Subject: SMML30/07/99VOL622 Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 00:48:45 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Subject: Teak 2: Re: Teak decks 3: Illustrious, Bismarck and Enterprise 4: ASKOLD review 5: Gneisenau Turret Colors 6: PRO refs 7: Re: Heller 1/400 BM 8: Heller Bismarck 9: Re: Insect class 10: Kriegsmarine teak deck color 11: teak decks on Sheffield 12: IPMS/USA Nationals 13: Re: RN Set 2/Teak/Nationals 14: Re: Sea Tiger Pink 15: People's Liberation Navy 16: Good bye Drum?? 17: Re: Judging 18: HMS Warspite 1941 Camo... Again! 19: Ballast 20: Re: Ballast 21: Re: Seaman Hornsby 22: USCGC Taney decals 23: my first model 24: Gepard Class 25: Sound Head (Sonar Dome) on late Fletcher Class DDs 26: First Model 27: Lorna and first model 28: Re: First Ship Model 29: IJN battleship "kongo" 30: Re: IPMS/US Nats Judging 31: Your first model,mistress Lorna ask 32: Japanese Subs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: Maritime Modeling Magazine 2: ICM 1/350 Hood 3: Commission? 4: Warship Annual for trade -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Alan Lindstrom" Subject: Teak I don't have any experience with teak, but I know that my redwood deck and cedar fence were both quite grey within a year, and are both quite dark when wet. Presumably the wet decks of a ship at sea would not appear as "bleached teak", or any other light wood color. I have seen a comment before on SMML that wet teak is a dark chocolate color. Alan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "J. London" Subject: Re: Teak decks. I must agree with Mike Cooper that the HUMBROL Bleached Teak is too creamy (it needs a spot of gray to modify). No one has mentioned TAMIYA XF-55 Deck Tan which has a more sombre hue. A fan as I am of HUMBROL products this is probably the only acrylic paint I use and is particularly effective on miniature (1:1200) models. Mike London -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" Subject: Illustrious, Bismarck and Enterprise John, Thanks for the response on my Illustrious question. The aircraft in the kit are the Martlet and Swordfish, so I suppose that would make it during the Indian Ocean time period. But I'm also interested (if it's not asking too much) in the Taranto configuration. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Ken, I'm no Bismarck expert either (but there are several on the list I'm sure you'll hear from). I do know, however, that they pushed the Arados overboard sometime before the final action. That may be one less problem anyway. Also, I'm pretty sure the decks were unpainted wood (but I'm sure you'll hear about the swastika controversy, i.e. whether they were painted over). Michael, I have the BWN Enterprise kit and to do it right I got the Floating Drydock plans and reduced them down to 1/350 (with their permission!) so I could make platforms and so forth. I may, therefore, be willing to part with the originals. I could also photocopy the BWN instruction sheet, if you think it would help. Contact me off line if you're still interested. Whew! Michael Satin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Pletscher-Lenz-Schneider" Subject: ASKOLD review Caroline pointed out that there was a review of the 1/700 ASKOLD kit(s ?) in NAVIS. Is anybody out there who subscribed to NAVIS and is willing to send me a copy of this review? Thanks Falk Pletscher -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: Gneisenau Turret Colors In response to the recent KM turret color question, the roof of Gneisenau's main turrets Anton Bruo and Ceasar were painted yellow on 16 February 1940. This is documented on p. 63 of Wolfgang Kaehler's Book "Schlachtschiff Gneisenau", the official history of the ship. I believe Kaehler was an engineering officer on board. There is no mention of the secondary turrets painted in the air recognition colors and I believe it was simply not the practice to paint them. I point out that, fas ar as I know, the blue turret color for operation Cerebus is pure speculation. Until somebody does the legwork and consults the official records and logbooks etc., it will remain speculation and no amount of "photographic interpretation" of black and white photos will change that. Dave Krakow -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Cooper, Mike" Subject: PRO refs Dear Smmlies People are clearly starting to get their hands on primary sources for RN colours. Can I ask that if you do get anything from official records you quote the document reference as fully as possible. This will do two things 1. Establish your credentials 2, Enables people to follow in your tracks and share the knowledge. An old and bad fault of modelling publications (and authors) has been a failure to do this. Part of this has been a lack of need - or rather percieved need, but people havae also wanted to protect their sources. Sorry, but thats hogwash! By the way, does anyone have a list of the relavant UK PRO files. I keep saying I'll go up to Kew (about 2 hrs door to door by snail - sorry - rail) and this would give me an excuse Mike Cooper (Reading, UK. A great start has turned into a hot evening - weather wise, that is. I'm still in the Ref. Library...mutter, mutter...) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "foeth" Subject: Re: Heller 1/400 BM 1) Beam should be 3600/400=9cm / 3.543" wide, use calliper for easy measurement 2) - 3) http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/4273/maquetasi3.html very accurate. Note: two level in front of armoured conning tower covered, steel (grey) decks beneath them 4) don't know, but you don't neccesarily have to use them. 5) No such thing, though Helfrath and Herzog comes close for modeling. Post the rest here, easiest way out. 6) By the description of GMM's product on their homepage, it seems to be a miniature version of the 1/350 version, which is very good, save a few errors (The warship page has my review on the set at the moment, though it hasn't been placed yet). It does state : NOTE: Cable reels, watertight doors, and bulkhead details included in the 1/350 version only.) And the latter make the set so great, so that's too bad. The Fumo's are a bit crude, but the railing is suberb, as usual from GMM, with some nice extra dtails as well. Not too many details though, if the doors, reels and bulkhead details are out. Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Roger Torgeson Subject: Heller Bismarck Ken, Try and find the book "The Battleship Bismarck by Elfruth/Herzog, published by Schiffer Publishing. (sorry I don't have the ISBN Number at work) it's a English translation of a German publication. The book has a lot of close up detail photos that will give you hours of scratch building. Another book that I found to be a great help when I built my Tamiya kit was from the Marine Arsenal Series (in German) #15 Bismarck. The big advantage of this book are the two 1/100 scale models, lots of full page close ups showing more details. As for the GMM set, I used it for my Heller Scharnhorst, It's a must item, and will bring a lot of life to a rather plain kit. Good luck Roger Torgeson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: graham walker Subject: Re: Insect class Hi chris, I have some plans can not remember how good they are, in about 1/96 scale came from a model boat magazine, if they are any good for you i will photo copy them for you. best wishes graham@the cruiser sig Where it a nice 27c and my day off, bad point 13hour shift tommorrow in unventilated kitchens (hospital) and forecast is for 30c, phewwwwwwwwwww -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Tirpitz70@webtv.net (Rich Hahn) Subject: Kriegsmarine teak deck color Hello! With the current discussion of teak color mixes, I thought I'd ask a question also. What would be the best Humbrol colors to match the Kriegsmarine wooden decks? I am working on a couple Heller 1/400 projects, as well as some GHQ 1/2400 subjects. Thanks very much. Rich Hahn Bensalem, PA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Lamar Jones Subject: teak decks on Sheffield Thanks to all for responses about the Humbrol paint, etc. My experience on boats using teak is that it does weather gray, but finding the right mix of that is a problem. Maybe the pale stone Humbrol is close, if altered a bit. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: TechnoInfidel@webtv.net (John Collins) Subject: IPMS/USA Nationals Greetings all: This is my first entry into this august log. I've been a subscriber for a few months, but this is the first time I've had anything useful to contribute. I attended the USA Nationals in Orlando last week. It was my first and I had an absolutely fabulous time. I was able to bring my family, stayed a nearby resort, saw the Shuttle launch (it was epic even 50 miles away) and spend money freely at the convention. What could be better? Actually, it got better. I had the opportunity to meet and hang out with other ship modelers, many whose names have appeared on this list. Steve Wiper, Mike Czibovic, John Snyder, David D'Angelo, Duane Fowler, Ray Bean, Joe D'Amato, James Corley, Jon Warneke, Ed Gruene. Mike Quan and Hugh Letterly. So, there were 13 SMMLers there by my count. Thanks guys, I had a great time hanging around with you. We did have the SMML lunch. Czibovic, Snyder, D'Angelo, Fowler, Gruene, Quan, Letterly and myself in attendance. The rest had vending duty. A pleasant lunch where we waxed poetic over the Hood and other such ships, told old war/modeling stories and discussed anatomy. The contest itself was the third largest on record with over 1950 models. Many were awesome. Most noteably were Mike Sharp's USS Tarawa (won small scale battleship/carrier category, Best Ship and Most Popular) and Bob Davis' A-20 (won 1/48 multi-engined prop and Best Aircraft.) They were the class of the show. SMML guys haven't been tooting their horns about their accomplishments at the show, so I'll brag for them. Of the seven awards in the two small scale classes, four were taken by SMML guys. Rusty White took second in cruisers/destroyers with his FRAMed Gearing (?), Ed Gruene took third with his Fletcher class DD, I took an honorable mention for my RN Orsa, and I also took second in battleship/carriers with my HMS Repulse. All-in-all, a pretty respectable showing. Congratulations, guys. I can't say I remember the name of the winner in cruiser/destroyers, but he entered a small Imperial Russian cruiser that was very nice. The SMML Fletcher DD subcontest was not as well represented as we might have liked, but, what should we expect? We did have five ships show. (Ed Gruene's won my vote.) We really didn't even begin talking about this until March or April. All I had time to do with it was take it out of the box to caress it. Those of us at lunch suggested Spruance hulled ships (Spruance and Kidd DDs and Tico class cruisers) as the SMML project for the 2000 show in Dallas. Vending wasn't considered by many to be only good. The most common complaint was that the new plastic wasn't there. For ship modelers it was sweet. Classic Warships, Corsair Armada, Snyder & Short, Loose Cannon, Nautilus, and new manufacturer, JAG were there. I was well armed with money. I was most impressed with the JAG stuff. Interesting subjects, well cast, most with good instructions (not the PTs though) and fotoetch. Well, I've more than made up for my silence of the last few months. Thanks John Collins North of Atlanta, GA, where its hot but, thankfully, not as humid as Orlando. Congrats on your placing John. Also congrats to Rusty & Ed as well. Lorna & Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: RN Set 2/Teak/Nationals So glad to hear from Miz Caroline that the RN Set 1 is well-received over there in the homeland. I assume she read far enough down to see the answer to her question about the schedule (should be spelled "shedule" for the proper UK pronunciation). ;^) Mike Cooper's comment about weathered teak is correct. It shifts off into a warm grey color. Bleached teak would only be proper for well-holystoned decks in peacetime. For Bill Code: There were, if I recall correctly, nine or ten sailing ships entered at the IPMS(USA) nationals, at least one of which was depicted underway in water (i.e., in waterline configuration). John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Sea Tiger Pink A+ for the research effort, but since it's a postwar color (when was the movie made?), it's not included in the S&S USN sets. ;^) That said, however, there was historical precedent. SEA DRAGON was the infamous "red" submarine mentioned by Tokyo Rose in many of her broadcasts. She had been tied up alongside SEALION at Cavite when the Japanese attack bombed and sank the latter. SEA DRAGON took a good bit of topside shrapnel damage. In the hurried repairs that followed, the tender CANOPUS applied a hasty and very poor black paint job that washed and weather off almost as soon as SEA DRAGON deployed on patrol. SEA DRAGON thus operated largely wearing her red lead primer as a finish coat. Source: Ruhe, William J., CAPT, USN (Ret). _War in the Boats_. Washington: Brassey's, Inc., 1994. This is an autobiographical work and a sequel to Ruhe's earlier, _Slow Dance To Pearl Harbor_. Both are fine and recommended reading. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Kerry L. Jang" Subject: People's Liberation Navy I have been lucky enough to track down a number of 1:260 modern Chinese destroyer and frigate kits by Zengdefu, and others in 1:200 by Trumpeter from China. The Zhengdefu 1:260 kits are quite good -- much like the Nichimo 1:200 IJN and JMSDF kits in detailing. The Trumpeter kits ae larger and a lot more basic -- but the shapes "look right". I found all these kits at a toy shop (that sells "Hello Kitty" junk) in Vancouver's Chinatown. Today I got the Qingdao (Tsing-tao). I was wondering what photoetch detail sets or accessories there are out there that would be useful for these models. Oh yes, Trumpeter Co. has pirated all the Tamiya 1:350 scale warship kits too. I found all except the USS Enterprise. Thanks for any help. Regards, Kerry -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: MDDoremus@aol.com Subject: Good bye Drum?? Thanks to Tom, Tom, James and Rick! I made the original mistake, I thought Tiger was in the name. Since I was already talking about Lionfish, I just went on with Tigerfish. Given my memory, I'm pleased I got the name half right. Looks like we've got most of the R*******H out of the way. I will need to check out a copy of the movie and compare superstructures. It seems agreed it is a Balo, but there is some disagreement about which one; Balo a PNY boat or Queenfish also a PNY boat. (I'm still hosed on the anchor.) As for the colors, are there good matches for red lead or white lead out there? For the crew and passengers, I guess I could use some N gauge model RR figures. They might be a bit tall (1/160 vs. 1/178) but it would help the story along. Anybody aware of a set or two of N gauge military figures? Smoke and engine noise could actually be done, if I was starting from a hollow hull. A little RR smoke and a handy personal memo chip would do the trick. But would it be modeling? As to the events in the movie, I have no doubt that they happened. Just not to the same boat on one cruise. I think Clay Blair has a reference to a pink sub in "Silent Service". And given the problems with torpedoes in '42 and '43, guiding clear under a target and hitting a shore based obstacle would not surprise me in the least. Was it at least an enemy held building? Did the sub get credit for the tonnage? I think I will eventually finish the boat I've started as an E Boat, probably the Gato. With James' early war conversion set. It's only taken 10 years to get this far. But I've got the R*******H almost done on the Sea Tiger for my next big project. Mark Doremus Tropical Eden Prairie, MN (temp of 97 F (38 C?) today) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: Re: Judging Hi Everyone, >> Another model, in a category I didn't judge, caught my eye with its paint scheme (no surprise there). Again, a model that otherwise might have been a prizewinner was marred by lack of attention to detail, in this case the correct colors used in USN Measure 12 modified, and the method of application. MS12 mod used Sea Blue 5-S (or sometimes Navy Blue 5-N) and Ocean Gray 5-O on the hull, with Ocean Gray 5-O and Haze Gray 5-H on the superstructure, in a hard-edged pattern. This particular model had the hull correctly painted, but then carried the hull colors up onto the superstructure, where they were applied with soft airbrushed edges. The builder had obviously done enough research to correctly identify the camouflage measure and pattern--and other details as well--but somehow missed some of the basics on colors and applications; in this case it was critical. << Well, I did judge this catagory, and I guess I need to correct a couple of minor things here. This kit did win third place in it's catagory, so it wasn't a complete loser, but John is right that there were some problems. Most of them involved Rusty's statements on basics, i.e. glue marks, assembly problems, poor deliniation of colors (where decks meet bulkheads), and misalignment of parts. One of the biggest things that was noticed was the variations of the lengths of the front nosegear of the B-25's. However, these are some of the problems that a builder will experience with building such a complex and detailed kit as this kit is. Building a resin kit for competition such as what my company puts out, as well as the others on the market, require far more attention to detail than many other subjects simple because you are really dealing with a entire weapons system rather than a single subject. But, one thing we didn't evaluate was the colors used on the kit. There's no way for any judge to properly determine if the shade of hue is correct, since there are so many factors that can determine what they'll look like. One of the major ones is the lighting in the room, and this rooms lighting, while adequate, was also affected by the reflective surfaces in the room (white ceilings projected down onto a base red room). Not that this is detremental, but at the same time isn't the same as natural light (or the fact that it became a new day while we judged). Overall, color isn't a good determinant for judging, as a basic, but how it's applied is. Jon Warneke I am Elmer J. Fudd, millionaire. I own a mansion and a yacht! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: HMS Warspite 1941 Camo... Again! Dear fellow SMMLies: I've found another May 1941 (pre-Bremerton makeover) photo of Warspite in her light gray/medium gray camo scheme. In Nazi Victory: Crete 1941 by David Thomas (NY:Stein and Day, 1972), between pages 80-81, there is a somewhat grainy photo of Warspite, dated May 22, 1941, in which she can be seen dodging bombs during an air attack. The camouflage pattern is somewhat indistinct, but if you cover your eyes with your hands, then squint and peer through the narrow gap between your index and middle fingers, and bear down hard like you're giving birth, it's possible to discern the faint demarcation between the light and medium gray panels, and that the pattern corresponds to the pattern that Warspite wore in 42-43 or so after her repairs at Bremerton. As for the question about the color of her wooden decks... in one of the photos of Warspite dating from before her 1941-42 refit in the V.E. Tarrant book on the Warspite which I cited earlier this week, the decks appear to be a light natural wood color (to the degree that you can determine these things from B&W photos). However, after her repair/refit at Bremerton, the wooden decks appear to be a much darker color. Could it be that they were scrubbed and holystoned (or whatever it is they do to ships' decks -- perhaps an application of lemon pledge?), thereby bringing out "the wood's natural lustrous beauty," or could it be that the deck was painted over.? Anyone have any insights on this matter? Inquiring minds want to know. Well, enough cliches for a day; have a nice weekend y'all! Yours truly, Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Bill & Kaja Michaels" Subject: Ballast I usually use lead shot, mixed with epoxy to form a paste. In an RC model, the lower in the hull you get the ballast, the better off you are. Also, moveable ballast in an RC model is bad. You don't want the model rolling in another boat's wake, and the ballast shifting so the model has a (potentially devastating) list. Note I said "moveable" ballast is not bad, not "removable". Removable ballast is fine, so long as it can't move around once installed. I use empty 35mm film canisters filled with lead shot to trim a model out. Once I'm sure of where I want the ballast to go, I then glue it in using epoxy. If your epoxy didn't cure, you either didn't add enough hardener, mixed it poorly, or used really old glue. I use 30 minute epoxy, and mix it on the side. Once it is properly mixed, I then stir in the lead shot, then transfer the paste to where I want it in the model. Hope this helps.... Bill -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Mike.Dunn@dresdner-bank.com Subject: Re: Ballast Bill wrote :- >> If your epoxy didn't cure, you either didn't add enough hardener, mixed it poorly, or used really old glue. I use 30 minute epoxy, and mix it on the side. Once it is properly mixed, I then stir in the lead shot, then transfer the paste to where I want it in the model. << I'll give it another try with, & if it fails again, with some new epoxy as well. Cheers, Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "Richard - Charlotte Marelius" Subject: Re: Seaman Hornsby >> Thanks for the compliment Rick but you only get 'brownie points' if you can describe Seaman Hornsby and his ailment correctly. Merit badges are awarded for being able to accurately reproduce the smoke from engine No 1 << Lorna, Seaman Hornsby was the guest of honor for the New Year's dinner, and beyond suffering from swine flu, also tended to get drunk on torpedo juice. I guess I'll have to pass on the merit badge since I can't produce the No 1 engine smoke (I gave up smoking diesel years ago), though I can reproduce the sounds fairly reliably after a garlic loin of Hornsby dinner. Cheers, Rick Marelius Congratulations the brownie points are yours! And for your efforts you may have Lt. Holden's neck massager (definitely non regulation) :-) Mistress Lorna -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: "Bill & Kaja Michaels" Subject: USCGC Taney decals Remember that if you do the post-1967 version, with the stripe, you won't need the "W" on the hull. Coast Guard cutters in the pre-stripe days carried the W as part of the hull number-- i.e. "W 37". Also, the oldest cutter in the fleet carries gold hull numbers. I know that Taney had that distinction for a short time before her decommisioning in the mid '80s. Bill -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "Doug MacAhonic" Subject: my first model Jeez do I ever feel like a young pup in here, my first model was Revell's Titanic, not an overly interesting model that I got for Xmas in 1980 (I was 10 years old). After I sank her a few times in the pool, I decided to try something more interesting, so I purchased Hasegawa's Kaga and have been hooked on 1/700 waterline ever since. I have the majority of capital ships in 1/700 and am tempted to start some resin kits but alas, I have a girlfriend (and I was never told how costly dating was, LOL.) I try to vary my models as I am interested in ships, aircraft and armour, so logically, I do them in that order, keeps my interests picqued. Thanks to everybody on this list, you sure have helped me refine my modeling skills and my fleet looks awesome. Thanks again. Douglas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Ian MacCorquodale" Subject: Gepard Class Hi All, Does anyone have a lead on where to obtain the new Revell Germany Gepard Class Fast Attack Craft? I am specifically looking for the kit with the RAM launcher aft. Any assistance would be appreciated. Ian P.S. My first kit was Airfix's County Class DD http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/9089/ Online Photo Gallery -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Alan Simon Subject: Sound Head (Sonar Dome) on late Fletcher Class DDs Someone out there, please help (posted same question over a month ago with no response). What is size/shape of sound head beneath hull, forward of Mount 51? Cutaway drawing in Roscoe's Destroyer Operations of WWII shows suspended teardrop, large end forward. Walkowiak's outboard profile of USS Kidd DD661 shows what appears to be large protruding cylinder. Alan Simon Atlanta, Ga. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Les Dorr Jr." Subject: First Model Well, why not jump in? I think my first ship was either the old Aurora Saratoga (CVA-60) -- I painted the Cutlasses in Blue Angels colors! -- or the Renwal USS North Carolina. I remember showing both of them proudly to my mother...who really didn't give a $#@%.... (:-} "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups." -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: "Linda & David Orzel" Subject: Lorna and first model Lorna, My first ship model and second where circumstance as to which I opened first that Christmas. First opened was Airfix 1/600 Hood, second opened but first put together was Airfix 1/600 Bismarck, which is the one I asked for after reading the book, The Sinking of the Bismarck. I believe that they were both $1.39. After that, I bought several Pyro 1/1200 ships, the first with my own money. My allowance at that time was $.50 and they were $.49, so I got the whole first two series over that summer. My collection still is exclusively in those two scales. (1/1250 now) David Orzel -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Alan Simon (by way of Greg Lee) Subject: Re: First Ship Model Vaguely remember starting, but not finishing, plastic USS Constitution and building an occasional Revell "flat bottomed boat," all as a kid. Was an airplane person back then. First "official" ship kit was Skywave 1/700 KM Z37 Destroyer, built in my late 30's in 1983. Over next 12 years constructed over forty 1/700 and 1/720 warships, mostly from WWII. Was traveling sales engineer. Could easily carry along kits/materials. Motel rooms were workshops. Modeling was therapeutic diversion from power plant and paper mill construction. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: "VIDEOPAL S.L." Subject: IJN battleship "Kongo" Hello Thanks for the answers to my questions about the "Kongo" Greetings Francisco Ronco Cádiz,España -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: IPMS/US Nats Judging Dear Rusty: I attended the nationals and had 4 ship models there. They were in glued plastic cases and were the Pringle, John Rodgers, Gettysburg,and Callaghan. What was good or bad about them as far as the nationals went? Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: "VIDEOPAL S.L." Subject: Your first model,mistress Lorna ask Hello My first model was the Hasegawa's 1/700th cruiser "Nachi" in the year 1974.I was twelve years old. Since then I have building 1/35 scale tanks and actually Historex's figures. But finally I came back to the ships in this last spring. Greetings Francisco Ronco Cádiz,España -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: "Susan Grouell" Subject: Japanese Subs I have started, without reference material, the Skywave kit of the 1-1 3 1-1 4 jap subs.......what is the proper color, and did they leave the wood decks un-painted as listed on the back of the box...????? Thank you for including me on the lists. Sincerely, Gary Grouell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Vimieraa@aol.com Subject: Re: Maritime Modeling Magazine Plans for CV6. Call me. Mr Baca of Maritime Modeling Magazine, the first issue of which is due to be published in December of this year, Is looking for high quality material suitable for publication. He especially wants something (text and photos) on the recent IPMS National. HE PAYS. Victor Baca (editor) Maritime Modeling Magazine 5852 Salish Rd Birch-Bay WA 98230 1-360-371-0290 E-Mail VBACA@GTE.NET -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: ICM 1/350 Hood Hi Everyone, I spoke with the representative of ICM at the Nationals, and I think there's a lot of good news coming out of the Ukraine. The two German battleships are on schedule, and should be released of the announced date (I think it September of 1999). Also, their Hood kit is now in the process of having the molds cut, and they didn't expect any delays in getting the kit to market by January 2000. This kit was designed from the plans provided in the Anatomy book. The price they're estimating is about US$70. Jon Warneke Commander Series Models, Inc. I am Elmer J. Fudd, millionaire. I own a mansion and a yacht! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: John Snyder Subject: Commission? I have received an e-mail from a man in Austin, Texas looking for someone to build a Liberty ship model for him. He didn't specify scale. If anyone on the list is interested, contact me off-list and I will pass along his name and e-mail address so that you can contact him directly. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Caiella@aol.com Subject: Warship Annual for trade All: I recently purchased some Warship annuals and mistakenly bought one that is already in my collection. I have Warship 96 as a duplicate and would like to swap it for another volume in like condition. I have Warship 1 through X, 96 and 97/98, so any of the other volumes would be fine. The Warship 96 I have is in fine condition, virtually new. Anybody have a copy they want to swap? Jim Caiella -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume