than that it would probably be a secret. Like that captain in the English Channel, we turn it on when we think it is needed. (It sucks up some electric power to run the eqpt.) The Degaussing Range outside the harbor is a range of magnetic sensors to give the ship a "report card". It is checked out every time possible. The Chief Engineer_does not_ want the headache of an unsat report card. On a related note, we all know that minesweepers are made of wood or fiberglass, to strive for _NO_ magnetic field. Until I visited one, I never realized the lengths they go to. Picture a workshop with the hand tools all being made of non-ferrous metal (was that bench vise made of bronze?). Then periodically, annually or so, the ship is checked out at a much higher level than the aforementioned Degaussing Range. Something pierside. The story I heard was that one MSO took a couple of days at this nominally day-long inspection, trying to show the proper neutral magnetic field. There was still some ferrous metal onboard someplace, and they couldn't localize it. It seemed to move around. Turned out that a crewman had a steel plate in his head. Every time he moved around, the sensing eqpt recognized the change in the ship's field. It doesn't break my heart to not have duty on a minesweeper on my resume. Rick Seattle, WA Where Spring was on a Tuesday this year. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "John E. Fail" Subject: Re: Victory At Sea To All; I have tried several sources such as ON QUE, CCMUSIC, AMAZON among others to locate sound tracks from Victory At Sea on CD, all of them tell me that it is discontinued and no longer available. I have the original vinyl records from the sound track and have had them for 40 years but alas no CD-recorder to transfer them to. Has anyone had any luck locating them on CD? John Fail, Bayfield, CO -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: LCIs Colin: Relying on an increasingly overloaded memory, I think those were LCVPs being transported for Rhine River crossings. An LCI would be one VERY big load for road transport. As for a 1/35 LCVP model, I don't know--but perhaps Al Ross might...? John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "mkrumrey" Subject: Re: LPH Fellow SMML'ies: Back in the late '60's Aurora had a 1/600 LPH, the USS Guadalcanal LPH-7. It is typical Aurora crude, but........with some PE and a new set of AC, and a little creative carving on the hull, it could be a fairly decent representative of the class in 1/600 scale. Mark Krumrey -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: How to reproduce water? >> It's the first time I build a 1/700 waterline ship model (Italian W.W.I battleship Dante Alighieri) and I don't know how to reproduce water. Can you help me? << Check out my article on reproducing water in large and small scale on the Internet Modeler site. http://www.internetmodeler.com/ This should get you going. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. Ships and tips http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: De-gaussing Thanks to all who cleared up that big mystery (for me anyway). You learn something new every day here it seems. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. Ships and Tips http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: tom Subject: Urban Warrior ships For those of you in the S.F. Bay area there are a number of tours this weekend on several ships that were involved in the recent Urban Warrior excercizes... Sunday 10 am to 5 pm Alameda Point: Tours of USS Pearl Harbor, and amphibious landing vessel, as well as special exhibits on USS Hornet Jack London Square: Tours of USS Bonhomme Richard. helicopter carrier/assult ship Pier 35 (San Francisco): Tours of USS Coronado, command ship, USS Port Royal, Aegis cruiser and USS John Paul Jones, destroyer. Best regards, Tom Kremer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "michael smith" Subject: Research for S.M.S. Emden Dear SMML: Since this is my first time posting something I'm not sure if this is the place to do it or not - but here it goes.... I am interested in making a scratch built series of WW1 British and German light cruisers and dreadnoughts. I thought I would start with the S.M.S. Emden (inspired by Model Ship Builder #118). Can anyone help me to find information on this vessel? For instance, where could I find an out-of-print copy of Warship Profile #25 (Emden)? If there are any detailed drawings that anyone knows about, that would be great as well. I'm thinking of a scale of 1:100 but may change my mind if I cannot acquire enough information for the necessary detail. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike Smith -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: Re: DeGaussing cables >> I'm still lost. What is Gauss and why would anyone care whether the ship had a positive or negative charge? Keep it simple, I'm 600 miles from the ocean. The closest ships here are in the local hobby shop. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. << >> Degaussing was/is the removal of magnetic fields in a ship, not positive and negative charges. The purpose was to provide better protection against magnetic mines. Gene Larson, Alexandria, Virginia << Gene is essentially correct here, and to amplify this just a bit, a unit of Gauss is a measure of the strength of a magnetic field. Steel hulled ships protected themselves, to a degree, from causing magnetic mines to detonate under the influence of their magnetic fields by running deGaussing cables, either internal or external, around the hull horizontally. The cables carried electricity from the ship's generators which created an electric field to neutralize the ship's magnetic field. This rendered the ship "invisible" to a magnetic mine. Didn't do much for contact mines, or influence mines which sensed the pressure of a passing ship. Flying an EMS hospital helicopter near a Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI) unit which most large hospitals have will cause the gyrocompass on the Horizontal Situation Indicator (HSI) to swing more than 90 degrees due to the strength of the magnetic field from the MRI. It can take the compass over an hour to realign itself if the pilot doesn't manually slave it. Experts in this particular field assured us that with the vast amount of lead shielding around the MRI the amount of Gauss emanating from within was barely measurable. Guess we need to add deGaussing cables around many hospitals. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis (where he often flies off in the wrong direction even without leaking Gauss.....) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Evert-Jan Subject: Electrical Charging For voltaic (or galvanic, as I learned it), sacrificial materials can be used, such as zink anode's. Especially around the propeller, the charge is highest, and the corrosion worst, so there you would find a lot of heavt zink anode's (which are further down the electrical ladder than iron or steel, so corrode first). But, it is possible to have an active anodising system, where you litterally charge the hull. This is very expensive, also in tems of electrical power demand. I don't know if warships use this system, but I have seen it on fast cooled freighters. Normal zink anode's are gone within 2 years, and the ship needs to be docked (Expensive with capital E). Off shore platforms are usually fitted with mammoth zink anode's which can be used for 20 years. Evert-jan Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Ophelia Subject: one more rigging question Hello again everyone; A few days ago I had posted a question in reguards to types of rigging other than sprue, and now I have a whole world of rigging open to me. But this opens a new question. I am somewhat of a stickler for details (actually anal is the word) and with sprue I noticed that I may not be getting accurate rigging sizes. That is now I can get threads or whatever in all kinds of thicknesess so what thickness should I be looking for generally speaking in the various scales. I mostly only work in 1:350 but I ask this because I do not know what real rigging thickness may have been (again just generally since I sure every ship type is probably different). So what are safe thickness to work in for various scales? Thank you again, Mark A. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: CHRIS DRAGE Subject: Re: Flowers Hi Chris, >> Every other original Flower would have been very similar except for individual yard variations and of those you list all except Alisma (another Harland +ACY- Wolf ship) were Canadian Flowers. << Yes indeed. That is quite correct but they were built for the RN (1939-40 building programme) and had the pompom sited just abaft the funnel like Buttercup. The Canadian practise was to site the pompom abaft the engine room skylight. Virtually all the corvettes in this programme were eventually transferred on loan to the RCN....! I will check out the other members of the H & W Flowers. Thanks!! :-> Regards, Chris He tao rakau e taea te karo, tena he tao kupa kaore e taea te karo.... (Te reo Maori) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: John Burch Subject: Re: Degaussing I have noticed in the thread on Degaussing that a lot of the discussions are phrased in the past tense, as if only applicable to early WW II. Actually, I contend that such cables were installed internally (where they are much better protected from damage), as soon as practicable. Thus the external cables disappeared from ship photos later in WW II, not because they were not provided, but because the ships with external cables were retrofitted with internal cables, and new construction ships were built with internal cables. I have also noticed that the assumption was made that Degaussing Cables were only provided on capital ships. I expect that that was not the case during WW II, and I know that it is not true for the USN, today. While not claiming any great degree of expertise on this subject, I did contribute to the Post Delivery Test and Trials (PDT&T) Plan for the FFG Project, in which, during PDT&T all new construction FFGs were scheduled through East or West Coast De-Perming facilities (as Shane described for Garden Island Dockyard [Is it still H.M.Garden Island Dockyard or has it been privatized like WILLDOCK?]). I don't have GEN SPECS (USN General Specification for Shipbuilding) available to provide the pertinent reference requirement, but, ships down to Frigates are required to have Degaussing Cables in the USN. I located the Degaussing Cables in a number of FFGs, when I was tracing cables in the TACTAS Handling Room (compartment 2-388-2-Q). There were, I believe, three cables about an inch in diameter, which were right up against the shell plating and ran around the compartment, which is the aftmost compartment on the port side, second deck. As I understand it, De-Perming, where the ship is wrapped in cables and subjected to a powerful electromagnetic field, is for the purpose of defeating the permanent magnetic moment a ship acquires during the building process. As a ship sits on the slipway for two, three, four or more years, the bits and pieces of steel, of which it is built, all tend to align with the Earth's magnetic field. After De-Perming (which is done in what is commonly referred to in the USN as a De-Perming Crib), the less powerful Degaussing Cables are then sufficient to defeat Magnetic Influence Devices. Incidentally, during De-Perming care must be taken by ship's company to remove or protect susceptible items, such as magnetic tapes and disk drives. In regard to the somewhat related subject of sacrificial anodes, raised by Steve Jantscher; sacrificial anodes (zincs) are usually provided in all free-flooding areas, as well as the ones fixed to the skin of the ship. During OH PERRY's first drydocking I received one of those Good News/Bad news phone calls from SupShips Jacksonville. The Good News was that the zincs in the SQS-56 Sonar Dome were OK; the Bad News was that the steel in the Sonar Array had sacrificed itself to protect the zincs! I might also note that some ships use an Imposed Cathodic Protection System instead of sacrificial anodes. In such a system a current is imposed on the hull, negative to that caused by steel in sea water (which is a weak battery); breakdown of the paint system (protecting the steel from corrosion) will result in an increase in the voltage of the Imposed Cathodic Protection System, which provides an opportunity to locate and correct the problem. John Burch Gaithersburg, MD, USA Hi John, Garden Is Dockyard now falls under Australian defence Industies (ADI) & as such I "think" it's lost the title of HMA Dockyard, Garden Is. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Darrell Cook Subject: Re: de-gaussing There are mines which are detonated by close proximity to the metal hull of a ship. They are detonated by the magnetic field that the hull gives off. While a ship passes through the magnetic field if the earth, it gets slightly magnatized, just like rubbing a piece of metal on a magnet. Also sub hunting aircraft, like the p-3 Orion have devices that pick up magnetic disturbances caused by a submarine. Degausing "helps" cut down on the signature given off by the sub. Basicly, degaussing de-magnatizes a ship. Darrell Cook ex-ST1(SS) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "Frank and Carol Berger" Subject: Re: Fixing splinter shields This idea comes from Mike Czibovic of Corsair Armada Models. Enlarge the hole and square up the corners. Then cut a piece of plastic card of the appropriate size and thickness and superglue it into the opening. The repair piece can then be sanded and feathered into place with a little putty. I just fixed the bilge keels on my 1/350 AIM San Francisco using this method. Along the lines of repairing resin, I tried a new technique to fill all those air bubbles. A freind reccommended using a product from Gunze Sangyo called Mr. Resin Surfacer. He described it as a thick lacquer primer. I couldn't find any at any of the local hobby shops, but thought I could make my own. I purchased a bottle of Floquil Railroad Colors Red Zinc Chromate Primer (F110601). Don't stir the bottle up, keep the carrier separated from the pigment. using a pipette, I drew the carrier off the top. Reserve this liquid so it can be poured back onto the pigment to preserve it. I then used a poured a small quantity of the remaining thick, pigment onto the hull bottom. This was allowed to dry, and then wet sanded. Two applications later, the air bubbles were gone and the hull bottom was ready for painting. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Norman Samish Subject: Re: WW2 Naval Warfare overview >> In the March 1999 issue of Atlantic Monthly magazine can be found an article entitled "Victory At Sea" (no points for originality) by David M. Kennedy. Its a 19 page overview of the Atlantic and Pacific theatres of war, written in an in-depth but very readable style with maps and photos of the main personalities. I thought it was an excellent read, presenting the US, Japanese, and German agendas, in that order of importance. Very much worth seeking out. << I couldn't find this article in Atlantic Monthly. Is it someplace else? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "arthur" Subject: Re: Saratoga For the person who asked "what happened to the Saratoga", she was 1 of the 93 ships sent to Bikini Atoll for the A Bomb tests, along with other 'biggies' like Arkansa BB 33, New York BB 34, Nevada BB 36 and Pennsylvania BB 38. Talking of bombs, one has hit my model room in the shape of my other half, on her annual spring clean. Actually we are going in to winter and finding space to store our nuts. Out, amongst other prize possessions, are a heap of books some of which may be of use to list readers. These are ;- Janes - Fighting Ships of WW2 Janes - Battleships of the 20th Century Janes - War At Sea 1897 - 1997 Conway - The Design and Construction of British Warships 1939 - 1945 Major Surface Warships Amphibious Warfare Vessels & Auxiliaries Submarines, Escorts & Coastal Forces John Roberts - Battlecruisers RN Official - German Warships of WW1 Shizuo Fukui - Japanese Naval vessels at the end of WW2 Warship Magazine - Issues 41, 42, 43, 44, 49. All are in pristine condition and looking for a good home. R.I.P. For anyone wanting more on magnetic fields and degaussing, may I suggest ;- http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/seg/polfld/faggcom.shtml Arthur Where it is down to 23 C with occasional sun, and a damn site more frigid around the vicinity of the cook at the moment. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: CaptainOD@aol.com Subject: Re: LCIs Re Collin Ritchie and landing craft. The quickest fix is the old Lindberg LCVP in 1/32 scale (close enough) which were used in the Rhine Crossings, 2nd choice is the old Monogram/Revell reissue of the "UDT" boat 1/32 which was a "R" version of I believe the Higgins boat, or a 1/35 Nitto LVT amphibious tractor, and finally if you want to scratch build, make a special transport/Utility trailer, 24 wheel M9 to haul your 1/32 scale Elco PT boat as seen in "They were Expendable." Bob O'Donovan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Bonnie Harrison Subject: Question on USS Quincy model You have a 1/700 scale model of the USS Quincy (1942) listed. Is this the Baltimore class USS Quincy CA 71? If so, I intend to order it. Thank you! Bonnie Harrison -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Growlrr@aol.com Subject: Injection molded Coast Guard ships Hi gang, A friend of mine is looking for any injection molded Coast Guard ships for his dad (who is in his 70's) to build...He too old, ornary and generally cranky for resin (so HE says), but wants to continue to build...Can anybody tell me what they know of? The larger the scale, the better....Thanks Glenn "Remember, it takes 47 muscles to frown, but only 4 to pull the trigger of any decent sniper rifle" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Robert Vancel Subject: Re: Fixing holes in resin splinter shields >> Any suggestions on how to fix the holes, gaps, voids, etc, that sometimes appear in splinter shields and other thin parts on resin kits? << There are two ways I generally do this. A) Cut off the shield and find the matching size Evergreen Styrene strip and glue it back on or: B) Apply a tiny bit of cyanao... cyraeni...cyanor....superglue to the hole and sand while the glue is still 'tacky'. The resin dust mixes with the glue and makes a nice fill. Hollywood/nWMo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: "russell/joyce powell" Subject: Re: fixing holes/gaps in resin shields Alan Lindstrom asks about fixing pin holes, and gaps in resin splinter shields. I'm sure there are many "preferred" methods. I have found the following techniques fairly quick and easy. 1) for shields where an end is incompletely formed (usually a half-moon shape) it is best to file down the end to a vertical edge. Replace the missing section with sheet plastic, super glued into place. I usually use a piece of plastic that is thicker than the molded shield, then file and sand down to the thickness of the shield. I generally add baking soda to the glue weld and with a fine file begin shaping and thinning right away, before the glue gets too hard. The baking soda fills any small voids, and sets the glue instantly. Remember, some resins are quite soft. Use a soft touch when getting down to the final mating at the weld. Finish with fine sandpaper. I usually roll a scrap of sandpaper into a miniature cone and sand that way. I don't have a lot of fancy sanders. 2) Pin holes are easier. I simply apply a tiny bit of super glue into, and on the edge of the hole. Drop a pinch of baking soda onto the spot. Blow off the excess. Add a touch more glue if necessary. Repeat the process untill the whole is covered. File, and sand smooth. 3) Big holes in resin: the same principle is involved, but you don't want to fill a watertight compartment with glue and baking soda. Plug the hole with a piece of scrap plastic, then fill and finish as above. 4) Sometimes on small holes, and areas where thin (runny glue) is best avoided I have used slow curing super glue, such as Duro's "no run". It is often dense enough to plug a hole of itself. It can also be spread with a toothpick, as across a seam, or low spot. Hit it with accelerator, file and sand to finish. I hope this helps a bit. I use many variations on these methods. Sometimes accelerator might be the choice over baking soda. And Evergreen makes sheet styrene down to .005", thinner than any 1/700 splinter shield. Again though, I usually start with thicker sheet and work down to the slimness of the shield. A soft finishing touch leads to an undetectable patch. Best Regards from a cool and cloudy Okinawa, Russell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: tomjean Subject: Reference Books Does anyone know of any good reference books for modelling British and/or American warships of the period 1890 through WW1? Thanks, Tom Zaccone -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: FOP5@aol.com Subject: Wanted!! Looking for models to purchase that are for sale: Oceanliners Past & present,Cruise ships, Carferries, Tugs Like QE-1,Andrea Doria,Normendia,Paquebot Avenir carferry,Herald Free Enterprise,MV Estonia,All types of Tugs & LIghtships.Last EDMOND FITZGERALD Ore carrier,Ocean going cargo liners If you have any you can contact me at FOP5@aol.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Shaya Novak" (by way of Greg Lee) Subject: Civil War Ironclads Naval Base Hobbies carries a full navy of both Conf. & Union warships. Visit the War Room at www.modelshipbuilding.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume