Subject: SMML31/03/99VOL501 Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 09:51:38 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Happy99.exe distrubutor warning 2: Re: Lee 1/600 Ships 3: Iowa Conversion 4: Re: IPMS rules and regs. 5: Re: Super Tanker Kits 6: RFI: Who makes 1/350 PE rails? 7: Those nasty virus/worms 8: Re: Sumner/Gearing hull problems 9: Nowgorod - Modelkrak building instructions 10: Re: Anti-skid pads 11: Re: Strombecker models 12: Re: Question 13: Modeling in the Kitchen 14: Re: Anti Skid pad colors 15: Re: IPMS rules and regs. 16: Re: Air brush 17: Re: Inclining experiment 18: Re: Strombecker query -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: Re: Happy99.exe distrubutor warning Hi Everyone, I realized after reading my original message that I had left something out, and it needed to be in the first posting. This warning is meant to be more of an alert that something may arrive that is unwelcome rather than a warning that Mr. Costanzo is purposely sending out this virus. The documentation that's been published on the Web says that this virus is configured to be transparent, and that the people spreading it are unaware they have been infected. Louis and I are corresponding back and forth to try and isolate this problem and get it fixed. He has told me that he did receive the virus, but had not run it, so there is the possibility that this is a new strain of the virus that doesn't need to be run to have it activated. I sincerely apologise for not including this in the previous message, and adamately insist that Louis is on the up-and-up and is not purposely distributing this virus to others. Sorry for the confusion. Jon Warneke Iron Shipwrights -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Felix Bustelo Subject: Re: Lee 1/600 Ships Hi gang and Hello Joe, The Lee set of the Iowa-class BBs appear to be re-issues of the Otaki/ARII kits. The box art is almost indentical to the ARII kits that I have seen in stores. Javier Hueso, a fellow SMMLer, was kind enough to write a review of the New Jersey kit and sent along some scans of the parts. You can see this review on my website, International Maritime Modeling http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm The kit needs work, but then again, most 1/600 scale kits need work. Cheers, Felix Bustelo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Iowa Conversion Louis, Sorry, I think you misunderstood me, the missing conversion part is the BOW tub. The part provided in the Tamiya kit is accurate only (bizarrely) for New Jersey during WWII, although Missouri adopted this version later. Iowa, Mo, and Wisconsin as built all had a wide protected double-tub on the bow that gave them a 'pug-nosed' appearance - not the conformal shield found in the Tamiya kit. I tried to scratch-build it but, sadly, my skills were not up to the task. Perhaps a better modeller than me....... (and then send me a copy in the post !!!!!!) James Morley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: IPMS rules and regs. >> 1) Where can I find minimum IPMS/USA requirements? Is it on their website? << Yes, and no. Go to the IPMS home page and click "National Convention" you will find the rules and categories at that site. Below is the definition of plastic from IPMS. As you will see resin is mentioned specifically. 1. PLASTIC DEFINITION. For the National Contest "Plastic" is "any thermoplastic or thermosetting polymer, resin, or other materials which can be formed by heat, pressure, or vacuumforming". This includes, but is not necessarily limited to, polystyrene, ABS plastic, celluloids, polyethylene, vinyls, epoxy and polyester resins, fiberglass, acetates, acrylics, nylon, other synthetic fibers and monofillaments, and other plastic modeling compounds. Neoprene rubber is also defined as a plastic for this contest. Glazes and body putties (e.g. "Green Stuff") are not plastics; however, when used for filling seams, improving contours, creating unusual surfaces (e.g. "zimmerit" on armor), etc. they will be considered plastic. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Super Tanker Kits I believe Imex put out two or three super tankers a couple of years back in some odd scale. I can't remember since this is not my area of modeling but I saw them in the Squadron Mail Order supplement so I would check with them. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: LeadSled58@aol.com Subject: RFI: Who makes 1/350 PE rails? Ahoy Mates, I got a couple of very nice 1/350 ships for Christmas last, and now am finally getting around to put them together. But alas, I have no handrails in 1/350. Could someone please let me know who makes it and about how much comes in a set? Many thanks in advance. Tom -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Robert A. Clifton, R.A." Subject: Those nasty virus/worms These last few weeks hopefully emphasize enough the importance of getting a good virus detection and removal program. Between the "happy99.exe" worm and the new "Important message" worm it has gotten pretty nasty out there. I use Norton Anti-Virus though I'm sure that Dr. Solomon and MacAfee programs are just as effective. They generally cost about $70, but when you consider the damage these virus/worm programs can cause, it is well worth the price. They can all be purchased either on line or in your local computer store (CompUSA seems to always have them on sale). More than likely, the virus protection program that may have come with your system is invalid. You have to update your virus detection system on a regular basis to truly protect yourself. Each of the companies mentioned have almost daily updates on their web sites that can be downloaded in just a few minutes. As soon as I heard about each of these worms, I went to the Symantec web site (Norton Anti-virus) and downloaded the latest update. Thats all it takes. You can even set up your system to update automatically on a regular schedule while you are asleep. The Symantec program even reminds you every 30 days from your last update. What can be easier than that? If you do have the misfortune of getting one these things, the program alerts you and, and asks if you want to remove it. You have to do very little. It took John Warneke about two or three hours to remove that bug, and if you are not a computer wiz, it could take you a whole lot longer. Remember, it is no longer a matter of having your own system screwed up. You can now affect your friends and business relations as well. It is a humiliating experience to have people contact you and tell you that your system is corrupted (I know this for a fact) when you could have made an effort to protect yourself and your neighbors. It is no longer a simple matter of protecting yourself by not copying friends programs, now these viruses can get to you through email. It is way too easy to become infected. you will definitely buy one of these virus detection programs eventually (after it is too late), so why not just do it now. Please protect yourself, and everybody. Off my soap box, sorry to rant. Bob Clifton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Rick Heinbaugh Subject: Re: Sumner/Gearing hull problems Dan Jones wrote: >> No, the Albatross pair have much better hull shapes but the upperworks details are simple, none of the fine detail of the Skywave kits which are excellent except for the hulls. The thought has occurred that combining the two kits might be the answer in this scale. Has anyone out there done this? << I agree, all except for the Albatross kit's bow. I have always felt that the bow was angled back to the waterline too sharply (too much rake?). On the examples of this kit that I have built, I flattened off the forward edge just enough to score a groove in it. Then I added a wedge of .0020" sheet plastic, tapering from ~3/32" at the waterline to nothing at the deckedge. Then fair it in with putty and I think it looks much better. Rick Seattle, WA Where we're still living in a carwash, occasionally with the wind tunnel turned on. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Pletscher-Lenz-Schneider" Subject: Nowgorod - Modelkrak building instructions Hi Pieter Thanks to my secretary, who was born in Poland, I got a translation of the building instructions for Modelkrak kits. That's what she told me: Dane techniczne = Technical data Rozpoczecie budowy = Layed down Podniesienie bandery = Launched Wypornosc konstr. = Displacement Naped 2 maszyny parowe = Propulsion 2 steam machines Predkosc 6 w = Speed 6 knots Uzbrojenie 2 dziala 280mm = Armament 2 guns 280mm Zaloga 150 marynarzy = Complement 150 soldiers Malowanie modelu = Painting the model Bialy - nadbudowki, szalupy = White - deck house (superstructure), boat Zolty - kominy bez gornej czesci = Yellow - without upper part (barrel) Czarny - burty, gorne czesci kominow = Black - railing, upper part of gun (barrel) Naturalne drewno - poklad = Natural wood - deck Further painting instructions for other Modelkrak kits read as follows: Kadlub, nadbudowki - jasnoszaroniebieski = Hull, deck house (superstructure) - light gray Poklad - braz = Deck - brown Calocc szary = Rest gray Gorna czesc kominow - czarna = Upper part of gun (barrel) - black. For more informations on the Russian round ships see Dr. Clifford George Roffey, The Popoffkas, in Warship Internatinal No. 3/1974, pp. 218-239. One of the photos there shows NOWGOROD with white upperworks and funnels, large black funnel tops and a very dark, possibly black hull. Another one shows her with very light gray hull, upperworks and funnels, but yellow vents. A photo of a model of her shows hull, upperwork and funnels black with natural wooden boats. A short sequence of another model, I saw in a video, showed a white hull, light blue deck and upperworks, white funnels and vents, black gun barrels and white boats. A (contemporary?) painting of her sister ship, VICE-ADMIRAL POPOV, indicates very dark, possibly black hull and upperworks, yellow funnels and vents, large black funnel tops, a white deck house and white gun barrels Any questions left open? Falk Pletscher -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Anti-skid pads Rusty asked about painted decks and the pads. The pads weren't painted over, but areas of deck covered wholesale with anti-skid coating were. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Strombecker models I remember the models, though I never saw one of the ships built. My older cousin, who infected me with the modeling bug, built several of the aircraft. These were a combination of basswood (fuselage, wings, tail surfaces, etc.) and white metal castings (landing gear, belly tanks, bombs, rockets, etc.). They built up (at least his did) into quite nice models. Years later I managed to find the P-80 Shooting Star kit and build it. I suspect the ship models were similar in character, and likely used basswood instead of balso. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys (Who would love to find one of these ship kits!) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Question Hi Jeff: Welcome to the madhouse...er...list. If you're modeling a specific ship, you should look for photos of her to determine what paint scheme she wore. These schemes were called Measures by the USN. For an understanding of them, I'd recommend getting the very reasonably priced two paperback volumes on the subject put out by Tom Walkowiak at The Floating Drydock at: http://www.floatingdrydock.com/ Then, take a look at the on-line photos on NavSource: http://www.navsource.org/ How AKs in the Pacific were painted depends on what time period you're going to represent, and they wore lots of different Measures, from solid blues to dazzle patterns. Then, if you want to be as accurate as possible, you can purchase our USN paint chip sets so that you can mix your own favorite brand of model paints to get an accurate color match. Again, welcome. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Modeling in the Kitchen On the subject of kitchens, cooking, and modeling: I had the lower hull of Tom's Arizona in the oven doing a slow bake for some straightening. The Chinchilla was running around in the living room when there was a knock on the door. A neighbor had come over with her cat who took a sudden and somewhat disconcerting interest in the chinchilla. The cat jumped down and cornered the chinchilla who then proceeded to turn the cats nose into an ounce finely ground pate. After rounding up both traumatized animals (the chinchilla from under the book case, the cat from on top of the stereo), putting the chinchilla back in the cage (no easy task at this point), and reassembling the cat's nose, my neighbor asked me what I was cooking that smelled so good. That's when I realized that I had been baking the hull for close to 45 minutes! Fortunately it had not melted into a Dali BB and although somewhat darker, it is much straighter and actually fits better! However, the neighbor who thought roasting resin smelled delicious has just invited me over for dinner this Friday. What should I tell her? Best Regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Re: Anti Skid pad colors Hello Rusty, I believe that the for the first application, the decks were painted first and then the anti-skid pad were put down. They were generally black (confirmed by John Snyder). After they were in place I am not sure if they would be taken up to repaint the decks or painted over. I find it hard to believe that they would be taken up if the painting were done while underway. When I was in the service on USCG small boats we applied crush walnut shell to the decks before painting (LOTS of fun to crawl on with bare feet since you couldn't walk on it until the paint was applied!). In all the photos I have seen of the decks of the Fletchers, the pads do not seem to be painted over but appear to be much darker than the surrounding deck. Perhaps Jeff Herne or someone else could answer this better than me. I am doing the pads in a dark gray for scale effect and to simulate weathering and wear. If anyone disagrees or has suggestions, please let me know. Best regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: Re: IPMS rules and regs. >> 1) Where can I find minimum IPMS/USA requirements? Is it on their website? << The IPMS/USA National contest rules are printed in the IPMS/USA Journal. However, the only rule for entering the contest is that you be a member of IPMS. Any national chapter will qualify, you don't have to be a member of IPMS/USA. The "75%" rule was dropped 4 years ago at the Virginia Beach convention, so you could build a Fletcher out of brass if you wanted to. This was a good rule to eliminate, as the aftermarket industry was forcing a decision. After all, how do you determine "75% plastic"? Weight? Parts count? Surface area? Bruce -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Bruce Burden" Subject: Re: Air brush A basic observation on airbrushes - while there are some manufacturers that are probably better to avoid, you have to find an airbrush that is comfortable to hold. If you don't like how it feels, you won't be comfortable using it, so you won't use it. For myself, I don't like the Badger Crescendo, and I don't like the Aztec airbrushes. This doesn't in any manner imply that they aren't good brushes, I simply don't like to hold them, for different reasons, nor would I use them. So, find an airbrush you are comfortable with, rather than trying to find the "perfect" airbrush. >> 3. Don't get a double action brush - unless you are perfect, you get variable flow. << Well, yes and no. I started with a Paasche 'H', and it is/was a fine airbrush. However, having to adjust the air cap to clear clogs was NOT fun. I now have two double action airbrushes - a T&C Vega 2000 and a Sotar 20/20. The Vega is the general purpose airbrush, the Sotar for fine work, as it has an asjudtable limiter on it for paint flow. Yes, I could probably do the same thing with the Vega, sans the limiter, but the Sotar seems easier. Plus it is gravity feed, so I can use less paint for the details. >> 8. Forget solvent based paints unless you have good ventilation. Acrylics are harder to get used to but once you do, you will find they give better results with less trouble. << Whether it is solvent based or acrylics, you should wear a good respirator. I don't fancy covering my lungs with acrylics, even if they are "non-toxic". I also wear a latex glove, so I reduce the amount of paint I spray on myself. Bruce -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Dave Swindell Subject: Re: Inclining experiment >> A nagging question that seems to be concerned with a ship's ability to sustain a roll or list; I've often seen photographs of (U.S.) ships taken during "inclining experiments" (following completion or a refit?), and wonder just what it means. Anyone know for sure what is happening during such an experiment? << Hi Steve, Inclining experiments are carried out on building, or after major changes to a ship. The purpose is to determine whether the calculated stability is as predicted. All tanks (fuel, ballast etc) and weights (stores etc) are accurately measured; weight and location are then fed into the stability "computer" to give an accurate stability curve for that condition. A fixed weight is moved over set distances on the "computer" and predicted angles of list noted. This is then repeated on the ship with a real weight over the set distances and the angles of list or inclination accurately measured. If they match the calculated angles you're laughing, if they don't, the reason why has to be found and corrected otherwise your stability calculations aren't worth diddley, which could be potentially disastrous! Hope that enlightens. Dave Swindell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "hugh1lottie2" Subject: Re: Strombecker query I started building Strombecker kits in the 40šs, mainly aircraft models, and have many fond memories of them. The only ship that I built was the USS Gato and it is still setting on a shelf in the model room. The entire kit was from hardwood [7 parts] except the six metal [nails] parts that allowed the guns to traverse, periscopes and so on. All parts were shaped and ready to be glued. A small square of sandpaper and a tiny envelope of dry glue were in the kit. I donšt have the plans nor do I recall what they were like. Great memories! Hugh L. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume