Subject: SMML27/05/99VOL558 Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 00:06:37 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re Aztek airbrush. 2: Aztek Airbrush - cleaning 3: Re: SMML Across America 4: Re: Aztec Airbrush Cleaning 5: Re: Pirate Radio Ships and the USCG 6: Multiple - research, Vietnam 1/540, turrets, and questions 7: sidebar to rocket torpedoes 8: Re: Making PE stronger 9: Scale Clocks 10: Cleaning Aztec airbrushed of acrylics 11: Re: U-505 12: Re: Submarine Obits 13: Cleaning Aztek airbrush 14: Bikini wrecks 15: Radio Pirate Ships 16: Wrecks 17: Re: Aztek Airbrush -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: LCMM Ship Model Show -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "J. London" Subject: Re Aztek airbrush. The best stuff I have found for cleaning dried acrylic paint off brushes is acetone. This could work on an airbrush nozzle but take care as acetone will attack certain plastics. Mike London -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Aztek Airbrush - cleaning From extensive experience with airbrushing water based acrylic paints I have found that acrylic paints can be cleaned from airbrushes with ammonia in water. The longer it has dried the more ammonia you should put in the water. From what I know of the Aztek it is safe with most strong hydrocarbon solvents so ammonia should not harm it in any way. Well diluted ammonia is a good everyday cleaner for the airbrush when using acrylic paints. It is best to use the clear ammonia rather than the stuff with soap added. Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: SMML Across America Mike Leonard wrote: >> Hope you managed not to pick up any speeding tickets along the way. Many of us were with you in spirit, you can be sure. << I appreciate that - the emails I was getting along the way kept me company at all those hotels! Surpisingly, not one ticket in all those miles, despite my "pushing the envelope" with regards to the speed limit. Several years ago I traded my beloved '71 Trans Am ( a white with blue racing strip magnet for law enforcement) in for a new mini-van, a bit more practical for home building projects and hauling the odd 1/96 scale battleship. One unintended benefit was a certain amount of highway stealth, as it does not look capable of speeding. >> These figures reminded me of those typical reports that come right after a deployment: how many miles steamed, how many gallons of fuel burned, how many eggs consumed, etc. << I was tempted to include those types of figures, but it might artificially boost McDonald's stock prices. I will say that the family Vanster averaged 22.5 mpg to my surprise. Any other figures would have to be gundecked.... Kurt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: WFulp@aol.com Subject: Re: Aztec Airbrush Cleaning I have used the Aztec Airbrush for about 5 years. It is the best airbrush I have ever used although I soon found out that the nozzles are VERY prone to clogging and eventually have to be replaced. I extended the life of my nozzles by disassembling them and cleaning them. First, take the cylinder in the nozzle out. Then, carefully remove the needle from the cylinder making sure not to damage the spring. I then took the 3 parts of the assembly and dropped them in a small jar of liquid (not paste) paint stripper with a tight lid on it. A couple of minutes of shaking completely removed any and all paint residue. After the parts are good and dry I reassembled the nozzle. Don't leave the parts in to soak as paint stripper is very strong and will attack the plastic in a short while. I have some nozzles that are 2 or 3 years old that still work. The problem with replacing the nozzles is that the Aztec replacements are $9.95 a piece so I replace as few as possible. Hope this helps! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Katz, Gene S" Subject: Re: Pirate Radio Ships and the USCG Howdy, While not really a "pirate" radio ship, the US Coast Guard manned and operated a converted vessel for the task of broadcasting behind the cold war iron curtain. I think it was a VOA/USCG, probably jointly with CIA or some front, program. The ship was called Radio Liberty or Radio Freedom or somesuch, and may have been a WW2 minesweeper, trawler, or possibly a Flower class K pennant type. I saw pictures of it in an old Electronics magazine from the late 40s or early 50s. Don't have any other details, sorry. Would make an interesting project, a high powered radio station on the high seas. Anyone know of it? Gene -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: jpoutre@lehman.com (Joseph Poutre) Subject: Multiple - research, Vietnam 1/540, turrets, and questions Several subjects, as per usual: My own words on "original research": I, too, have been told in the past on this list to do my own research. What I suggest to those with more resources than others is that if someone asks a question, don't just tell them to research; help him by pointing out good references in book, magazine and on-line form. For instance, I'm looking for references on AOEs. I found "Gray Ships and Black Oil" and bought it. Unfortunately, while fascinating reading, it's not much use for a modeler due to the limited photos, and complete lack of color photos and drawings. I personally have a list of tips on building resin models, and I forward it to anyone who posts a question on building in resin. For Glenn E. Neklason: As far as I can find, the only Vietnam era aircraft available in any scale near 1/540 are in the old Revell 1/540 Essex-class SCB-125 variants. For example, the Lexington AVT version has A-4s and F-4s. I am guessing that you have one of her sisters already since that's the only carrier model in that scale. If you want enough of them, you can ask White Ensign Models to make to some, but you have to order at least 20 sets. Nautilus Models has announced an upgrade kit for those models, but the release date is in 2000. For James D. Gray, on Tumbling turrets: BB turrets are dropped in holes in the ships, and stay there due to their immense weight. If the ship rolls far enough for the turrets to fall out on their own, the ship is going down anyway. The Scapa Flow ships settled on their keels, while the Bismarck turned turtle while going down. Now for my own questions: I will be building some models for display in my new home town of Bayonne, NJ. They are: PF-21 Bayonne (1/700 and eventually 1/96) an Elco 80' PT boat (Revell 1/72) and two WWI-type wooden subchasers, (Glencoe 1/74, if I can find them) one WWI, one WWII. I need modelers references on them - colors, details, markings, closeup photos. I know of Al Ross' books, but need to know if: 1. They are good _modeler's_ references 2. They include all of the above classes, and 3. If they don't, what good references are there out there for the ones not covered? For the Bayonne, I have one blurry B+W photo, which shows she carried Measure 21 camo in WWII, but doesn't show details on parts like bridge shape and armament. I can fudge it in 1/700, but not in 1/96. FYI: It's the beginning of Fleet Week here in NYC, and I can see the ships heading for the harbor. Unfortunately for me, the USS Trenton won't be coming. I had hoped to do a photo tour of her, since I plan to build her some day. Maybe some manufacturer will eventually start on amphibs to go with those lonely LHA and LPH models. Joseph Poutre, aka The Mad Mathematician N2KOW Trustee and Co-Webmaster, Battleship New Jersey Historical Museum Society http://www.bb62museum.org/ Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: sidebar to rocket torpedoes In partial answer to the question of whether Western navies are working on rocket torpedoes: Pascal Plant, a Washington D.C. inventor, tried to interest the Union Navy in a rocket-powered torpedo to use against the Confederate ironclad CSS Virginia. Demonstrated for Navy Secretary Gideon Welles in December 1862, both torpedoes missed their target, but one of them struck and sank the sloop Diana, anchored well away from the intended target. Welles and the Union Navy brass were unimpressed and abandoned the project. A year later, CSA Colonel E.H. Angamar designed and built both a rocket powered torpedo and a rocket-powered torpedo boat to deliver it. Although the Confederate General Staff had no faith in the enterprise, an attack was allegedly made on the Union fleet in Mobile Bay. Historian Mark K. Ragan has been unable to locate any further information regarding that attack. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Making PE stronger >>Is there a way to make photo etched brass a little stronger without adding to much to the cost of making it. Maybe its just my old shaky fingers but I seem to use a lot of it up. Do you all have the same problem are just a few like me that maybe doesn't really take enough time in handling it or really don't know how to handle it. Maybe Rusty with Flagship Models since he's the pro up to his brass in brass can give us old timers a little insight in making photo brass a little stronger are advise us the best way in handling it. << Andy, Believe me, I sympathize with you. My fat fingers screw up my fair share of PE. To answer your question, I can make brass details stronger. Right now I use half hard brass exclusively. There are several metals I could use (copper, stainless steel, brass, nickel) but to keep the cost down I use half hard brass. Half hard brass has an alloy mixed in that gives the parts less "memory" or will not spring back once bent and is easy to cut. When I first started in the business, I used half hard stainless steel but in 1/350 and larger scales I got lots of complaints that it was just too hard (I sound like Goldilocks) to cut. Using thicker brass is an answer to the problem, but the thicker you go the minimum width line etched also increases causing a bulky looking detail set, so it's a catch 22. I already use thicker brass than GMM or Tom's Modelworks. This is the major criticism I get when comparing my sets to GMM and Tom's. Since they use thinner brass and stainless, their lines are a hair (and I mean a hair) thinner than mine. Even with that in mind, my 1/700 Arleigh Burke set has 5 bar rails with correct spacing! I could go to stainless steel on my 1/700 sets but the cost would rise and I would get a ton of gripes. I'm afraid to keep up with quality of my competition I'll have to keep things where they are for now. The client wants accuracy, quality and incredibly fine detail. If they can't get it here they will go elsewhere. Not the answer you wanted, but at least you know why these parts are so delicate. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Bill_Pasenelli@afsb.com Subject: Scale Clocks I have seen photos and models of thirties era battleships with "range clocks" prominently displayed on their masts. Does anyone know how these operated and why? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: Cleaning Aztec airbrushed of acrylics Try using cellulose thinners, which will shift most things and will not damage the plastics of the airbrush itself. Robert Lockie Cambridge UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: U-505 When I saw the U-505, about a year and a half ago, they were seriously discussing the need to build an enclosure for the boat. It has been exposed to the Chicago winter weather for decades and deterioration is a problem. I guess the big issue was where the money was to come from. Appropriately enough, one of the corporate sponsors listed was Rustoleum. Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Submarine Obits >> The obituary went into quite a lot of detail regarding the circumstances surrounding the sinking of the USS Cochino on an intelligence gathering mission in August of 1949. However, there was no real detail concerning the mission itself does anyone have any information? << There's an entire chapter on the loss of the Cochino "up North' in the recent book "Blind Man's Bluff". It was basically an early mission against the Soviet Union with a new Guppy conversion Fleet sub stuffed with electronic listening gear. Pull down radio and radar frequencies and such.... Became famous (infamous) due to battery explosion and susequent harrowing rescue mission by another submarine. The book covers many cold war submarine espionage missions, including the tapping of undersea cables in both the Sea of Okhotsk and up around the Kola pennisula. Definitely A+++ reading. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Procladius@aol.com Subject: Cleaning Aztek airbrush Mike Leonard asked about cleaning the Aztec airbrush after use with acrylics. I have a Model Master double action, which I believe is the Aztek design marketed by Testors. I like it too, but it does clog with acrylics. Model Master acrylic thinner will not remove dried paint in the needle assembly. Immediately after use I shoot distilled water or acrylic thinner through it. Then I unscrew the nozzle, remove the needle assembly, and drop it into a paint jar half full of Model Master acrylic cleaning solution, seal the jar and let it soak for a while. Then I store the needle assembly in a jar of acrylic thinner or distilled water. When I want to paint again I first test the needle by pushing it back and forth with the end of a pair of forceps to see if it sticks. If it does, a quick swirl in thinner and /or cleaning solution, followed by more back and forth with the forceps usually loosens any remaining dried paint. When the needle goes back and forth without sticking, I put it in the nozzle, screw the nozzle onto the body, and load my paint. The key sems to be soaking the needle assembly in something stronger than acrylic thinner. The cleaning solution is pretty potent stuff. This works for me, but I am interested in hearing what others have to say on the subject. Charles Watson (Who, as an exercise in masochism, has been building the 1/700 Aoshima Taiyo) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Michael C. Smith" Subject: Bikini wrecks I saw some materials on diving on wrecks at Bikini in 1992 at the Admiral Nimitz symposium in San Antonio. They had drawings of some of the wrecks, including a huge side & top view of Saratoga, and some photos of divers on the keel up the (capsized) Arkansas. I have no idea who these people were, unfortunately. They may have had some magazine or book, but I don't know what it was, if so. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Chris Christenson" Subject: Radio Pirate Ships In response to the several postings on the radio ships I heard something on Paul Harvey's News and Comment (ironically on the radio) this past Monday or Tuesday regarding radio ships causing interference with the air traffic control systems at several airports in Israel. Anyone else in the US hear this?----don't know if Paul Harvey is broadcast overseas. Chris Christenson Ord Nebraska -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Seitz Mark Civ AMARC/FM-1 Subject: Wrecks Folks, Speaking of wrecks, I came across this website on the Scapa Flow wrecks. I thought any other wreck-types might enjoy it. http://www.rmplc.co.uk/eduweb/sites/jralston/rk/scapa/wrecks.html Mark Seitz -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Tom Eisenhour Subject: Re: Aztek Airbrush Mike L wrote: >> I had a slight problem, though, when I went back the next day and the acrylic nozzle seemed a bit clogged. Any suggestions for cleaning the acrylic tip with something other than water would be appreciated, i.e., lacquer thinner, rubbing alcohol. << Mike, try soaking it in clear ammonia (the cheap kind that's sold at the supermarket), or a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and ammonia (i.e. Windex). Tom Eisenhour Cool and stormy in Austin, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Ron and Louise Crawford Subject: LCMM Ship Model Show The Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, located at Basin Harbor in Ferrisburgh, Vermont, is hosting a model boat show on 31 July and 1 August. The show is open to individual model exhibitors or clubs. Any aspect of ship modelling from any historic period, from waterline miniatures to museum-scale replicas and from fittings to finished models, is welcome. Bring what excites you. You'll meet some kindred souls. Lake Champlain Maritume Museum, for those unfamiliar with the facility, is dedicated to the preservation of the naval history of Lake Champlain. Champlain was a strategic battleground in the French and Indian (Seven Years) Wars, The Revolutionary War, and the War of 1812 and the birthplace of the US Navy. At the museum you can view exhibits of artifacts from each historic period, see how they are being recovered and preserved, enjoy many model exhibits and diaramas, and even board a full-sized replica of the 1776 gunboat "Philadelphia". For information please contact the museum at or (802) 475-2022. Ron Crawford -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume