Subject: SMML13/06/99VOL575 Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 00:22:08 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Acrylic cases 2: Re: H class destroyers ( Hermes) 3: Other models you build, etc 4: G, H, I class destroyers 5: Re: LCS (S) 6: USS Oriskany's news 7: Scale-model kit 8: Sundry subjects 9: Case building 10: Re: Model kits to donate (was Landing Craft) 11: Re: LST kit 12: Re: Building Your Own Display Cases 13: HMS Exeter 1941 14: HMS Sunflower -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: WTB: Dremel table saws 2: Hunley Kit - 1/32nd Scale 3: Okla Tornado victim final tally -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dave Judy Subject: Re: Acrylic cases Gents, I totally agree with Rusty's procedure for building cases...except the polishing part..I found "flame polishing" is easier and faster. Once the panels are cut, using a cheap butane "pencil" torch( these can be found at any hardware store and they use lighter butane), pass it along the edge till the edge turns clear! ....Done deal! Dave Judy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Dave Judy Subject: Re: H class destroyers ( Hermes) I have a book named "The German Navy 1939-1945" by Cajus Bekker, on page 113 is a port view. She appears to have a light gray & black splinter scheme. Dave Judy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: John Clements Subject: Other models you build, etc Just had my weekly dose of SMML (I work away from home during the week) and had a good laugh at the cats and wives, especially the latter as I am getting married next month. Actually neither my first wife, nor the next one (who has been my partner for the last ten years, so no surprises there, I hope) have objected to my modelling activities. As far as other types of modelling are concerned, I can admit to several, and over a long period of time. I can remember when I was about thirteen or so being in my local model shop when the Airfix Hood was delivered on its first release and ships have always been number one since then, but I am now building a model railway at weekends and have also been an active wargamer virtually since the hobby began in the UK with a large collection of 25mm eighteenth century figures. Planes featured when I was a kid, but probably simply because there were more of them that there were ships. The 'problem' - if that is the right word - for the older modeller now is the variety and quality of what is available in all these different modelmaking hobbies. Whole collections of ships and figures have disappeared, sold or scrapped, as better quality models are available, Another example is my almost complete set of the Japanese 1/700 waterline series, made when first issued, before etched brass and Skywave sets. What can I do with them now? They take up space and I wouldn't dream of showing them to anybody, after they have seen a few WEM kits. Sad but they will most likely end up in the bin. What is good about having several different modelling hobbies is that techniques developed in one area can be used in another, so I could use a soldering iron before etched brass came along, and if you spend your evenings on 1/700 ships, putting extra scale detail and working bits and pieces on a 12 inch long railway locomotive is hardly a problem. Finally, just to say that the recent contributions on display cases came at the very moment I was wondering about making some myself, so thanks to all those who sent in their techniques; very useful. John Clements -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: G, H, I class destroyers The flotilla leaders were actually slightly larger, heavier and faster than the rest of their class and also carried 5 x 4.7 (Grenville, Hardy and Inglefield) as opposed to 4. Hereward was completed with an experimental twin 4.7 in B position which was removed in 1937 (for testing prior to the Tribals, J, K, and N's). This was also why Glowworm carried quintuple torpedo tubes. The other classes had quintuples were, the I, J, K, N, new D, Battles and Weapons. The new G class would also have carried them if they had been built. J C Taylor (German Warships of World War II) has a photo of Hermes without camouflage but with most details quite visible. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: LCS (S) Get a copy of Allied Landing Craft of WWII, published by the US Naval Institute Press. There are a couple small drawings and photos of the LCS(S)-1 plus several photos of the LCS(S)-2. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Michael C. Smith" Subject: USS Oriskany's news Yes, there is news and pictures on the web. I don't have the address but there is an Oriskany page (it is on the aircraft carriers web ring - start at: http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/5325/ and go to the carriers web ring and it's there - they have photos of the towing and notes that it will end up in Beaumont, Texas for scrapping.) Hope this helps -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: corlasvan@webtv.net (Cornelis L. Van Hoboken) Subject: Scale-model kit I'm looking for a scale-model kit, Metal, Plastic or Resin, any scale, of a (British) Royal Navy WW2 vintage T-Class submarine. Please advise if you have, or can find, such a kit, and the price. Thank you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Arjun Sarup" Subject: Sundry subjects Hi, This isn't about ships, but here goes: A while ago, there were a bunch of photography tips on SMML. I live on a tropical island, and I have this problem of fungus growing on the lens, I suppose from moisture. Any suggestions on solving this problem would be greatly appreciated. Also, to all the armour guys, I have a picture of what I think is a BTR of the Indian Army. I don't know much about armour camouflage, but the patterns on this BTR don't look too easy, so if anybody is interested, I'd be happy to email the picture. Best wishes, Arjun Sarup Mauritius -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Lamar Jones Subject: Case building Glass is a whole lot cheaper and it avoids particle attraction, unlike plexiglass. I set my table saw's plywood blade to the depth needed for the glass to sit into the base, flip the base over and run it all the way through the table saw for the four cuts. Sure, there's a bit of cut that it outside of the corners, but put a piece of contrasting wood in that for effect. Go to the glass shop and have the glass cut, square it with tape, or whatever, and very carefully put clear silicone caulking along the joint, not between the adjoining sides, but in the joint they form. You can put masking tape an 1/8th of an inch or so on each side of the join, so the caulk won't get out of bounds. Voila! a very, very strong case, and one that is while a bit heavier than the plastic ones, stays clean and looks very good. Too, it's cheap to build!!!! Lamar Jones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: kenny_II Subject: Re: Model kits to donate (was Landing Craft) have a 1/350 Tamiya Missouri done in something resembling Measure 22/32. I've been at ship building about a year now, so it looks OK for not having a photo etch kit. If you want it, get me a shipping address and I'll send it off (I'll hopefully need the room in the near future when the Enterprise kit is done). Tim Maleck -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: LST kit >> ,,I'M LOOKING FOR OF LANDING CRAFTS AND LST'S DO YOU KNOW OF ANY? I'M ORINGAL CREW MEMBER OF THE USS SALEM HERE IN MASS, AND I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE THE MODEL FOR THE SHIP'S DISPLAY ROOM. << Combat Models makes a 1/72 scale vac-form LST kit, but beware, it's a VERY basic kit. I was sent one for review for the IPMS Journal. While all the basic shapes are accurate as far as I could tell it will need a lot of detailing. However since it's 1/72 scale (about 18") it should be easy to make into a pretty decent model. The instructions are simple blueprints drawn (I assume) by the master builder. As I recall it retailed for about $42.00 + or -. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Darren Scannell Subject: Re: Building Your Own Display Cases There have been several good responses to this one, but I thought I'd add some more. After a little trial and error and helpful tips from professionals this is what I do: Router the edge of my base so that it has a lip. Measure the lip and phone in an order to my local Plastic wholesaler for 3mm (1/8") clear acrylic (Plexiglass, Lexan, Perspex, whatever flavour you wish). They cut pieces from leftovers - very cheap and nice square cuts to your dimensions. To cut sheet acrylic on a table saw, I have been told to either reverse the saw blade or use a dull one. Apparently prevents chipping and melting. I haven't tried this because it's easier to have it cut at the wholesaler. Cheap to, My last case for a 1/350 Titanic was only $10 for the acrylic all pre-cut (3 feet by 8" by 1 foot). The next day, I pick up the order and prep the edges for glueing. I have purchased a couple of inexpensive tools for working with acrylic, an edge scraper for cleaning up the saw marks on the edges and makeing them smooth (it is just drawn along the edge like a scraper) and a scriber (for scoring if I wish to cut any acrylic pieces at home). Sometimes I'll want to cut pieces for something and I score a line in the sheet and it will snap in 2 just like glass cutters do. For 1/4" thick and bigger it gets a little hard to do this method and a saw would be better. After the edges are scraped, I trim back the plastic film about 1" to get it out of the way of the solvent and place the top on the bench. I take one side and set it on the top at the edge and hold it. I always design the case so that the top sits on the sides to prevent added stress on the joint. I then place an end piece at one end and hold it at the corner with the side piece. I don't use a square, because if the pieces are cut square, it is redundant with the three pieces propped up, this also ensures proper alignment. Any items on the bench can be used to hold the sheets in place, I usually prop them against spray cans and hold them firmly when glueing. I use a brush to apply the solvent, I found the solvent would always drip out of the syringe and fall on the acrylic, marring the surface, or too much would come out, a brush offers more control. I buy the solvent at the plastic wholesaler also, much cheaper than at the hobby store. A liter of Methylene chloride is the same cost as a small bottle at the hobby store (same stuff used for styrene). After these two pieces are secure (a few minutes), I do the other end and then the last side. I let it sit for 24hrs and remove the rest of the plastic film. Now comes the fun part, I purchased a Weller Pyropen for about $100 a few years back. It is a neat little handheld butane torch that comes with a soldering tip(great for silver soldering or in locations without an outlet), a heat gun tip, or it can be used without a tip so a 1/2" flame shoots out (I use this thing a lot). I take the flame and slowly draw it along the exposed edges of acrylic on the case. This is called flame polishing and is really quite easy after you get the hang of it. If you go too fast you don't make the edge clear, if you go too slow the acrylic bubbles. You quickly learn the right speed after a few practice runs. This step must be done after at least 24hrs of the solvent being applied or the acrylic will stress crack or the glue will bubble. I have achieved some really nice results with this method. I found the polishing wheel very messy. After all the above, I just place the cover on the case where it sits at the edge of the lip. It can be secured if desired, but I have never done so. As for cleaning acrylic, there should be no scratches as long as you use a damp cloth, same principle as with glasses. A little Novus polish helps with the static as well. Hope the above helps someone. Regards; Darren Scannell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: HMS Exeter 1941 Folks: Would anyone out there know of where I can find a set of plans, or at least some detailed line drawings (plan and profile views if possible) of HMS Exeter as she appeared after her 1940-41 refit? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks! Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Peter Sketchley" Subject: HMS Sunflower Hi, I am currently looking for info on the RN Flower Class Corvette HMS Sunflower. All I know is her general arrangement and that she was completed at Smiths's Dock Co on 19 August 1940. Does anyone know where I can find info on her service career and fate. Best Regards Peter Sketchley (Also awaiting summer) Cambridge UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: PERATHJEN@aol.com Subject: WTB: Dremel table saws I noticed a couple of mentions in yesterday's post about Dremel table saws. I have one, but would very much like to buy another. If anyone has one they would like to sell, please let me know. And to Chris, Go Big Red!!! (from an old Cornhusker) Paul Rathjen, Beaverton OR -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "John P. Harloe" Subject: Hunley Kit - 1/32nd Scale I just read a mini review of the upcoming TNT movie on the Hunley. While I saw it being filmed in front of my house in Charleston and have seen the models used by Turner, someone seeing the movie before me is not fair! Hope it is a good one. Much of what was writen by the previous gentleman is factually correct. We offer the best two books (by Mark Ragan ) and a video tape on Civil War submarines and especially the Hunley. I would like to remind the SMML listers that we have been selling a 1/32nd kit of the Hunley (and the David & Keokuk) for several years. Our model is based on historical fact as interviewed by us of the divers of the wreck site. Many listers may remember or saw a 7 minute video on our web site of the actual submarine at the wreck site, 4 miles offshore Charleston. The subject of where the torpedo was at the time of the attack is hotly debated in Charleston. While Conrad Wise Chapman's painting done in November 1863 shows the torpedo on the spar, no evidence was found by the National Park Service of that fact. They did not investigate to determine how it was carried. I would also add they believe the aft cutwater did not exist even though it is in Chapman's painting. We do offer a pre built version that carries the torpedo on the keel like the previous author noted. There is a pencil sketch of the submarine done later by Chapman that "looks" like the torpedo was mounted on the middle of the sub. So we argue but will not know for sure until the Hunley is brought home to Charleston. I also want to remind the list that we are about to produce the two Confederate guards who are in the painting. For those who would like to see our kit and close ups of the interior go to http://www.cottage-industries.com. look under pre-built models to see a different version of where the torpedo was mounted. John Harloe Charleston Distributors -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Okla Tornado victim final tally We held our final auction at the club meeting today to sell off the last of all the kits donated. After all was said and done we ended up with over $1500.00 in cash, checks, donated kits and raffle money to give to Butch and his family. We also have Butch fixed up to replenish his model room. Hobby shops in the area donated a Pasche H airbrush and a very nice air compressor to get Butch back in their stores and spending money again (Butch builds about two model a month!). One of his friends donated a $150.00 gift certificate to Phoenix Hobbies and there was another $100.00 certificate from a company who wishes to remain anonymous. To say the least, Butch was beside himself. He had no idea any of this was going on. Lots of hand shakes and hugs went around to us and I want to extend them to all who helped out with money, good wishes, gift certificates and prayers. Butch is recovering nicely thank you. He passed around photos of his (what used to be) home. He's currently living with his daughter while his new home is being built. He was insured (fortunately) and will be closing on a brand new home in July with a bigger and better model room than before. To say the least, Butch is one happy camper now. I want to pass on to all of you my sincere and heartfelt thanks to the group on this list and off this list. There is no doubt in my mind that modelers are the best people anywhere and we are never alone as long we have good people like you as friends. Thank you once again and everyone pat yourself on the back for me. Your friend, Rusty White President IPMS Metro Oklahoma City -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume