Subject: SMML20/09/99VOL674 Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 00:37:58 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: AA gun location on U-47 2: Re: PE Shiny brass solution 3: Hurricane Floyd 4: Re: Grey or Gray? 5: Revell Olympia 6: Re: Grey or Gray? 7: Re: Painting photo etch parts 8: Re: ANATOMY LESSON 9: Re: Grey or Gray 10: Nagato rudders info 11: New French Magazine 12: Re: gray and grey 13: Gray or Grey 14: Passenger Lists - 1912 15: Re: BWN USS Massachusetts 16: Ideas 17: Painting photo etch -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Jean-Cyrille WAAG" Subject: Re: AA gun location on U-47 Hello all, On U-47 the AA gun was located on main deck well aft of conning tower. Sources are : - U-Boote 1939-1945 ( Dallies-Labourdette ) - Kriegsmarine 1939-1945 ( Buffetaut ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: PE Shiny brass solution I want to mention one more thing about flaking paint from photo etched parts. As I mentioned in my last post, it's best to touch up any flaking paint on the PE parts as you go. That way you're sure to get them all. If you wait until the entire model is finished to touch up, you will be forever seeing shiny spots when the room light hits them just right. As a final step on my models I spray the entire model with a clear flat coat. While brass showing through will still be there, the flat coat will stop the super shiny refection caused by room light. The flat coat also makes shiny super glue disappear as well as removing shiny areas from the rigging (if you use nylon thread). Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Hurricane Floyd Hello All - Back home catching up on several day's worth of SMML. The link to the Polish Navy posted by Bob Steinbrunn was particularly awesome. FYI, the frigate USS Clark (FFG 11), currently finishing a Great Lakes cruise, is supposed to be transferred to the Polish Navy next year. I figured a week of active duty would be boring. Didn't plan on Hurricane Floyd making an appearance. We sortied just about every ship that could get underway and emptied the piers at Mayport, Norfolk, Kings Bay and Little Creek (80+ ships). That interrupted all plans for deploying the JFK CVBG and Bataan ARG. After the storm passed it was time to clean up the mess and coordinate search and rescue ops. When I left it looked as if the next storm of the season, Hurricane Gert, was headed straight at the Theodore Roosevelt CVBG as it was coming back from the Med. So it was anything but boring! : ) Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Michael C. Smith" Subject: Re: Grey or Gray? I need the answer to this as well - I just named my son Grayson and I might need to change the spelling! Michael Smith Marshall, Texas P.S. I tried Bluford Grayson so he'd be named after my favorite color - Blue Gray (FS 35164) but my wife put her foot down. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Revell Olympia Ken asked: >> Little while ago a I put out an informal request for opinions on the Revell USS Olympia. Either it got lost or I missed any responses, so I thought I'd try again. << I built the kit about 5 years ago after I found one in the back of a dusty little hobby shop on Long Island. I haven't seen the reissue yet, but based on past experience, I doubt if there will be any sort of refinement of the old molds. The biggest problem I noted was the poor fit of the various deck sections. By the time I'd filled and sanded all the gaps (some were quite noticeable), there was no way to do much about the simulated wood planking on the deck: nothing lined up right. I'd recommend Evergreen scribed styrene or trying one of Rusty's methods for painting wood decks to look like the real thing. I also chose to sand down the millions of hull rivets that appeared to be out of scale. Having said that, I think the new photoetched brass would go a long way in enhancing this model. The Revell kit was about 500% better than the Lindberg kit in almost the same scale. Mike L Alexandria, VA USA PS - I prime brass and steel PE with Floquil Gray Railroad Primer and never have a problem with flaking paint. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "J. London" Subject: Re: Grey or Gray? They both mean the same. "Grey" is generally used in Britain and Commonwealth countries while "gray" is more common in the States. Mike London -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Painting photo etch parts >> Sorry, there's nothing you can do about it. Brass and stainless steel are extremely smooth with almost no "tooth" for the paint to adhere to. Moreover, it would be impossible to sand the detail for obvious reasons. << Loren recommends essentially a super cleaning to degrease using MEK or lacquer thinner, however the real problem is as you say the shininess or to put it another way the fine finish on the metal. Has anyone tried a _Brief_ acid or etchant bath prior to painting to matte the surface and provide more tooth for the paint to adhere to?? Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Erwin Van Deynze Subject: Re: ANATOMY LESSON >> had its way, however, as Conway Maritime Press is no more. Their backlist has been bought up by another publisher, but I'm told that publisher will not be issuing new naval books in the Anatomy or others of Conway's fine series, for quite some time, if ever. << My god, just as I was contemplating enlarging my book-case, for the first time in years I'm a bit in the financial possibility to buy a couple 'anatomy' books... Does anybody know what's the status on Model Shipwright. I've been subscribed for more than ten years now, and I would hate it to see it go, I find it the best modelling magazine on the market... Anybody any idea ? Also what will happen with the existing subscriptions ? Erwin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Grey or Gray I wondered when this one would rear its head. According to Webster, the words are interchangeable, with "gray" being the preferred spelling. The definition for both is an achromatic color of any lightness between the extremes of white and black. So, gray is grey is gray. That said, I remember being told years ago (no comments about years, Caroline!) that the difference was that "gray" tended toward the blue, while "grey" tended toward the green. I have no idea who told me that, or where I might have read it (and no comments about memory, either!). John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Suzanne Bolton" Subject: Nagato rudders info Hi, I've been looking through everything I can find on Nagato and I think she had two rudders.Most info shows no stern views of any help except the following: 1 Tamiya Random Japanese Warship Details Vol 2 page 8 shows the Mutsu. 2 Fuji Art's step by step build your own Nagato 3 Gakken books No. 15 on the Nagato 4 Shizuo Fukui Battleships and Battlecruisers page 365 shows the Mutsu with what looks like the entry for the rudder shaft just below the draft figures. All the above show two rudders which seem likely in my opinion as all the Japanese battleships of this era had two rudders. Hope this helps. Steve. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "larsenal" Subject: New French Magazine About the new magazine that is expected to appear at the end of the year, as far as I know the contents will be only in French. The emphasis will be on photographs, the article on the Dutch Navy in 1939 seems very promising in this sense. An important modeling section is also planned with about 10 pages ! As soon as I can I'll try to get a copy and send one to Shane for an objective comment Best regards, Jacques Druel L'Arsenal -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: gray and grey Rusty, I think you will find out that the real difference between GRAY and GREY is the same as the difference in how you like your beer, cold or warm. In other words it's GRAY on this side of the Atlantic and GREY on the other. (for our European friends, it's the other way around). Cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Suvoroff@aol.com Subject: Gray or Grey >> Is this true, or some bogus crap the professor was shoveling? << Bogus crap. Gray and grey are simply variant spellings. Yours, James D. Gray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Passenger Lists - 1912 Hi gang, Anyone got any good leads for passenger lists for the following? White Star Line, April 1912 Carpathia & Arabic Not sure where ships departed from, probably Queenstown (Cobh), arrived at Boston. G-Grandpa is turning 94, came across on Arabic (he thinks), his future wife on the Carpathia. Thought it would be a neat B-day gift to have a framed copy... Jeff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: John Sheridan Subject: Re: BWN USS Massachusetts >> I saw this beauty just after it was added to the 1/350 display aboard the Salem. It is excellent. Clearly shows the the effort that was put into it. Nice work John. << Thank-you for the kind words. That kit was quite the project but it does pay-off in the end if done right. I highly recommend the kit to anyone who enjoys building battleships in 1/350th. I cannot wait to add the Classic Warships 1/350th Scale USS North Carolina and Tamiya USS Missouri to the collection in order to complete the fast battleship display. Then onto the 1/350th Cruiser Display........and Destroyer Display.............. Back to the modeling bench! John Sheridan What I do to Spammers: http://microscale.com/images/N2.jpg I am not a Member of the Lumber Cartel (tinlc) and I am not Unit #631 Last last place on earth I would look for the Lumber Cartel(tm) is http://come.to/the.lumber.cartel -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Ideas Well, since it seem between work and painting the only model enjoyment is reading shipmodels everyday - usually the first thing I do in the morning - I thought I would pass on some ideas - and forgive me if they have already been brought up. Has anyone ever thought of building Revell's hospital ship HAVEN as a navy transport as I believe that is what she was modified from if my memory serves me right. Probably only need a few modifications and the removal of the helicopter deck aft. Would like to get your opinions. Also I think a lot of modelers that like to do a lot of weathering should consider doing a ship in "mothballs" - I think a perfect candidate would be the Escort BUCKLEY. Most of them sat in mothballs so long that outwardly the looked awful in some cases the were almost completely rust color, or depending upon where they were stored they were almost bleached white (as in the case of the CLG, USS OKLAHOMA CITY). No two ever seemed the same no matter what class they were, missing radar, guns, part cut off or out in many cases and just left that way - and if they were cared for, they would have a lot of splotches of "Red Lead", - railings and rigging usually in bad shape also. Well, what do you think? Anyone want to try it Micheal Donegan - Naval & Aviation Artist http://members.aol.com/NAVYDAZE/INDEX.HTML -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Martin Short" Subject: Painting photo etch One method that works for me is; firstly clean as Loren suggests, and then prime using a diluted single pack Automotive etch primer. These are typically phenolic alcohol/acetone based and are easy to thin. The etchant is typically phosphoric acid, so it bites on well. Trick is keeping it thin so it bends when folded. Mist it on at low air pressure.Top coats well with typical enamel model paints (hate acrylics so haven't tried them), provided you do it within a week otherwise the primer tends to harden too much and adhesion is poor. I can't speak for the longevity of the system as up until recently it all went inside cockpits!. Now, back to the Airfix Warspite, plus WEM PE.... cheers, Martin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume