Subject SMML01/12/99VOL746 Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 01:13:04 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: What Do You Hate/Love The Most About Ship Modeling? 2: Re: The real meaning of APMA 3: Re: Bikini Navada colrs 4: Re: Resin Kits; engineering there of 5: Modelling ACROMYMS 6: Re: Weathering 7: Re: Painting ships 101 8: Re: Bubbles in resin 9: Re: Memory of colours 10: LST museum, engineering resin kits 11: New Fujimi DDs 12: Painting and Masking in 1/350 (decks etc) 13: Re: RN WW1 colours 14: What's close for an a-bomb? 15: New Member 16: Re: INDEPENDENCE CVL22 17: Re: Painting Decks 18: Bismarck kits ? 19: Missouri on Sep2,1945 20: Tarrant KGV book 21: Re: Bubble canopy 22: Re: Pacific Front Move 23: Re: CVL Independence 24: Re: Torpedo Boat destroyers Pre WW1 25: Re: SMML Topics 26: PE for 1:450 Hasegawa kits 27: Nevada's Bikini Color 28: Re: painting decks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Book for sale 2: December Internet Modeller -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Felix Bustelo" Subject: What Do You Hate/Love The Most About Ship Modeling? Hello all, With Shane and Lorna's permission, how about a new and not controversial thread, as stated in the subject above? Of course I will kick it off. What I Hate Most: Painting the boot tops - I have a hard time making them even and of a consistent width. I honestly prefer using black or white stripe decals, but they get tricky on rounded sterns. What I Love Most: Well, actually finishing a model - but I also love working with photoetch. Yes I am a glutton for punsihment! I am looking forward to hearing responses from the other list members (so what was the final word on the official term for a group of SMMLies?) Regards, Felix Bustelo International Maritime Modeling http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm Hi Felix, as far as I'm concerned it will ALWAYS be a lunacy of SMMLies ;-)) Mistress Lorna -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: The real meaning of APMA >> Shane - still building madly VP APMA (no meaning as yet, but I'm sure someone will come up with something :-» ) << OK, Shane, I accept the challenge. Appreciative Persons Must Associate A Piss & Moan Association Agents Processing Models Anally (or Annually) A Professional Modelling Association or last, but not least, A Personal Madness, Actually Mike Settle Actually Mike, how does "A Personal Mistress, Actually" sound ;-)). Shane ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Bikini Navada colrs >> This would make for a very interesting diorama at the IPMS(International Piss and Moan Society) convention, as I have no doubt how much of a controversy the "Know It All's" would make out of it. << That would be a very interesting entry. Just make sure you have the photo beside it. Rusty White IPMS Head ship judge Building the IS Hood. What a monster! http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Resin Kits; engineering there of >> I'm one of those who would like to see seperately cast hatches, etc. However, from my talks with Jon Warneke over at IS, I realize all those openings might cause problems with separating the models from the molds. Also, like you said, there would be a lot of extra work for the modeler in cleanup/installation. For a novice this could be a problem, while seasoned vets are likely to scratch the parts and drill out the openings they want anyhow. Hard choice. Personally, I like the idea, but who are you marketing the kits toward? << And there is another problem, or challenge, depending on your viewpoint. All of the serious armor modelers who open the hatches on their tanks either detail the interior or block the interior view with a figure, etc. If you are going to have open hatches on a ship model, some detail of the immediate interior, at least, is going to have to be depicted, especially if you are entering said model in a contest. I can hear the judges now, "Hey, look guys, he has an open hatch here on the main deck, but there is no ladder going down to the second deck. And what's this? A hole? He has modeled no second deck at all!" Granted, just a hole or opening might be sufficient in 1/700th scale or smaller, and possibly in 1/350th, but when you have a larger scale, such as the 1/90th scale Firefighter I finished a couple of years ago, interior detail may become a consideration. Mike Settle I am not agent #1908 of the non-existent Lumber Cartel (tinlc)tm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "sctrtrash" Subject: Modelling ACROMYMS Hi Shane: I couldn't resist with all the Hubub over "Judging". APMA - Accurately Professing Modelling Authority. Cheers Mark Krumrey New Richmond WI Where we have had the warmest and Sunniest November since 1899! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Kelvin Mok" Subject: Re: Weathering >> I first paint the ship to look like it has been freshly painted. Then I take separate batches of color that have been lightened or darkened and slightly mottle the color- lighter for highlights and darker for shadow areas and depressions- just to add depth. Then I add darker washes to further accent details, followed by dry brushing with a lighter color for highlights. << This is what I do for my armour models. Paint the correct "factory fresh colors". Drybrush highlights or weather corners, scruff marks, etc with WHITE artists tube acrylics. Artists tube acrylics give much better results than bottled hobby acrylics. If the drybrushed white area is overdone, dilute the original factory colour with acrylic extender (a clear gel available at art supplies stores) until it looks almost transparent and paint that over the overdone drybrushed areas. The effect looks as if the original paint had been scruffed and presents a lighter shade which is distinctly different from the hue of the same paint lightened by mixing with white paint. For example red + white = pink, not a lighter shade of red. Green + white = a sickly green. When done use the clear acrylic extender to paint over the whole model. The effect is similar to that achieved by Future Wax as described in an earlier post. I haven't used Future Wax myself as I am very satisfied with acrylic extender. When comfortable with this technique of painting, try using earth colors like yellow ochre, burnt umber and burnt sienna in artists tube acrylics to add further effects of wear and rust. The results are very satisfactory. Kelvin Mok -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Painting ships 101 >> I have also read a column by Rusty White on holding your airbrush at a 90 degree angle to the deck and using the deck edge as a mask but I'm not sure how you could get adequate paint into all the areas perpendicular to the deck edge. Rusty, no doubt, is just really good at this but I'm not sure I could get the nice demarcation line I'm looking for. << One clarification here. Hold your airbrush at a 45% angle below deck one. The obvious reason I airbrush as much as possible is to prevent brush strokes (a real problem on 1/700 scale models). I paint the decks and apply the markings with an airbrush first. No need to be tidy here. Just blast away and get the decks covered. Next, paint the raised deck details. There's no easy way to do it, so get a magnifier and a brush and get after it. Try the 45% angle technique. You can get to 75% of the model from that angle. You will have to brush paint the bulkheads where they meet the deck. No easy way around it. That's the cross we bear as ship modelers. If you make a mistake, just touch up with the deck color. Be sure all your colors are thinned properly to prevent brush strokes. Try this technique you'll get the hang of it in about five minutes. Paint the hull last. The waterline boot should be masked and painted first, followed by the upper hull and finishing with anti fowling red below the waterline boot. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Bubbles in resin I use thinned Squadron Green Putty on a brush to fill the holes. If the holes are fine enough, an extra coat of paint over the holes may do the trick. I thin Squadron Green Putty with Model Master liquid glue. To avoid sanding away surrounding detail like deck planking, use a soft rag with DENATURED alcohol and rub the putty away. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: Memory of colours Steve, It's true !!! Memory is a very bad reference !!!! Back in the early 50's I spend a good deal of time inside aircraft and the other day I was trying to recall what I know as zink chromate primer and I remember a color much different from any model paint by that name. There is a book just out (and a book on tape) called "Old Man in a Baseball Cap". It is a collection of memories of an old man who, as a young man, was a navigator on B-24's during WWII. One of the stories he tells is about the trip down to Brazil, across the Atlantic, and up through Africa to their base. He remembers every fuel stop with clarity as if it were yesterday, but a check of his logs shows that it never happened the way he remembers so clearly, never having stopped at some of the bases he vividly "remembers". cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Joseph Poutre Subject: LST museum, engineering resin kits Go see http://www.uslst.com - that's the website for the group. It has the latest information. This ship is definately coming home; the bill has been signed. Re: Resin Kits; engineering there of Below 1/500 I wouldn't want to try to glue on hatches and other relatively flat details, even for museum donation pieces. Over 1/500, only on models for donation would I consider it. >> 2). Now about Photo Etch. What's YOUR preferance? cranes & towers ect. that you fold up or solid relief castings in resin? << Anything spindly and see-through I would prefer PE. >> What about railings? How many of you out there actually use them? << At or under 1/500 or so, I use them only for ships for display donation. I don't bother with ones I'm going to keep, except a little for practice. Ships over 1/500 have to have PE rails now that I've seen models with and without it. >> 20 MM Cannon & other light weapons? << Plastic/resin/metal guns and bases with PE shields, plus sights, arm-rests and tripod bases at over 1/600 scale. >> 3). Lastly, what subject(s) would you all like to see next? << What I still need for my big project would be a frigate USS Bronstein and a USS Wichita-class AOR in 1/700. I keep using them as an excuse not to start the rest of the ships. Joe Co-webmaster, Battleship New Jersey Historical Museum Society http://www.bb62museum.org/ Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Alan Lindstrom" Subject: New Fujimi DDs Does anyone know what ships are represented by the new Fujimi 1/700 releases O'Brien and Cushing? They seem pricey at 2500 yen. Alan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Morley, James (London)" Subject: Painting and Masking in 1/350 (decks etc) Well, This is how I do it. First attach the decks to the hull. In some kits this may also include the 1st level superstructure as a 1 piece moulding. Fill gaps between deck and hull, and any seams where deck plates join (fairly common in 1/350). In resin kits this process is usually unnecessary as the hull/deck tends to be a single solid cast. Next, paint the vertical surfaces as normal: hull red, boot topping, hull camoflage etc. When all of these different coats are set, mask off the painted vertical surfaces. In the case of the hull, make sure that there is some tape sticking up above the deck edges, and that it is firmly pressed against the side of the hull at the top, where it meets the deck. Obviously, you can't put photoetch on first., or you'll rip it off with the tape. If you have some deck level 01 structure on top, mask this with one edge of the masking tape where the vertical meets the deck, again press against the side firmly. It would be a wise precaution to cover the lower part of the hull with paper or something (just in case of severe overspray). Spray the deck colour directly down (at 90 deg) onto the decks. Obviously you will be spraying over the various deck fittings. I pick these out myself afterwards by hand, but if this bothers you, you can try masking these as well with a masking fluid-type product. Regards James Morley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Polvi, Henry" Subject: Re: RN WW1 colours I'm yet another newbie modeller learning the ropes, as it were, with more detailed models. The whole USN Navy Blue or grey discussion is interesting, funny how only 58 yrs later there's no consensus on what colour ships were on PH-day. Many years from now people will probably wonder if RAF jets were really pink during the Gulf War, but I digress... Which brings me to my question - I'm building a 1/600 Airfix "Iron Duke" and was wondering about RN WW1 colours - I've seen several b&w photos (no chance of any colour Jutland pics/home movies surfacing) showing various shades of grey on RN battlecruisers. The Humbrol paints recommended by Airfix seem too glossy, especially the deck, which I just started. And PE brass details - they're so small at 1/600 how on earth can you work with them?? Henry W. Polvi Thornhill, ON Canada -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Duane Fowler Subject: What's close for an a-bomb? >>Able was an air drop from a B-29, which missed its mark, the Nevada, by something like 2500 yards, quite a lot.<< Ever since I was a kid I have heard the saying that "Close only counts in horshoes and hand grenades - and atomic bombs." Seems to me that even at 2500 yards, an a-bomb would make a lousy neighbor. Regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "richard eaton" Subject: New Member Hi There, Just plugged in to the list. I've been getting back into the naval building as of late and was pointed your way. I am curretnly researching the background of the WWI Glencoe Subchaser. Can any of you learned ship builders point me to historical or technical info on this 110 footer? Regards Richard Welcome to the list Richard. The more the merrier. Nice PT on this months IM as well. Lorna -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Rick Heinbaugh Subject: Re: INDEPENDENCE CVL22 Per "Aircraft Carriers of the US Navy" by Stefan Terzibaschitsch: > From March '43 until July '43, Air Group 22 was composed of VF-6 & VF-22, both with F6F aircraft. July '43 - Oct '43, Air Group 22 had VF-22 (F6F), VFN-79, VB-22 (SBD), VT-22(TBM) The caption on the photo with the 5"38 (from the A D Baker collection) reads it is taken "Just over three months after entering service, INDEPENDENCE is camouflaged to Measure 14, and has a few SBDs and TBMs on the flight deck forward." Since she was commissioned on 14 Jan '43, the caption must mean the photo is from mid April, so by the above info, Group 22 should only have had F6Fs. Maybe the photo was taken during workups with visiting squadrons doing carrier qualifiications. The hull number is small, just aft of the start of the flight deck. No markings on the hull aft. There are no flight deck numerals visible in photos with the 5"38 in this book (very worn deck & dashed lines) and in the photo in "U.S. Aircraft Carriers" by Norman Friedman. The aerial view in Friedman's book show the flight deck markings freshly painted with no wear. Rick Heinbaugh Bothell, WA where Fall has returned and again, it's like living in a carwash -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Re: Painting Decks Howdy: I also hail from aircraft modeling where masking even the most complex canopies (say a He-111) is simple compared to trying to mask around all the nooks and cranneis of a ship's deck. Clearly, airbrushing is the way to go for big flat parts like he deck and turrets and most of the superstructure. What I have done is airbrushed the deck the proper color and the same for the superstructure parts the proper color before I glue it on...same goes for the turrets and anything else not molded into the deck. I airbrushed the hull from a low angle to keep the deck from being painted. For those parts molded onto the deck, some parts it's easy to mask and airbrush, like a barbette or the metal area on the bow like on the Yamato and Iowa class ships. For other parts I use a paintbrush. Even on parts I airbrush, I don't mask to the edge but rather mask short of the edge then brush paint up to the edge. This makes getting a nice sharp demarcation line at the border of, say, the barbette and deck. Usually the wood deck doesn't go right to the rails but there is a metal rim...which is easily brush painted. So, the airbrush is very useful, but don't forget how useful a good old fashioned brush is. And sure, brush painted colors may come out different than airbrushed colors...I don't worry. Even if a ship is painted all one color, it's seldom exactly the same color all over. Remember, it's not a mistake...it's weathering! Cheers Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Stefan Smets Subject: Bismarck kits ? I was told that the Tamiya and Academy kits of the Bismarck are in fact the same (i.e. same molds); Is that true (I'm not in a position to compare)? The Academy kit is a lot cheaper .. Thanks, Stefan. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Denis & Marilyn Campbell Subject: Missouri on Sep2,1945 Loren Perry wrote yesterday >> The Fine Art Model of the USS Missouri displays the natural wood main deck and 01 level, not the Deck Blue camouflage color as I'd stated yesterday. The natural wood deck would be correct for the period immediately after the surrender ceremony of 2 Sept. 1945 when the crew holystoned the paint off for the last time while en route to Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. The Deck Blue was still in place on the day of the surrender ceremony. << Loren, Does this mean you will be changing the instruction sheet with your ww2 usn battleship fittings set? In those instructions it says that the decks were holystoned "until the natural wood color showed through" for the surrender ceremonies (except for the steel decks, which remained deck blue). Does this mean that although the wood color "showed through" the predominant color was blue with wood tones showing through the blue? Denis Campbell Avon MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: Tarrant KGV book Hi all Just some quick comments about the Arms and Armour reprint of Tarrant's book on the KGV: Text isn't up to much and even though there are interesting snippets it reads as if too much has been borrowed. It also seems to have an inordinate focus on royal visits. The photos are where the book should score because there are a lot of them and there are lots of interesting views. The problem is the reproduction for the most part is extremely poor and lots of detail is obscured. This becomes clearer when you compare them with photos appearing in other books which without exception are better reproduced. This is a major disappointment and one would have thought that more effort could have been made. I certainly would have been happy to pay a lot more for better photographic reproduction. That said it's not totally useless and there is a fair amount of useable detail in it. But whilst I would wholeheartedly recommend the expensive Richelieu book I can't recommend this and suggest that people have a look and then decide whether they want it or not. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Bubble canopy >> This raises another question. What do they do with the planes when the main guns were fired. The blast effects would have demolished them. << That's precisely what happened aboard SOUTH DAKOTA at Guadalcanal. Her first main battery salvo ignited all three planes on the fantail, lighting her up like a torch for Japanese gunners. Fortunately the next salvo blew 2 of them over the side and extinguished the 3rd. Normally, however, they'd have been airborne and spotting main battery fire. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Pacific Front Move >>Roseburg, a small (pop. 20,000) country town with no known shoestores. I might offer up the following excerpts from our local paper, the Roseburg News-Review. These items are actual incidents from the daily Police and Sheriffs Logs, and I thought might better portray the flavor of life in a small town than numerous stilted Visitors and Travelers Bureau brochures: << Who cares about shoestores, Bill? Does it have ANOTHER hobby shop, or do you have the town to yourself? I also get similar quality news articles in the local paper of our small New England town of 24,000. People always express amazement that I still read the New York Times..... Good luck in your new location! Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Marc Flake Subject: Re: CVL Independence According to Friedman's U.S. Aircraft Carriers, Independence class carriers shipped 12 fighters, nine bombers and nine torpedo bombers. A photo of the Independence in March 1943 does not have the deck numbers. A photo of sister ship Monterey in June 1943 also has no deck numbers. On deck are three F6Fs. That's the best I can do. Marc Flake Tarrant County, Texas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Torpedo Boat destroyers Pre WW1 >> I would like to see some of the Pre World War 1British and American Torpedo Boat destroyers in Resin or Injection (hah! fat chance), maybe in 1/350 would be a nice scale or 1/192. << Lone Star makes a kit of the Winslow in 1/192 scale and Gulfstream made a Bainbridge (DD1) The Bainbridge is oop but the Winslow is available Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: SMML Topics Tom... The reason I haven't picked up a knife or paint brush in recent years is... 1) over the last ten years, most of my tools went the way of the trash man. No great loss, because I didn't have that many to begin with (my ex wife got to keep most of them when we divorced back in 87 for her figure modeling), and those I had were completely worn out. Anything that could be refurbished was kept (and is currently in storage). 2) lack of money to obtain new tools, supplies, etc. Nuff said. 3) lack of space for a workbench and display. My den (re: garage) is stacked to the rafters right now with items we brought back from my Dad's place after he died this past April. The house suffers from the same problem. Until my mom and I are able to work the problem, this situation isn't likely to change. We both have personal problems right now that have prevented us from tackling the problem. 4) Modeling is only one of a number of hobbies I have. As far as intimidating goes...maybe overwhelmed would be a better description. As I've said, the only modeling I've done has been with injection kits, built out of the box per the instructions. Read, not historically accurate, nothing to write home about. That said, when reading posts here I pick up on a lot of things I would've never thought about in the past. That makes me wonder...what else have I not thought about. Mike C's post on weathering for example. Although very informative, it touched upon issues I'd never even thought about. Research is another factor here. Don't get me wrong here, I was a history major when I was in college earlier this decade, so doing research is one of my pasttimes. One of the hardest things about research is identifying issues you need to research (which goes back to techniques, etc). Likewise, my resources are limited, as is the selection at our local library and my bank account (I need a new-used car, nuff said). That makes it hard to start work on a project because I haven't properly researched it as of yet (and would like to avoid relying on the instructions as I've done in the past). I can think of a number of books (basic ship modeling, USN camoflauge, Friedman's US Cruisers, Anatomy of a Ship-Yamato, Squadron's US Battleships, the new Atlanta cl Cruisers book, etc) I need to do some of the projects I wish to do. Some of these are out of print and/or are somewhat expensive. Goes back to that wallet problem again. The only good thing about this is most of the subjects I want to model are USN WWII era ships and most of those are in 1:700. There are a few exceptions such as HMS Argonaut, HMCS Bonaventure, Dutch De Zeven Provincien, French Jean Bart & De Grasse, IJN Yamato, Kumano, and Yukikaze, etc. Some of these I'll have to scratch, but they the lowest on the list too (to allow me to gain experience first). There's also a few "what if" models I'd like to do, but all of those will require some degree of scratchbuilding. Because of this, my strategy is kits first, research materials second, tools third. Kits first because some of the ones I want are made by cottage industries and may disappear without warning. I don't want to lose because I snoozed (or procrastinated too long). Research materials for the most part are available for longer periods of time, so that's why they're listed second. Tools should always be available, so they're last. This also insures I don't jump into a project until I've properly researched the topic (and explored tips, tricks, and techniques). Of course, there is a limit to this. Eventually I will have to start work on one of the kits I have. Similarly, there are exceptions to this policy. Harder to find research materials outrank injection kits that will probably be around longer than the books/plans. With tools, I'll probably pick up the basics and build up from there as I need them. Same with supplies (which I lump in with tools). Any good deals I find also break the rules (that 1:350 Tamiya Yamato for $40 being a good example). . That's why I haven't started anything as of yet, and why I'm a bit overwhelmed by the information here. Yet, if it wasn't being brought forth, the concept may never have occurred to me. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: PE for 1:450 Hasegawa kits Are there any PE sets that would be suitable for use on the Hasegawa 1:450 scale ships. I'm considering giving my Yamato to a friend, but I'd like to be able to direct him to a place where he might be able to get PE parts should he decide to build it up properly. Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Ed Grune Subject: Nevada's Bikini Color The US Naval History Center's Art Gallery currently has an online exhibit of paintings and sketches made during the Bikini Atoll atomic tests. Check the following link. http://www.history.navy.mil/ac/bikini/bikini1.htm They have the Nevada in her Orange dress. Its not a good enough picture for you to detail her completely, but there's the backup material you need when you put the orange Nevada on the table and dare the judge to tell you its wrong. Ed Mansfield, TX When is S&S going to revise their USN chip set to include Bikini Orange? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Mitsuaki Kubota Subject: Re: painting decks Dear Mr. lay >> I have also read a column by Rusty White on holding your airbrush at a 90 degree angle to the deck and using the deck edge as a mask but I'm not sure how you could get adequate paint into all the areas perpendicular to the deck edge. << I usually paint the deck first and spray the vertical surfaces as Mr. White mentioned. Surely, demarcation lines between the deck and vertical surfaces aren't painted, especially athwartship verticall surfaces. Also the same small details on the deck like ventilators, lockers, cable holders. So I have to touch up the vertical surfaces with small-tipped brushes. It is very difficult to mask the deck except the vertical surfaces and small deck fittings, I think above method is practical. Although I should care sprays not to splash on the deck. If you are afraid of overpainting to the deck when touchinng up the vertical surfaces, I recommend the method as follows. Firstly painting the deck and allow to dry, then engraving lines slightly between the deck and vertical surfaces. This line will work as it is like "dam". Paints on the vertical surfaces will stop there, but be careful not to soak the brushes to paints. Best regards, Mitsuaki Kubota Tokyo, Japan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Percy, John" Subject: Book for sale Hello everyone, I have the following book for sale: "Navies of WWII: An illustrated history" by Antony Preston. 221 pages, many many pictures, drawings, battle plans. Covers the following topics: The Royal Navy 1939-1941 The Italian and French Navies Naval Operations Sep 1939-Dec 1941 The German Navy The US Navy The Imperial Japanese Navy The Battle of the Atlantic Amphibious Warfare Midway to Okinawa Price: $30 - includes shipping (by US Priority Mail), insurance, and delivery confirmation. Will ship to US and its territories only. Payment is to be by money order only, please (US post office has them cheap). Respond to jpercy@clariion.com if interested. Thank you, and long live SMML! John Percy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Shane Subject: December Internet Modeller Hi gang, Since Bob hasn't announced it yet, I'll do it for him ;-) The December issue of IM is up & live, with a very nice Revell 1/72 PT article by Richard Eaton. Also an inbox review of the Skywave 1/700 Liberty. As well as all the usual stuff. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk/ for the back issue archive. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume