Subject: SMML05/08/99VOL628 Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 00:19:53 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Missouri broadside 2: IPMS(USA) violation of the Constitution 3: IPMS(USA) Bid selection 4: Australian IPMS 5: Skywave Ukuru Escort 6: Re: 1/96th Scale Secretary Class Cutter 7: Re: MS12 mod cammo on USS Vincennes CA-44 8: Rules for judging 9: Good bye Mistress Lorna 10: HMS Iron Duke 11: HMS Warspite 12: Life Raft Prepping 13: WW ONE ROYAL NAVY COLOURS 14: Judging 15: Tiny a/c decals 16: IJN Tone questions. 17: Off topic, but scale 18: Mogami Turret tops 19: Re: HMS Iron Duke blast bags and other gasbagging 20: Re: IPMS/US 21: HMCS CHAUDIERE 22: Re: 16" Broadside 23: Orange Peel Finish and Dremel Moto-Tool Meltdown 24: Enterprise and F4Us 25: Re: Malta Submarine 26: British lifeboat -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: New York Model Festival 2: Heller and Nichimo Ships -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Humber, Thom" Subject: Missouri broadside James, You are correct. In fact the "firing offset" was engineered into the design of the gun. When firing a broadside the 16" guns will stagger fire within seconds of each other because the stress on the ship will be much too great. Cameras can capture this stagger effect, but the eye cannot. Sumrall's Iowa Class Battleships and Friedman's US Battleships goes into more detail on the design and firing of the 16/50 guns, and even includes several photos of this effect. Incidentally, the expertise to engineer and build these big guns has deteriorated in the last 50 years to the point that ship builders and machinists would have to relearn how to build these big monsters all over again. But since the US Navy has decided that missiles and 5" guns are good enough for fire support it's kind of a moot point. Thom Humber -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: IPMS(USA) violation of the Constitution >> If it's true that the Selection Committee at Orlando selected Seattle as the site for the 2001 US Nationals, how can the E-Board override this selection? If they can, why have a selection committee at all. << This is why we as a club (IPMS Metro Okla. City) decided not to participate in the National bid. As I stated yesterday, the group felt they would be condoning violation of the IPMS Constitution by agreeing to participate, so we decided to take stand and politely bow out. The point I'm trying to make (which also was considered by metro) if IPMS violated the Constitution once then why not again and again? By standing for this none of the existing rules and by laws apply. We felt we would be left open to any number of future violations by the E. Board. Rusty White IPMS Head ship judge -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: IPMS(USA) Bid selection >> To my knowledge, no bid is "pre-approved" prior to the bid presentation, so I think you are off base saying that Seattle was "pre-approved." My understanding is that the E-Board does much more that merely "rebber stamp" some other committees decision. However, Rusty, being involved with the 2000 bid process certainly has a more detailed understanding of the process than I care to have. :-) << Bruce, You are correct that NO bid (unless it's the only bid) is pre-approved by the E. Board. Before the boondoggle in Santa Clara, the bid were presented and the E. Board would ask any questions they may have at that time. Trying to formulate and ask informed questions as to the finances of a $50,000 to $75,000 contest is almost impossible in the short time period at the bid meeting. One of the changes enacted as a result of Santa Clara was that each group submit their respective bids to the E. Board 90 days prior to the bid date. This time would allow the E. Board to study each proposal at length and formulate informed question. I heard there were no questions by the E. board at the bid meeting. That was because they already asked their questions of both groups before the bid meeting. Everyone agrees this is the only way to go from now on. As I said earlier none of this was proposed until it came crashing down on us in Santa Clara. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Australian IPMS >> Well, since IPMS doesn't have quite the same hold in Aus as overseas, there isn't a "nats" as such. << Shane, There's nothing stopping you guys from starting an IPMS Australia. That's what we did in the US. IPMS started in The United Kingdom. If you're interested in starting an IPMS Australia (I think that's a great idea.) contact IPMS USA about the procedure to do so. I would assume you would have draw up a Constitution, set dues pricing and the like. I don't know how you would handle a Nationals since Australia is split by such massive distances of outback, but that's your problem. You're more familiar with Australia than any of us non-Aussies. Go for it. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ Hi Rusty, et al, I didn't want to delve too much into this, but I suppose I'd better clear up any mis-understandings from my reply yesterday. Before I start though, I want to state quite categorically that on balance I'm in favour of IPMS & it's various incarnations around the world. It has done a lot to promote the hobby over the years. IPMS in this country was formed shortly after IPMS started in the UK & is still running under the guise of IPMS(Australia). Various states have their own IPMS clubs, but a national organisation as such doesn't exist here due a variety of reasons. Below is part of a post that Lorna & I posted to rms the other day, after a similar query. APMA was formed by ex-members of IPMS(Australia) some 25 years ago who were dissatisfied by the actions of the national body at THAT time. What was wanted by a vast majority was a place to meet and talk about modelling without a lot of internal politicking. The view was that the only way to provide this was to form a new club. Those that wished to still partake of the benefits of being an IPMS member, in the main took up IPMS UK membership but still joined and supported APMA. We are essentially a Sydney based club, but we have members all around NSW, Australia & the world with a continually growing membership. Those members who don't live in Sydney, generally join for the APMA Magazine. Essentially, we're a laid back club, where politics generally is not a factor so we must be doing something right. While it may seem to be a duplication of effort, most Australian clubs seem to prefer to operate by themselves & not be beholden to some larger national organisation. As most of the Australian clubs freely exchange information with each other and other clubs in the world, the membership has the benefits of being part of a larger organisation but still having a good sized local club that he or she feels comfortable attending. Although we sometimes laughingly talk about forming IPMS(Oceania) to service the region, Lorna & I decided that a better idea would be to form SLAPME (Shane & Lorna's Australian Plastic Modelling Empire). Regards, Shane & Lorna Jenkins Contact us off list for details of membership in SLAPME & other assorted requirements as devised by the Mistress. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "FCR" Subject: Skywave Ukuru Escort Hello SMMLiers I bought recently the Skywave IJN Ukuru Escort ships but unfortunately I don't have no picture of any ship of this class. They tell me that I must put a Japanese flag in the sides but I don't have nothing that confirms me that and other doubts. Any information of websites, books and pictures about this class would be very useful. Thanks for any information Happy Modeling Filipe Ramires -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: 1/96th Scale Secretary Class Cutter Francis X. Kranick, Jr. wrote: >> I recently received a copy of the Revell Taney (thanks again, Ken) but since myinterests always gravitated towards larger subjects, a 1/300th scale model of this ship just won't do it for me. Scale Shipyard (I'm told) offers a 1/96th scale hull for this class but I've not yet heard back from them. << Yes, he has this hull available in 1/96 scale. Basically, it is a one man shop, and he gets a "lot" of email and inquiries - it can take quite a while to get a personal reply sometimes. Your best bet is to get his catalog, which list the hull, and also available resin detail parts (like the 5" mount) that are available for it. You will have to scratchbuild the deck and upperworks. >> I'm putting together the project in my mind and am again considering the Taney in her WWII iteration. A tour of the ship last year hooked me and seeing a photo of her with her awnings fixed set that hook - a very pretty ship... << Agreed! I have always liked that class myself. Another preserved example is at Patriot's Point, in Charleston, though the Taney is better preserved. Check also the Floating Drydock, which has plans and may have wartime photos of the ship. >> Has anyone else built, perhaps not this particular ship but another similarly-sized project? Is there anything of which I should be especially aware? << Wow, that is an open ended question! Are you building a static or r/c model? I built a 1/100 scale German DD from WWII, which is roughly the same size, so I'd be glad to help with your questions if I can. The best initial advice I can give you is to gather as much information on the ship as you can before you start building, and early on select the time period you wish to portray her in. If you get the hull, remember to check the beam against the plans - fiberglass hulls often spread a bit, and you will need to install some cross beams to correct this as well as provide support for the deck. Kurt Greiner SeaPhoto Maritime Photography Now with online ordering! http://www.modelersboatyard.com/seaphoto -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Duane W. Christensen" Subject: Re: MS12 mod cammo on USS Vincennes CA-44 Mark, Sorry to muddy up your waters further on colors, but the Vincennes was painted in a three color MS12 mod. I obtained a 30"x40" enlargement of the well known May '42 Pearl Harbour shot (with the SOC alongside), and the side of the aircraft hanger, which is flush with the side of the ship, clearly shows all three colors present. So there can be no question of contrast on a single surface. They even painted a patch of the darkest color at the upper edge of the hanger, which is not supposed to be done on a "superstructure" area in MS12 mod. I've been struggling with this ship's cammo for a few years too, it has to be the ^%$#&%$#'est MS12 mod scheme out there! Duane P.S. Still pulling my hair out over painting "Teak" color on a scratch built IJN Chikuma's decks in 1/200 scale :-( -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Vimieraa@aol.com Subject: Rules for judging I ask that someone who has a current copy of the IPMS judging rules, please post it (IN FULL) on SMML, assuming of course that the document is not classified, and not withstanding the rewrite to come. I would VERY much like to see these rules and I'm sure that others would.I intend to submit a model for next years IPMS Nationals of a Sherman tank (circa1944) fitted with only a light machine gun and painted overall black. Will I lose any points because of this? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Doremus, Mark" Subject: Good bye Mistress Lorna Mistress Lorna, Thank you for standing in for Shane. Your first ship model thread was a killer idea. Did you tell us what your first ship model was? Sorry if I missed it. Shane, Good to have you back even if you will only be standing (yes, it's a back joke) short watches. Have you thought of sending Rusty a copy of the APMA judging guide lines to consider while he's helping re-write the US book? Many thanks, Mark Doremus semi-tropical Eden Prairie, MN Hi Mark, My first ship model is the Airfix Golden Hind (the small one) that I picked up as something to work on in between "real" kits ;-) in those odd moments you have while you wait for glue or paint to dry. Given that it's Airfix it will probably take at least 5 years to finish at this rate :-) Although I could be tempted to build a serious ship, if someone would release a Furious in the "right" scale. Mistress Lorna (builder of the other things that require rigging - WW1 aircraft) Mark, Anyone who would like a copy of the APMA judging guidelines, are welcome to email me offlist for a copy. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: HMS Iron Duke Hi Matt The mast you refer to is the foremast which in this case carries a fighting top. I would suggest finding a suitable cylindrical object and modifying this (pen or refil body?) R A Burt (British Battleships of World War 1) shows Iron Duke in both her 1921 and 1914 configurations. The height of the foremast doesn't seem to have changed but a small mainmast has been added. In 1914 there was only one mast carried. There are also some very good photos of her. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: HMS Warspite Hi Caroline I would have thought it was very rare to wash decks in wartime, unless you had blood and other unpleasant stuff to wash off. I am also very wary of relying on memory (I don't dispute that the crew member is with it) it is extremely unreliable and selective. This is not to say it can be a useful tool but it needs to be backed up by other evidence. I always go with the photographic evidence first. But even this can be interpreted differently. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Joe Costanzo Subject: Life Raft Prepping I'm building the Classic Warships St Louis CL 49, and I'm having a little trouble with the white metal life rafts. Each has a small "backing" that is very difficult to remove, the parts are too small to sand and it is similarly cumbersome to use a hobby knife, even when the parts are on the tree. Any suggestions? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: WW ONE ROYAL NAVY COLOURS Hi Guys, I heard that John Snyder, has recently come into possession of a source for WWI paint chips.. and he was curious as to whether anyone out there might be interested in these? What a daft question (!).. people have been trying to obtain these colours for as long as any of us can remember, and I reckon they'll be a much bigger seller than the Italian colours which are being formulated.. I mean, hell, some of those WWI colour schemes used pinks, purples and yellows, and carried some of the most outrageous colour schemes ever seen in the history of the ship.. I think we NEED them, and it'll give the camou. enthusiast a change from grey for WWI R.N.!! It would also be a great incentive for the kit manufacturers, ourselves included. So.. how's about some enthusiastic feedback for John, chaps?? All the Best Caroline Carter White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/main.htm For plastic and resin ship kits, etched brass, books, colour chips, videos, and Plastic Ship Modeller, just click here! http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/plist1.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Burl Burlingame / Pacific Monograph Subject: Judging >> I have received a number of suggestions to improve the way we judge ships at the Nationals. The good news is that the Contest Committee is going to literally rewrite the IPMS Judges Hand book. I already have a number of additions to the ships chapter. I may add some basics on judging color << Rusty, a suggestion -- when the handbook is revised, also put it online. Burl Burlingame Pacific Monograph, 1124 Kahili Street, Kailua HI 96734 A historical interpretation company. Visit our web site at http://www.PacificHistory.com/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Tiny a/c decals Howdy: Anyone know where I can find ~1/429 scale decals or some way to paint them on? I only need the national insignias for the Kingfishers carried by the USS Arizona. I figure I can paint a blue dot and a little red dot for the middle, put painting a itsy bitsy star would be very tough (at least free hand). I'm open to suggestions. Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Damian Pliszka Subject: IJN Tone questions. Hi all, Later next week I'm going to start my new model IJN Tone in 1:200 (card model). Large scale means lots of details. I have plans from Profile Morskie and of course card model released by Fly Model from Poland. Generally plans fits with model very good. But there are some details missed or shown not very clear. There are: - rigging, shown on plans but is not absolutely clear where starts some antennas ect. - on funnel sides there was construction on which probably were carried parts of seaplanes, I'm not sure their exact shape. I found one photo with funnel close-up but unforunately it shows it after hitting by 250 kg bomb ;-) - I don't know if upper deck (with heavy AA arillery) was covered with linoleum (and was brown) or metal (and dark gray). I'll be appreciate any help. Best ragards Damian Pliszka (Poland) Hot... hot... but there are coming storms. Hurray (?) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Off topic, but scale Anyone know of a source for scale bicycle chain, specifically 1:16? Please contact me off-list unless you really think the rest of the group will be interested. Thanks in advance. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Fernando, Yohan" Subject: Mogami Turret tops I have a question about the Mogami's turret tops- thankfully not the Bismarck's or any other German warship ! :-) There is a photo in the Osprey Campaign series book on Midway which shows the burning hulk of the Mikuma. It clearly shows one of the front three turrets painted white with a red hinomaru ("meatball") that was most probably used for aerial recognition by friendly planes. Does anyone know how often this was done to IJN warships and how long into the war this practice might have continued? I wanted to spruce up my late-war Mogami by adding the painted turret top, but don't know if this would be appropriate in 1944. (Would you really want to steam for Surigao Strait into US infested waters with a Japanese flag boldly painted on your ship? I think 'victory fever' had long since died down by that time!) Would it be probable that in 1944 they would at least have used the recognition flag in home waters (painting it out as the they approached the war zone)? Thanks for the info. Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: HMS Iron Duke blast bags and other gasbagging Hi Matt >> I've greatly enjoyed reading SMML in the last few weeks. As I mentioned in earlier posts, I'm currently working on Airfix's 1/600 Iron Duke. I attempted to add blast bags to the turrets by using aluminium foil fixed with white glue. It didn't work very well! Small pieces of foil are quite fiddly to work with, and I couldn't get it to wrap tightly enough around the gun barrels. So don't use this method :) << Suggest using Milliput or any suitable filler. >> I'd like to do it in in an early (pre-Jutland) configuration, and as many of you know the Airfix kit is of late and/or indeterminate vintage. I'm basing my modifications to the kit on the illustrations in Tony Gibbons' book on battleships, which proports to show Iron Duke in a 1914 configuration. Questions: How accurate are those drawings? << Can't comment on this, as I don't have the book, but two sets of drawings which are generally accurate are those supplied by Sambrook Marine (sheets 1 & 2 showing the vessel in 1916, with sheet 3 detailing changes in appearance throughout her career), and those appearing in Ray Burt's book "British Battleships of World War 1", showing her in 1914. >> The drawing shows a smallish, cylendrical structure on top of the tripod, while the kit has a larger, more complex structure. What's the best way to scratcbuild an early control top? << This shouldn't be too much of a problem, as the early spotting top (that's the lump on top of the tripod) was exactly circular in cross section, the upper level being narrower than the lower, but still circular. Using a soft wire or plastic rod to form the vision slit framing etc., this should be relatively easy using circular rod or tube for the main structure. Reference to good photo's or a plan will of course be essential. >> Other drawings I've seen seem to indicate that the tripod mast was somewhat higher at first than later fittings. Is this true? << The actual tripod, i.e. the lower part of the mast up to the spotting top, did not change in height, but the part of the mast above this, did change in height at various stages of her career. >> Forgive my ignorance on this one; I'm still learning about ships, but Iron Duke has quite a tall mast with several cross spars (terminology?) that rises significantly higher than the tripod mast and looks oddly reminiscent of the mast of a sailing ship. What is this called, and what is it used for? Tony Gibbons' drawing shows this mast rising almost as high again as the top of the tripod mast, with (from memory) three cross spars. The kit's mast is considerably shorter, with only one cross spar. Which is correct for the early Iron Duke? << The cross spars are known as yards. The largest of these was fitted directly to the "starfish" on top of the tripod, with a further three at intervals up the topmast. She originally had a further short length of mast, the topgallant, fitted on top of the topmast, but this was removed in August 1914. The topmast was later shortened, references vary on the date, but somewhere between 1916 and 1918, with only one yard above starfish level. After the war the mast was again extended with a new, taller topgallant. The topmast and yards were basically used for suspending signal halyards and radio aerials, so were primarily part of the communications equipment. There were other changes made in the first couple of years of Iron Duke's service, for instance the aft pair of 6" guns were moved from their position in the hull to the aft end of the forward superstructure, and during her trials she carried torpedo net booms along the hull sides. If your budget stretches to it, I would thoroughly recommend the Sambrook drawings, which although costing in the region of £23 for the full set, will provide all the information you will need to model the ship at any time in her career up to the mid 1920's. Failing this, if you can get hold of a copy of the Ray Burt book, you will have enough for the 1914 fit (although this is a king's ransom these days if you want to buy it). As I don't have one of the Airfix kits to hand at the moment, I can't be more specific about all the changes necessary, but hopefully this will give you some idea of how accurate the Gibbons drawing is. At the risk of sounding too mercenary, a nice set of our 1/600 Iron Duke photo-etch would set the model off admirably, and all for a mere £9.15, and you get a nice plan and profile included! All My Best Dave Carter White Ensign Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Bob LaBouy Subject: Re: IPMS/US Dear Guys/Fellow Modelers, I am not about to start another "badminton" round robin type of discussion, but feel maybe a brief comment is warranted. Most of you don't know me (nor care I'm sure). However, from my perspective, I watched the entire bidding process which just occurred within IPMS-USA as more than a casual observer. Some of you will remember that I have participated in several such conventions (both in Seattle and elsewhere), was involved in the Society as a worker bee for about 8-9 years at the national level, have been a member for a bit more than 31/32 years, prepared and presented the Seattle Chapter bid for the 2001 proposal, have been reasonably active in our local little chapter in Seattle since about 1963/64 and even have built a couple of "targets" (actually stealing a 2nd place a few years back) and am just now seriously testing my intelligence and skills with three more watery subjects. I am almost afraid to admit, having read some of the heated discussions herein lately, that I both participated in the writing of our original Constitution and By-Laws and participated as a member of the Review Committee for a number of years following my departure from IPMS office. I also initiated and started the current judging committee and process we have in IPMS-USA today, back in the dark ages around '74-76. I am actually quite proud of both articles and systems. There are really well founded reasons for almost everything I see mentioned in your complaints and arguments. My suspicion is that you'd be surprised with the rationale for all of these aspects of our IPMS-USA Society, if you were to sit down and learn the "whys" and "what fors." Maybe not. In any event, as I mentioned, I am not an "arguer" or firebrand of any serious nature, nor do I take any of the comments I read in the various notes to be attacks on me or the others who did all of the terrible things some of you mention. I am not exactly pleased with some of what went on in Orlando, but feel we have an elected EBoard and theirs is to manage on our behalf. They may or may not be right in their actions, but at least they made a decision. I for one, expect to go to Chicago and enjoy myself (even if I'd rather have a bunch of you come to Seattle to enjoy our brand of what we call summer and the great outdoors). My greatest contribution to some of this discussion though, is to suggest to those of you interested and so inclined, to join into the management of IPMS-USA, run for office, voice your opinions and participate in the affairs of the Society aside from just your modeling interests. It's actually fun, rewarding and you'll make a group of life long friends, see the efforts of some of the greatest modeling artists of our time and learn from their efforts. To say that I've been happy with everything I see done in the Society, at each of our conventions and by all our officers would be foolish--I'm not. However, in the "big picture," I wouldn't give up my time in modeling and IPMS-USA for anything. I sort of suspect now that I've "aided and abetted" in identifying the "enemy" for a few of you, I'll be getting some of those warm comments directly. Them are the way the chips fall sometimes. In any case I'm about to duck out and join with my lovely wife in our annual foray into the wilds of Idaho, Wyoming and Montana to enjoy the riches of our country and to try to scare wild trout to death with our shamelessly poor fly fishing techniques. If you think building ships in 700th scale is challenging, you wouldn't believe full scale Rainbow Trout in the wild rivers, with hand made size 24 flies! Yours truly, Bob LaBouy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Tom Dean Subject: HMCS CHAUDIERE Hi gang: The picture of the ship with the pendant number H99 would indeed be CHAUDIERE. She did have B mount removed and replaced by a Hedgehog mount. Interestingly, she also had old Hotchkiss guns on either side of the Hedgehog. As to HMS HERO having "I" in the superior of her number I am not sure. I have a picture of HERO taken in 1936 with "H" in the superior. The British Admiralty did order a change in some pendant numbers(1940) with D and F changing to G and I, making room in the numbering system for new construction.It did affect some of the RCN destroyers, but CHAUDIERE was not one of them. The fact that the picture was taken from MALAYA would indicate it was indeed an RN ship. Although I could find no proof, I would try to get some info on HMS DUNCAN as she sported D99, and if D was changed to I, there is a chance as she fills the bill for the type of ship. Unfortunately the only picture I can find of DUNCAN has the number removed, apparently by a censor. Maybe some of the guys on the other side of the "Oggin" have better info. Tom Dean Hamilton, Ontario Canada -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: b38cch@webtv.net (Clifford Holley) Subject: Re: 16" Broadside The USS Pennsylvania (BB-38) had 4 turrets consisting of three 14" rifles and I know that there are those crewmembers whose General Quarter stations were topside remained topside while fighting the ship, i.e. Lookouts, Signalmen, Gunners Mates and Marines on 20mm's and quad-40mm's, Runners and Sound-powered telephone talkers to name some. Turret 2 and 3 both had quad-40mm on top. Broadsides were not uncommon and yes you could see the projectiles, with a 40 kilometre range, very well. And at night, to say a broadside was spectacular, could be the major understatement. There is a "Pennsy" site with some pictures that may appeal to some WW-II aficionados. http://www.inland.net/~ken/munro/bb-38.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: Orange Peel Finish and Dremel Moto-Tool Meltdown Fellow SMMLies: I have two questions about modeling techniques that I hope that some of you out there might be able to answer -- perhaps that guy who uses chewing gum to simulate blast bags (what a great idea!) might have some suggestions! 1) abrasive pastes: I am getting ready to paint one of my models and noticed that the spray primer had left an "orange peel" finish in a few places. I would like to smooth the finish in these areas without using sandpaper (which obscures delicate surface detail) or steel wool (very hard to work with in small places), and without removing the primer from the entire model (since the problem exists in only a small number of places). One technique I thought might work is to use a toothbrush to apply an abrasive paste of some sort, scrubbing the part lightly until the paint finish is smooth. Has anyone tried such a technique, and could they recommend an abrasive paste of some sort for this purpose? Please don't suggest tooth paste; I've tried it, and it is not abrasive enough! 2) I have achieved very satisfactory results using my Dremel moto-tool when working with resin, both as a low-tech milling tool and lathe. However, whenever I use it on polystyrene kits it melts the plastic. I'm using the fixed speed moto-tool with a Dremel rheostat at the lowest setting (the Dremel catalog says you can't use the rheostat with the variable speed moto-tool -- which I also have). How can I further reduce the RPMs to reduce the friction and heat build-up that causes the melting? (Yes, I've tried moving the grinding/cutting bit around while I work, but this is not always possible.) Any help on these matters is greatly appreciated, and thanks to all you out there who have offered help on the USS Enterprise CV-6 conversion project. Best wishes, Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Michael C. Smith" Subject: Enterprise and F4Us Hangar deck was dark gray - whether that means dark gray or deck blue, I can't say. But definitely not white. (Source: 1941 photo of Adm. Halsey on hangar deck of Enterprise in dress whites to see a movie). When I did a full hangar 1940 Yorktown, I used Testors FS 36118 Gunship Gray (which I also use in 1/700 for Deck Blue on catwalks) if that helps. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: "arthur" Subject: Re: Malta Submarine For the person who requested information on the WW2 sub he saw during a harbour cruise whilst on holiday in Malta. Answers are still coming in but unfortunately nobody has identified the vessel yet. Arthur Fwd'd Message >>From: Valletta Alexandra Subject: Submarine Reference is made to your request for information re a submarine in Sliema Creek. This submarine is buried in silt, and not much of it is left, and is not considered a dive site in Malta. It is charted on the maritime maps, and is found some 20 - 25 metres in Sliema creek, between Manoel Island and Ta'Xbiex. I trust this information is as required, however do not hesitate to contact me should you require additional information. Kind regards Alexandra Valletta Area Marketing & SIT Executive << -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Denis L Johnson Subject: British lifeboat We were in the UK recently and visited Land's End, having previously been to John o'Groats. They have on display (out of water) the life boat James and Catherine MacFarlane, an Oakley self-righter built in 1967. I thought she might be of interest to somebody & took about a dozen pictures of her hull, deck & interior. Anybody interested plse contact me at: mailto:BALJNO2@JUNO.com Denis J -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Felix Bustelo Subject: New York Model Festival I would like to remind everyone about the New York Ship & Boat Model Festival that is being held on August 7 and 8 from 1 - 5 PM at the South Street Seaport Museum. It is a non-competitive exhibit of ship models of all types and sizes. There will be a pool wher RC boats will be operated. For the kids, the Seaport will hold have materials for building boat models, sort of an arts & craft thing which is fun for the kids. Also, there will be a group singing sea chanteys on and off through the afternoons. I will be there on Sunday, August 8 only. If you can, please stop by and say hello. Felix Bustelo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Jimbo" Subject: Heller and Nichimo Ships Thanks to those who responded to my cry for Heller large scale sailing ships and Nichimo 1/500 Japanese Navy ships. I am amazed at the Heller ships I found and didn't even know they existed. If anyone has more of these they would like to sell email me. I am still at the kid in the candy shop phase. * Heller 1/200, 1/150, 1/96, etc. scale Sailing Ships * Heller Viking Ships (the Mitilde and the Navire) * Nichimo 1/500 Carriers, Battleships and Cruisers (Japanese) Thanks again Jimbo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume