Subject: SMML28/10/99VOL712 Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 00:35:41 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: MSB 2: Masking tape 3: Re: aircraft tie downs 4: Angle deck Essex Models and a question: 5: Re: Damaged Model 6: Re: masking tape 7: On eBay, Essexes, and APDs 8: Aurora and Potemkin 9: Ordering parts from Nichimo 10: News from Heller 11: German destroyer camouflage 12: Re: What happened to MSB Magazine: Thanks 13: USS Pennsylvania 14: Re: Masking tape 15: Photos Onboard Ships 16: RN Cruiser Funnel Bands 17: HMAS Hobart 18: Re: Anchor and anchor chain colors. 19: Re: Anchor & Anchor Chain Colours 20: Re: Lindberg Clevelands 21: Re: Bogus Hilary 22: Re: Paper Ship Models 23: Re: Paints -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: **NEW** WEM 1/700 KING GEORGE V CLASS SET 2: Steel Navy Announcement 3: Maritime Modeler Magazine Update -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: MSB MSB editor Jeff Phillips has sold the magazine and taken a new job, it's being made a part of new magazine. Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Masking tape >> What kinds of masking tape would be good to use when they need to cover existing paint surfaces? << Alan: I like to use 3M #218 Fine Line Tape, a masking tape for auto body work. It is available at auto body supply shops as well as some auto parts stores and some hobby shops. It has a good straight edge unlike common masking tape and it will not lift previously applied paint. It burnishes down and makes a seal with the surface that is almost impossible to get paint to seep under. I use a lot of 1/16" wide tape and some 1/8" wide. Common masking tape can be used to further mask off the surface but only adhere it tightly to the 3M tape. Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Lisa and Bill Wiseman Subject: Re: aircraft tie downs Any body with better info please have at it. Before I smartened up and cross rated, I was an Aviation Boatswain'n mate. (ABL) I tied down more than a few aircraft. Working from memory and some photos from the old days, my trusty dividers make the diameter of the tie down 4.5 - 5 inches. The "star" in the center was 3/8" bar stock probably mild steel. I remember them being just slightly wider than the heel of a boot and the stars about the diameter of my little finger. Like I said long ago and far away. Doc Wiseman (Who went from the flight deck to the front line.... what was I thinking??) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Mark Shannon Subject: Angle deck Essex Models and a question: As far as the Angle deck Essex kits are concerned, while Revell had the most easily obtained, it was different from the Renwal kit that was sold as the CV-38 Shangri-La, among others. If I recall details exactly, the Revell kits had a rounded bilge profile, while, in a reversal of the usual, the Renwal kit had a flat bottom with the center as a second piece containing the indent reinforcing for the peg-stands. Among the deck complement was a Regulus missle and launch stand, and there were a mobile deck crane and tow vehicles included. Both the Revell and the Renwal kits were roughly the same scale, somewhere between 1/500-1/600 if I remember right. Neither were great shakes on fit, finish, and probably accuracy. Question: Does anyone have a 1/700 kit available of the Fairmile MTB/MGB in any of the permutations? I know it's small, but a diorama I'm thinking of involves an incident I read with an MTB battle between a "flotilla" of Schnellboote and a couple of Fairmiles, escorting a damaged steamer, with a couple of Vospers coming in on the situation. The Vospers and Schnellboote are no real problem, even the merchie is no real problem between available kits, but the Fairmile seems to be notable for its absence. Mark. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Damaged Model >> One aspect that I found disturbing... despite notices posted on and around Jim Baumann's models, not to remove the covers (when you see around 5 miles of spider's web thin stretched sprue on each of his models, you can understand..), someone (maybe the "official" IPMS photographer, or the press?) removed and replaced the cover, demolishing about a week's worth of rigging on one of his models. He was livid. << This why IPMS/USA rules state that covers must be removed before the model will be judged. This way if any damage befalls a model, at least the judges can't be blamed. I always hate to hear about damage to any model at the Nats. The same thing happened to me one year so I know just how Jim feels. To the judges credit, the damage wasn't counted against me and I still got a second. Small consolation for the damage though. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: masking tape >> What kinds of masking tape would be good to use when they need to cover existing paint surfaces? I would assume that there is more than one. I've used the blue painter's tape with mixed results. << For general masking, I use Scotch removable tape (blue label). The only problem with it is it doesn't work well on compound curves because of the low tack. For hard sharp lines I use vinyl automotive pin striping tape. I then use the Scotch tape for general masking inside the vinyl lines. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Steven P. Allen" Subject: On eBay, Essexes, and APDs I have by private email made Derek the offer of bidding on and arranging sales on eBay as his computer is not eBay-friendly. I would like to extend that offer to others: if you don't or can't follow eBay yet have a particular item in mind, I'll be happy to discuss helping you out. I follow eBay regualarly and have even published about on-line auctions. The Revell angled-deck Essex was also issued as Bon Homme Richard at least once, in the mid- to late-'70s. Interesting stuff on the camo colors, John. Probably a good call on GREEN = BROWN. A trip to the Archives is not in my future, unfortunately. One pic I have of Lloyd shows some deck area--it appears that the pattern is continued on horizontal surfaces without alteration of the colors, but this seems strange. Well, maybe not, as the job was done pre-Kamikaze. . . .it would seem that the green-scheme would stick out like a sore thumb on the open water. Would in-shore water be sufficiently green and brown to avoid that? Is anyone out there planning a trip to the archives? Steve Allen -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Tom Werner Hansen" Subject: Aurora and Potemkin Hi, everybody. My name is Tom Werner Hansen. I have been lurking for a while, but now I dare surface with a question and a plea for assistance. I looked through the gallery pages at Felix Bustelo's web site and found a nice model of the Potemkin made from a Russian Heller clone. Many, many years ago I picked up in Poland both this kit as well as the Aurora, from, I assume, the same source. These kits have been gathering dust, partly because I was put off by the all-russian instructions and colour terminology. Inspired by Chris Crofoot's model I have dug them out, and now , hopefully with the assistance of somebody knowledgeable on this list I can have my questons answered. The main problems are of course, the colour. What would the colour schemes for the Potemkin at the time of the mutiny in the Black Sea be? 2. The colours for the Aurora in St. Petersburg 1917? Could anybody help with drawings of either of these to check the accuracy of the kits? My own sources are woefully inadequate for the job. Are there on-line sources, profiles or such, that I could access? Has anybody else built these kits and could comment on them. On Crofoot's advice I'll get the GMM Naval vessel P.E set for these. And finally: Chris said he had used a book called Battleships of the First World War as a source for drawings for the Potemkin. Does anybody have any more info on this book? I realize I've been asking a lot, but if you lot are a bit like the guys on the other list I subscribe to, I'll be swamped in useful information. TIA Tom W -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Bishop, Paul" Subject: Ordering parts from Nichimo Hellooooooooo, I need a part for my 1/200 Yamato from Nichimo. Has anyone been able to order a part from them? I have looked long and hard for a web page to no avail. Does anyone have a snail mail address, or better yet a web page address? Thanks a lot, Paul Bishop -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Jean-Paul Binot" Subject: News from Heller I just had an exchange of e-mails with Mr. Francis Reiser of Heller, using the e-address I found on Felix's site. This very courteous gentleman indicated that Heller welcomes feedback from its customers (I had provided a list of my suggestions for new kits as well as re-ssues.) Mr. Reiser also indicated that Heller is planning to continue its current programme of re-issue with the kit of the cruiser Colbert, which was on my list of old favourites. It is great news because the kit has not been available for decades and has a very nice potential for conversion to match the current state of the ship (which has become a museum in Bordeaux). I am sure that most of us SMMLers will be keen to support Heller, which is one of the very few manufacturers of injection moulded kits to offer a large range of very nice kits. Now that we have a contact person with them, we have a chance to help them realise the full portential of their products for our world-wide community. Jean-Paul Binot (who got married last Saturday, but still has permission to build ships for the time being...) Bonjour Jean-Paul, CONGRATULATIONS on your marriage. Welcome to the hen-pecked club ;->> Shane Congratulations to you both Mistress Lorna - living proof that you can be married to a ship modeller and enjoy it ;-) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Bob Pearson" Subject: German destroyer camouflage Greetings all, I just received up a copy of The German Navy in WW2 by Robert Jackson and am curious as to the accuracy of the coour profiles inside .. in particular that of Z-23 in what almost appears to be an RN type of pattern/colours. I have seen similiar patterns on German Torpedo boats, but not destroyers. For those wondering what it looks like I have posted it on my website at http://members.xoom.com/Sopwith_5F1/Z-23_camouflage.jpg. Also in the same post was the BATTLESHIP TIRPITZ by Koop anbd Schmolke. ... I should have reviews of both in the next Internet Modeler due on November 1st. Regards, Bob Pearson Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.internetmodeler.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Fritz Koopman Subject: Re: What happened to MSB Magazine: Thanks Kurt: Thanks for the info. >> Don't feel annimosity towards SIS magazine over this situation << Oh oh..Showing animosity was not the intent of my message. I hope it didn't come off that way, and I apologize if it did. Especially since I do remember other SMMLies posting about what happened to subscribers of Model Shipwright a while back. The message was to express a bit of shock and surprise (since I was not aware that MSB had been for sale for that long) as well as a bit of a depression that comes with losing something that one both enjoys and takes for granted. Thanks again for filling me in. Best Regards Fritz Koopman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Jean-Paul Binot" Subject: USS Pennsylvania Thanks to all SMMLers who volunteered information and suggested readings further to my question on converting Revell's Arizona into hes sister-ship. Shipbuilding is now underway, but I thought I would share with the group the results of my query (I hope everyone will concur, if not, please contribute some more). All things considered, it seems that the work involved is challenging enough while not too hard. The only period of the career of Pennsylvania that will allow me to use all the parts provided by Lorren Perry in his GMM set is Feb to October 1942: Secondary gun battery: The shields for the 5/25" were installed while refiting post-Pearl Harbour in Mare Island in early 1942 (the splinter protection was there since early 1941), and were discarded with the guns in October of that year when Pennsylvania received her new secondary battery replacing both the 5/25" and the 5/51" batteries. The 5/51" should probably be replaced by scratchbuilt equivalents installed in open gun ports rather than the turret-like blobs of plastic provided by Revell. Radars: Pennsylvania did indeed have the CXAM radar on Dec, 7th, 1941 (it shows on the uncensored pictures), but the FC set was installed in Mare Island in February 1942. AA fit: 20mm guns need to be added: 4 around the bridge, 4 around the funnel and 4 at the level of C turret (unsure about those last four). 1.1" mounts need to be scratchbuilt to fit in the gun tubs abreast of the forward superstructure. The two mounts to be fitted abreast the mainmast need to have their tubs on the quarterdeck removed and positioned on platforms built at the level of the boatdeck. Cranes: Two types of cranes were in service on US pre-war battleships: Arizona had one type, and Pennsylvania had the other. Sratchbuilding them should not be too difficult, though. The aircraft crane on the fantail will be replaced by the GMM version. Aircraft: Obviously those provided by Revell are unusable. Where to find 1/426 Kingfishers? Both catapults can be replaced by their GMM equivalent. Superstructure: it differs slightly from the one in Arizona. The armored conning tower is one level higher, there is a platform on top of it and the platforms on the forcastle fit around it. There is a searchlight on a tiny platform protruding above turret B. Anchors: It seems that only one was carried on each side, using the forward hawses. It is not clear whether a second anchor was carried on the port side. Any further info, anyone? Searchlight: One is carried in front of the armored conning tower, and four on a platform at midmast aft. The other four provided in the kit to fit around the funnel need to be discarded. Sundry details: life rafts need to be added at various places on the superstructure, and boats on the boatdeck need to be rearranged, but I am unsure of the exact layout. Camouflage: Ms 21 Navy Blue vertical surfaces, deck blue horizontal surfaces. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Masking tape Alan Salas wrote: >> What kinds of masking tape would be good to use when they need to cover existing paint surfaces? I would assume that there is more than one. I've used the blue painter's tape with mixed results. << I have had good luck with either automotive grade (available at most auto parts stores) masking tape, or with drafting tape. 3M also makes a tape called fine line masking tape which is available in several different widths, again, usually carried by the automotive parts stores. I use both the 1/8th and 1/4 inch wide versions of the fine line tape. It goes around curves well. Of course, even the best of tapes will sometimes pull up the underlying paint. I have had post-it notes pull up Testors metalizers! Be sure to burnish the edges of the tape with a round toothpick to prevent the paint from bleeding under the tape. A technique that helps to prevent pulling up the underlying paint is, when removing the tape, do not pull it straight up, like this L. Instead, remove it in a manner more like this =. I hope that is a clear explanation. Mike Settle I am not agent #1908 of the non-existent Lumber Cartel (tinlc)tm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Photos Onboard Ships Ken Perry wrote: >> After waiting in line for about thirty minutes toting out cameras, we made it to the begining of the line only to hear the sailor tell us to put the cameras away before going up to the deck. If we were caught taking pictures, our cameras would be confiscated. << Unfortunate that this sort of thing happens to Ken or anybody else who wants a few photos. Probably atypical, but unfortunate all the same. I suspect the sailor in question was feeling self-important or didn't know any better, but I can't imagine them trying to confiscate a camera from a member of the public. It would invite a public relations disaster, and the Navy prizes good PR above all else. One would think a ship that's making a port visit or holding an open house would expect people to bring cameras. In places like San Diego and Norfolk, cameras are technically forbidden on the piers but of course they're everywhere, especially if a ship is leaving for or coming back from deployment and the families and press are there. Many years ago on a port visit to NYC, I was getting relieved as OOD Inport when a gentleman with a lot a camera gear came up the gangway. Asked if it was OK to shoot some pictures. I checked with the CDO, who quickly got an OK from the XO. They basically had no problem but just said not to let him climb the mast or do anything else that might be unsafe (e.g., he may get hurt and try to sue the government). After watch relief I escorted him around the ship, and asked only that he not take pictures down in the berthing spaces out of respect for the privacy of the crew. The photographer was Arnold Meisner, who later did at least one photo book about ships (Ticonderoga class). Another time in Norfolk there was somebody happily snapping away on the pier. One of the petty officers on watch pointed this out to the CDO as he went by, who responded with "So what to you expect me to do, run down there and tackle him?" Bottom line is that there is no clear-cut policy and every ship does things differently. It always helps to have a contact or escort or try to get permission in advance if there is any ambivalence. Kurt at SeaPhoto could probably write a book on his own experiences - good, bad, or indifferent. Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Richa5011@aol.com Subject: RN Cruiser Funnel Bands Does anyone know of any source that lists the color and number of funnel bands carried by British Cruisers before and during World War One? I have recently come across a great photo of a Cressy (Baccante) class armored cruiser. This particular ship carries what appears to be a single white band around the top of the first and fourth funnels. I would guess that the photo is pre-war... Nat Richards -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: WRPRESSINC@aol.com Subject: HMAS Hobart I am looking for port side views of the cruiser Hobart taken in 1941, this in order to ascertain if her camouflage pattern was the same as that on the starboard side, of which I have the details. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: b29@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Anchor and anchor chain colors. The French Navy has long had a practice of painting it's anchors and chains black. This is clearly visible in photos of French ships dating as far back as the 1920's. Paul Jacobs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Anchor & Anchor Chain Colours >> TOILETS have chains, ships have CABLES!! << Caroline Uh, interesting analogy there , but is this something unique to the RN or days of sail? Reason I ask is that I've never seen the term "Cable" used in place of "Chain" in USN records. For example, note the following excerpt from DECK LOG BOOK & WAR DIARY (CONDENSED), USS DENVER (CL-58), DECEMBER 1, 1942 TO DECEMBER 31, 1942 "04 - 08 Steaming as before on various courses and speeds to conform with channel. 0448 anchored in Delaware Bay in 7 1/2; fathoms of water with 45 fathoms of chain to the starboard anchor... G. C. Wilson, Lieut. (jg) D-V(G), USNR" Reading similar deck logs from other USN ships during that period also shows the term "Chain" rather than "Cable". Just curious. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Lindberg Clevelands >> Funny you should mention the Lindberg Cleveland class cruiser, back in 1985 I did an article with that kit and the Revell reissue of the RENEWAL kit in Model Ship Builder #38 called the ninth day twin ships. It showed an early war version Lindberg and a late war version Revell. << Craig My apologies for replying to this twice, but another question came to mind. You said you built the Lindberg kit up as an early war ship. It's been ages since I've seen this kit. As such, the only thing I have to go by is a photo of a kit built by Carl Erickson (see the gallery at the IMM site) as the Miami. I have *very* little in the way of resourses/references of Cleveland cl ships (gotta get the Freidman book!). I've spent more time studying Brooklyn/St Louis cl ships than Clevelands. Most of what I have are blurry distant photos from Navsource & Hyperwar (with great closeups of the bridge work of the Denver and Astoria) and of models of the Cleveland, Birmingham, and Miami at the Warships site (excellent work guys!!) Comparing Erikson's build-up (one small photo) to these photos it's hard to determine whether the Lindberg kit is supposed to represent an early or late war ship. Knowing Lindberg, it was never supposed to represent any one particular ship, but... From what I can tell, the bridge looks "sorta" like those on early ships while the AA gun arrangment seems more indicative of a late war ship. From what I remember of the kit (remember...it's been almost ten years since I laid eyes on the one I had), I'm guessing Erickson added at least one raised 40mm AA platform to resemble the Miami's late-war AA suite. Unfortunately, the listing gave very little in the way of specifics regarding what he did and didn't modify. What I'd like to do is to built up one of these kits as a USS Houston as she appeared shortly before she was torpedoed in 44. I know...I should just get the Skywave Miami kit, but $40 IMO is a lot to pay for a 1/700 ship. If I'm going to shell out bucks for a Cleveland, I'd rather hold out and wait to see if anyone ever releases a 1/350 kit again. The photos I have of the Houston show her to have a flat bridge (so I'm already looking at a modification there). Based on your experience with this kit, what other modifications would have to be made? Don't even mention the 6" and 5" guns turrets ...I remember how bad those were. Then again, this is a nostalgia project, not one for contest purposes. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Bogus Hilary >> The photo of the "HAN YANG" that appeared for decades in Jane's Fighting Ships was actually of the HILARY P. JONES early in her USN career. Early units of the BENSON and LIVERMORE classes received the originally-planned five 5-in 38-caliber single gunmounts, usually with the two after mounts on the 01 level in open mountings. If I recall the photo correctly (my books are still in storage), the JONES had the uncommon open-topped gunhouse for those after mounts; canvas over pipe frames made these mounts appear to be completely plated. JANE'S alas, over its long career, has altogether too often misrepresented photos, which is one of many reasons why COMBAT FLEETS was started and why it is generally acknowledged as the superior reference book on modern navies. And it's a LOT cheaper. << The only other photos I've seen of the HILARY P. JONES showed her with all five 5/38s, but with the Q and X mounts being completely open (with only canvas covers over the guns themselves). Going back and studying the alleged photo, the housings around those mounts do appear to be slightly different from the A, B, and Y mounts (man, I hope I'm getting my ABCs right here or I'm going to blow my rep as being a smart-arse!). While they have an open hatch like the A, B, and Y mounts, the color scheme is different. Namely, the dark tops extend further down the sides than on the other mounts. Also, if you look REAL hard (hey, this is a very small photo) you can make out slight peaks and valleys atop the cover of Q mount where the canvas sags between the pipe frames. Likewise, they don't seem to reflect as much light as the steel housings (indicating a matte finish, or...cloth rather than metal). The photo is definately of the HILARY P. JONES as I recognize the Ms-22 paint scheme and I can read her pennant number painted on the stern. I guess it to be a wartime picture from the six single 20mm mounts I can make out. All things considered, this would be an interesting ship to model. I'm just not sure if anyone has ever made a 1/700 Benson/Gleeves to use as a starting point. Good one...thanks a lot for solving that mystery for me! Dasvidanya! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Paper Ship Models >> Has anyone ever used the pattern of a paper model to build up a ship in plastic stock? I have toyed with the concept as several ships I would like to build are only avilable in card. Just a thought. << Charles... In as far as the large size of card-stock kits is concerned, there's an article on the IMM site by Carl Erickson about reducing a large 1/400 USS CARD card-stock kit down to a more managable 1/600 scale one. The link is... http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/articles/cardship.htm Dasvidanya! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Felix Bustelo Subject: Re: Paints I wish to chime in that I would love to see a line of paints from Synder & Short to complement their line of paint chip cards. I for one can be considered "color challenged" and would find a line of quality paints that would take the guess work out would be very helpful. Regards, Felix Bustelo (who is wearing an extremely silly smile because the Yankees have now won the World Series two years in a row and sweeping the opponents both times!) Geez Felix, it's only baseball ;-þ Shane - ducking for cover -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: **NEW** WEM 1/700 KING GEORGE V CLASS SET Yes!! Coming to you shortly, after much pleading, begging and grovelling from a number of customers (you know who you are!!), a 1/700 King George V Class Battleship set (note the Class bit!). This means that we will be including parts to enable you to convert your Tamiya kits, and produce either an Anson or a Howe, as well as a King George V or Prince of Wales and of course a Duke of York. We will also be producing upgrade/conversion sets for the kits to include all resin parts where necessary. Details of these to be announced later. Of course we already provide a huge list of superior resin upgrade parts for these kits in 1/700 (from Twin 4 inch guns to 8-Barrelled Pom-Poms and ship's boats). Re the PE set, this has been researched thoroughly by ourselves, and a large list of "bits" will be winging its way to Peter Hall shortly, who is the miracle-worker in the design department (many of you met this seriously talented but thoroughly nice chap for the first time at the UK Nationals last weekend of course). The usual gen... pixel-perfect relief etching on all parts, tons of AA provided, along with a full range of doors and hatches and 3 thou thickness rails, external degauussing coil, again, relief etched, so you are unlikely to have to buy extra photoetched brass details to complete your model... the set will be priced about the same as the large 1/700 Nelson/Rodney set that we produce (also Peter Hall's work). The parts from WEM sets are guaranteed to be all original designs, so Loren Perry of Gold Medal Models can breathe easy!! We have no intention of covering the 1/350 Scale set, as Loren Perry has already done an excellent job on his retooled version, and we sell a load of his gear anyway (well, so long as he continues to let us have trade discount on these items!!!!) Hope the saliva's drooling nicely guys... All The Bestest, Caroline Carter White Ensign Models at http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/main.htm For plastic and resin ship kits, etched brass, books, colour chips, videos, and Plastic Ship Modeller, just click here! http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/plist1.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) Subject: Steel Navy Announcement From: ironship@usit.net (Jon Warneke) Hi Everyone, The owners of Rhino Models have ask me to post this to SMML. Contact for any questions is rhino7@jps.net. Thanks Jon Warneke Commander Series Models, Inc. The Steel Navy Dreadnought is now available. It is a 1:350 scale full hull model depicting the HMS Dreadnought in her "as launched" 1906 configuration. The model includes etched brass and instructions. The best reference (and the one on which the master pattern is based) is Anatomy of the Ship: HMS Dreadnought. This is now out of print, but still available on the secondary market. Dreadnought is an all resin kit. Jon Warneke mastered the hull pattern with assistance from Dave Runkle (who did the exquisite 12" turrets), the owner of Steel Navy/Rhino Models. Dave Runkle did all the casting in his Sacramento facility. Toms Modelworks did the etched brass. I'll have full photo coverage soon so you can inspect the goods before buying. Introductory price is $185, but I believe this will be going up as soon as the first batch is sold out. The model is currently available direct from Steel Navy, as follows: Steel Navy/Rhino Models 7317 Walnut Rd Fair Oaks, CA 95628 (916) 863-6026 PHONE (916) 863-6176 FAX Rhino7@jps.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Victor Baca" Subject: Maritime Modeler Magazine Update As of last week I have terminated my relationship with Hundman Publishing and Maritime Modeler Magazine. I do not know if Hundman still intends to publish the magazine. There is little interest in the feasability of publishing same within the organization; although Bob Hundman has certainly been pushing for it. He's a great man and an excellent scale modeler. I wish him well. Now for some good news. My organization, Photomarine Archives, was planning for a new quarterly aimed at the serious scale ship modeler last year; before we began discussions with Hundman. Our quarterly magazine project is now a high priority. Photomarine's journal will be a quality periodical any ship modeler would look forward to getting in the mail. Clear, sharp photographic coverage will be paramount. We will also present scaled ship's plans (general arrangements and hull lines) and our presentation of ship models and modeling techniques will draw on the talents of the best modelers in the field. The exact details of the journal are still my secret, but I will say that it's style and general physical make-up is unique. I am constantly amazed by the lack of good coverage of our avocation by publishers. We make do with a few scraps and tidbits in magazines which give major coverage to fantasy Star Wars "models of models" and legions of the same old WWII planes and tanks in each issue. When a ship does show up in a major modeling magazine, it becomes a big deal among the ship model fraternity. We deserve better than that. Worldwide, ship modeling is one of the fastest growing segments in the hobby and our market surveys show a lot of armor and train modelers moving into the fold. If you're interested in something that's delivered on schedule and covers what you want to read about, drop me an e-mail with your thoughts, ideas and article proposals. Photomarine's journal will reflect what you want in a magazine. We can only do that by getting your input while we're still in the planning stages. I'll keep you advised as this project develops. Victor Baca Photomarine Archives -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume