Subject: SMML30/03/99VOL500 Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 23:32:17 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Floquil Marine colours 2: Re: Gray/grey/whatever 3: Re: Airbrushing ship models 4: Re: Inclining experiment 5: Re: iPms 6: Re: My modeling table 7: That virus 8: Re: Anti Skid pads 9: Re: Fletcher Sponsor 10: Re: US 1/600 Battleships 11: Re: Air Brushes 12: Canadian Maple Leaf 13: Re: Haze Gray Paint 14: Re: The Contest 15: Re: Airbrushes 16: Warship Perspectives: ATLANTA Class Cruisers 17: Re: Haze Gray 18: Re: Those FLETCHERs and Steve's offer 19: Re: Fletchers at US Nats 20: After the battle on the web 21: Strombecker Ship Model Kits 22: Re: MO to Iowa corrections 23: Re: inclining 24: USS Oklahoma City 25: Malt Whisky & Inclining 26: Re: Tamiya POW 27: Re: Incline experiment. 28: Question 29: Re: Sumner/Gearing hull problems 30: Re: Lighthouse story 31: Re: Gearing/Sumners again 32: Supertanker kits 33: Re: Air brush 34: Dutch book info wanted 35: RN DD ID 36: 1/72 Flower Class Bits -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Contest in New England, USA, May 16th 2: Happy99.exe distrubutor warning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS Welcome to the 500th issue of SMML I would like to take to this opportunity to thank Greg Lee for starting this forum & to thank ALL of SMML's subscribers. Because without your input, SMML wouldn't be where it is today. We are currently hovering around the 750 mark for total subscribers, that's not taking into account those of you who have more than one address. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Re: Floquil Marine colours Model Expo sell these paints - the URL (a bit complicated I'm afraid) is: http://www.dxshop.com/_shop/home.mhtml?shop=ModelExpoInc I have bought various things from them in the past, and can recommend them. James Morley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Mike.Dunn@dresdner-bank.com Subject: Re: Gray/grey/whatever Rusty wrote :- >> It's Gray (or Grey) here in Oklahoma with rain and the smell of plastic in the air. Never mind, that's dinner. I have the only wife who uses a smoke detector instead of a timer. << Don't bet on that! Mine does it all the time, especially on a Sunday! . And an ex-neighbour of mine - well, we always knew when she was in the kitchen! Lovely lady, just hadn't a clue about cooking Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Mike.Dunn@dresdner-bank.com Subject: Re: Airbrushing ship models Fritz wrote :- >> I decided to take the plunge and try some painting of 1:1250 ships. Can any of you recommend an air brush suitable for painting these ships? I went to the local Hobbyland and the staff and customers all joined in and gave me lots of advice: << Hiya, Boy, this seems to be getting a popular subject! yet another SMMLie asking about airbrushes! Well, same as last time; I'm emailing Fritz direct; others interested, please see issue SMML 25/2/99 Vol 467, for a few mails on the subject. Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "efoeth" Subject: Re: Inclining experiment An inclining experiment is an experiment to find the centre of gravity of a ship. The centre of gravity of a ship cannot be calculated within a certain accuracy, so by shifting some weights around and measuring the change in pitch and trim, it can be deduced. The hull shape is precisely known, and if you measure the draft and trim, you can calculate the centre of buoyancy. These two centres are always above each other (Else the ship trims and pitches to a new position or turns turtle). Also, if you know the moment you apply to your ship (By shifting weights) and the angles the ship makes in its new position, you can calculate the righting arm (For stability) Each time a ship has been modified, a new experiment will be held, as the centre of gravity has changed. The tests are done with extreme care, and weights aboard the ship are carefully monitored. The length of the ship is measured first Then the fllowing conditions MUST apply -ship floats freely -all docklines slacked -tankage and boilers completely full or empty (Due to free surfaces of liquids, explained in article, wait for 1 year) -bilges empty or full -all weights secured (lockerrooms checked), no shifting or slinging allowed -crew overboard Then draft, water temperature and water density are measured. The linesdrawing is a known ship characteristic. Thus, ship centre of buoyancy and weight are know, and the centre of gravity is then also known. All coming up in my hardly progressing article. Evert-Jan Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: iPms Read the IPMS definition of plastic. Resin is considered a plastic under their definition. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://warship.simplenet.com/Flagship.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: My modeling table I was hoping most folks had forgot about that. My wife brings it up every time I pick up a hammer. She gave me a cup that said "Advice for the do-it-yourselfer, DON'T". Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: That virus Hi guys.... I'm usually very sceptical about virus warnings, but in this case Mike Dunn is correct. The email virus "important message from xxxxxxx" wrecked havoc with my firm (and some others here in London) over the weekend - we had IT people called in to try to search 4000 pc's and clean it off!!! Forewarned is forearmed - don't open it ! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Anti Skid pads Duane, Put me down for 1/350 and 1/700 sets. A question though. I am currently working on a 1/350 Fletcher. The deck on my ship is camouflaged with different colors of paint. Did the Navy just paint over the skid pads? If they did, wouldn't this reduce their effectiveness? Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Fletcher Sponsor Steve, Aris Papas contacted me the day after we spoke about this. He said Dennis Moore (who I suggested you contact) has resigned his position as Head Ships judge for the US nationals. I was real sorry to hear that. Aris said Dennis suggested I succeed him in that position. I have formally accepted the head ships judge position so I passed your recommendation on to Aris. He will let me know if there is any set procedure for this but suspect there isn't. Since you're sponsoring the awards it will cost the host club nothing. However, someone will notify the host chapter, but lets wait and hear back from Aris. Incidentally, Aris Pappas was appointed by Walt Fink Chairman of the Contest Committee. BTW, is your new web site up and running yet? PS: This may sound patronizing, but what about the "Classic Warship award"? The definition says it all. Who sponsors it and the subject matter. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "joseph w. reyna" Subject: Re: US 1/600 Battleships Mr. Taylor, When these new Battleship kits first appeared, I made several inquiries to the various kit distributors to find out a little more about these kits. From what I've learned so far, these kits are reissues of the ARII/OTAKI Battleship kits. Just as you described these kits are decent renditions, although quite sparse in detail. The main weaknesses, as I recall, are the complete lack of HARPOON missile cannister/launchers, and the odd-looking ship's helicopters (looks like a cross between a Kaman Seasprite and a Sikorsky Sea King helicopter). The Seasprites from the old MONOGRAM FORRESTAL-class carriers would be a fine substitute for this kit's helo's, and the SKYWAVE 1/700 harpoon cannisters actually could work on this 1/600 kit (I'm not certain that SKYWAVE's harpoons are overscale, but they do appear they would look correct sitting amidships on this battleship kit). Add some photo-etched brass, and it's a fairly decent kit. The dearth of 1/600 scale models makes anything new a source of excitement, but I'm afraid these kits aren't really new. (Felix, if you're reading this, do you have any further information about these kits? I'd love to be wrong about these being reissues of the ARII/OTAKI) Now, about those 1/1200 carriers - despite my current financial constraint, I'd like to find out HOW does one purchase EACH of these carriers?!?! Cheers. Joe Reyna -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Re: Air Brushes Fritz: I recommend you look into the Badger 360 "The Universal Air Brush". This airbrush is both a gravity feed (top) and a siphon feed (bottom) brush and is essentially a two in one brush. The gravity feed cup allows you to use a small amount of paint at lower spraying pressure for small details or a small amount of parts. The siphon feed allows you to use a full jar of paint for doing larger areas or numerous parts. Very practical. It is a dual action brush that will allow you to spray a very thin (down to 1/32" wide) line of paint onto the small models you build as well as a wide 2" pattern, with the same brush. Does it take practice to be able to do this? Sure does. But like every aspect of our hobby, you only get good with experience. I used a single action Binks Wren brush for years and finally took the plunge and tried the Badger 360. I sprayed about three full jars of Badger Modelflex Marine Colors acrylic paints through the brush before I felt I had mastered it. In the meantime I produced some wild looking cardboard sheets! I now consider myself proficient with the dual action brush and find it so much more versatile than the single action brush that I packed the old Binks brush away after 35 years of use! Practice is essential before you will feel comfortable using a dual action brush, but the same goes for a single action brush too. A dual action brush is much more versatile than a single action brush and gives you much better control over the paint application. The extra learning effort is well woth it. Spray some paint through the dual action brush onto scrap plastic, cardboard, etc. until you feel comfortable and then paint your model. The model is not a practice piece! Kurt Van DAhm Westmont, IL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Tom Dean Subject: Canadian Maple Leaf Hi Gang: Like most things when it comes to ship models, the wearing of the maple leaf on a ships funnel, is confusing at best. During the Second World War, ships of the RCN were of the same classes as the RN and more often than not they operated with them. With ships that looked alike, uniforms almost identical even to the trade badges, and the fact that the ships wore the White Ensign, some crews started to look for something that identified them as Canadians. One of the ways was to mount art work on the funnel. This seemed to have usually taken the form of a "Maple Leaf" long a symbol of Canada. This is where the fun starts. Most ships during the war did not sport the leaf. In groups that did, the size, colour and composition varied. For the most part the maple leaf seemed to have been in singular form and painted green. Now for the variations. Ships in EG C-3 (Escort Group-Canadian 3) had a sprig of 3 maples leafs, apparently red in colour. EG C5 wore an alternating red and white stripe around a funnel and was known as the "Barber Pole Squadron". At various times it was superimposed with a red leaf, a leaf below the stripe, or no leaf at all but a stylized Griffith. EG C8 had a checkerboard stripe, with a maple leaf with and 8 in it. So as you can see it was a matter of individual taste and the squadron commanders wishes I guess. So as always you will have to research the particular ship you wish to portray. Now for post war. Unfortunately I could not find the reference to when the wearing of the maple leaf became official, but appears to have been in the immediate post war years as all pics of ships show a leaf on the funnel. So since that time Canadian Navy vessels have worn a single red maple leaf on a funnel. The exception being the 280 class destroyers which mount it on the hangar side as their funnels until recently were sloped outward and it would not have been seen. The leaf until recently would have had the veins painted on in white. It now is just solid red although some have the squadron number painted on them as well.. Again check the ship you are making. The funnels again would have squadron numbers, commander stripes, barber pole stripes etc on them as well. One more thing, for the most part the leaf was/is not painted directly on the funnel, but is an individual metal plate mounted on the funnel and does stick out a bit! For a good idea of the wearing of the maple leaf on war time ships you might want to check out the following site: http://www.naval-museum.mb.ca They have some 400 pics of record of wartime ships and it is a good source for anyone making an RCN/RN type ship from the war era. Hope this helps a bit. Tom Dean Hamilton, Ontario Canada -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Leonard, Michael W" Subject: Re: Haze Gray Paint John asked - >> One more question about paint. Is today's USN haze gray different from 1984's haze gray? And is 1984's haze gray different from the 50's or 60's haze gray? << I would say NO to both parts, but I'm sure John Synder (The Paint Guy) can reply in more detail. The ships I see in Norfolk today differ little from the ones I knew on active duty (81-85) with a few exceptions I can point out: (1) Color contrast is less prominent. For example, ships used to have a lot of UNREP fittings painted white to improve visibility at night -- i.e., bulkhead attachments for fuel probes, chocks, bitts, and other things easy to bump into or trip over in the dark. To a large extent these are now Haze Gray. (2) Upper masts, radars, etc. are no longer painted black to hide discoloration from stack gases/soot. Maybe now that gas turbines have largely replaced oil-fired boilers on combatants, this is less of a problem. (3) So-called 'lo viz' hull numbers and ship names are used. The colors tend to vary widely, and appear in both shaded/unshaded versions. Traditional black and white hull numbers are still common, too. I believe deploying ships are more concerned about the hull number business. These changes began around 1991-92 but I can't cite the technical guidance. The intent was to reduce visibility both from the air and from the surface, especially so far as detection by missiles was concerned (those that seek a strong color contrast as an indication that a ship is sitting in the water). Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: The Contest I know that Steve asked for suggestions to be sent directly to his e-mail address, but I wanted to throw this one out here for all of SMML. A few years ago, Larry Gertner started a ship SIG (Special Interest Group) in IPMS/USA, with its own newsletter. When Larry had to back away for personal reasons, a friend and I here in the Sacramento IPMS chapter took over the newsletter for a year or so. When Dan Jones began publication of Plastic Ship Modeler, things kind of gradually devolved in his direction, and the SIG died out. So--perhaps it's time for an IPMS ship SIG to reappear, but this time in the form of SMML. No dues, and a daily newsletter! That way, the annual award sponsored by Steve at the IPMS/USA nationals could be the Ship SIG special award (and for that matter, someone could sponsor a similar award at other national contests such as IPMS/UK (Caroline, are you listening?), IPMS/Canada, etc., since the SIG would be very international. How does that strike all you folks? And for future reference, Randy and I are thinking of sponsoring an award for most accurately painted/best painted ship model at the IPMS/USA nationals. I don't want to do it this year since Randy won't be able to make it and he knows RN camo much better than I--and I don't want to make some complete gaffe and put my foot where I put it too often anyway! John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Airbrushes Fritz: You'll probably get as many (or more) answers here as at the hobby shop. I've been using a Paasche Model H for model railroad, model aircraft (both now pretty much in the past) and model ships. I love it, and wouldn't easily change; I prefer single-action, and I prefer solvent-based paints. I don't use a compressor (too noisy for my liking); instead I use a "Q"-size bottle of compressed, super-dry nitrogen (absolutely no chance of moisture) from a welding shop, with an old welding regulator. I personally think that the bottom line is that you aren't likely to go badly wrong with any of the well-made airbrushes. Make your selection, and then learn to use it. An airbrush is just another tool, and just like any other tool, one must learn to use it well and properly. Make your choice, and don't look back and second-guess yourself. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: John Snyder Subject: Warship Perspectives: ATLANTA Class Cruisers I've received my copy of this new book by Glenn Arnold from WR Press. In format, it matches last year's WR release by Jeff Herne on FLETCHER/GEARING/SUMNER class DDs: softcover, landscape format, printed on coated paper. Like the earlier book, this one has minimal text, relying mostly on photos, line drawings, and color elevations of camouflage schemes worn by the ATLANTAs. However, since this was a comparitively small class of ships, the reader does get a short operational history of each one. The real value of the book for the modeler lies in the photos, most of which have never before been published. And while there are some problems with graphics reproduction in this volume, there is still much here--from armament and other details to camouflage--that will be most useful in producing an accurate model of any ship of the class. Finally, there is a large-scale (reproduced here at about 1" = 13.33') fold-out set of plans, drawn by Alan Raven, of USS SAN DIEGO as she appeared after her 1944 refit, tipped into the back cover of of the book. Beautifully-drawn, as is typical of Alan Ravan's work, these show a starboard side elevation, main deck and all upper deck level plans, hull section lines, and details of masts and radar antennae/electronics aerials. Anyone even vaguely interested in this class of lovely cruisers (OK, I admit it, they've long been a favorite of mine), and certainly anyone planning to model them needs to add this book to their library. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Haze Gray Rusty's formula sounds correct for matching the Floating Drydock chip. However, I seem to recall that chip matched their Haze Gray paint, which was the purple-blue Haze Gray, not today's neutral Haze Gray (it would be like matching to the Haze Gray in our USN Set 1 instead of the Haze Gray in our USN Set 2--which is the current Haze Gray). John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Those FLETCHERs and Steve's offer I, too, applaud Steve for his generosity, and am pleased he asked me to help judge (it's for sure I won't have time to get one built by then, so I won't have a vested interest--at least not this year). However, someone should check the SMML archives. I seem to recall that the initial parameters for this exercise was "any FLETCHER kit, any scale", and not just 1/700. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys John, Check SMML around the start of December, about the time I started editing SMML. Issues 386 & up. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Doremus, Mark" Subject: Re: Fletchers at US Nats Ed, Thanks for the answers before I asked the questions. Sounds like fun. I'd like to help. Only have a couple more questions. 1) Where can I find minimum IPMS/USA requirements? Is it on their website? 2) Anyone from Minneapolis - St Paul area planing on going? On rules for knife fights: I thought it was Paul Newman in "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid", moments after he placed a well aimed boot into his opponent's tender spot, noted that there were no rules in a knife fight. Mark Doremus Eden Prairie, MN Bob -- No robins, yet but plenty of geese and the bulldozers woke up this morning. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "Peter Sketchley" Subject: After the battle on the web Shane and all, After the Battle is available on the web at: http://www.afterthebattle.mcmail.com The site includes catalogues for ATB back issues and all ATB publications. Some photo`s are included, but generally a text site. Congratulations on the 500 th SMML, with best wishes for many more. Keep up the good work! Peter Sketchley Duxford Cambridge UK Hi Peter, Thanks for the site, much appreciated. Only 3 issues behind at the moment, not too bad, since they're shipped surface from the UK. Looking forward to reading the Blucher article in 101, as well as dare I say it "SPR" the making off in 103. Thanks for the congrats as well. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: John Burch Subject: Strombecker Ship Model Kits The start of my model making hobby almost perfectly coincided with the introduction of styrene plastic model kits in the early fifties, although I do remember building three wood/plastic display airplane models in the early fifties. Last evening I remembered having seen a Strombecker advertisement for three or four wood/plastic ship models (the ad was part of the instruction pages for another kit) in those days. I distinctly remember that one of the kits was for a COMMENCEMENT BAY Class CVE, which I don't believe has ever been the subject of any other kit, in any media. I was never able to locate that, or any of the other Strombecker ship kits. I was wondering if anyone else on the List remembers these kits, and/or if anyone had actually built them. I am interested in the scale of the kits (box scale?) and the their design; were they balsa and plastic, or were the hulls carved hardwood? How much plastic was included (e.g., aircraft and guns)? Besides COMMENCEMENT BAY, what other ship models (all USN types) were in the collection? Thanks in advance for any information in response to this query. John Burch Gaithersburg, MD USA Where it is a balmy 70 F (21 C), and my Forsythia are just starting to bloom. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Louis Costanzo Subject: Re: MO to Iowa corrections In response to Jame's Moreley's post, the Iowa conversion kit does include the 20mm gun tub for #2 turret, and some extra 20mm guns. As to your comment on the superstructure, it will be tough to remove but the impact of the ship on the floor has loosened it a little :) Thanks for your comments. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "PDSI" Subject: Re: inclining Steve: To parafrase what happens durring a inclining experiment: A ship is taken into a basin (so that there are minimal water surface disturbances) and is physically inclined by means of water barrels or concrete blocks. As the blocks/ barrels are moved outboard, first on one side and then the other, the freeboard is measured from the sheer at several points along the waterline on both sides. There are also a set of pendulums (inclinometers) theat are read as well to offer a second set of data. Form this the metacentric height (the distance from the center of gravity to where the vertical line of boyancy meets the vertical centerline) can be measured for small angles of heel. From this number several qualities of seaworthiness can than be calculated and, as importantly, the center of gravity. This proceedure is done everytime a ship is built or refit since the CG is almost never where the architect calculates it to be at. In several photos that Ive seen taken during inclining experiments, one can most definately see some of the concrete blocks on wood rails positioned around the decks. For more detail on this, see if someone can send you some of the SMML issues from about 4-7 months ago, where there was an extremely detailed discussion about inclining. Regards Fritz Koopman fsk-pdsi@nii.net (who can no longer sign his postings simply as Fritz as there actually apears to be another one out there) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "mkrumrey" Subject: USS Oklahoma City Hi gang: For your information, the USS Oklahoma City has been towed to 75 miles off Guam as the target ship for a Naval Gunfire exercise by ships from at least 5 nations. It is a former flagship, was in Tokyo bay during surrender ceremonies, and saw action during Viet Nam firnig missles at enemy radar sites earning a Navy Unit Citation. She served as the Flagship out of Yokosuka Japan. She was decommissioned in 1979. Her namesake state declared March 24-25 as USS Oklahoma City Days. This is out of the latest Navy Times. Thought you'd like to know. Mark Krumrey New Richmond WI. Where spring is here again. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: Malt Whisky & Inclining I would suggest trying Highland Park or a 17 year old Bowmore. Both are pretty spectacular and pretty smooth (though peaty as well). As a conissuer of single malts I could go on and on. With regards to inclining tests, these were carried out to find out how far the ship would list before it got dangerous. Parts of the ships were flooded in controlled conditions BEFORE the ship was commissioned or started its trials. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Frank and Carol Berger" Subject: Re: Tamiya POW Definitely, definitely get the Gold Medal Model set. The set has been re-tooled by Loren Perry and is gorgeous. Included are cranes, radar, rails and sights for the 2-pdr. AA gun, sights and shields for the 20MM guns, watertight doors, railings, ladders and more. This set is also for the Tamiya KGV, which I believe the holes marked K in the deck are intended for. Your idea for the deck sounds intriguing, maybe I'll try it on mine. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: Incline experiment. We did that aboard the USS KITTY HAWK at the end of her overhaul in 1971 I think it was. As I understand it they knew the weight of every single piece of equipment aboard the ship. We even had to let them (someone) know if we had anything new on board. Then they would bring aboard these heave weights on the flightdeck. First on the Starboard side and then they would move them to the Port side. Seems to me we hardly moved maybe only about a 6 or 7 degree list. But as I understand it they could calculate how much the ship could take in heavy sea and so on. Michael Donegan NAVYDAZE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Jeffrey Arban Subject: Question Hello, I was told to get in touch here. I was wondering what the proper paint scheme was for a WWII Pacific Attack Cargo ship was for the US navy. I need deck and structure colors. Thanks. I also would like to be put on the list. Thanks, Jeff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: dhjonespsm@juno.com Subject: Re: Sumner/Gearing hull problems >> Are the Skywave Sumner and Gearing class off of the same molds as the Albatross Sumner and Gearing? << No, the Albatross pair have much better hull shapes but the upperworks details are simple, none of the fine detail of the Skywave kits which are excellent except for the hulls. The thought has occurred that combining the two kits might be the answer in this scale. Has anyone out there done this? Dan Jones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: dhjonespsm@juno.com Subject: Re: Lighthouse story >> I heard this story several years ago, but in that version, it was the U.S.S. ENTERPRISE, and a U.S. east coast lighthouse. I believe that it was quoted by Dan Jones in PLASTIC SHIP MODELER, where there is a more complete version. Don't remember which issue that was, but I'm sure that Dan knows. << Yes, it was in 1997/2 in Ray Bean's "Navifotel" colume - page 32. Dan Jones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: dhjonespsm@juno.com Subject: Re: Gearing/Sumners again >> Another problem I noticed with the Skywave Gearing kit was the freeboard (I hope that's the right term) on the bow. The bow freeboard was way too extreme. Gearings and Sumners had very little curve from the deck to the keel while the Skywave kit had a very extreme curve. << Actually, I think the term you are searching for is "flare" and the Skywave Gearing and Sumner hulls do indeed have way to much of it. The hull form is quite unlike any USN destroyer of this time period. For those who would like to try to build the Skywave kit without sacrificing an Albatross kit hull, or scratch building a replacement, Larry Gertner has devised a method of using the Skywave components to arrive at a reasonable facimile of the correct shape. His article (with drawings) appeared in Plastic Ship Modeler 1997/3 on pages 32-33. Dan Jones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: LRobin9900@aol.com Subject: Supertanker kits Howdy Ever since i was a kid ive been waiting for a Supertanker Plastic kit. The larger the ship the better ( over 300,000 tons.) Is there one i can buy? Any scale under 3 feet over all length. Thanks Skip R. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33) From: "Your Name" Subject: Re: Air brush 1. Get the new testors-double action and easy to clean. Binks stinks. Badger not so hot. The Aztec is a very nice product. Cleaning is easy. The nozzles are listed as consumables, i.e., you will be replacing them. I haven't yet, but I've only had it about a year now. 2. Don't get the new testors-can't soak plastic body in cleaning solvent. I've cleaned it with acetone and other nasties. Holding up very well. 3. Don't get a double action brush- unless you are perfect, you get variable flow. From my understanding, most double-actions can be adjusted into single action. Certainly true of the Aztec. I don't find the double action that hard to deal with. Spent a while just playing around painting every piece of cardboard and scrap wood I could find. I generally don't find myself trying to hold the trigger in one position very long anyway. I'm usually constantly starting and stopping the brush as I move on and off the part. 4. Get a tried and true Paasche- The H is what you want. 5. For that scale get a Paasche F-it will do 1/128th inch lines No info. 6. You really need four brushes so you can switch around depending on the job. The multiple nozzles of the Aztec may satisfy this requirement. 7. In any event, stick with the tried and true solvent thinned paints-easy to control and you can take your time and get it right. I prefer solvent paints for the finish -- I feel you get more time to do the job. I prefer acrylics for my health, as I've probably inhaled too much solvent and sawdust in my life. 8. Forget solvent based paints unless you have good ventilation. Acrylics are harder to get used to but once you do, you will find they give better results with less trouble. Acrylics have a rep as being hard to apply. I've not had any problems at all with the Aztec's special purpose acrylic nozzles. I use denatured alcohol as a thinner. 9. Cleanup is easier with solvent based/acrylic based paints(pick one). I could actually argue both. I find I have more time to clean up with solvent paint, but, clearly, I have to use solvent. If done quickly enough, i.e., right after I'm done with the color, acrylic cleanup with water is much easier than using solvents. Otherwise you'll need to get out the solvent anyway, then they're the same. When done with an acrylic painting session, I generally use a solvent to give the airbrush its final cleaning. So, though I've only had the Aztec, I'm very happy with it. But, get a good compressor! I already wore one out. David Lombard Rossmoor, Orange County, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34) From: "John Rodriguez Asti" (by way of Greg Lee) Subject: Dutch book info wanted Dear sirs: Recently I have bought the book "Onderzeebootjagers Holland-in Friesland-Klasse", of the dutch author A.J.C. Veenstra. I would want to know if anybody knows if it has been published one of the same author or editorial titled "KRUISERS: De Ruyter en De Zeven Provincien". In case that anybody knows it, where is possible to obtain a copy? Thank you John Rodriguez Asti -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35) From: Keith Butterley Subject: RN DD ID Hi guys, Would the nice person who sent me the spreadsheet last year, with the RN paint references and the RN DD pennant numbers please be kind enough to re-send it. My dog ate it :-) Keith Butterley Vancouver Canada, where when and if, we ever see the sun again, it will probably be reported as a UFO. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36) From: "Juliana Lowe" Subject: 1/72 Flower Class Bits Hi SMML readers I am in possesion of a Matchbox Flower,which is unfortunately incomplete as the previous owner, by his own admission, cut 3/4 of the keel from the two forward hull halves, ( used in a car kit conversion !)and used the two aft hull halves inverted in a diarama of a almost submerged wreck. I need some serious help here guys! Is there anyone on planet earth who can provide me with the stern halves for this model as I have already spoken to everyone I know about where I can find these parts, I have even contacted Revell Germany as to the availability of these items to no avail. You can contact me at: julesl@mpx.com.au Neil Lowe -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Terry Sumner" Subject: Contest in New England, USA, May 16th Hi all, Just a short note to let you all know about our club's very first contest, SCALECON 1, scheduled for May 16th in Killingly, Connecticut. Should be a very good show, big space for models and vendors, lots of good stuff for the raffle and at least some classes for ships. There will be 4 regular classes; 1/601 & under powered, 1/600 & larger powered, oar & sail all, submarines all, juniors ships all, and Best Ship overall. In addition, the theme is "Famous Firsts" since this is our first show, which means anything which was a famous first. I.E., the first nuke sub or surface ship etc. So if you are in the New England area on May 16th, join us, The IPMS Southern New England Scale Modelers, in our first endeavor. Geographically located in the northeast corner of Connecticut within driving distance of all of New England, much of New York and New Jersey. Terry Sumner -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: Happy99.exe distrubutor warning Hi Everyone, I hate to have to bring this unfortunate warning to you, but I had an incident happen over the weekend that everyone should be wary of. I responded to Mr. Costanzo's message on Sunday's SMML concerning the Tom's Modelworks Iowa conversion set. Here is the full text of the message I sent: Hi Louis, >> My story begins with a Tragedy. I had recently completed Tamiya's 1:350 Missouri, box stock, as the flagship of my 1:350 fleet. Unfortunately, that supremecy was challenged by my cat, who promptly capsized it (aargh, must shut door...) I was preparing to rebuild it, as all of the masts, crane and catapults had gone bye-bye. Then in an on-line store I saw Tom's Modelworks >1:350 Iowa Conversion kit! I decided to order it, naiively thinking that it was simply an Iowa-class detail kit (photo-ettch and what not) Low and behold, when it came, I realized it was a conversion to USS Iowa! << First, let me thank you for buying one of my kits. I did the pattern work on that conversion, and I also did the casting of a lot of the new sets that Tom's putting out. If any of the parts are bad in the set you got, let me or Tom know, and we'll get some replacements on the way. >> My question to you is, is it worth it? I'm quite pleased having MO, but Iowa is a rarer subject for models, it would be an interesting project. But is it worth the trouble? It would involve tearing down the forward superstructure and bridge completely, and replacing it with Iowa's resin components. The #2 gun tub needs to be changed too, as does the radar (but It's trashed so that doesn't matter) Since it displays Iowa in 1943, what else would I need to change? (my MO appears to be from 1945) What paint scheme would be appropriate? (something simple, I hope since painting an assembled ship is not easy) << What you could do is to strip you bridge area down to where the big conversion part would go. The only differences between what you've got on the kit and the new part are a couple of doors and a set of viewports just below the first walkaround level. If you've got a spare pair of photoetch doors and a strip of .010x.020 plastic, you could probably build the rest from there without too much work. I designed the parts as basically modified Missouri parts, so they'll integrate into what you've already got. >> Would it be easier to do a late-war Iowa and keep my current paint scheme?(forget the measure #, is sea blue hull, gray upper bow and superstructure, blue horizontal surfaces) thanks in advance, I would greatly appreciate any help you can offer. << The late war Iowa looked liked the Missouri (she was rebuilt in early 1945 to the missouri design). However, the 1943 Iowa carried Measure 22 like you have on your Missouri. If you used the conversion kit to rebuild, all you'd have to do is to paint the new parts to match what you've already got. Sorry to hear about the unfortunate experience with the cat (I have one too, so I can completely identify), and hope you're able to get the situation taken care of relatively painlessly. Talk to Ya! Jon << What I received in response was a copy of the Happy99.exe virus and a seperate message saying that he wouldn't be starting the conversion until he got out of school later in the year. The Happy99.exe virus was immediately deleted and no damage was done to my computer. Be wary of any messages that you may receive from this subscriber since they may be prefaced with the Happy99.exe virus. The Eudora count for this program is 15, and will arrive in one piece. Mine was imbedded in the mail, and needed to be decoded with UUEncode to activate, and wasn't decoded. A tutorial for getting rid of this virus can be found at: http://members.tripod.com/docsmiley/happy99.htm Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights "Yeah, I want Cheesy Poofs!" Hi gang, Louis must have picked up happy99 after he sent in his query, since I didn't get it. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume