Subject SMML01/10/99VOL685 Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 00:45:12 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Casablanca Class CVE 2: Alps and Decals 3: Decals 4: Bilge pump for 1/200 Nichimo Yamato 5: Ships call signs 6: Re: Gotta have the Alps 7: Russian colours 1904/05 8: Re: Decal Article 9: Re: World War II AA Armament 10: Camo, Essexes, and the Russian fleet 11: Re: Dazzle Camoflage 12: Dazzle Camouflage 13: Re: Ship Call Signs 14: Re: Decal article 15: Book reprinted 16: AVT-16 17: Russian Colours 1904/05 18: Re: Decal article 19: Re: Alaska Kits 20: Re: diy decals 21: JAPANESE CRUISER ARMAMENT 22: Conversion for the part numbers on the GMM Bismarck 23: Soviet Destroyer Leader TASHKENT-what color? 24: Re: Modeling Projects 25: USS California 26: Any plans for... 27: Fujimi USS Lexington CV2 28: Re: Transports -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Trivia #6 2: CVT-16 USS Lexington 3: Request for materials: USCG and War Tugs 4: Revell Lexington PE brass detail set 5: FS: Aircraft Carriers by Roger Chesenau 6: IPMS-USA 1999 Winners photos are up! 7: Pacific Front Info -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Ernst-Bernhard Kayser Subject: Re: Casablanca Class CVE To the guy who needed a reference for Casablance class escort carriers (sorry I forgot your name): I just rememered that the USS Gambier Bay was a Casablanca class CVE. Al Ross wrote an excellent book on this ship aptly named: "The Escort Carrier Gambier Bay". Besides a brief text section there is a photo section with plenty of pictures of Gambier Bay and some of her sisters as well as a drawings section covering everything: lines, elevations, details (e.g. guns, arrestor gear, railing fittings, ...), camo patterns, aircraft and so on and so forth. I guess it contains all you need to build a good Casablanca class CVE. Unfortunately the book is out of print. Thus try to get it at the library (inter library loan, if you live in a place like I do) or look for a used copy. My favourite place to search for maritime out-of-print books is: http://www.bookfinder.com Happy modelling Bernhard -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "James M. Pasquill, II" Subject: Alps and Decals >> t seems like there is no cost effectiveness here. In addition there are suggestions for scanners, fonts, and drawing programs ($100 - $1000). That's a lot of cash when you want a couple of special decals occasionally. Apparently Alps provided a printer free for the article development. What about the rest of the model builders who have to lay out money to do the same thing? What are the alternatives? The blank decal material you can purchase is made for specific methods - are theses only for an Alps? What about my HP 2000 color jet pro series? << Yes there is a cheaper way. Find someone on this list or another similar list to print them for you on their Alps. Ink Jet printers do not have waterproof ink. Very messy... Jim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Doremus, Mark" Subject: Decals I agree with Gene, the kind of money for printers, scanners and software is awfully steep if you just want to do a one up set of decals for a single project. Are there any other printers (I doubt it) that would work, maybe one I already have? Are there sources on this list or on another list that could make one ups if I found reliable artwork? Mark Eden Prairie, MN where fall is arriving with a vengeance. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Bishop, Paul" Subject: Bilge pump for 1/200 Nichimo Yamato I have been thinking about using a small 6 or 12 v water pump in my 1/200 scale rc model of the Yamato to simulate the bilge pumps. I can't find a source for a water pump this small. Has anyone tried this, or heard of anyone trying this. I would appreciate any and all comments and suggestions. Thanks, Paul -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: DRPREUL@aol.com Subject: Ships call signs I should be getting a list of the majority of the ships call signs in the next couple of days. Once I have it ,if any one would like to get a copy please let me know. Call signs are a great touch of color on any ship. Any additional color on a ship is always welcomed. Happy modeling, J&D Productions........ DON -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Gotta have the Alps >> Isn't there a comparable way to do this without buying another printer (Alps) for a few occasional decals? << No. The what makes the Alps printer produce such super high resolution decals is that it doesn't use ink like most ink jet printers do. The ink either beads up on the decal film or is very translucent. When I say high resolution, I looked at Duane ( I hope that how it's spelled) Fowler's 1/700 Fletcher anti skid walkway decals I could make out the individual stars on the American flag!! It doesn't get any better than that. If you have a subject you need that's not available, ask Duane about possibly making you one. He subscribes to this list. Of course I'm not speaking for him, that's only a suggestion. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: Russian colours 1904/05 Colin: There's a Russian language website with many photos/pictures of the Russian fleet from current time (1996 Navy Day parade) back to the days of Peter the Great. Its at: http://www.corbina.ru/~greenwar/flot/fotos.htm Most of the photos have a date associated. The photos from this period are, of course black & white, but I've found a few colored postcards from the Russo-Japanese war period while I've stumbled through this site. They might give you a clue to the colors. Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: Decal Article Gene Larson writes: >> What about the rest of the model builders who have to lay out money to do the same thing? What are the alternatives? << One alternative would be to contact someone who has already laid out the money for the system, and offer them a few bucks to do the printing for you. There is a mailing list dedicated to the use of ALPS printers for decals (On the Onelist site); I am sure you could find someone to do the actual printing for you. Finding someone to draw up the design using expensive software would be harder, though. Another alternative would be to purchase a printer through your local modeling club - be it IPMS or other. The cost of the printer, spread out among a dozen or more people, would not be excessive. Of course, you would have to determine who gets to keep it at the house and play with it! Kurt Greiner SeaPhoto Maritime Photography -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Jonathan Parshall Subject: Re: World War II AA Armament >> Is there a study of the increase of effectiveness in our 5"/38 with the change of directors and or the proximity fuses. I understand the 4.5 was better than the 5.25 was it mechanical, mobility, rate of fire, shell, all the above or other things? The Jap. 5" was good but how was its kill rate vs our 5"/38? Same type of questions about the auto. weapons. << Proximity fuzing initially increased shell effectiveness over a manually fuzed 5"/38 shell by a factor of three, and late-war shells were between five and six times as effective. However, they were still relatively scarce even at the end of the war. I can't remeber the exact figures, but I don't think that VT fuzing was used in more than 25-30% of the shots fired, even at the end of the war. As far as the British AA weapons are concerned, I don't have exact info handy to hand as I sit in a consultant's cubicle in Boise, Idaho, far, far from home, *but* I do know the 5.25" weapon had a lower ROF than optimal because it was still hand-loaded, and the shell weight was 80 pounds (as opposed to 55 pounds for the 5"/38). That's hard on gun crews, and they can't maintain a good sustained rate. Directors are very important, of course, and the U.S. was miles ahead of anybody else in this regard with the radar-equipped Mk 37. Even the Brits admitted that the Mk 37 utterly outclassed any director they had. The Japanese Type 94 Hoiban HA system was way behind the Allied systems. It was heavy, had many manual inputs, took between 10-20 seconds to generate an initial solution, and was constrained in terms of target speed inputs. Not a good system. The Japanese 5" gun itself was a good weapon (superior to the U.S. weapon in some respects), but a good gun is useless if you can't the target. As far as light AA is concerned, of course, the 40mm Bofors was indisputably the best weapon of the war--great sustained ROF, good ballistic properties and range, and nice hitting power. None of the other prevalent Axis or Allied weapons could hold a candle to it. (An indication of its worth is that when even a single-barreled Bofors would be emplaced on a British ship in the 1941-43 timeframe, such as on a cruiser, that one weapon would typically get a dedicated director for fire control. One decent Army-style single-barreled Bofors was worthh at least a quad Pom Pom). The Germans did make one decent 37mm mount *but* the one they used most often aboard ship had a very low rate of fire. The Japanese 25mm was a decent weapon, but it was plagued by a very low rate of fire, since it was fed from a box magazine with only 15 rounds, so you had to change it frequently. Lame. As a result, it's practical ROF was lower than the Bofors, and it had a much lighter shell to boot. The Japanese were therefore seriously hampered by not having a good 37mm or 40mm AA weapon. For a decent general discussion of these issues, see my Best Battleship Comparison on my Web site, at: http://www.skypoint.com/members/jbp/baddest.htm Cheers, jon parshall- Imperial Japanese Navy Homepage http://www.skypoint.com/members/jbp/kaigun.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Steven P. Allen" Subject: Camo, Essexes, and the Russian fleet Three for the price of one (you pay nothing and get what you pay for;-)): There was at least one example of ship camo working in the PTO during WWII: The Battle off Samar. Kurita mistook the CVEs for CVs, the Fletcher-class DDs for Baltimore-class CAs, and the DEs for Fletcher-class DDs. The schemes were sufficiently good at breaking up the outlines (combined, of course, with bad intel and shattered nerves) that the Japanese thought they were fighting an equal or superior force throughout the whole encounter. This is also a testiment to the daring, skill, and tenacity of the Taffy crews, too, of course. Scale Shipyard will sell most of what is needed to do WWII Essexes--long hull and short--in 1/96 scale. Expect a big model and a BIG bill. :-) As for the color of the Russian ships: wasn't that blackish/brown color just rust covered with coal smoke? (with appologies to fans of the Tsar's navy) Steve Allen -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: Re: Dazzle Camoflage Norm: The purpose of dazzle camoflage can be best described as providing course and range deception. Before the days of radar range-finding and automatic fire control systems, data had to be visually determined. A submarine officer looking through a periscope had just a few seconds to look at a target and guess range, speed, & angle-on-the-bow (AOB). Several observations would allow course, speed, range-rate, etc to be determined or refined. The firing point data would either be calculated in the skipper's head or fed into a primative analog computer (TDC). Dazzle camoflage was designed to break-up the vertical lines that the optical stadimeters would use to determine range. (Sort of like your camera when you get the two images to line up in the viewfinder). You have 15 seconds ... Are you looking at the bow or at the stern? Are you looking exactly at the beam? Quick, whats the AOB? How many periscope reticle graduation marks long is the ship? Quick, whats the answer? How far back is the bow wave - thats a speed guess? Here comes that depth charge! Down periscope, take her deep! If you can force the viewer to be a 1000 yards off in his range guestimate or 15 degrees off in AOB, then the solution will not converge or will converge slowly ... resulting in no attack or an unsuccessful attack. Surface engagements in the pre-radar days are similar. Break up the vertical edges used in stadimeter ranging. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it! Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Norman Samish Subject: Dazzle Camouflage To all those who replied to my questions about the purpose and history of dazzle camouflage, particularly: Bob Santos John Snyder Duane Fowler Chris Langtree Mark Shannon Jeff Herne Shane James Kloek - Your knowledge is impressive and gratifying. I now feel as though I know something about it. Thanks very much. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "singlar@pop.ma.ultranet.com" Subject: Re: Ship Call Signs >> The call sign thread for the Lex reminded me of a question; Is there a reference that has these codes? I'm trying to find the call sign for the USS Johnston DD-55 so I can mount the flags for a little color. << Mark, I have been trying to find a site for DD Call signs, call letters, Ship and squadron logos. The only place close to providing this information is the Tin Can Sailor's Assoc. (http://www.destroyers.com [could be .org]) They do have some of the info you are looking for. regards, Steve Singlar Pelham, NH -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Al Superczynski Subject: Re: Decal article On Fri, 01 Oct 1999 00:06:40 +1000, Gene Larson wrote: >> ...isn't there a comparable way to do this without buying another printer (Alps) for a few occasional decals? I can see the justification if you need decals daily, or weekly perhaps. It seems like there is no cost effectiveness here. In addition there are suggestions for scanners, fonts, and drawing programs ($100 - $1000). That's a lot of cash when you want a couple of special decals occasionally. << Well, all those items would be needed to create the artwork no matter what one uses to actually print decals. Also, I realize that $150 isn't exactly chump change, but it's pretty cheap & ALPS is selling refurbished MD-1000s for that price on their website right now. >> What are the alternatives? The blank decal material you can purchase is made for specific methods - are theses only for an Alps? What about my HP 2000 color jet pro series? << Decal paper will work with laser printers but they don't do white or metallics. Same problem if one takes the artwork to Kinko's or similar & has it photocopied on decal paper. Inkjet printers usually won't work since the ink tends to bead up on decal paper. There are also individuals with ALPS printers that will produce custom decals for a modest fee. FWIW, Al http://www.up-link.net/~modeleral -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: James Corley Subject: Book reprinted Apparently I had missed the announcement from USNI, but the following books have been reprinted: US Submarine Operations in WW2 US Destroyer Operations in WW2 These books were both present at the symposium yesterday, both were $48 or so! BTW, some interesting stuff is about to make its appearance in the near future (unless Clinton & his gang can screw it up!) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: James Corley Subject: AVT-16 >> Revell's USS Lexington was not a WWII carrier as you reference. This 1957 kit represents the Lex in her post 1950's configuration and included an angle flight deck and most other retrofits that post-war Essex class carriers received (SCB-127 program). The kit also comes with T28's, S2's, T2's, F4's, and UH1's. Although out of production, you can still find them at swaps and on Ebay (I bought 2 there). A good reference book to look for is "The USS Lexingtons CV2 and CV16, the Lady Lex and the Blue Ghost", author unknown. Good photos in that book. << The kit is aslo available via mail order form the LEXINGTON museum....lost their number, maybe somebody could give it out. I got 6 about 2 years ago for $15 each. The kit represtnes the ship in her SCB-27C appearance, and she was modernized to the SCB-125 standrard over a series of refits in the 70s. By the time she retired, the ship was advanced well past that standard into what I've heard called the SCB-125A, although the ship was never officially given this design designation. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Colin Troup Subject: Russian Colours 1904/05 Chuck, Falk Thanks, guys. It was the colour variously described as khaki, cinnamon brown, blackish brown and olive grey that I was interested in. Sounds like (a) I've got a range to choose from, and (b) no-one will be able to contradict me! Thanks for the other details too. Just to round off the picture, I assume the decks would be a mix of natural wood and brownish linoleum or equivalent, but again if anyone knows otherwise I'd be glad to hear it. Colin Troup -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Sheridan John Contr 66 ABW/SC Subject: Re: Decal article >> What are the alternatives? The blank decal material you can purchase is made for specific methods - are theses only for an Alps? What about my HP 2000 color jet pro series? << Our decal film will only work with non-water soluable inks (no inkjets!). It will work fine with laser, dye sublimination, and wax transfer printers. Someone does make a decal film for inkjets but the quality of the final output is not the greatest. What can you do ? The best advice I can offer is to talk to someone who does own a ALPS printer. Another option is to look in the back of the model magazines; there are small-run decal makers out there who can do the work for you at a reasonable cost. John Sheridan @ Microscale Decals http://www.microscale.com If I'm talking Decals, then I'm talking for Microscale, Otherwise I am speaking for myself. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Sheridan John Contr 66 ABW/SC Subject: Re: Alaska Kits >> At the risk of starting a battle, any opinions as to which of the 2 Alaska 1/350 kits is the better one?? << I have not seen the Commanders USS Alaska so I cannot comment. But I am working on the Classic Warships USN Alaska kit right now. Suffice to say; it is truely a stunning kit! If anyone wants to see the parts, here's the URL: http://www.classicwarships.simplenet.com/uss25.htm John Sheridan @ Microscale Decals http://www.microscale.com If I'm talking Decals, then I'm talking for Microscale, Otherwise I am speaking for myself. What I do to Spammers: http://microscale.com/images/N2.jpg I am not a Member of the Lumber Cartel (tinlc) and I am not Unit #631 Fight Spam! Join CAUCE! http://www.cauce.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: diy decals >> What are the alternatives? The blank decal material you can purchase is made for specific methods - are theses only for an Alps? What about my HP 2000 color jet pro series? << The real issue here is that the ALPs printers are not ink jets, they are dye sub type and/or thermal transfer printers. One of the major problems with ink jets is that the ink doesn't properly adhere to the decal film. A color laser or color photocopier may work. Also perhaps a paint jet like the old HD 1200 might work. Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Dave Baker Subject: JAPANESE CRUISER ARMAMENT For those interested in modelling Japanese cruisers during WW II, the AA armament fit at any given time is often hard to determine. The marvelous Lacroix/Wells book provides the necessary information, but it is interwoven in the text. The next issue of Larry Bond's Harpoon SITREP newsletter will have a very helpful article that organizes all of the armament suite data in Lacroix/Wells on a ship-by-ship basis. Should be a big help and must have taken quite a bit of time. SITREP is aimed at the naval wargamers, but it often contains information useful to modelers, especially those working in the smaller scales such as 1: 1200 and 1:2400 (and now, to my horror, even smaller!). Best/Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: kenny_II Subject: Conversion for the part numbers on the GMM Bismarck John, You have asked the exact question I was getting ready to e-mail Loren about, so I look forward to the answers. I was just hoping it would fit my Academy Bismarck kit, having the right numbers seems almost too easy.... About the other question, you graduate with a EE degree and take the C in TD with a smile. ;-) Tim Maleck Go Boilers! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Minadmiral@aol.com Subject: Soviet Destroyer Leader TASHKENT-what color? Hi All; During WWII the Soviet navy Destroyer Leader TASHKENT was known as the "blue cruiser". Supposedly he was painted a "sky blue". Anyone have any more exact data on the color? Perhaps a suggestion for a Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, or ? color to use? And while I have your attention. Is there ONE (hopefully not too expensive) book showing all the different USN WWII color patterns? Measure 21 and so on. Had to do some 1 on 1 modelling on a Chevy starter this month so I`m a little short. Thanks Chuck Duggie Modeller, Wargamer, and Warship Enthusiest -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Modeling Projects >> I want to build some "multi ship displays", all combining CV's or CVL's with their respective escorts. My main problem is to find out a realistic combination of ships for one of my four projects. Basically, I try to combine ships which could be found together at some significant point of time; I hate the idea of accidentally combining (say) an Atlantic Fleet destroyer with an Pacific carrier. << I don't know if this will help much or not, but check out.. http://freeweb.coco.cz/morio/pacific/ I *believe* this is the site I found that has an extensive listing that outlined (in very brief terms) which ships served with the various task forces and fleets during WWII in the Pacific. http://www.uss-salem.org/danfs/ This site contains brief service histories of major USN vessels. Not very helpful for modern day ships, but great for WWII ones. It can be time consuming ploughing through all the service histories, but they do sometimes list what other ships a particular ship may have served with at a given point in time. Eh, if nothing else it's a start. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: USS California Hey S'guys! I'm a newby to the list (joined last night). It's been many years now since I built a warship model (a Tamiya 1/700 Yamato back in HS c1982), but the desire is still there. I've been collecting kits for years now. Most of these are older Revell kits (aren't those going to be delightful to build - gag!), but included among those are a Hasegawa 1/450 Yamato and a DML 1/700 USS San Diego. The Yamato was the last one I worked on (about ten years ago - painting the decks), but I'm already planning on stripping the paint and starting over using some of the nifty techniques I've learned of over the last three years. My next project though is looking to break my bank account. I've been wanting a model of the USS California since I started HS. As such, I've been eyeing some of the new resin-multimedia kits that have been coming out over the last few years. I'd like a very large kit of the ship (say 1/196th scale - I'm still going ga-ga over the two Tennesees in FSM 2/98)), but I consider myself a bit too rusty and inexperienced to dive head first into a scratchbuilding project of that magnatude (at least for the time being). That being the case, I'm seriously considering the new Iron Shipwright 1/350 Tennessee (c1944). Okay, it's $375 (I've obviously lost my sanity to consider that price tag + all the extra add on's needed to properly fit it out), but the second I saw it my brain automatically switched into drool mode. For a short period I considered resisting temptation and going for the more reasonably priced (and sized) Classic Warships 1/700 Tennessee 1944 kit, but I found myself reverting back to the tendency inherent in most six year olds "But Mamma, I want the BIG one!" Alas, it goes back to the old adage; the only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys. But if my Mamma knew I was getting ready to drop nearly $400 on a model she would throttle me! So hopefully (barring no major real life calamities), paycheck after next Iron Shipwright is going to get a phone call. I must say I've enjoyed the discussions about the razzle-dazzle camo schemes because I'm wanting to build this kit up in the Measure 21 make up job the Prune Barge wore at Suragao Strait in 1944. The only down side to this is that I'd like to try the technique of using real wood for the decking (guess that'll have to wait for the 1941 version of the ship with the Measure 1 camo scheme - if I can ever find one when I have money again that is). Mind you, this is my first attempt at *anything* like this. I've never attempted a razzle dazzle scheme, nor have I ever worked with multimedia, or a super-high detail kit. All I can say is that my paitence and nit-pickyness has grown to the point where I *think* I can attempt something like this (opposed to the slap-dash methods I used in high school). The question I'd like to pose to this crowd is, has anyone here had any experience with this particular kit yet? I've already got one book on the ship (Myron J. Smith's Golden State Battlewagon), and I've grabbed every pic I could find on the net for use as reference (and hopefully for a webpage dedicated to the old Prune Barge in the future). However, I'm open to any suggestions I can get. Another kit I'd like to get is the Iron Shipwright USS Nashville. I've always been fond of the Brooklyns. TBK, I'd rather find a 1/350th Helena, but until one comes about the Nashville will have to suffice. However, for that one I'd prefer use a "what if" approach and build it to resemble the USS Savannah after she was rebuilt following the damage sustained at Salerno. The level of scratchbuilding to make the extra parts is simply beyond my ability right now, but it's something I'd sure like too try. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Any plans for... Curiosity here. Has there been any plans (or thoughts) of producing a model of the USS Worchester (CL-144)? Historically, I admit it doesn't rate, but from the perspective of looks it's always knocked my socks off. Similarly, does anyone know if anyone produces weapon sets (other than 20mm) one could use to modify existing kits? As I aluded to earlier, I've thought about building a number of non-historically-correct "what if" ships. Most of these would require a quantity of USN 3"/50 Mk 33/34 weapon mounts to replace the 40mm Bofors included in the WWII kits. I've seen these included in the 1/350th scale Salem Kit, but, jeeze, I'd hate to have to buy such an expensive kit just to get those parts.. Likewise, does anyone produce good quality OS2U Kingfishers or SC Seahawks for 1/350th scale WWII ships. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Rod Dauteuil Subject: Fujimi USS Lexington CV2 I'm building the Fujimi USS Lexington 1/700 W/L kit and was wondering if anybody knows the exact time this model represents. A picture on p.15 of Squadron/Signal "Aircraft Carriers in Action, pt. 1" shows the Lex in October, 1941. The model seems to have the same amenities as are in the picture (widened bow, gun galleries along the stack, and the 8" guns fore and aft of the island and stack), except that the model does not have the quad mounts on the 8" guns, as the photo's caption states. I would guess that the model's era is around summer, 1941, because by the time of Coral Sea, the 8" guns had been removed, and the false bow wake had been painted over. I've painted the SBD's and F4F's silver with yellow wings and red carrier ID markings. Is this appropriate? Any help would be appreciated. Rod. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: THENRYS@aol.com Subject: Re: Transports Duane Fowler wrote : >> Transports would sometimes paint the outlines of destroyers on their sides to make them seem more protected. << Now I would love to see a picture of this. That might even get me to build something without (big) guns on it. Todd Henry -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Trivia #6 Question #6: What Vessel am I??? (potential 4 point question) In 1914 I was part of the Grand Fleet. I took participated in the following actions: 1914, Heligoland 1915 Dogger Bank 1916 Jutland I served as the Flagship for the 2nd Light Cruiser Squadron. I also have the distinction of sinking the first German U-boat of WW1. *****I am HMS Birmingham***** Bonus question #1: Which U-boat did I sink, and on what date? *****I sank U-15 on 8/9/14***** Bonus question #2: One of my sisters was not so lucky, she was sunk by a U-boat in the North Sea AFTER Jutland. Who was my sister? *****HMS Nottingham***** Bonus #3: Ironically, the sister ship of the U-boat I sank, sank my sister. What U-boat sank my sister? *****U-52***** In writing the question, I looked at 3 of my sources, then grabbed the info from the last source after all 3 agreed. Little did know, nor did I pick it up, but the last of my sources misprinted U-15 as U-51. U-51 and U-52 were sisters, U-15 and U-51 were obviously not. Correct responses were from (damn near everybody!!): 4 points: technoinfidel@webtv.net dhjonespsm@juno.com douglas.j.martin@email.msn.com sanartjam@aol.com sarup@intnet.mu YHASIO@aol.com raeplus@s-direktnet.de Chris.Herron@PSS.Boeing.com Geoff-Smith@cwcom.net KHgold@wman.com 2 points richa5011@aol.com The standings through 5 rounds: douglas.j.martin@email.msn.com - 12 points richa5011@aol.com - 9 points sarup@intnet.mu.com - 9 points sanartjam@aol.com - 9 points YHSAIO@aol.com - 8pts. technoinfidel@webtv.net - 8pts. dhjonespsm@juno.com - 8pts. raeplus@s-direktnet.de - 8pts. Christopher.Herron@PSS.Boeing.com - 5pt. jmalondon@home.com - 4pts. Geoff-smith@cwcom.net - 4pts. KHgold@wman.com - 4pts. cjmhughes@btinternet.com - 4pts. jdcorley@earthlink.net - 4pts. johnsnyder@macnexus.org - 4pts. volker.haeuser@main-rheiner.de - 4pts. jjrule@idirect.com - 4pts. jefcat@msn.com - 4pts. jecham3981@aol.com - 4pts. romoh@singular.gr - 4pts. jpb@skynet.be - 3pts. brianselzer@bc.sympatico.ca - 3pts. minadmiral@aol.com - 3pts. spallen@wavecomputers.net - 2pts. jowfx@cs.com - 2pts. john.sutherland@amcom.co.nz - 2pts. THenrys@aol.com - 2pts. mike.leonard@erols.com - 1pt. bbullock@thegrid.net - 1pt. Question #7: (they will be getting tougher from here on out) Potential 4 points: I was launched in November of 1882, and my sister and I were the only vessels of this type to be built by our country, even to this day. I was present at the Battle of Yalu in 1894, but was captured by the enemy one year later. I was scrapped in 1914. What vessel am I? Bonus #1: Who was my sister? Bonus #2: My armament consisted of ______________ and ______________. Bonus #3: I displaced ________________ tons. GOOD LUCK! email all replies to: mailto:jherne@hotmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: CVT-16 USS Lexington Yes that ship is at The Naval Base Mod. American Carrier page at: http://www.modelshipbuilding.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Victor Baca" Subject: Request for materials: USCG and War Tugs First off--thanks to all fellow SMML members who are contacting us for subscriptions to Maritime Modeler magazine. It's on track for 1st issue in January 2000. Call (800) 810-7660 for bi-monthly subscription info. We are in need of articles discussing all aspects of U.S. Coast Guard and Revenue Marine models. Also want to do something on WAR TUGS: ATF, ATR, ST, LT, YTM, YTL, WYTM, WYTL of WWII. Anyone out there working on these types of subjects? Got plans? Got pix? Need anything I can get my hands on such as model shots (prefer color slide for color repro), black and white official photos, etc. I'd also like to run an article on USN auxiliaries-any scale plastic, resin or scratchbuilt. Reply via e-mail to vbaca@gte.net or victorbaca@excite.com. GTE is, as usual, replete with tech diffucilties in mail server, so I will answer via excite. E-mail reception is good on either, though. If you have info that you'd like to share with other modelers such as pix, plans, models but do not have time to write--we can assemble the material and do the writing job. Won't pay as well because we have to do a lot of the writing, but we will send you some "modeling money" for your efforts and return any historical material at your request. Modelers, authors and draftsmen submitting features with good slides, B/W prints and/or drawings will be paid well (30-60 days after publication). E-mail me for a writer's guide. Best Regards, Victor Baca, Editor Maritime Modeler Magazine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Loren Perry Subject: Revell Lexington PE brass detail set Gold Medal Models offers its No. 540-6 etched brass detail set ($40 plus postage) for all Revell carriers in and around 1/540 scale. This includes numerous special parts for the Revell Lexington kit as well as others in the class. It can also be used with Lindberg's 1/525 WW2 Essex-class kit and has enough parts for two models of two different classes (including the Midway and Forrestal kits by Revell.) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Derek Frost Subject: FS: Aircraft Carriers by Roger Chesenau "AIRCRAFT CARRIERS OF THE WORLD, 1914 TO THE PRESENT. AN ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOPEDIA". R.Chesneau. 1998 edition. This is a very comprehensive work covering the development of aircraft carriers. There is a catalog section detailing some 329 ships arranged chronologically by country. Each class of ship includes scale drawings. Hc. 288pp. Over 400 b/w photographs & line drawings. New. $30.00US. Postage extra. Derek Frost -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: IPMS-USA 1999 Winners photos are up! The photos of the winning models at the IPMS-USA Nationals are now posted at: http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfl/winners.htm These photos are the ones used at the awards presentations. The photo of the Tarawa - the winner of the best aircraft carrier/best ship/most popular - by Mike Sharpe doesn't do it justice. It was immaculate! Check them out Ed Mansfield, TX BTW -- Steve Wiper -- Where's the Classic Warships - SMML/Best Fletcher announcement and award? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Subject: Pacific Front Info Hi Everyone, This has been forwarded to me for publication in SMML. Hope it answers a lot of questions. Jon Warneke Commaner Series Models, Inc. Bill Gruner wants everyone to know that Pacific Front is up and running, though not yet at full capacity. He is in the process of having offices built at his new Roseburg, Oregon home. He can be reached by phone or snail mail (but not email) as follows: Pacific Front PO Box 2098 Roseburg Oregon 97470 541-464-8579 phone 541-957-5477 FAX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume