Subject: SMML28/04/99VOL529 Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:29:56 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Models I would like to see 2: New kits in resin 3: Re: Corvette sterns 4: Re: Post WWII Kits I'd like to see. 5: Re: USS BATAAN deck colors 6: Re: FLETCHER anti-skid decals 7: Re: Witchita from North Africa to Okinawa 8: Re: SMML across America 9: Early War Fletcher Decals 10: Re: Flattening a stern 11: Normandie - FYI 12: Re: flattening a stern 13: Ships' Catapults 14: Paints 15: 1:700 Resin kits I would like to see 16: Re: SMML Across America 17: Revell Olympia Reissue 18: Re: Models I'd like to see 19: Re: Models you would like to see 20: Re: 1/72 carrier decks. 21: Re: scale deck planks at 1/700 and smaller 22: Re: Models you would like to see 23: Re: WICHITA colors 24: Re: SMML Accross America 25: Re: First Resin kit ... 26: Re: Pre WWII Models 27: Re: Scaling color to scale size of models/ 1905 Russian colors 28: Hobby Shops in L.A. 29: Re: Seaview 30: Bismarck 31: Re: Books on Radar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Anyone in the San Fransisco area? 2: Re: WTB -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" Subject: Re: Models I would like to see >> For Pre-War, I would love to see a Lexington Class Aircraft Carrier in her 1938 configuration, complete with 8" Guns in 1/350th scale. The F2F? Biplanes would also be a nice touch. << I'm not much into post-war, but I'd LOVE to see a 1/350 Lexington, either pre-war or in her wartime configuration (or both in one kit????). Michael Satin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: New kits in resin Obviously I'd love to see a 1/350 USS Nimitz..... with options for sisterships etc etc, but I suppose it will never happen. Within the realm of possibility, however, would be a "backdating" set for Tamiya's USS Enterprise circa 1975 - Beehive island, AA weapons, F8 Crusaders et al. This would be a good way of using GMM's beautiful Hi-Viz decal set (I can't see how else it could accurately be used), as well as breathing new life into an old kit. Tom's?, Classic Warships?, Flagship?, would anyone like to try it?? James Morley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: J.L.Pickstock@lboro.ac.uk (Les Pickstock) Subject: Re: Corvette sterns If I've understood correctly what I've read and seen in photos, the "flatter" stern seen on later British and Canadian corvettes refers to the curve put into the plating rather than a major design change. The early corvettes had a more pronounced curve to the plating in the vertical axis, the classic "spoon" shape of a whaler type stern. Later ships had the same rounded stern but the plates wrapped around the stern were flat in the vertical axis making them easier to build. Flower class ships did not have the "squared off" stern of the later "Castle" class ships. The Matchbox kit has this "flatter" appearence as befitted the Canadian built and later 'Long Forecastle' British built Flowers. I would of course bow to superior knowledge (especially John Lambert). Comments John? Les Pickstock. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Lisa and Bill Wiseman Subject: Re: Post WWII Kits I'd like to see. Between My father and I we have more than 50 years combined time in the US Navy (Dad 39 Me 14). I have built some of the Ships he served on but many of them are impossible to find References on; much less kits. For dad: I scratch built a 1/350 of the Gearing Class Destoyer USS Agerholm DD-826 for him (then somebody came out with a kit) I built the OHP Class Frigate USS Clifton Sprague FFG-16 (His "Twilight" Sea Tour) 1/700 From the "wish list" How about Minesweepers and Command ships. Particularly the MCS Mine Warfare Command and Support ships Namely: USS Ozark MCS-2 (My father is a "Plank Owner") USS Frigate Bird CT-21 (Also one of Dad's "homes") Avenger Class Mine Countermeasure Ships USS Warrior MCM-10 (One of my "homes") Auxillaries Gompers Class Destroyer Tenders USS Puget Sound AD-38 (One of mine) Suribachi Class Ammo Ships USS Suribachi AE-21(One of Dad's) Landing ships Newport Class LST USS Boulder LST -1190 (One of dad's) USS Peoria LST 1183 (Mine) I prefer to build in 1/350 but 1/700 will do. I suppose I'll keep wishing. Bill Wiseman HM1 USN -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: USS BATAAN deck colors Felipe: The flight deck would have been stained with blue Flight Deck Stain 21, while the metal decks would have been painted Revised Deck Blue 20-B (darker and more gray than the flight deck stain). The flight deck numbers are black. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: FLETCHER anti-skid decals Let me add my 2 cents' worth here about Duane Fowler and his product. Not only is Duane one of the true gentlemen of this hobby (quit blushing Duane--take it like a man!), but he is one heck of an artist when it comes to decals. If you're building a 1/700 FLETCHER, you WILL want a set of these decals. Almost as much as adding the photoetch, these decals will make the ship sparkle and come alive. Makes me glad I've still got mine in the box, so I don't have to go back and add these. I can hardly wait for the 1/350 version! Also makes me want to get my Alps printer set up.... John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Witchita from North Africa to Okinawa Frederick Wagner asked whether Witchita had an unusual war record, haveing been "in everything from North Africa to Okinawa." The Navy had to use and reuse its thin assets in a two ocean war and still find time to squeeze in refits. My dad's ship USS Charles Carroll APA28 landed troops at North Africa, Sicily, Salerno, Normandy, Southern France, and Okinawa. It was the Carroll that took Ernie Pyle to Okinawa. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: CapnAgee@aol.com Subject: Re: SMML across America Kurt.. Hope you got to see the 1/48 plexiglass Essex Class model. The true scale types probably wouldn't like it, but the work to build it must have been great - all the compartments, etc. Ray in Arizona -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Duane Fowler Subject: Early War Fletcher Decals Hello Mark, >> Is there any reason to think they won't work on a late war Fletcher from Skywave? << The Fletcher Class anti-skid walkway decal set that I designed was made and measured to fit the Tamiya kits which are of the USS Fletcher, DD445 - an early war round bridge Fletcher. I am not sure if they would fit any other manufacturer's kits. I do not know if they would fit any other manufacturer's kits. The Tamiya kits represent the Fletcher very close to it's launch when their was very little modification and not many AA. There was no aft 20mm tubs between the depth charge racks and only the two 20mm placements on either side of the waist and the single 20mm tubs on either side of the superstructure below the bridge. The only 40mm placement was the one over the after steering position. The decal kit that I did reflects these positions. The solid walkways are specifically for the USS Fletcher while the tiled walkways are a generic set designed for any early round bridge Fletcher. The Skywave kit, I believe it a later square bridge version with more AA (I may be wrong). The basic decal sheets for the main deck and the Superstructure deck should still fit but the bridge deck and and Pilot House roof will not. Also, the aft part of the main deck will probably have to be modified. You will notice, however, that I supplied a lot of extra tiles in strips one, three, four, and five tiles wide (2', 6', 8', and 10' wide). There is enough, I believe, to equip any configuration needed, as long as you are willing to do some delicate trimming. All of the hull numbers, draught marks and the flags would still be applicable, of course. If there is a call for a set specifically for the Skywave kit I may be able to do it. However I do not have the kit at this time and may have to borrow it from someone to make the measurements. Best regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Flattening a stern I would expect the "hair dryer" method to flatten the corvette's stern to result in some peculiar distortion to the hull. Personally, I would beef up the stern internally with epoxy and then recarve or file the stern from the outside to the shape you want. Of course, you want to make sure the scale length will come out right before you do this. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Normandie - FYI For all you fans of the liner Normandie, I noticed that Model Expo Inc. lists the paperback PICTURE HISTORY OF THE NORMANDIE for $12.95 US in its catalog. They are online at http://www.modelexpoinc.com Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Ron Hillsden" Subject: Re: flattening a stern Malcom, thermoplastics such as styrene, have a memory. When you heat them, they want to return to their original form and you have to control where they go. You can control it by making a solid wood form in the shape of the stern and bending to it. I'm not sure if a hairdryer has the horsepower to do it to that thick hull. You may have to go to an electric paint stripper. The main disadvantage of heating and bending is that you will probably get one chance, and if it doesn't work, you will have to use the following alternative to recover. So why not start with it? I would cut the stern off and replace it with one laminated from styrene sheets. You can make as many as you like until you are happy with the end product. You will still have to make a plug the right size and shape to fill the hole, but you will get the right shape and proper length! This isn't such a tough task when you think about the amount of scratchbuilding and kit-bashing you are going to have to do on the Airfix/Revell model to get a good model! Ron in Victoria BC where our spring sprung a couple of weeks ago, but we are sharing Alaska's spring now! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Bob LaBouy Subject: Ships' Catapults Dear Shane, Saw Robert Lockie's note today and hope you'll be able to pass on this note. The FSM article and accompanied drawing may be for some catapult, but if you take a look at it vs. almost any photos you'll find from the pre- or WW II era, you'll notice some major differences. The width of the catapult in that article is way over sized and while I can't say the author, who is reportedly a technical artist doesn't have some source available to him, I've need seen such a design nor anything close to it. The catapult aboard the USS Alabama is the P-6 powder driven catapult loaned to them by the Pensacola museum and is correct. I've had a few folks contact me and for the sake of trying to correct some of the misinformation and hopefully to get modelers started in what I believe to be the correct direction, finally got a small web page out which includes some of the information I've collected over the last 25+ years on this subject. My address for the site is: http://www.members.home.net/ok3wirebob/ I welcome all interested in this fascinating aspect of Naval Aviation. Thanks, Bob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Paints Badger Air-Brush Company has released their new line of water based acrylic paints, Modelflex Marine Colors. The paints are airbrush ready as bottled in 1 oz. bottles. No thinning is necessary (however, for those who insist, use distilled water for thinning). Easy water clean up. The line as released is made up of 56 colors as well as Dull Coat, Matte Coat and Gloss Coat finishes and Retarder (to extend drying time). Colors include US Navy grays, blues and black, colors for classic wooden ships, and current commercial marine colors. These paints are based on the same formula that has made Badger's Modelflex paints so popular with model railroaders. The pigments are very fine and coverage and adhesion are very good. Drying times are very short and decals can be applied in less than one hour. Modelflex Marine Colors 16-401 Anti-fouling Red Oxide 16-402 Navy Red 16-403 Coast Guard Red 16-404 Coast Guard Orange 16-405 Deck Tan 16-406 Navy Brown 16-407 Quartermaster Brown 16-408 Navy Buff 16-409 Panama Buff 16-410 Navy White 16-411 Deck Green 16-412 Hull Black 16-413 Wrought Iron Black 16-414 Bulwarks Red 16-415 Caprail Green 16-416 Midship Blue 16-417 White 16-418 Slate Gray 16-419 Umber 16-420 Yellow Ochre 16-421 Hull Cream 16-422 Windjammer White 16-423 Windjammer Yellow 16-424 Windjammer Red 16-425 Windjammer Green 16-426 Windjammer Blue 16-427 Salmon Buff 16-428 Orange Ochre 16-429 Shipyard Rust 16-430 Shipyard Grimy Gray 16-431 Deck Red 16-432 Dark Deck Gray 16-433 Tug Light Blue 16-434 Tug Medium Blue 16-435 Tug Deep Blue 16-436 Tug Light Green 16-437 Tug Olive Green 16-438 Tug Orange 16-439 Tug Yellow 16-440 Tug Light Gray 16-441 Army Corps Engineer Buff 16-442 Golden Yellow 16-443 Bright Silver 16-444 #5 Standard Navy Gray(1937) 16-445 #20 Standard Deck Gray 16-446 5-L Light Gray (early 1941) 16-447 5-O Ocean Gray (early 1941) 16-448 5-D Dark Gray (early 1941) 16-449 5-H Haze Gray (late 1941) 16-450 5-O Ocean Gray (late 1941) 16-451 5-S Sea Blue A (late 1941) 16-452 5-N Navy Blue (late 1941) 16-453 Deck Blue 20B (late 1941) 16-454 #82 Black (1943) 16-455 5-P Pale Gray (1943) 16-456 5-L Light Gray (1943) 16-457 Dull Coat 16-458 Matte Coat 16-459 Gloss Coat 16-460 Retarder Suggested Retail Price: $3.25 / 1oz. Bottle - Available Now - April 27, 1999 I have been testing and using these paints extensively for several months and they are very easy to use, cover good and adhere very well to both unprimed and primed surfaces. Look for the paints in hobby shops (if they do not have it yet, ask them to get it in) or from Wyn-Wyn inc., at 1-888-499-6996 for mail order sales with shipping direct from Badger. I will answer any questions SMML listees might have regarding the paints. Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Louis Costanzo Subject: 1:700 Resin kits I would like to see In my opinion, there is a general absence of resin carriers. I agree Lexington would be great, as would Yorktown or Essex (ww2 fit). Other models I would like to see: BC Goeben CL Kirov CGN Kirov CG Slava Other Russian late 1940's-1950's CL's i.e. Chapeav, Anevsky, etc. LHD Wasp BB Montana (that would be very interesting, if you could get info on this might-have-been) What do you think? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "mkrumrey" Subject: Re: SMML Across America Kurt: If you are in the Little Creek area of Virginia, not to far from Norfolk, in the old Intelligence center school house, there were two models, one of a midway class carrier with the angle deck, and some other vessel. It has been 14 years since I was at the school house, but if you make it there, you take a left once you get in the main gate. Also, NAB Little Creek is home to a variety of ships of the "Gator Navy", and there is also the LCAC base. All of which I believe, are open to the public. If in Norfolk, although not at all affilitated with ships in any way, I would recommend a stop at the General Douglas MacArthur Memorial. All of the General's "stuff" is on display, and is quite impressive. No matter what opinnions one may have of MacArthur, good or bad, this place is truly an outstanding memorial to one of America's greatest war time Generals. Then in Dam Neck is the bar made famous in the movie U.S. Navy Seals. Enjoy. Mark Krumrey New Richmond WI Where Harley fever is at an almost terminal level. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Revell Olympia Reissue Advertised for reissue in May 1999, retail price is going to be US $16.75 but available for $13.39 from Phoenix (http://www.phoenix-model.com). Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Models I'd like to see For pre WWII I'd like a 1/350 USS Langley Note that I am behaving and not making the assumption that pre WWII goes back to be beginning of time!! :-) If it does, a USS Brooklyn ACR3 in 1/350 For post WWII, perhaps a Korean war era US sub Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Marc Flake Subject: Re: Models you would like to see In 1/700, I'm hoping to see a waterline version of the USS Texas (I'm not really relishing taking a saw to Viking's full hull version and I'm not quite sure Classic Warships is going to release their kit.) To round out my collection of battleship classes of WWII, an Arkansas. In the cruiser realm, a Houston and a Marblehead (1941). In carriers, a Gambier Bay and a Langley. Some auxilliaries would be nice, too, like an attack transport. Don't normally build in 1/350, but I would like a German predreadnaught in this scale -- doesn't matter which one. Kaiser Wilhelm would do. Finally, in 1/72, an Elco PT boat. Marc in Mansfield (TX) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: CaptainOD@aol.com Subject: Re: 1/72 carrier decks. I did an article on these for FineScale Modeler a long time back, can't remember the issue, but it was reprinted in one of Kalmbach books called "Scale Model Detailing" which may help you. Bob O'Donovan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Fritz Koopman Subject: Re: scale deck planks at 1/700 and smaller Hi Rusty. I'm sorry this response comes so late, but I've been out of town for the last three weeks, and catching up on all the smml issues has been murder. Anyway I have no Idea if this happens to be WEMs' "secret", but the following process has been common knowledge among wooden ship modelers for centuries. What you do is this: Take squadron/evergreen plastic sheets that are as THICK as you want your planks to be WIDE. round thecorners off an entire edge of each sheet and then laminate the sheets verticaly with the edges lined up. Now look at the edge and that is your planked surface. It should look somehting like the edge of a closed book. Indeed if you want the thinnest planks, you will need to use laminated paper instad of plastic.You can make your planks as thin as any plastic sheet available. An added trick is to manually cut each sheet edge so that it is almost, but not quite exactly, straight. This way, some planks will be higher or lower than others, and you can get good planking detail using washes to make the lower plank areas slightly darker. The end result is that individual planks look like...well... individual planks. When building wooden hull from scratch, this method is extremely useful, since you can build the solid hull using a "vertical" bread and butter type construction, with the upper edge of each slab forming a deck plank on the finnished model. If there is anyone out there that finds this explanation confusing, just let me know and I'll draw up some illustrated instructions and post them to the pic site. Enjoy Fritz Koopman In Marblehead Massachusets where the weather is getting just warm enough that a sea breeze actually smells like a sea breeze. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Chris Neel Subject: Re: Models you would like to see I personally have been waiting for a 1/700 USS Wasp (CV7) in resin as a pre-war (barely) candidate for your survey. Its the only WWII US aircraft carrier class I have not seen represented as a kit. Other than the USS Langley that is (sort of an WWII a/c carrier), which also would make a nice candidate for a 1/700 kit in the pre-war category. cheers! cn -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: WICHITA colors I checked the on-line photo, and found it is one reproduced in Friedman's_U.S. Cruisers_. WICHITA is in Standard Navy Gray #5 on all vertical surfaces, with metal deck surfaces (including the forecastle) in #20 Standard Deck Gray. Hull, superstructure, and stacks are all one color, with different reflectance causing the appearance of different colors. The markings on the turret tops were applied for different war games and probably were black (again, reflectance causing the circle on turret #3 to appear lighter than the stripes on turrets #1 and #2). What appear to be bands of color around the stacks are the shadows caused by the railing that encircled the upper portion of the stacks; the uppermost cap on each stack was painted black. Hope this helps. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys P.S. I just bought a copy of the video "Dive Bomber", filmed in Technicolor in 1941 and starring Errol Flynn. Somewhat corny story line, but phenomenal color shots of--and aboard--ENTERPRISE, plus at least one aerial shot of SARATOGA, and lots and lots of footage of Devastators, Vindicators, Curtiss Helldivers (biplane version), and even some Buffaloes. Sure shows off the Standard Navy Gray #5, the mahogany flight deck stain, and chrome yellow flight deck markings. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: SMML Accross America MDDoremus@aol.com wrote: >> Do you actually make enough from selling photos to afford this long a road trip???? Lucky you!!!! << Well, no. I kept my day job! >> On your way to Savannah, check out Kingsport Submarine Base, near the FL-GA border on I-95. << Is there any access to this base? My understanding is that Trident bases are very highly secured, by some serious folks with no sense of humor. I've photographed the above water exterior of an Ohio before in any event, but haven't had the chance to tour one yet. Kurt Greiner SeaPhoto -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Ed Grune Subject: Re: First Resin kit ... Roger Clemens wrote >> I'd like to suggest Lone Star Models' USS Winslow at the large scale of 1/192. I paid $36 for my kit. Since it is a small Spanish-American War era torpedo boat, it is still only about 10" long. It has a two piece hull and I'm sure it will make into a nice model, no matter what your skill level is. It comes with some metal parts but no photoetch. But there are PE kits and accessories that you could buy for this scale. << I'd like to disagree with Roger on the Winslow. I built it and I know that you and I discussed the kit's hull warpage here on the list. No railings are included -- you'd have to locate suitable replacements or scatch your own. The white metal is a little clunky. Don't get me wrong - its a nice kit. Its just not for a beginner. It's better to get a kit with all the parts included. If you could find it, I'd recommend something like the BWN S-class sub in 1/350. The PE brass is in mostly straight runs with just a few bends. You'd get a change to practice your skills cementing brass with CA on some simple pieces. Another possible starter kit is WEM's Vosper MTB. Again, its PE has mostly straight runs and few simple bends. I haven't built it, but what about the Gulfstream U-boat? How about that for a first kit? For your first resin & brass kit follow the KISS principle, Keep It Simple, Stupid. Ed Mansfield, TX 85 and sunny, it was a beautiful North Texas spring day -- and I had to spend it indoors. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Jeffrey Arban Subject: Re: Pre WWII Models I'd like to see the USS Langley, or any "Great White Fleet" ships. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Minadmiral@aol.com Subject: Re: Scaling color to scale size of models/ 1905 Russian colors Hi Guys; Will whoever has the article on adding white to correct a color to model scale please tell me which correction ( % white to add ) for 1:6000 scale? Yes 1:6000 !!! Wargame fleets. I just got a heavy box with about 80% of the ships from 1900-1945. Other 20% on back-order. Need I bother to ask about photo-etch? I`m reading Newton McCully`s book right now,_The McCully Report_. He was a US Naval officer assigned at Port Arthur and Vladivostok durring the Russo-Japanese War. I have believed for 28+ years that the 1st. Pacific (Russian) Squadron was painted chocolate brown and the DD/TB were black. McCully says cinamon brown and "dark" khaki for CL and larger, with some having cinnamon hulls and "dark"khaki above. DD/TB were "dark"khaki. Photo`s on cover, though B&W tend to look much lighter than chocolate brown. Ships on cover include Rossia and Gromoboi. Anyone doing ships for this fleet may contact me off list and I will copy appropriate pages for you Chuck Duggie Lots of Little Lead Lumps -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Greg Lee Subject: Hobby Shops in L.A. Howdy Friends, I will be in L.A next week, and was wondering where the best place to pick up some GMM Brass will be? (Sorry Loren, was In WA Last year:-) Any points of interest (Naval or Modelling) I should make an effort to see? Thanks gang, Greg Lee (Listmaster - Retired) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: "Atle Ellefsen" Subject: Re: Seaview I lately rediscovered my model of the 60's TV series "Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea" sub Seaview, almost intact after 30-odd years at the bottom of my kit scrap box. It is, as I can recall, a Japanese model - there was an Aurora kit which I also had, but lost 25 years ago. The Aurora version was somewhat larger. I have restored her, and now it would be very interesting to sound the "market" to find out if this is a "rare" kit. Does anybody have a reference? Photos will be displayed on the IMM site later. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: "Dave Pearce" Subject: Bismarck I have been offered the book 'Battleships of the Bismarck Class' by Gerhard Koop and Klaus-Peter Schmolke by a mail order firm. Can anyone provide an opinion on its worth as a reference. Dave Pearce In Sussex where it is sunny and blowing a gale -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: DKrakow105@aol.com Subject: Re: Books on Radar Hi Folks, Concerning reference works on the history of naval radar, I highly recommend: "Radar at Sea" by Derek Howse, (1993) Naval Insitutue Press. Describes the development of all types of radar in the RN in WWII. Not many illustrations, but a very interesting historical work and a good read. If you can read German: "Die Deutschen Funkmessverfahren bis 1945" (1986) and "Die Deutschen Funkstorverfahrung bis 1945" (1982) by Fritz Trenkle. These books were published by AEG and are the best and most complete references on KM radar yet available. They have numerous photos and drawings. Cheers Dave Krakow -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: leefrancis.wilhelmsen@concrea.no Subject: Anyone in the San Fransisco area? A little off topic maybe, but I'd like to get in touch with any helpful souls in the San Fransisco area. The reason I ask is because I'm traveling to San Fransisco this summer and I need a little information. Hotels, modeling, ships, etc. Please get in touch with me off the list. I'd apprecite any help you could give. Best regards Lee Francis -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: WTB Dear Tom and Jerry: Well, I may have something for you both I have two old Revell kits-USS BON HOMME RICHARD-CV-31 which with research could be converted to USS TICONDEROGA-CV-14 and USS RANGER CV-61. Yes, it has the FLU cutlass in it's air wing. Orginially REVELL produced 4 all ships - FORRESTAL, SARAGOTA, RANGER and INDEPENDENCE so for the the late 50's or early 60''s they were the same as kits. I'm asking $20.00. If interested drop me a line Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume