Subject SMML17/10/99VOL701 Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 00:26:41 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Oil tanker queries 2: Drilling muzzles in gun barrels 3: Re: Drilling out gun barrels 4: Re: Liberty Ship kit 5: Re: IOWA gun barrels 6: Myron Smith books 7: Re: Lights (was demise of HOOD) 8: Book 9: Re: lead parts 10: Re: Iowa Barrels 11: New Scharnhorst book 12: Re: APD 13: QUAKE! 14: New To This Game 15: UK IPMS NATS 16: Thanks,YMS,SMML Meet 17: Airfix Royal Sovereign 18: Lead Wire 19: Fw: AD Battleship Scharnhorst - new photos. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: NEW 1/350 KGV set from Tom's Modelworks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS Hi gang, To the SMMLies in California & Florida(& The east coast), take care & we hope you & your families are ok. Shane & Lorna -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Oil tanker queries Hi I have two questions about oil tankers 1. In a book called World War 2 photo album No. 11 U-boats in the Atlantic by Paul Beaver copyright 1979 on page 51 is this statement "The American tanker PRAIRIE refuels a group of U-boats, including U-107, just 6 months before the US entered the war on the Allied Prior to Pearl Harbor, many Americans were more pro German than pro British and, in fact several senior officials in major oil companies were naturalized American citizens of German extraction. Indeed, there were four American tankers waiting to supply the Bismarck when she sailed on her ill fated cruise "With it is a photo of the SS Prairie with U-boats. Who owned the Prairie? What oil companies or company was involved in this? Any one heard anything about this? 2. Does any one know the fate of the USS Schuylkill AO-76. I know it was decommissioned in 1975. Sincerely, Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: Drilling muzzles in gun barrels Drilling holes in gun barrels and other slender objects is a lot easier if you first mark the position of the drill with the prick of a needle or the tip of a compass. Make sure the mark is in center of the barrel, and the drillbit will center itself if you drill perpendicular ot the surface. To get the desired effect, you don't need to drill any deeper than one to two millimetres. Finish off with a black wash and you're done. Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Drilling out gun barrels >> I'd like to know the best way to add 'depth' the business end of these guns. << The easiest way to drill out gun barrels is to use a no. 11 Xacto blade and a magnifier. Use a magnifier so you can accurately place the tip of the blade dead center on the end of the barrel. Gently twist the knife and it will drill into the barrel. This will produce a hole that is pointed at the bottom but once it's painted black, no one will notice. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Liberty Ship kit >> Can anyone suggest a good (detailed)plastic model kit for the WWII Liberty Ship? << Skywave has recently released a 1/700 scale model that from I hear is very nice. Toms Modelworks also produces a kit as well with a full PE set included. You can also purchase the PE set separately if you buy the Skywave kit. I also believe Bluejacket Ship Crafters produces a large scale version of the Liberty ship. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: IOWA gun barrels You don't say what scale your IOWA is, but even if it's 1/700, drilling out the barrels will make a huge difference in appearance. It's not all that hard: I've drilled out main battery, secondary, and AA barrels in this scale. Before you start drilling, take a pin or needle and make a small indentation in the center of the barrel end. That will serve as a pilot hole and keep your drill from "skating." On the other hand, there are turned brass barrels available in 1/700. I believe that Bill Gruner at Pacific Front Hobbies carries them. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Steve Singlar Subject: Myron Smith books Myron Smith wrote 5 Battleship books, published by Pictorial Histories Publishing Co. of Missuoula Montana. These were well done and provided line drawings and color photos as well as the ship's history. I have not seen any of his books on the New Mexico class battleships. Does anyone know if such a book exists? Is Smith still doing these books? Thanks, Steve Singlar Pelham, NH -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Lights (was demise of HOOD) As has been observed, the screw-clamp-to-the-edge-of-the-table mount of this type lamp is less than reliable (my wife's, on her computer desk, has toppled more than once--fortunately without taking out the monitor screes). However, there's a relatively easy fix. On most of these lights, a shaft on the bottom of the arm fits into a hole in the clamped-on base. Throw the base away, and drill a correctly-sized hole in your desk or work table. Insert the shaft on the light's arm into the drilled hole, and it won't fall over any more (unless, of course, you manage to capsize your entire desk or work table). John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Book Anyone looking for a copy of McKay & Harland's Anatomy of the Ship, _The Flower Class Corvette AGASSIZ_? There's one on e-Bay, with a current bid of $9.99. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: lead parts Derek Wakefield is right that there are potential problems using lead wire and solder in scale modeling. The problem, that applies to lead castings as well, involves the flowering or flaking of the parts as lead reacts with out-gassed chemicals from the other materials used - especially some kinds of wood. Paint seems only to slow the process, however, it primarily occurs in unventilated display cases. There is a good article about this, written by the curator of the US Navy's ship models, at http://www.dt.navy.mil/cnsm/lead_01.html The warning out of the way, any store that caters to electronics hobbyists will have a large selection of various gauges of solder. Better than that is to recycle old electrical wire to build up a stock of fine copper wire in many gauges. For example, the multistrand copper wire found in those strings of mini Christmas lights works for all sorts of things in 1:350 and will have some applications in 1:700. Just remember to clean the wire the same way you would photoetched detailing before using it. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Iowa Barrels >> ship (now USS Iowa). At my current stage, I am wondering about the barrels of the main guns, and I'd like to know the best way to add 'depth' the business end of these guns. Should I drill them out? Assuming I can find a bit small enough, I'm not particularly confident in my ability to do this correctly (I cringe at the thought of slipping just an eensy bit) What about replacing them with brass tubing? Again, an issue for me is if I can << You have the two options that you mentioned, both have their problems. Drilling the existing barrels presupposes that they are true and properly aligned, such as to make the effort worth while. It also presumes that they are sufficiently accurate to eliminate the need to replace them tor that reason. My approach to drilling barrels is to chuck them in a drill or dremel and "CAREFULLY" apply the business end of a wire gage drill that I hold in a pin vice. I First carefully file the end of the barrel square while it is spinning in the drill. This method tends to be self centering if you develop a gentle touch and if the barrel is square across the end. The major problem will be melting of the plastic, so this should only be used to drill a rather shallow hole, which can then be deepened by hand, holding the barrel still and rotating the bit in the pin vise between your fingers. If you have access to a decent small lathe, like a Sherline, the simple method is to just chuck them and bore with a drill in the tailstock chuck. The second method, the use of brass tubing has the obvious charm of having the bore already there. The problem is that gun barrels are not fixed diameter tubes, they are tapered and frequently stepped. This means that you will either have to build them up from telescoping tubing and either file or turn the proper tapers and diameters, or else turn them in a lathe from solid brass or aluminum and then drill them in the lathe. I have yet to meet the ship kit that didn't require work on and not infrequently total replacement of gun barrels!! Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Darren Scannell Subject: New Scharnhorst book Just saw an add on RMS about a new Scharnhorst photo book. Check it out at http://www.oxfordmuseumpress.com/ If anyone has comments, I'd like to here them, as I was thinking it looks like a good photo reference at a reasonable price. Darren Scannell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Marc Flake Subject: Re: APD Derek: Don't give up the ship. As I noted, my father-in-lw served on the Bass, a Crossley-type APD. I kit-bashed a Skywave Rudderow-class DE and the Classic Warships APD to make him a model of his ship. I simply cut the forward superstructure off the Skywave kit, made a few cuts, sanded here and there, assembled it and positioned it properly on the Classic Warships' hull. And frankly, the tripod crane is much esier to construct than the lattice work nightmare on the Lawrence-class APDs. The best part is that you take the high bridge from the Classic Warships kit and use it on the Skywave kit to create a Buckley-class destroyer. Caution: You'll need to do some major surgery around the gun mount areas or guild one of the few "modernized" Buckleys that carried 5" gun mounts. Or, you can take it a step further, slice a 1/4 inch out of the Skywave hull, slice up the aft superstructure and voila! You have an Evarts-class DE. Marc Flake Tarrant County, Texas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: QUAKE! To all of those SMMLlies who got hit by the Californian quake, we at WEM. hope that you and your homes are all well and undamaged, and, more to the point, that no-one's models got knocked off their workbenches! All The Best Caroline and Dave Carter WEM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "marpet" Subject: New To This Game Does anyone have any info on the following ship types? Liberty,Empire,and Fort. I've just discovered that there are different types of all of the above. They say that ignorance is bliss but somehow I doubt it. My main area of interest is merchant ships 1930s to 1990. 1990 Being when I percieve the end of real ships. Sadly since then it's been container boats with everything. Any and all costs incurred by anyone will be fully refunded,along with my deepest thanks. This took an hour to do,technology is killing me. Yours sincerely Peter MacKinnon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Tim Perry" Subject: UK IPMS NATS Hi Les, I certainly will be pleased to chat with you, Les! Mind you, I'd suggest you try to recognise me by my badge than the bulge in my pocket. That could lead to all sorts of 'complications' if your bulge recognition is a bit off...... Which reminds me of a 'recognition' snippit! In the Royal Navy Pocket Gunnery Book of 1945, chapter IX, para 466, reference aircraft recognition and its importance in anti-aircraft gunnery, the following advice is given: '...Some credence should be given to the opinions [regarding aircraft recognition] of youths in this matter; some of them have surprisingly accurate knowledge.' One up to the plane spotters! Oh, I have just read Carolines latest comments regarding that F****R class book; I think Shane ought to knock this thread on the head now, before it gets completey out of hand. (sorry...) Tim (see you at Telford) Perry Bristol, UK Hi Tim, She also mentioned that "Y" word in the recent past as well. Methinks a reprimand may be in order, so as to make sure these threads are kept in order ;->>. Shane - who prefers "O" for the moment, whilst he's battling PE Bofors ;-). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: CA139JOHNF@aol.com Subject: Thanks,YMS,SMML Meet Hi Mates, Thanks Caroline for your kind words and also for pointing out the other museum ships in the UK. I now have more than enough reason to make a return visit in the not too distant future (I hope). Being a museum staff member puts me in contact with many members of the general public. Being the responsible person for putting on exhibits of ship models gets a lot of questions thrown my way about what models are available. Most people I can send direct to one of distributers (PFH, Naval Base, RMS, Etc.). As for the YMS/BYMS, I drew a blank. I have had several inquiries on smaller vessels like this. It would be nice if there was some way that a basic kit of the smaller ships, like mine craft, amphibs and the like could be available. Lots of possiblities for dioramas and custom models for all those guys that served in those ships that have never had a model available. Justa thought. First call for the SMML MEET meeting. It will be held aboard the USS Salem, Saturday, 13 November, at 1000 until ?. Any and all smmlies are welcome, just let me know so I can have a list on the Quarterdeck for the admissions people. First posting on the meeting will be the next days SMML. I have been contacted by a couple of local list members but I know of some others, so don't be bashful. All great things start small and we have a unique oppourtunity here to start a really neat thing. If we pull off a memorable event, I for one would travel to another. Let's do it! John Frohock USNSM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: ordrazz@geelong.hotkey.net.au Subject: Airfix Royal Sovereign Hi All, I have just purchased a model of the Royal Sovereign (Sailing Ship) at my local sunday market, it was marked $5, but i bargained it down to $3, as the instructions & sails were missing (& who knows what else) So i would like to know if anyone who has instructions, please scan or copy them, send them to me, my email is mailto:ordrazz@geelong.hotkey.net.au also any sails would be helpful, but i should be able to make them out of cloth.... its in the old box, marked " classic series 9", cat no. 901, code no. 09251-3 thanks in advance Cheers & 73's for now, ordrazz -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Suvoroff@aol.com Subject: Lead Wire Lead wire is available in a variety of sizes at the larger fish-and-tackle shops, it is used in fly-tying. Some of it is quite fine. I don't really see the utility of this material for fire hoses since these (hoses that is) are flat like shoestrings when not pressurized. Lead can corrode over a period of time, particularly if sealed in a wooden case. There is an interesting article at the Nautical Research Guild website at; http://www.naut-res-guild.org/lead2.html on this phenomenon. Yours, James D. Gray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Bruce Buchner" Subject: Fw: AD Battleship Scharnhorst - new photos. Here is an ad that I found today on the REC.MODELS.SCALE newsgroup today. I went to the web site and it looks to be a reasonable bargin. There is a JPEG that shows one view of a set of model builder plans that were given to the crew members at the time. I don't know how accurate the plan is but the color scheme that was put out officially seems to be useful. My German however is not very good. Could someone help translate the color scheme. Farbangabe: Rumpf unten: Dunklenbraunrot Daruber Streifen: Grauschwarz Aufbauten: Hellgrau Decks: Hellholzfarben Aufbautendecks: Sienabraun Thanks, Bruce Buchner >> AD Battleship Scharnhorst - new photos. New Photo Book The Battleship Scharnhorst The Crew Photo Album By Randall Shoker 128 pages over 150 photos, most never published before Pre-publication special price. Go to www.oxfordmuseumpress.com for full details << -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Tom & Carolyn Harrison" Subject: NEW 1/350 KGV set from Tom's Modelworks NEW 1/350 set from Tom's Modelworks Set 3513 King George and Prince of Wales detailing set. rails, radar's, cranes etc. $25.00 (Bismarck/Tirpitz, Yamato/Musashi sets by end of year) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume