Subject: SMML VOL 819 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 01:57:27 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Royal Navy WWII Mediterranean Fleet Grey Color 2: RN Set #2 - Humbrol Matches 3: Re: New ship modeler questions 4: SMMLies on TV 5: CHECK SIX 1/2400 WWI model ships 6: Bismarck information 7: Re: Photographing Ships 8: Re: New Ship Modeler 9: Re: Y2K and Internet Problems 10: ICM 1/350 SMS Konig 11: CVAN-65 12: Colpar Hobbies 13: USS Yancey AKA-93 14: Wisswesser Plans 15: WWII USN Oilers 16: photo etch 17: Re: New Ship Modeler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: International Maritime Modeling Update 2: BOOKS FOR SALE 3: Warship Books shipping price changes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dimitrios Apostolopoulos Subject: Re: Royal Navy WWII Mediterranean Fleet Grey Color In response to Miguel Costa's question: Miguel, The color you are referring to is most probably 507C. If you use Humbrol enamels you can get a good match to 507C by mixing 50% H64 and 50% H34 white, or if you do not like mixing colors, H147 is a good choice. Dimi -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Dimitrios Apostolopoulos Subject: RN Set #2 - Humbrol Matches I have received the second set of Royal Navy paints by Snyder & Short and at first glance and some preliminary mixing it seems that the following are good Humbrol matches: G5 - H33 black + H67, approximately 3:1 G10 - H67 B15 - H97 + H34 white, approximately 3:1 B20 - H144 + H34 white, approximately 5:1 B55 - H28 G20, B30 and G45 are more challenging. B20 should be a 50/50 mix of B15 and B30. Dimi -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: New ship modeler questions >> My question is, should I try a plastic kit (i.e. Tamiya's Prince of Wales, which I recently purchased) first using a PE set to get experience before I try a resin kit? << Absolutely. This will allow to you get the "feel" how super glue works (drying time, thickness and application) which will serve you well on future projects. The difference between how resin models are assembled is not that much different from plastic kits. The only thing you would need to master is sanding down the parts and making minor repairs. I would also suggest you begin with a smaller plastic kit such as the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher. There's no complicated bending needed to apply the photo etch and the kit fits together very nicely. Because of it's smaller size, you won't get bogged down in endless photo etch, so you will quickly see the results of your work. I've been working on the IS Hood for 4 weeks. There were times when I couldn't notice any difference in the model after a weeks work. It's easy to get discouraged when building big models so I would suggest you start small and work up. >> Secondly, what is a good resin kit for beginners, and should I start off with a cruiser or destroyer before I try a battleship? << There are several good choices. Any of the BWN 1/350 Fletcher destroyers are good beginners kits for same reasons I stated above. Also, the JAG Collective 1/350 USS Asheville is small and will give you the experience you need to break into resin kits. The Asheville costs about $38.00 but a resin battleship can cost well over $200.00. So if you're going to screw (I sure have in the past) one up, then screw up a $38.00 model. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: SMMLies on TV Unfortunately I missed Dimi on Tomorrow's World but I did see at least one SMMLie on a programme about Midway a year or so ago. However, given the recent thread about ambassadors, perhaps those of us who are blessed with such fame should take the opportunity to wear a SMML T-shirt to give some publicity! I recall a couple that I met via my AFV modelling and who had been on a ferry accident in the Channel a few years ago appearing on a programme about the disaster wearing their MAFVA T-shirts! Robert Lockie Cambridge UK I volunteer to measure Sandra Bullock for her SMML T-shirt..... No, Robert. That's the listmaster's priveledge ;-þ. Which means you can measure her up for a Thinktank T-shirt ;-). Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: GHE101@aol.com Subject: CHECK SIX 1/2400 WWI model ships I have heard of a company named Check Six that is located on 13 Stanmore Road, Belvedere, Kent, DA17 6EB, United Kingdom. They produce a line of WWI 1/2400 ships, at least according to TMP. But I have no experience with this concern, and I am wondering if any one out there has seen any of their products. It would be very nice if we had another model producer to compliment GHQ, C-in-C, Viking, and Superior, Panzershiffe, etc., but this is a new one on me. What ships do they make? Are they well detailed, down to anchor chains and life boats? Do they make a Mackensen or early Hood? I need some info, and this seems the place to go. So perhaps you Brit's can help me out here. From across the pond, Dr. George H. Elder -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "EJ Foeth" Subject: Bismarck information For quality drawings, write to: http://www.christian-schmidt.com/ they have a series of 6 1:100 drawings in stock by a certain german modeling group (forgot name). They can also help you to drawings by a H. Gally. Also 1:100, 4 of them. The latter is drawn slightly thinner, the former covers more portions of the ship. Fortunately, they agree on everything drawn. They are expensive, however, more so that Floating Drydock plans , but they are of exceptional quality (Anatomy of the ship style). German colour chips should be available from Snyder and Short Enterprises (out yet?) and, considering their products, worth purchasing. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. EJ Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: Photographing Ships Hi Guys Concerning photos I have two things I have two things to discuss. First the Floating Dry dock has recently updated it's two books USS MISSOURI BB-63 and USS YORKTOWN CV-10-with new photos and layout. The Missouri is now a museum in Hawaii and is docked at Ford Island incidentally they built a bridge that connects to Ford Island. When did they do this? Also the ship history also covers the Gulf war. As to photographing ships Arjun Sarup you aren't alone on this. It makes interesting point to picture taking risks. I have a few stories to share. I know a guy who visited a US sub base where Ohio Class subs operate from and was invited to visit by an officer who he knew and started to take pictures had a marine guard approach and raise his M-16 rifle to stop as he wasn't told about photos being taken that day at the drydock.An the officer was also there. When I go to Phillie to see open house navy ships I've been told that the USN allows photos of ships on the outside but not on the inside. Once a large number of sailing ships came I think in '92 and they were also naval or maritime training ships for their respected countries anyway one of these ships had female midshipmen on them so they got liberty and were in street clothes and they looked good like girls. Ah to be 20 yrs younger. So they started to hang out with some locals drinking beer in front of the training ship and after maybe a half hour one of them smiled at a local boy. Not long after that an officer and sailors from the ship appear out numbering the situation and was going to take them back on board when the local started yelling ah something like your authority ended on the ship and who do you think are bleep, bleep and the guy walked up and punched him knocking him down and addressed the group to leave immediately or the police will be called. They immediately left. Back to the ship the ladies went with an old man in an officer uniform waiting at the end of the ramp on the ship with many stripes on his sleeves. A sailor in that group sent out told a local to put his camera down at the time of the situation occurred who was near by. I figured I'd share that with you and the others any one else. Maybe you shouldn't pull your camera out until you ask first, see India, is another country and I don't know anything about your legal system. Any one else have any stories. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Mike Subject: Re: New Ship Modeler Kyle wrote :- >> My question is, should I try a plastic kit (i.e. Tamiya's Prince of Wales, which I recently purchased) first using a PE set to get experience before I try a resin kit? Secondly, what is a good resin kit for beginners, and should I start off with a cruiser or destroyer before I try a battleship? I have been subscribing to SMML for about a month now and would really appreciate your opinions. << Hi Kyle, welcome aboard. You'll no doubt get a LOT of answers to this one! For what it's worth, here's my two-penn'orth, as I was in a similar position not that long ago. If you haven't done a resin kit before, try & get hold of a reasonably cheap one in a large scale that you like - don't limit yourself to ships to practice on either! There are a lot of resin models available at reasonable prices. A good resin kit for beginners would be a small vessel at a large scale - 1/350 or bigger. For PE, I would suggest looking for a popular low-cost kit that has PE available at a decent price. Use this as a practice ship - you may decide that PE isn't for you! I'm slowly doing the frigate HMS Amazon with the WEM PE. As & when I finish her, I'm moving on to more ambitious vessels, and will migrate to PE on resin (I already do resin, in SF models) late this year (or whenever WEM's Leander comes out!). Keep the PoW for when you've tried PE - you'll save money and maybe the entire model this way. PE isn't the easiest thing in the world to do - it's very fiddly, requires great patience, and a lot of research. It's worth trying, but start small & see if you like it. If you don't - well, you haven't paid out a fortune! Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Mike Subject: Re: Y2K and Internet Problems Just to follow on from Loren's mail. As someone working in the IT industry, and trained in electronic mail systems, I'd like to take this oppertunity to confirm Loren's mail re the problems with email. From the very beginning, electronic mail has been a non-guaranteed mail system. Makes no difference if you use Macs, PC's or any other computer, nor what your operating system &/or mail software is - no-one has EVER said it will get through. Normally, the Internet will be able to realise that there is a problem with a mail not being delivered, and will tell you - but not always. There is a big black hole out there that a small proportion of messages fall into & are never seen again....... The basic rule we use is this - if the message can be delivered, it will be. But it can take up to five full days. If you have had no response after a week either the mail has failed (you should have received messages from the server about this), it's fallen into the black hole (you'll not get anything about this), or it's waiting in a mailbox somewhere, read or unread. If I haven't had a response after a week, I re-send the mail saying that it appears not to have been received by them, and if I still get no response I phone them. Best of luck with your mails! Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: ICM 1/350 SMS Konig I was able to speak with Mrs. Lipovich of ICM today, and was told that the 1/350 kit of the Konig would be in the U.S. by late March. The retail price will be $90.00, but I was told that this kit would be available in limited quantities. Mrs. Lipovich also told me that the 1/350 HMS Hood was well underway, and they were aiming for a September 2000 release date. No price on the Hood kit as of now. The quality of other kits I have seen from ICM in their armor range was quite good, almost Tamiya quality, so if they can do that with their ship kits, we are in for a treat. Steve Wiper -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "John Snyder" Subject: CVAN-65 I just received the latest catalog from Paul Gaudette Books in Tucson, Arizona, and they list the following: Item #110. USS ENTERPRISE CVAN-65 - 1974-1975. American Yearbook Co., 1977. 368 pages, profuse photos, 9 x 12. The 1976-77 yearbook for the Westpac cruise of the USS ENTERPRISE. $60.00. You can reach them at 1-800-874-3097. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "hugh1lottie2" Subject: Colpar Hobbies Colpar Hobbies has 1:1500 cruise ships "Holiday, Jubilee and Celebration". Alexander Resin Ships are cast white resin. They are detailed, easy to build kits with a minimum number of pieces. These kits include traditional stickers for markings and color photos for painting. They are also available as prebuilt, and prefinished displays with a display case. A great souvenir from that whiney, bitchy IPMS Cruise you went on last summer. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Kdg345@aol.com Subject: USS Yancey AKA-93 Dear Sirs: I am just starting a 1/96 scale model of the USS Yancey AKA-93. I have a fiberglas hull model and many pictures, but no plans. I hope to be able to get some plans but don't quite know where to start. Thank you, Ken Groom -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: SolidStump@aol.com Subject: Wisswesser Plans I know they are not particularly detailed but it raises a question with me. They are the only plans I know of that have hull lines & sections for US pre war battleships. What hull plans did Tom's et al use for their Pearl Harbor Californias and West Virginias? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: WWII USN Oilers I don't recall seeing this posted here before, but those looking for info and pics of USN WWII era AOs, check out this site. http://metalab.unc.edu/hyperwar/USN/ships/ships-ao.html I actually managed to find a few good pics of the Neosho there tonight (woo-hoo!). Now if I could find a model of a T3-S2-A1!! Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Kenneth Perry Subject: photo etch Hello, I need some opinions here. I'd like some input on some good photo etch sets for the Dragon Tico/Spruance kits, Tamiya modern New Jersey, and Tamiya Yamato, all in 1/350 scale. Also, any places that would be able to blow these sets up to 1/96 or 1/72 scale? Thanks. Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: James Corley Subject: Re: New Ship Modeler >> I have recently gotten back into modeling after a few years off [snip] I would really like to start a collection of 1/350 resin battleships. My question is, should I try a plastic kit (i.e. Tamiya's Prince of Wales, which I recently purchased) first using a PE set to get experience before I try a resin kit? Secondly, what is a good resin kit for beginners, and should I start off with a cruiser or destroyer before I try a battleship? I have been subscribing to SMML for about a month now and would really appreciate your opinions. << I would suggest going the inexpensive route for the first kit, just to see if you like it. There are several smaller kits out now, for less than $70 or so, that would be good strarter subjects. There are several WW2 & Modern subs. The WW2 kits have more railings, of course, and a whole new line of WW2 small combatants. There are also some modern small ships out there, including a ASHEVILLE class PG from Vietnam.If you kike that, then move into a frigate or destroyer.Build your skills gradually, working your way into the more diffucult kits. If you keep it cheap for your first go, and dont like it much, you're not out all that much money. I'd rather see somebody get into it that way than go all out dropping several hundred for a huge kit, screwing it up and deciding not to waste more money in the future. I think I can speak for the other manufacturers here in saying that we want repeat customers -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Felix Bustelo" Subject: International Maritime Modeling Update Hello All, I am pleased to announce the January/February 2000 update of International Maritime Modeling. http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm The update includes: Photos of Georges Gazuit's 1/400 scale diorama of the evolution of French aircraft carriers, Jim Gavrilles' card models of the RMS Titanic and the SS United States and Bob Santos' 1/192 scale USS Panay diorama in the Photo Gallery. A review of Revell's classic Harbor Tug kit and an update of the Airfix Manxman review to include photos of the kit in Quick Kit Reviews. A review of the White Ensign Models 1/600 scale HMS Ajax detail set in Photoetch Reviews. A review of the new French language journal Navires & Histoire in Book Reviews. Related updates to the Links page. Please stop by for a visit. Felix Bustelo Webmaster -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: CokerRE@aol.com Subject: BOOKS FOR SALE Alden, the Fleet Submarine in the US Navy, 1985 $25.00 Archibald, The Metal Fighting Ship in the Royal Navy 1860-1970, 1971 $40.00 Brouwer, International Register of Historic Ships, 1985 $40.00 Friedman, The Postwar Naval Revolution, 1986 $30.00 Lambert, Battleships in Transition, the Creation of the Steam Battlefleet 1815-1860, 1984 $30.00 Preston, Cruisers, An Illustrated History 1880-1980, 1980 $30.00 Showell, U-Boats under the Swastika, 1988 $25.00 Stewart, Ghost Fleet of the Truk Lagoon, 1985 $12.00 Sumrall, Iowa Class Battleships, 1988 $30.00 Please reply off list to PC Coker at cokerre@aol.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Warship Books shipping price changes Hi group. I would like to announce that Warship Books is reducing most of its shipping charges. The new rates are as follows: Canada 1 book $3Cdn, 2 books $6 Cdn, 3 books $7Cdn. USA 1 book $4US, 2 books $7 US, 3 books $10US(same) Int'l 1 book $8US, 2 books $12US(same), 3 book $20US(way up, thank you Canada Post!!) For those of you that emailed with an order I will be contacting you shortly, to find out if you wish a refund or a credit. For those of you that mailed in an order, you will receive a refund. I am still taking orders for the Warship Perspective Corvette book by John Lambert, I hope the reduction in the rates will help the fence sitters. I have the Atlanta and Fletcher books available for immediate delivery. Thanks Keith Butterley http://www3.telus.net/warshipbooks/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume