Subject: SMML30/11/99VOL745 Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 01:06:37 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Hood web site problems 2: Re: Texas splinter shields 3: Re: Bubble canopy 4: iowa tubs 5: Iowa bow tubs 6: Re: Subjects 7: Weathering tips 8: HMS Malaya 9: Charles De Gaulle 10: CVL Independence 11: AA Cruiser De Grasse 12: Re: Rhetorical ship modeling question 13: Re: Pacific Front Hobbies' Big Move 14: Nevada Bikini Color 15: Reliable Source of Information 16: HMS Hood May 1941 17: Chatham dockyard museum 18: Resin Kits; engineering there of 19: Re: Resin Kits; engineering there of 20: Re: SMML Topics 21: Re: Oilers 22: Re: ESSEX and CIMMARON 23: painting decks 24: 1:600 parts needed / resin preperation 25) Victory 26) New Subscriber -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: DELPHIS 1/350 ANIMOSO and SEAPLANE DIORAMA BASE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Hood web site problems >> I'm suprised you found nothing on the Hood site as there is a section on the final paint scheme: << Chris, The Hood site web master contacted me when he heard my troubles on SMML. He told me the same thing you just did. Apparently, they are having troubles with their server. Anyway, I finally got what I needed and am ready to go. Thanks a bunch. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Texas splinter shields >> Much needed 20mm galleries need to be added to turrets 2 and 4. Using strip styrene. I'm hoping that Rusty has more splinter sheilding on his fret than I will need, so I can add it to the turret tops. << There is extra splinter shield included in the PE set. May be enough to do what you need. If you run short, contact me off post. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Kelvin Mok" Subject: Re: Bubble canopy I had the impression that the model's cockpit area is covered by a simulated weather tarp which would be a reasonable thing to do when storing the plane on an open deck. This raises another question. What do they do with the planes when the main guns were fired. The blast effects would have demolished them. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Keith Bender" Subject: iowa tubs You must scratchbuild those fwd tubs. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Iowa bow tubs Or alternately, one of the TWO makers of "Iowa Conversions" for the Tamiya Missouri might make the effort to include it in their resin sets!!!!!! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Bill_Pasenelli@afsb.com Subject: Re: Subjects I would like to see some of the Pre World War 1British and American Torpedo Boat destroyers in Resin or Injection (hah! fat chance), maybe in 1/350 would be a nice scale or 1/192. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Mike C" Subject: Weathering tips Here are a few suggestions for weathering hulls that I've used with good results in the past, in case you want to try something different. I first paint the ship to look like it has been freshly painted. Then I take separate batches of color that have been lightened or darkened and slightly mottle the color- lighter for highlights and darker for shadow areas and depressions- just to add depth. Then I add darker washes to further accent details, followed by dry brushing with a lighter color for highlights. I've noticed that hulls and splinter shields of ships that have been at sea for extended periods are lighter on the bottoms. I've finally concluded that this is from buildup of salt deposits- spray hits the plates and the water evaporates as it drips down leaving salts and mineral deposits on the lower portions. The same goes for hulls where the swell runs along the waterline. Obviously less pronounced the higher you get. Decks have traffic areas where the paint is kept closer to fresh by the wear from the crew's shoes. Non-traffic areas have more oxidation and are lighter. Runoff from the upper decks will stain the lower decks, too. After I get the paint faded the way I want it then I'll go ahead and give it a coat of flat clear to seal that step in preparation for the next step...rust. I like to use water colors. I have a 10-color kid's set that I use all the time. Just mix black, browns, white, yellow and orange in varying amounts using the inside of the paint set lid for a palette. Use less water so it doesn't just bead up when you apply the paint. You have to remember that it isn't all rust either. There is also oil from machinery, paint oxidation that washes off and plain old grime. Look at old cars and trucks for inspiration if you can't get to a marina or harbor to see real ships or work boats. Rust is rust. You can apply the water colors heavily as long as the tints and tones are about what you're looking for. Put them on with a larger brush or cotton swab. Apply it a little heavier where water is most likely to drain or where things might rub together- hawse pipes, for instance. After these are dry, I'll go back with moistened swabs (water or Windex) and erase most of the watercolor. This is where you pull it back to make it subtle. You can leave it heavier in some places to represent areas where heavy rust builds up; very faint like it's just a stain; or erase it completely where you've changed your mind. The clear coat protects the base paint. Then I'll do a little more dry brushing with the original or lighter base color to put back in the hightlights. Finally, I lightly airbrush around the rust areas with the original and lighter base colors to further take the edge off the rust. The way I look at it, rust doesn't occur all at once and it has different effects in different areas. There is also a difference between areas where rust and grime have been deposited and where paint has gotten water under it and rusted through. Going back and forth with the base colors and rust gives the impression that the rust has built up over time. I would also advise against heavily weathering and rusting the upper works. Deck crews are usually tasked to chasing those areas down and keeping them as shipshape as possible depending on service conditions- even under way. There are exceptions, of course, especially in northern areas of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Faded paint is common but rust is usually dealt with promptly. They can't get at the hull until they anchor somewhere and can put a chair over the side. If you are doing a full-hull ship, don't forget the barnacles and paint fading there, too. I had a hard drive crash and lost the URL and pics of the Spruance class DD that got rammed, but there were excellent references for hull weathering on that site. Mix up some paint that is dark green (almost black), lower your air pressure, open the nozzle and splatter the barnacles on. I apply them a little heavier along the waterline and in depressions to add depth. Remember to mask the hull above where the water normally reaches. BTW, using watercolors like this also works for oil stains and fuel spills around filler caps on aircraft. Of course, these tips work better on larger scales. The important thing is to keep weathering subtle or it will overwhelm your whole effort. I just thought I'd throw this out there to see if anyone wants to play with it. Mike Czibovic -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "John Rule" Subject: HMS Malaya With regard to the photo on page 43 of Ensign 4, by Raven and Roberts, the caption reads "mid 1940 view of Malaya leading Barham while operating in the Mediterranean". In the background of the photo is a County Class cruiser which I had suggested in SMML 740 might be Australia. Chris Langtree (SMML 744) rightly questioned the identification of the ships in the photo, suggesting that they may be Malaya, Ramillies and Kent on their way to bombard Bardia. I now believe that Chris may be right in that the ship in the middle distance may well be Ramillies, even though from this distance and from the angle Barham and Ramillies do have many similarities. My main reason for agreement with Chris' identification is the number of barbettes in the hull. I will try to interrogate my friend further on these matters. Thank you John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Felix Bustelo" Subject: Charles De Gaulle Hello all, I was catching up on the SMMLs so I am a wee late with this reply. I recently purchased the CDG kit and I am rather impressed with it. I had it on order at the Naval Base and I had read the review in FSM just before picking it up. Granted that my impressions are in-box and not a workbench review I found it to be an excellent kit for what it is - a large scale injection molded kit of a brand spanking new subject. The detail present is fine and the aircraft are very good. The main decal sheet is a sight to behold, with just about all flight deck markings included and the black boot top. The roundels for the airfcraft were off centered and the only real blemish on the kit. With some photoetch (I will wait for the L'Aresenal upgrade set) it should build into an excellent model. A more complete review will appear in the December IMM. Felix Bustelo International Maritime Modeling http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "John Clements" Subject: CVL Independence I suppose I shouldn't buy kits for which I have inadequate references, but then who hasn't? Could some kind reader please tell me what planes would have been carried by the Independence when she first entered service, as I am making the version with the 4" guns and the early style mast from the GMM fret. Also, if possible, would she have carried those large numerals at bow and stern at that time? Thanks in advance. A recommendation for a reference book on US carrier aircraft would save future exasperation! John Clements PS Any direct emails to my home address please, at: mailto:johnclements@eckles.demon.co.uk. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: AA Cruiser De Grasse Can anyone recommend a website, or does anyone on the list have any photos of the AA cruiser (ex-WW2-sort-of) De Grasse? I bought the Heller kit a while ago and took it out to play with it. Some time ago I tried a web search, and only ended up on the current De Grasse in the French Navy. Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Erwin Van Deynze Subject: Re: Rhetorical ship modeling question I give all my models first a coat of Klir (Future floor polish in the US, Klear in the UK) before I weather them. This gives them a rock-hard surface, that doesn't get damaged by washes or anything. It also is fantastic to put decals on, afterwards all you need is a coat of matt varnish... Erwin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Bill Gruner Subject: Re: Pacific Front Hobbies' Big Move We have been asked many times what prompted our move from the Seattle WA area, from a bustling, prosperous, progressive area, to a quiet rural area in southwest Oregon. And, as one of our customers put it, "Why Roseburg?" A good question, and a complex one to answer. I could go on and on about the advantages of moving here, but to begin to capture the essence of Roseburg, a small (pop. 20,000) country town with no known shoestores, I might offer up the following excerpts from our local paper, the Roseburg News-Review. These items are actual incidents from the daily Police and Sheriffs Logs, and I thought might better portray the flavor of life in a small town than numerous stilted Visitors and Travelers Bureau brochures: Fri 11:34 am - Woman on Baird St. reported neighbors were preventing people from coming to her yard sale. Sun 4:35 pm - Theft of a tailgate from a pickup parked on Deans Creek road. Sun 5:34 pm - Report of a man bitten by a cat on Corona Loop Road, Green. The cat was now acting really wild. Sun 5:38 pm - Burglary from a mobile home on North Myrtle Rd. Someone took 2 Jack Russel dogs while the owner was napping. Thanks for caring, Bill Gruner Pacific Front Hobbies http://www.pacificfront.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Nevada Bikini Color David Krakow wrote in about Nevada's Bikini Atomic Test colors. The ship was actually painted International Orange on all vertical and horizontal surfaces, except the wooden deck areas, which were natural wood. Nevada was painted this way because she was the target for Test Able during Operation Crossroads, of which there were two test, the other being Baker. Able was an air drop from a B-29, which missed its mark, the Nevada, by something like 2500 yards, quite a lot. I think the bombardier was canned for that kind of a mistake. Test Baker was an underwater detonation, which caused the most damage to the test fleet. Nevada survived both, but it was test Baker that did in the ships, due to extremely high radio active contamination. Testors makes this color, International Orange, in their Model Master line of paints. This would make for a very interesting diorama at the IPMS(International Piss and Moan Society) convention, as I have no doubt how much of a controversy the "Know It All's" would make out of it. I have only seen one color photo of this, and it was badly faded. Steve Wiper Hi Steve, When it comes to modelling acronyms, I always liked the following: SMML - Sad Modellers Maintain Lists. Which IIRC, came from Colin Ritchie last year sometime ;->. Shane - still building madly VP APMA (no meaning as yet, but I'm sure someone will come up with something :-» ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Reliable Source of Information To Ralph and all the other naysayers, In all the research that I have done, and it is quite a bit, I have only come across one, that's right, one who could actually tell me what colors that the US Navy was painting their ships. Unfortunately, most veterans have not been a source, let alone a good source, for extremely detailed information like, "What color as your ship painted in". On the other hand, veterans have been a great source for photos and other items needed for research. I have had guys argue that the turret roofs and face were not painted darker, when the photo shows this to clearly be the case. So, when someone says that the ships were all gray, and nothing else, let me pull out the hundreds of color photos and disappoint them all. I dont mean to be harsh, but this is what I have experienced. I will be posting these color pictures on my web site for all to see, in the very near future. Steve Wiper -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: HMS Hood May 1941 I make no claims to expertise on this but an article by Roger Chesneau in Scale Models July 1977 gives overall AP507B for the Hood, with wooden decks in unpainted teak. However, I have seen it suggested elsewhere (by Mike Williams) that the wooden decks may have been painted dark grey as well. Robert Lockie Cambridge UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: Chatham dockyard museum Having missed the open day earlier this year, a few of us went round on Sunday when the crowds were rather smaller (probably something to do with that November wind). Had a look round HMS Cavalier and the Oberon class submarine Ocelot (it might have been bigger than a wartime British boat, but internal volume seemed pretty similar to that Type IX U-boot at Birkenhead i.e. v.cramped) and also some of the sheds. The latter contain (amongst much else, mostly hidden away) a WW1 CMB and an XE type midget submarine, as well as what looks distinctly like a WW2 MTB, although the superstructure appears to be non-original. Near the western entrance to the site is a long building containing a variety of artefacts and some nice large scale models of the ships involved in the River Plate battle in December 1939 (although Graf Spee has green (!) camouflage like the profile book). According to one of the volunteer chaps, there is a possibility that the same fate which has befallen the NMM at Greenwich may affect this one (all 'experience' and no history), so it might be worth going sooner rather than later. Finished up with a rush round the very interesting 'Wooden walls' exhibit, describing the building of a 17th (I think) warship. At the end of it is an enormous (must be at least 15 feet long) model of HMS Victory, made for an American film in the 1940s and shipped over recently. The whole site takes at least a day to go round, so we will be returning. I am told that the rope-making shed is a bit good as well....... I even managed to pick up a cheap but good copy of 'Dog Boats at War' earlier in the day. Robert Lockie Cambridge UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Resin Kits; engineering there of I sent this to David via private e-mail, but since everyone else is posting their opinions publically, I figured what the hey... I'm one of those who would like to see seperately cast hatches, etc. However, from my talks with Jon Warneke over at IS, I realize all those openings might cause problems with separating the models from the molds. Also, like you said, there would be a lot of extra work for the modeler in cleanup/installation. For a novice this could be a problem, while seasoned vets are likely to scratch the parts and drill out the openings they want anyhow. Hard choice. Personally, I like the idea, but who are you marketing the kits toward? As far as PE goes... I'm a complete novice when it comes to PE, but I prefer it for cranes and other lattice structures for the sake of realism. I can see the problem with 20mm guns in 1:700. I sorta liked the way they were done in my DML Atlanta kit in which the gun was one part and the shield and pedistal mount was another part. Some though would say the shield should be PE because cast parts are too thick. I don't know if a .50-cal MG could be done y in 1:700 as a cast part though. As far subject goes, the first thing that comes to mind is the USS Worchester (CL-144). I've been facinated with this ship and her sister the Roanoke for years. Like the Alaska CBs though, they served such a relatively short time that they never drew much attention. . Another good choice would be the HMCS Bonaventure. There's something to be said about the little Colossus/Majestic cl CVLs that were modified to serve in the smaller navies of the world during the years after WWII (which is interesting given they were designed so that they could be converted into merchantmen after the end of hostilities). My fav of the bunch is the Bonaventure (which some Canadian naval buffs still remember quite fondly from what I've seen on the net). OTOH, if you're looking for another auxiliary subject, then USS Curtiss (AV-4) is a very deserving candidate. Especially since I've seen a number of questions on the list about a US seaplane tender kit. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Resin Kits; engineering there of >> Here's 2 Italian ships I'd like to see...<< Well, for that matter, how about a 1:700 Dutch De Zeven Provincien CLG (which I suspect I'll have to scratchbuild one of these days, but...) Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: SMML Topics >> The level of knowlege among the parties who participate on this list can also be pretty intimidating << Ohh, I hope not! I try to answer submarine questions (my passion) but I very sincerely hope I am NOT intimidating anyone. Usually, I figure that I would rather give a person more information than not enough, but I suppose that can come across as intimidating. Don't mean to. When I started to model submarines, I was frustrated and confused when trying to do the research for a model. Got some help and found kindred souls in the SubCommittee. Now, when a sub question is asked, I try to save the individual from the frustration I experienced in assembling research materials and books, and give out modelling tips. So, when someone asks about freeflood holes on Portsmouth built fleet subs, or fleet sub deck gun armament, or modern submarine propellers or the best way to ligate DNA into a plasmid vector (oh, no, wait, the last one is from my real life job....sorry), I try to give them the best asnwer I can. That, in fact, seems to be the intent and almost invariably the spirit of this list. It's easy to feel intimidated when you first enter a subject, but I very rarely see anyone here unwilling to help a neophyte. After all, we were all once new at this. .....and why haven't you picked up a a paint brush or knife in ten years? Come on, jump in! Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: Oilers Dear Mike: Concerning your questions about the Cimmaron oilers in 1943. It is very possible. According to 2 books I have, in the invasion of the Gilbert Islands a TASK FORCE of 13 oilers were assigned to Service Squadron 8 for refueling TF 58, they were the Cimarron AO-22 Platte AO-24 Sabine AO-25 Guadalupe AO-32 Lackawanna AO-40 Tappahannock AO-43 Neches AO-47 Neosho AO-48 Suamico AO-49 Tallulah AO-50 Pecos AO-65 Neshanic AO-71 Schuylkill AO-76 I don't what camo schemes are accurate for them. But I hope this is of help to you. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: ECammeron@aol.com Subject: Re: ESSEX and CIMMARON Mike: If you are talking 1943, ESSEX would be in her original fit - quad 40 mount forward of the flag bridge and Ms 21. She didn't change to a camo pattern til her 1944 refit. Can't say about which AO - if you did the diorama as of 1943, you could use any of the AOs listed as supporting the Marcus and Wake raids with a fair degree of certainty. Eugene -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: steven lau Subject: painting decks While we're one the subject of relative novice ship modellers getting their basic questions answered, I have a problem getting a good demarcation line between the deck color and the deck fittings and superstructure. I come from the aviation modeling community (Naval aviation only of course- Phantoms Phorever!) and my masking techniques have failed me miserably. Does anyone have a good technique for doing this, especially in 1/350 scale? Do you spray the deck first then try to mask every little nook and cranny before spraying the superstructure? Or do you spray all the deck fittings and superstructure before masking and spraying the deck? I tried the latter technique on a 1/700 Perry class FFG with terrible results. I have also read a column by Rusty White on holding your airbrush at a 90 degree angle to the deck and using the deck edge as a mask but I'm not sure how you could get adequate paint into all the areas perpendicular to the deck edge. Rusty, no doubt, is just really good at this but I'm not sure I could get the nice demarcation line I'm looking for. Anyone out there with some basic tips or suggestions they'd be willing to share? Any help would be greatly appreciated by me as well, I'm sure, with others on the list. Next subject, my wish list. I know they're coming but I really want a 1/350 Brooklyn. Hopefully Steve will have them in Dallas next summer. I've been hoarding cash all fall in order to camouflage the exact price of the kit from my spouse. A subject which I'm sure translates well into all the languages represented on the list. I think cranes and catapults should be done in photo etch but I'd really like to see some company come out with better, more true to scale 20 mm guns. Maybe cast the body and ammo drum in resin or white metal with the barrel a wire and photo etched shield. the pedestal could be either solid cast resin or photo etched depending on early or late style. These might build up into nice replicas. Thanks a bunch. Steve Lau. Lincoln, Nebraska. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Minadmiral@aol.com Subject: 1:600 parts needed / resin preperation Hi all; I have Caroline`s catalog so am asking for other sources. BTW-I almost burned my eyes out looking for the " Caroline- with P.E.bikini" listing!! Anyway - I am doing some (scads) 1:600 coastal craft and need some better looking guns and stuff for them, rafts, boats, and such. Here is a general list of guns needed. single, twin, and quad 20mm 37mm German 40mm Bofors-single-unshielded. single, unshielded 75mm / 3" / 88mm and such. various #2 , #6 British powered and un-powered mounts. While I have your attention- what`s the best way to fill bubbles in resin? And how would you remove those B.B. sized and smaller balls that crop up here and there? Just finished a 1:600 P.T.Dockyard Siebel Ferry. Got a SPICA and GABBIANO for next project. Chuck Duggie PS-got my comp back up and running. Lost ALL my bookmarks and e-mail addresses, but squeezed in a 56K modem. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: hans bosma Subject: Victory Hi Glenn, About the Victory: As it is the most famous ship in brittish naval history there are a lot of books available. I prefer, "The anatomy of Nelsons ships" by C Napean Longridge (Model & Allied publications Ltd. 1972) If you cannot find it somewhere I am happy to send you a copy of the most important rigging details (E mail me). Hellers model is one of the best available and certainly better than the many wooden, mostly Italian kits, that came on the market over the years. I finished the hull a couple of years ago and she is now standing next to the finished wooden kit I made some 25 years ago. The Heller hull is clearly better. With friendly greetings, Hans Bosma -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Jeremy Cox" Subject: New Subscriber Do I need to write anything here?? Well, I am 15 and scratchbuilding a model of the USS Kidd, DD661, and have been looking for a way to get help with my projects. Jeremy Cox -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: DELPHIS 1/350 ANIMOSO and SEAPLANE DIORAMA BASE Hi Guys, Having just received supplies of this kit today, I thought people might like a peek at Delphis Models first 1/350 Scale offering. I won't be pontificating around, casting my "expert" (or not, as the case might be!) opinion over this kit... however, a piccy says a thousand words, but I will say that these pics do not really do the build and casting quality of this model justice. First, the 2-part hull http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/01.jpg Followed by forward section of upper hull. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/02.jpg Stern section as follows: http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/03.jpg Below: Aft superstructure and platforms in place.. a clever bit of casting to get around accommodating those shelter deck supports. Note how this has been designed as a completely separate block, integrating gun platforms into the main casting. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/04.jpg Below: Side profile of aft superstructure block shows a load of built-in detail. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/05.jpg and a close-up on the same part. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/06.jpg the bridge and funnel assemblies are cast in one piece. Note the wooden grille-pattern floor on the open bridge. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/07.jpg ... and from the other side. A lot of built-in extra detail gives this whole kit a very busy appearance. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/08.jpg Ship's boats, rudder, Carlie floats, searchlights and more. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/09.jpg Unfortunately, in the next photo, the camera does not pick up the high level of detail on those singles for instance. A pair of chocks are provided to display the model. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/10.jpg Props, propshafts, and smaller AA, masts... http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/11.jpg No photoetched brass details are provided, so rails at least need to be gleaned from elsewhere. Now for the seaplane base, as follows: (land-based) part of the base with hangar and workshop, http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/12.jpg and the textured seascape and landing area. On the right are boats, handling crane, and vehicles/trolleys http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/13.jpg Below, a closer view of the smaller parts http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/14.jpg and a photo (supplied by the company) of the built and painted article. The aircraft will be available separately, though are not yet in production. http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/delphis/animoso/base.jpg The prices are as follows... first price in pounds, second price in $'s (approx) DM 012 1/700 SEAPLANE DIORAMA 32.29 ($51.66) DM-120 1/350 ANIMOSO 1942 Ciclone Class Torpedo boat, 10 inches long, full hull 59.53 ($95.25) Have also received RM 007 POETI Class WW2 torpedo destroyer 23.62 ($38.00) Please address and further enquiries or orders to me, Caroline. Thanks, CC WEM http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk/ for the back issue archive. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume