Subject: SMML07/08/99VOL630 Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 00:33:52 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Judging 2: Broadside induced motion 3: Re: Sub question 4: Ship Judges 5: Re: Sub question 6: Re: Attaching rigging lines to ship decks 7: HMS Hood and IJN Musashi 8: Re: Soviet WW2 Warships 9: Re: Helping fellow SMMLer 10: Re: Dutch IPMS judging 11: Re: Sub question 12: Re: Attaching rigging lines to ship decks 13: Duncan 14: Re: Sub question 15: Gunfire 16: Atlantic Models 1/350 Kirov 17: Judging, Paint Schemes, Color, and Cookies 18: Re: Rigging lines to decks 19: HMCS Chaudiere and changing RCN pendant numbers 20: Why paint gray plastic gray? 21: Re: Rigging to decks 22: Re: Sub question 23: HMS Duncan (not HMCS Chaudiere) 24: Type 148 fast patrol boat 25: 1999 Warship Camouflage 26: A Note of Thanks 27: Dutch Naval Archives? 28: Enterprise flight deck 29: Small Aircraft Markings 30: Re: RN WW1 Paint Chips 31: Lindberg 1/535 USS Yorktown(CV-10) kit, the 1/700 Tamiya kits HMS Hood 32: Broadsides 33: Orange peel primer 34: Re: 16" Broadside 35: Daddy, what did you do during the war? 36: Warspite 1944 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: Kit and Books for Sale -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: James Corley Subject: Re: Judging >> Basics will always come first, followed by difficulty(hard to judge at times) then accuracy. While it may not be perfect, it seems to be popular works well. As we had more models entered since the introduction of this system. << I like the idea of judging difficulty, and we do add that factor at the local level, but there is no provision for it in my 1997 IPMS Judges Handbook.......Rusty, how about it? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "foeth" Subject: Broadside induced motion >> I've also read that the ship (Missouri) moves sideways about twenty feet after one of these belches. << Err, that would be from the same people who claim you can stand up in the main guns. The ship hardly moves when firing, a few millimeters or so (Yes, it moves more when it is sailing at 32 kts, but I mean sideway motion) Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: James Corley Subject: Re: Sub question >> I customer of mine's father served on board a sub in the Aleutians late 42 and early 43. He doesn;t know which one and has asked to me help try and find out. I have his name and tags #'s and what not, but I figured this might be a good place to find which subs served in this timeframe in the Aleutians Anybody have an idea? << There were quite a few subs in the Alaskan theatre at that time, but most were the older, smaller S-boats....which according to Morrisson were deemed unfit for SoPac/SoWesPac duty due to their lack of air conditioning (not a problem up there!) email me off the list and I'll see what I cam find out. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: James Corley Subject: Ship Judges >> I always need good ship judges. Rusty White << What are you saying Rusty.....we aint no stinkin' good! ;-} (Explanation for the thickheaded conspiracy types....ITS A JOKE!!!!) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Sub question >> A customer of mine's father served on board a sub in the Aleutians late 42 and early 43. He doesn;t know which one and has asked to me help try and find out. I have his name and tags #'s and what not, but I figured this might be a good place to find which subs served in this timeframe in the Aleutians << These were probably the older S-boats that operated out of Dutch Harbor, Alaska. Included were S-18, S-23, S-27, S-28, S-30, S-31, S-32, S-33, S-34 and S-35. The S-boats, built just following World War I, were very ill-suited to the harsh environment that they encountered there, and contributed little to the war effort. Some fleet submarines made early patrols (early, mid '42) in these waters. The Submarine Force Museum and Library in Groton, CT., has patrol records of the US submarine in WWII. They might be able to assist you. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Les Case" Subject: Re: Attaching rigging lines to ship decks >> I am about to rig a ship for the first time and I would very much appreciate your help. I believe that have a good handle on what materials to use for the rigging (e.g. stretched sprue, invisible tread, fly fishing line, etc.), and what glues to use to attach them to the yard arms (e.g., super glue), from reading the daily SMML over the last several months. However, I would kindly appreciate from the SMML readership some proven ideas on how to attach the lines to flat decks where there is no easy attachment point. Any input would be greatly appreciateded. << To make funnel guys on 1:600 ocean liners: Before installing the decks in the hull, I drill holes in the decks using the tiniest drill bit I can find at the hobby shop. Then, I tie a knot in the end of a pre-cut length of fly-fishing line, thread the line through the hole I drilled in the deck so that the knot is on the underside and secure the knot with a drop of CA super glue. Then I install the deck. This technique makes for a very untidy work-in-progress: RMS Mauretania had sixteen guys per funnel and four funnels. And that doesn't count rigging on and between the masts. I can only imagine what the rigging on a sailing vessel would require. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: HMS Hood and IJN Musashi Hi Andy I've built the Musashi and Hood and for what its worth here are my comments. IJN Musashi (if its the old version) does need a fair amount of work. I replaced all light AA, aircraft, masts and 5 inch turrets with better versions. I also used both the Eduard and Gold Medal PE sheets to detail the model. The Skulski book on the Yamato is extremely helpful here as both ships were very similar and it includes a lot of photos of Musashi. The colour is difficult try Synder and Shorts IJN colour chips for an idea. If you need any more help contact me off list. Hood I built pre White Ensign and some day intend to buy their PE sheet and improve it. The model represents her in her 1941 fit just before the Bismark encounter. Its a very good model, the funnels for some reason are skewed and need to be straightened. There is also a rogue bulkhead in the old gun battery which should be removed. You might want to consider replacing the UP launchers point five machine guns and pom-poms with White Ensign resin parts. I would leave the 4 inch as they're quite good. For colours, at the time she is represented she was in AP507B medium grey (Humbrol 145 is a good match) with unpainted wood decks and dark grey steel decks. The Hood website (which I can't remember the address of) has a great deal of useful information. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Katz, Gene S" Subject: Re: Soviet WW2 Warships Howdy You'all Are there any WW2 USSR warship models available in plastic or resin? I always thought that the destroyer Tashkent was a good looking ship. Just curious. Thanks, Gene -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Helping fellow SMMLer As regards paint color, the single color HOOD was in at the time of her loss was AP507B. MUSASHI was in Kure Naval Arsenal Gray. Paint chip examples of those colors are contained in our Royal Navy Set 1, and Imperial Japanese Navy set, respectively. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Dutch IPMS judging Actually, resin most definitely is plastic. The main difference between a resin cast it and a polystyrene model is resin is a liquid that is catalytically hardened in a chemical reaction while polystyrene starts out as hard pellets that are melted, squirted into a mold and allowed to cool. If judges in your group are opposed to PE, then they should ban decals as well, since they aren't "plastic" either. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Sub question By the end of May 1942, S-boats patrolling the Aleutians included: S-18 (LtC Millican), S-23 (LtC Pierce), S-27 (Lt Jukes), S-28 (LtC Crowley, later LtC Sisler), S-34 (Lt Keating,jr), S-35 (LtC Stevens, later under Lt Monroe). Additional boats arriving that summer: S-30 (LtC Laing), S-31 (LtC Williamson, later under LtC Sellars), S-32 (LtC Schmidt), S-33 (LtC Schoeni). This from a quick scan of Theodore Roscoe's UNITED STATES SUBMARINE OPERATIONS IN WORLD WAR II. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Attaching rigging lines to ship decks You did not specify what kind of ship your are rigging or what scale. Since the answer is obvious in larger model sailing ships, I will assume you mean more contemporary vessels and smaller scales. The best method is to plan ahead and drill attachment holes before various parts get in the way and before you risk messing up the paint job. Often, I will drill clear through the hull and simply thread the line through the hull, pull it as snug as need be, super glue it from below, then sand it down. This will be invisible when you paint the hull - better still, on a waterline model it won't show at all. This actually is a variation on the method for securing all the lines on a ship-in-a-bottle. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Vimieraa@aol.com Subject: Duncan Photos of Duncan taken in 1940/42 and 43, show NO pendant number, this would be in line with the practice of Leaders not wearing numbers. Exceptions to this were very rare. Duncan was fitted in late 1941 early 1942 with a mainmast to carry a type FH4 HF/DF. Believed to be the ONLY two funneled destroyer to have this mainmast angled at the same degree as the foremast. Also fitted with (from late 1941 early 1942) with split hedgehogs port and starboard just aft of 'A' gun on the foredeck. In 1943 on the fore funnel, one wide black band underlined by one very narrow white band, and then underneath a B7 in black. Six single 20mm fitted from late 1941 early 1942. 1940 Dark hull, light upperworks 1941 Unknown 1942 (early) Western Approaches type 1943 (early) Overall light grey 1944 Unknown 1945 Unknown I would be interested to see any additional data on this vessel. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Sub question According to Theodore Roscoe's _United States Submarine Operations in World War II_ (Annapolis: USNI, 1949, 6th printing 1958), S-18 and S-23 arrived at Dutch Harbor on January 27, 1942 to begin war patrols. By the end of May 1942 they had been joined by S-27, S-28, S-34, and S-35. S-27 was lost on June 19 by grounding. On June 28, 1942, a number of fleet subs arrived in Dutch Harbor: GROWLER, TRITON, FINBACK, TRIGGER, GRUNNION, GATO, TUNA, and HALIBUT; in addition, S-31, S-32, and S-33 arrived in July, and S-30 in August. GRUNNION was lost off Kiska at the end of July. S-44 arrived some time in 1943. NAUTILUS and NARWHAL arrived in April 1943 for the invasion of Attu, and by May 1943 S-41 was also operating in the Aleutians. Hope this helps. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Jon Parshall Subject: Gunfire John Snyder wrote: >> I don't remember ever seeing anything in print about staggering the fire of main guns in a broadside to avoid overstressing the hull of a BB (or any other ship, for that matter). What I HAVE read, many times in many sources, is that the main battery guns were sequenced to fire slightly delayed from each other to avoid the problem of the projectiles "kissing" (i.e., colliding or sideswiping) in flight, which would result in a fall of shot nowhere near where intended. << That's exactly right. Many WWII ships were equipped with delay coils to space the firing of shells in a single turret by a few milliseconds to avoid interference with the blast effects of adjacent barrels. This equipment seems to have been introduced in U.S. warships around 1935, and in Japanese warships around the same time. Bear in mind, too, that firing full salvos was not the only way to fire the guns. Ships frequently fired their salvos fore and aft or by alternating turrets (half salvos), or even by firing a single gun in each turret (called split salvos. Note that this was not as attractive in earlier turret designs where all barrels in amount were affixed to a common cradle, which precluded one barrle from being loaded while another was fired.) In general, the USN preferred firing full salvos, although there are instances of half salvos. Split salvos by barrel do not seem to have been widely used. The Royal Navy had used half salvos very prevalently in World War I, but were more inclined to full salvos during the Second World War, particularly in their cruisers. The Kriegsmarine used half salvos extensively in their heavy warships (the first four salvos of the gunnery engagement against Hood was conducted in this fashion), but did not like split salvos. Their cruisers seemed to have used full salvos. There is little evidence regarding the Japanese Navy's preferences in this area, but what little there is points towards the usage of full salvos (hence the introduction of delay coils to negate blast interference). Hope that helps. Jon Parshall- Imperial Japanese Navy Homepage http://www.skypoint.com/members/jbp/kaigun.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: WFulp@aol.com Subject: Atlantic Models 1/350 Kirov I read Peter Hall's update on Atlantic Models upcoming releases and wanted to comment on it. I hate to see a lack of interest in a new kit cause that release to be canceled or pushed back. I am very excited to see a 1/350 Kirov kit coming out as it is one of the most influential post WWII ships ever built. I know that the size of this kit will drive the costs up but, if I can afford it, I will definitely purchase one of these kits. I don't even know what the preliminary costs were estimated to be. I think a lot of resin ship kit builders wait until the kit is ready to actually place an order. Unfortunately the "coming soon" lists of ship kits from resin manufacturers would complete most of the worlds navies. I have sent checks, faxed credit card information, and waited for as long as a year on many kits that never were produced. There have been several kits on the Warship site with pictures of the master patterns and pricing that have just gone away. Every kit manufacturer in the industry has an upcoming release list that would take years to complete. My point is that there is probably a lot more demand for a lot of kits than is initially known due to the way our hobby works. There are a couple of words that excite resin modelers more than anything else, "IN STOCK". P.S. Now, how do you scratchbuild a lower hull for the Kirov?..... Wayne Fulp wfulp@aol.com from Jacksonville, FL where the heat index was 116 last week. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Richard - Charlotte Marelius" Subject: Judging, Paint Schemes, Color, and Cookies I'd just like to check in with my humble opinion. I think that paint scheme accuracy should be subordinated to more basic modeling technique, because as was recently pointed out, the difficulty in judging a model of a well documented subject versus one that is obscure. Similarly, color interpretation, both of the model and of the original subject, is heavily biased by ambient light in the judging hall, when the modeler compares his mix to a color chip, film used for photos of the original, age of film, print, etc I remember from an old mil spec that I had in my files many moves ago, that the color inspection was to be performed in 'north sky daylight'. Makes sense - is this typical for ideal color inspection, all you color experts? That particular spec was for cookies (yes, mil spec cookies), and part of the inspection, buried in amongst the fifteen or so pages of spec, was to verify that the color of the cookies was between chip #XXXXX and #XXXXX per FED-STD-595, when held in north sky daylight, and yes, they were chocolate 'chip' cookies. (What color should Lorna'a Anzac Biscuits be?). BTW, for those who have access, I believe that the spec was MIL-C-1029, and it also had a 'type II' cookie that was similar to an Oreo. Maybe IPMS Dallas could arrange to have some on hand for judging next year. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Dave Judy Subject: Re: Rigging lines to decks Bob, I drill a very tiny hole where the line attaches to the deck, dip the line into CA glue(thin) and set it in the hole, then work upwards. I have good results with this method! Dave Judy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Bob Pearson" Subject: HMCS Chaudiere and changing RCN pendant numbers Looking at the Book "River Class Destroyers of the RCN", it has a photo of HMS Hero in 1936 and HMCS Chaudiere in 1945 ... both carrying H99. As for changing pendant numbers, The first two RCN Rivers went through two changes. HMCS Saguenay H01 (later assigned to Hotspur in 1936) D79 (1936-39/40) I79 (1940 on) HMCS Skeena D59 I59 As Skeena was contemporary with Saguenay, I am curious if she also carried H superior until 1936. Regards, Bob Pearson Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.internetmodeler.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Denis & Marilyn Campbell Subject: Why paint gray plastic gray? Foeth wrote: >> Let me put this discussion in a slightly differnet perspective: Last year at the dutch IPMS nationals, the second pize went to a model of the Kongo, which was not even painted grey (Thank god I did not participate), so you see, it can be a lot worse. And who can argue against it? Why paint grey plastic gray? << I am not going to get into the judging dispute (am not a member of IPMS and have never shown a model at a contest or competed - I model for myself) but-- one of the first lessons I learned when I started building plastic models is: PAINT every surface - so it doesn't LOOK like plastic. The molded-in color of plastic is so recognizeable that, even if the color is correct, the sheen is not - it just LOOKS like plastic. Take a look at some of the parts on modern cars, especially interior trim bits and see. I remember building Revell's uss Constitution and making sure every surface was painted even though most were already the corect color. Without actually picking it up to feel the weight, one would believe it was a wooden model, magnificently carved. I never leave plastic unpainted - and, if you are going to paint it, I think you should take the trouble to see that you use correct colors (I know, I said I wouldn't get into the judging thing, but this is so basic). Denis Campbell Avon MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Rigging to decks When I built the Heller Potemkin some years back I had the same problem you have attaching rigging to decks. I used a pin vise and drilled tiny holes in the deck where the rigging attached. I put a drop of superglue in the hole and inserted the rigging line. This allows for a very strong attachment for the rigging. After about 5 minutes I then attached the other end of the rigging line and let set at least another 5 minutes before using heat to tighten up the line. Incidentally, I use nylon sewing thread colored with a black or gray marker. It looks very realistic. I'm also blind in one eye. Try rigging models that way! Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: Sub question Hi I have the following for Bruce Burden I called the Federal Records Center in Phillie for you and to get the blueprints much less anything you have to have the correct serial numbers and the Federal Records Center Annex is nothing more than a warehouse without a computer inventory list. If you want this is there phone number 1-215-671-8235. Sorry I did my best. Hey Glen Concerning US Subs in the Aleutians in late 42 to spring 43 S-23,S-18,S-34,S-35,S-27,S-28,S-41 Growler SS-215, Triton SS-201,Finback SS-230, Trigger SS-237, Grunion SS-216,Gato SS-212, Tuna SS-203, Halibut SS-232,CachalotSS-170,Dolphin SS-169,Naulitius SS-168, and Narwhal SS-167 They were active from June 1942 to June 1944 in Alaska waters. Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "John Rule" Subject: HMS Duncan (not HMCS Chaudiere) I would like to thank Tom Dean, Chris Langtree and Tim Stoneman for providing help in identifying HMS Duncan (I-99) which I had mistakenly identified as HMCS Chaudiere. I will be pleased to post the photo to SMML for general use if someone can help with the following information. The photo is 3" X 5" and is black and white. What is the optimum file size for a scanned image? How do I post it to SMML or Warship? Thanks John Rule Hi John, While I don't speak for Rob & Warship, if you'd like to post any pictures to the SMML Picpost email me at mailto:sljenkins@tac.com.au & we'll sort it out from there. But in general pictures should be in .jpg format & under 100K in size & sent to my "other" address. I will then post the picture to the site & either email you, so you can post a message or I'll post an update myself. Shane - where it's cold -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Ernst-Bernhard Kayser Subject: Type 148 fast patrol boat Hi my fellow ship modellers, I am toying with the thought of scratchbuilding the boat I on which I used to be plank owner (12 month only, back in the 80s). The vessel was the German fast patrol boat "S54 Elster". Now, here's the question: Does anybody know a source for plans for the Yype 148 missile boats of the modern German navy? Help would be greatly appreciated. Bernhard Kayser Hi Bernard, Revell released a German FPB Fast Attack Boat Type 143 in 1/144(see Plastic Ship Modeller 97/2 1997 pp 5 for a review). Now not knowing much about FPBs this may be a better start, rather than scratchbuilding one. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Sanartjam@aol.com Subject: 1999 Warship Camouflage Hi, I usually think of warship camouflage as an art that died out after World War II, but evidently it's not completely dead; the August 1999 issue of the U.S. Naval Institute Proceedings has a photograph on page 70 of several U.S. patrol boats painted in an interesting three-color, splinter-type pattern. One of the colors is reminiscent of the famous 5-B, Baby Blue. : ). Now I wish they'd paint an Arleigh Burke that way.... Cheers, Art Nicholson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: A Note of Thanks Folks: I just wanted to thank all yous out there who responded to my queries about dealing with the heartache of orange peal finish paint and Dremel moto-tool meltdowns. You provided me with a number of good ideas; I've already purchased some polishing compound and will try it out this weekend. I'll let you know how it works. At the very least, I'll be able to enter my ship models in the car category at the next IPMS contest! Thanks again, Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Michael Eisenstadt Subject: Dutch Naval Archives? Folks: Is there anyone out there who could direct me to the right address (and web site if one exists) for obtaining photos of Royal Netherlands Navy ships in WWII? Is there in the Netherlands a "Dutch National Archives" or "Naval Historical Center" that is the central repository for such photos? I'm interested in obtaining photos of the RNN Tjerk Hiddes (a British N class destroyer that served under RNN colors during WWII) in 1941 when she wore a British admiralty disruptive scheme, and any photos of her sister RNN Van Galen if she wore such a scheme, and figure this is probably the best place to start. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Best wishes, Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: "Michael C. Smith" Subject: Enterprise flight deck (Rusty said) >> I have nothing to base this on, but how about dark gray to represent a nonskid surface. The dark color would hide the unsightly hydraulic fluid and fuel stains. It would make sense. << Rusty, I agree - the darker color would be necessary in a working area. But my guess is that the surface was not nonskid - that would work against "scrubbability" and shouldn't really be necessary on a non-weather deck. I may be influenced by the current state of carrier museum hangar decks, which are unabashedly shiny (dark) paint. Michael Smith Marshall, Texas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: "Ron Hillsden, Victoria BC Canada" Subject: Small Aircraft Markings In the absence of a decal, you can draw your design with a sharp pencil and fill the inside with paint on a small (i.e. 000) brush, just like the old 'Paint by Numbers' sets. The pencil line interferes with surface tension and contains the paint. Practice first! Ron Hillsden Victoria BC Canada My boat club: http://members.home.net/vmss/ Modelmakers Flags: http://members.home.net/ron-hillsden/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: "Ron Hillsden, Victoria BC Canada" Subject: Re: RN WW1 Paint Chips Yes please! Ron Hillsden Victoria BC Canada My boat club: http://members.home.net/vmss/ Modelmakers Flags: http://members.home.net/ron-hillsden/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: "Michael C. Smith" Subject: Lindberg 1/535 USS Yorktown(CV-10) kit, the 1/700 Tamiya kits HMS Hood Andy, You have very good taste! HMS Hood There is a Hood website (do a search for Hood & SoHo - I don't have the address) that has all the info on the Hood and the Tamiya kit. They're working on an article on accurizing it, but there's already a lot more info there than you or I would probably ever need. I've built the Tamiya kit, and hope to do it again properly. In my opinion it is the best 1/700 scale injection molded kit ever released in terms of quality and accuracy, and I don't think I'm the only one with that opinion. And the size 15" is also good for display. But most of all, it just does justice to what was, frankly, a drop dead gorgeous ship if ever there was one. Ship modelers ought to be required to build this kit just to know what a pretty ship looked like - we'd never go back to dumpy, fat, flabby, love-handled US dreadnaughts! USS Yorktown The Yorktown kit is similar in layout & parts to the abysmal Revell 1/720 USS Intrepid except that its basic shape is accurate with one large exception - the bow. The bow is outfitted as a long-hull ship, but the length of a short-hull unit, so either way you build it, you need to seriously reshape the bow with putty & sheet plastic. See my book (unabashed plug!) for some drawings that will hopefully be useful - you can use them as a template for what the forecastle deck really should look like in sheet plastic, and shape the hull up to that point with putty. Take a look at the scans of the Yorktown kit's bow on the Warship site and you'll see the errors in the Lindberg kit immediately. Once you've fixed that, I'd get a copy of Larry Gertner's article on accurizing the Hasegawa Essex (reprinted in the Detail & Scale book on Lexington) to check on the accuracy of the island and other structures. Contact me for some scans of good Essex models - I have a port & starboard of the excellent Essex model at Pensacola that is a good blueprint for doing an eyeballed correct island. The kit is pretty toy-ish (some versions come motorized) so you don't need to get too carried away if you don't want to, although I do think the kit is capable of a good kitbashing to put next to a Revell angled deck Essex (it's the same scale - when I was a kid I put a Revell island on this kit and renumbered it CV-34 for the Oriskany (Marks-A-Lot on the flight deck - very accurate!), which was built as a straight-deck but modified hull & island ship. Just one thing you can do with this kit). It's just a matter of how much you want to do to it. It's sort of a poor man's large-scale Essex, but given the parts that are now available for this scale, it'd be a fun one to do. You could easily add a full hangar deck out of sheet plastic, and roller doors out of scribed plastic. The flight deck is actually not unpleasant to look at - I don't think it is as bad as Hasegawa's frankly, but again, the kit owes a lot to the Revell 1/720 scale kit, and I have fond memories of that beast, so that may be coloring my view a little. I just think it's be a nic "before and after" next to the Revell kit. By the way, the aircraft are horrific - you'll need to find some different ones if you choose to model it with aircraft. Hope the above helps. Please let me know what you do - these are two I'd really like to build again and I'd like to live vicariously through you, rather than run the risk of divorce if my wife catches me with a ship model again! Michael Smith Marshall, Texas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: "lcp9" Subject: Broadsides I recall reading that full broadsides were rarely done (usually just for photo ops), as it put too much strain on the ship's structure. What is probably more common is for the 2 out side guns in a triple turret to fire, then the middle gun after the fall of the first 2 shots has been spotted. This would give 4 & 5 gun salvos and keep the target under continuous fire. Was there room in the turret for the crew to be reloading while the adjacent gun recoiled by them? I don't know, but this was the common pratice in twin turrets. Which BTW is why most other countries favored 4 twin turrets, as it was felt to give a better balance of fire. The Pennsylvania & Nevada classes had the guns all mounted in a single sleeve, so they elevated together and were fired together. This was a weight saving measure and since the barrels were closer to each other it was found that the center shell was effected by the blast of the other 2 barrels. This was also the case in the Treaty cruisers. Delay fire circuits were developed to get around this problem. The other solution was to spread the barrels apart, this meant a broader turret, larger dia barbbet, and more weight. There is a discussion of this in U.S Cruisers,by N Freidman, and also in the preWWI Naval Annuals. (among a lot of other places) On the Dremel tool meltdown, I like Doc Wiesman's idea of a speed control. I've also found that the cordless Dremel tool (MinieMite) turns slow enough for this work without melting plastic & burning up cutters. It's also smaller & lighter so it's easier to use. David -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33) From: "Chris Christenson" Subject: Orange peel primer Michael Eisenstadt pointed out the problem of orange peel finish. I seem to recall from my memory an article in FineScale Modeler about painting gloss finishes on car models in three steps and one of the steps left an orange peel finish. This was then shot with another coat that smoothed it all out. Perhaps another light coat of paint in these areas would take care of the problem. Also I did not notice any advice on how to avoid the problem in the future. If this is an airbrush finish it sounds like a paint/thinner ratio change and air pressure change would avoid this. My airbrushing (mostly planes) always turns out like my wife's pasta sauce---same recipe but different consistency and taste every time guaranteed!! Any ideas? (the paint not the sauce!) Chris Christenson Ord, Nebraska -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34) From: b38cch@webtv.net (Clifford Holley) Subject: Re: 16" Broadside Sorry I have given a wrong address for the USS Pennsylvania. It should have been written as: http://www.inland.net/~ken/munro/bb-38.htm Again my apologies Cliff.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35) From: "Bob Pearson" Subject: Daddy, what did you do during the war? Alright Shane, You've ducked it long enough ..... . What was your first kit? Bob Hi Bob, What!!, me!!!, duck a question - never. Running for cover Shane - where's it's still bloody cold -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36) From: CHRIS DRAGE Subject: Warspite 1944 Hi Gang, After an absence of two weeks whilst enjoying a trip to Spain - I returned to find the usual frenetic activity had produced 14 SMML lists which required a whole evening to go through. Well done to our MISTRESS for keeping the Aussie end up whilst the 'Old Man' was incommunicado. Just typical - they lose a couple of rugby matches and the cricket and have to go into sulks for weeks on end...... :-). There are still questions to be answered regarding how Shane did that particular bit of his back in anyway.....Mistress Lorna??? Anyway here's my brief bit to add to Lorna's brilliant diversion of getting us all to scribble our annecdotes on modelling: I started modelling 1:700 ships in earnest just a few years ago. As a kid I started at 11 years with an Airfix Gloucester Gladiator. God, it looked a mess when I had finished. I remember building some of the Revell ship kits when I was a youngster - then I discovered GIRLS!! That put an end to modelling for a l-o-n-g time. I did build and still display a large scale HMS Victory based on Trafalgar when she sailed into the French/Spano fleet. Similarly I built and display HMS Endeavour on a morning in October 1769 depicting Nicholas Young sighting Young Nick's Head when Capt James Cook approached New Zealand for the first time. No more modelling for years until we had my son, Adam. I helped him build a number of 1:600 / 1:700 ship models when he was about 8 years old and got hooked myself when I realised that there was not much left preserved out there. Thus my dios began. The first two being the Capt. Class Destoyers HMSs Aylmer / Afleck depth charging and ramming respectively (see PSM). Then I tried resin and WEM's HMS Penelope. It just grew from that point - to a point where there is a ceasless thirst for reference material and improving modelling skills..... QUESTION: Apparently, according to our Alan (Ensign 4), HMS Warspite had four 20mm singles replaced with 4 x 20mm powered twins in June '44. But which were they? I assume that these would have been prior to D-Day as the AA armament would have been beefed up while she was a sitting target out there in the Channel. I can't find any suitable pics or drawings. Any chaps or chappesses able to help....? Incidentally, whilst in Gibralta recently, I discovered a photo shop selling prints of Gib to order. For £25 (£40 bartered down) I got my hands on a panaoramam of 4 large blow ups of the Naval base in 1937 with the Home Fleet and Med. Fleets combined. WOW! is the only suitable word - the detail is superb. Conact me off-line for the shop's address. Gib. is a terrific holiday location B.T.W. Well worth the visit. Regards, Chris He tao rakau e taea te karo, tena he tao kupa kaore e taea te karo.... (Te reo Maori) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Sanartjam@aol.com Subject: Re: Kit and Books for Sale Hi, I've got the following for sale: 1/200 Nichimo Akizuki: $79.00 plus shipping Marder, Arthur J., From Dreadnought to Scapa Flow, Vol. III, Jutland and After (1966): $39.00 plus shipping (no dj, ex-library, spine faded) Chalmers, The Life and Letters of David Beatty (1951): $19.00 plus shipping (has dj) The Aircraft Yearbook for 1939: $19.00 (ex-library) The Aircraft Yearbook for 1944: $19.00 (ex-library) His Majesty's Submarines (HMSO 1945): $19.00 (64pp, paper covers) Thanks, Art Nicholson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume