Subject: SMML VOL 863 Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 23:30:05 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Hood Colors 2: Re: Coontz Class Model 3: Ballasting a hull and clear casting 4: Re: IJN DD Hatsuzuki 25mm fit/ IJN CV Taiho 5: Re: Cleaning kits, itty bitty aircraft and Museum ships 6: Re: Missouri Question 7: Adding Ballast 8: Need Revell U.S.S. Kearsage Instructions 9: Re: Classic Warships Pennsylvania Conversion 10: USS Missouri models 11: Re: Copyright 12: Re: Copyrights 13: Coontz (Farragut) Class DLG/DDG Model Kit 14: Re: Soviet Golf II 15: Re: Calypso model 16: Re: Ship Museums. 17: Re: Ship Museum - addition note. 18: JMSDF MUSEUM 19: USS Pennsy Conversion 20: USS Tarawa/FSM 21: Copyright 22: Re: Ballast 23: Re: Casting and copyright 24: Re: copyrights 25: C.F. Adams class Photographs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: IPMS U.K. "MODELWORLD 2000" World Class Open Compeition and Millennium Event 2: Gakken 17 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "FCR" Subject: Hood Colors Hello SMMLies I believe that this subject was already discussed here but I need urgently of answers for it. On the next two week-ends I am going to lead one naval modelism formation class and the model that the "students" are going to build and detail is the HMS Hood from Italeri, at 1/720. I already have this model for a while but only now I have saw that the instructions sheets don't indicate no reference to paints. They only said Dark Grey to the ship color, Natural Wood to the decks, etc, etc, etc. The model represents the ships before the WWII refit, I believe. Now can anyone please say to me what are the best references to the colors of this model (ship color, decks). Humbrol, Revell, Testors and Tamyia paints. Thanks in advance. Filipe C. Ramires PORTUGAL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Coontz Class Model The old Renwal DLGs in 1/500 scale didn't count because they were totally inaccurate. If you're a masochist you can buy one via eBay pretty regularly. It was boxed as DEWEY, FARRAGUT, and KING in the 1960s. You'll need to waterline it and scratchbuild 90%. The short-lived kit in 1/250 scale by the Ship Model Shop is apparently long out of production. Too bad, it was an early multimedia kit (wood hull with metal and brass fittings), fun to build and more affordable than many comparable resin kits today. See a few KING photos in the gallery on the Warship web site. Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Erwin Van Deynze Subject: Ballasting a hull and clear casting >> I melted a couple of chunks of paraffin wax and poured it into the bottom of the hull. Now, when you pick up the model it "feels" like a real boat . . . doesn't feel like a cheesy poof plastic model any more. It has some real mass. Good ole mass. Feels real good when you hold it out at eye level. << I did the same thing once, Only I used epoxy resin, Reason was to have something sturdier than 1 mil of styrene to bolt the hull on its stand. All went well until the chemical reaction between the epoxy-resin and the hardener really started, The heat was so great I couldn't hold it in my hands anymore, a quick run to the bathroom for an immersion in water didn't help : I had a nice, bent down hull... a bent I never was able to correct... As my previous experience shows I am clearly an expert in casting, so I can safely answer the other gentlemen's question on casting pieces in clear resin. No kiddin' I've been casting myself some parts also in clear resin for my Sci-Fi models. There are various resins on the market, that are as clear as water. The one I used I bought in an art-supply store. Beware though, the pieces seem to be more brittle than regular resin, and the mixing ratio seems also more critical than with regular resin (try to get that right with a ratio of 2% and about 20 ml needed !). Erwin Who just loves to experiment, and underway blow half of his kits to damnation... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Dboykap@aol.com Subject: Re: IJN DD Hatsuzuki 25mm fit/ IJN CV Taiho To Richard: Specific documentation on the Hatsuzuki's fit in Oct.'44 seems a bit thin, at least in English I can come up with nothing specific; however, Jentschura (and Watts) suggest that all the class survivors had an AA upgrade in June'44 to 25-29 25mm AA plus a mix of 13mm AA. Using the the mods performed on the sisters as a guide, I would think it almost a certainty that the rear HA director was removed and replaced by a platform with a triple 25mm AA mount. Whether or not two triple 25mm AA mounts were emplaced to either side of the searchlight on raised platforms is more open to interpetation, as would be the placement of single 13 or 25mm mounts. Since no source material seems to contain a definitve answer, your guess is best. Or, wait for the recently released but mysteriously unavailable Gakken book on the Akizukis in the hopes of something more definitive. To Mike I would agree with Dave Swindell in that the Taiho was most probably painted grey; the camouflage mods for IJN carriers seems not to have occurred until after the June'44 Battle of the Phillipine Sea. The considerable loss of front-line carriers (Taiho, Shokaku, Hiyo) probably helped prompt the change in the vague hope of countering further losses. As to the actual shade of grey carried by the Taiho, there is only conjecture. I wrested with this very question about a year ago. Unlike the 4 different shades of grey associated with the magor IJN naval dockyards best identified by the S & S paint chips (Yokosuka, Kure, Sasebo, & Maizuru), the actual shade of grey associated with the Kawasaki Dockyard in Kobe remains to be identified. So, your guess will be as is as good as anyone's. Incidentally, this question would also apply to Zuikaku and Hiyo, at least as built, as they too were constructed by Kawasaki, Kobe. Of course, they saw for more service and were subject to multiple refits and repaints whereas the Taiho almost certainly carried her original paint for her short career. For what it's worth aesthetically, I had a lazy moment and painted my Taiho with Tamiya Neutral Grey XF-53. If I were to do it all over again (and I can't see how at this point), I would choose a darker color, something like the Yokosuka Grey. The beautifully detailed 1/500 Taiho in the Gakken book mentioned by Dave is a darker tone and it just looks right. Dan Kaplan, NYC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: TCAgardner@aol.com Subject: Re: Cleaning kits, itty bitty aircraft and Museum ships James, I should warn you that epoxy resin does not have a warm and fuzzy relationship with RTV. In most cases, the epoxy will stick to the mold just as if you had poured urethane resin into a urethane mold, voila! one piece of urethane that has no other function than an unattractive paperweight. There are urethane resins that are "optically clear" and are castable into RTV molds (Platinum based). One company is Smooth On and they are located in Trenton, NJ I believe. If you have any more queries let me know. Best, Tom Gardner -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Re: Missouri Question Howdy: In my research on the Mo, I have often wondered about the same thing. In the photos where the #1 turret is turned all the way around, I was told it was to help keep things dry. Since the #1 turret was so close to the waterline and farthest forward, it tended to get quite wet. It got wet enough that in 1949 (I think) the #1 turret's rangefinder ears were removed. But all that's for the #1 turret, why they'd have the #2 turret spun around and not #1 I don't know. Could it have been only for some incidental reason and not necessarily a matter of regular procedure? Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Adding Ballast Howdy: I've had the idea of adding ballast before, and when I built my Arizona I forgot to add the weight before I glue the deck down (doe!). I might add the proper weight to my 1/350 Missouri. I think, in addition to the model having the right heft, that it'll be safer since the model will be less likely to slide around or be knocked over. If not the Mo, then I'll definately do it for my 1/200 Yamato. The only problem is that while a 1:350 Missouri weighs in at 2.6 lbs (just over a kilo) but a 1/200 Yamato tips the scales at 18 lbs (over 8 kilos)!!! In comparison, my first ship effort, the 1/426 Arizona would come in at merely 13oz. The formula for calculating scale weight is simply: (ship's displacement) * (scale)^3 That is, you multiply the displacement of the ship in whatever units you want (kilos, tons, points) by the cube of the scale. There is one thing that I want to be sure on. When a ship's displacement is quoted in tons, is that always english tons and never metric tons or some other wierd ton...i.e. 1 ton = 2000 lbs?? That's what I've always assumed (and assumed above) but never actually asked. Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Charles Stephanian Subject: Need Revell U.S.S. Kearsage Instructions A friend is looking for a photocopy of the instruction sheet for the Revell U.S.S. Kearsage kit. If anyone can help, he'll be glad to pay any costs involved. Please email me (he's a non-computer bloke) and we can work out the details. Thanks!!! Charles T. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Jean-Paul Binot" Subject: Re: Classic Warships Pennsylvania Conversion >> I was at a model show in Houston today and came across the Classic Warships conversion kit for the 1/426 Revell Arizona to USS Penn, 1945 fit. All the parts appear to be there, but there is only one very generic instruction sheet. I'll bet I can get some good advice from a couple of people on this list as to which of the many cool resin parts go where. I'd been wanting a true late war Penn, so this kit is a real unexpected surprise. Any help is greatly appreciated. << Tim, I wasn't aware that Classic Warships produced such a conversion kit, and cannot find any mention of it on their web site. It is great news anyway since Pennsylvania was a great ship, and the Revell kit is amazingly good for its age and cost. I am in the middle of a similar conversion project, using the Revell Arizona as an early war (March 42) Pennsylvania. While at that time the ship was reasonably close to the last configuration of the Arizona 'as portrayed by Revell), it is still a bit of a challenge because they were not exact sister ships (very different bridge structure, larger armored conning tower, different cranes, etc.). Also many parts in the Revell kit need to be replaced, and at that scale about everything needs to be scatchbuilt... If CW were to produce 1/426 Kingfisher floatplanes, I would be most interested, though... However, in the process of collecting information for my project, I also have amassed data on Pennsylvania's later configuration (as of October 42), which is much better documented anyway. I'll be happy to help if you can be more specific about what you'd like to know. Best regards, Jean-Paul -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Gene Wisner" Subject: USS Missouri models Being a USS Missouri fan I would like to build models of each of the ships named Missouri. In my research I have found that there were 4 ships named Missouri (although some of my sources say there were only 3). The first Missouri was a side-wheel frigate launched in 1841. She was a steam powered vessel but also carried 19,000 square feet of sail. The second Missouri was a Confederate ironclad, stern paddle-wheel steamer. The third was a battleship of the Maine class. And the fourth was of the Iowa class. Before I begin this project I would like to know that I can find all the information that I need. I have plenty of information for BB-63, I have plans, etc, etc, etc. For BB-11 I should be able to find plenty of information on the USS Maine. Were there any differences between the Maine(BB10) and the Missouri(BB11)? I believe that Taubman has plans for USS Maine. Are there any other sources that would help me here? For the first 2 ships named Missouri I have been able to find no information. The few Civil War books I have, have no information on the Missouri. And for the side-wheel frigate I don't really know where to start. I would greatly appreciate any help you could give me to find sources of information for any of these ships. Thanks in advance, Gene Wisner -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Gene Larson Subject: Re: Copyright Richa5011@aol.com wrote: >> 2. In the US the law reads inpart, "Copies may be made only for personal or scholarly use, and may not be sold, republished or otherwise distributed in any way.". What this means in plain english is that, if I find a rare book in the library, I can legally make a xerox copy for myself, but I can not sell or give away xerox copies, or reset the type and republish the book without violation of copyright. (etc) << We in the NRG have been trying to resolve copyright questions just for clarification for future use. I think the above statement goes a little too far. There are limits on the fair use of material still under copyright. I have not read the above statement in the booklet "Copyright Law of the United States of America". Please give page and paragraph reference, as this is important. I don't think an entire book can be copied for personal use if still under copyright. From the U.S. Govt. booklet I quote the following limitations, which clearly state that an entire work cannot be copied (3): 107. Limitations on exclusive rights: Fair use Notwithstanding the provisions of sections 106 and 106A, the fair use of a copyrighted work, including such use by reproduction in copies or phonorecords or by any other means specified by that section, for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching (including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or research, is not an infringement of copyright. In determining whether the use made of a work in any particular case is a fair use the factors to be considered shall include- (1) the purpose and character of the use, including whether such use is of a commercial nature or is for nonprofit educational purposes; (2) the nature of the copyrighted work; (3) the amount and substantiality of the portion used in relation to the copyrighted work as a whole; and (4) the effect of the use upon the potential market for or value of the copyrighted work. The fact that a work is unpublished shall not itself bar a finding of fair use if such finding is made upon consideration of all the above factors. Copyright on very old material will soon expire, as explained in the following quoted material from another source: "The basic rule for works created after January 1, 1978, whether published or not, is that copyright lasts for the life of the author plus 70 years. On the other hand, if the work was created before 1978, but never published, a complex set of rules applies. The pre-1978 law granted "common-law" copyright for works that remained unpublished. A family snapshot or a manuscript in the desk drawer had "common-law" privileges, and the statutory privileges began only upon publication. A principal difference between the pre-1978 statutory and common-law regimes was that statutory rights lasted only for the limited period, while common-law rights lasted in perpetuity-forever-as long as the work remained unpublished. "Congress finally brought an end to perpetual copyrights as of 1978 and subjected the older, unpublished works to a statutory term of protection, now life plus 70 years. "To prevent abrupt termination of long-standing copyrights, however, the law provides that none of the former common-law rights will expire until after December 31, 2002. Thus, in 2003 and in each subsequent year, the unpublished works of authors who died 70 years earlier will enter the public domain. Until then, the privileges of copyright and the limits of fair use apply to the manuscripts, letters, and diaries of even America's leading historical figures." Gene Larson, Alexandria, Virginia Nautical Research Guild, Inc. http://www.Naut-Res-Guild.org "A non-profit, tax exempt, charitable, educational organization with international membership, dedicated to maritime research and accurate ship model building." -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "James Johnson" Subject: Re: Copyrights I'm sorry, I must be dense, but I just don't understand everything I know about copyrights. First of all, if someone makes something, don't they have to copyright it? If I write a best selling novel and I don't copyright it, someone else can copy it word for word and sell it on the market and I can't do any thing about it. I assume that the large and small manufactures take the time to go through the procedure. If they just say "this is copyrighted", it ain't necessarily so. As I understand it, they have to file with the copyright office, and of course pay a fee. I wonder if cottage business goes to this bother. If I do a perfect model of the HMS Hood and you do a perfect model of the HMS Hood, won't the two models be exactly the same? Do I sue you if my model is out first, even though you did not copy mine? Could the RN sue us for duplicating their ship without permission? Car modelers have to pay a license fee to many of the manufactures and/or race teams if they want to duplicate their cars in miniature. If we use the same inaccurate reference and make the same mistake in our models, is this proof that you copied from me or I copied from you? I see a lot of common equipment in ship kits that look the same from one manufacturer to the next and they all look like the ones in say a Tamiya 1/350 Missouri. Should Tamiya sue everybody, or should all 5"/38 turrets look alike? It would be hard to prove,no? Copyrights don't last forever. They have a time limit, but I don't know what it is. Are the Cutlass's and Skywarriors that came out with the Revell carrier kits still copyrighted? IF they aren't, can I clone them and sell them legally? If they are, then nobody can make a copy and sell/give them to anyone else. Revell won't re-release them, so I guess that makes them valuable on the second hand market. If I had one of these kits and took the planes out and sold them to someone, am I obligated to pay Revell a percentage of what I got for them? What if I changed them and used them as updated masters for updated versions. Would the copyright still be a problem? There are companies we all could name in the far east who use 60's and 70's kits from other manufactures, update them and release them as new kits. I don't want to sound like an intelligent donkey about all this, but I just don't understand all the nuances of copyright law. Some things are obvious, some not so obvious. If I make a copy of a magazine article for a friend because it is not available anywhere else, as I understand it, I am breaking the copyright laws, even though the magazine can't be obtained from the publisher. If I loan the magazine to my friend, then we are legal? If he buys the magazine from me, then that's legal? Then he makes copies for himself is that legal? Then he sells it back to me is that legal? As I said, I just don't understand everything I know about this. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Joel Labow Subject: Coontz (Farragut) Class DLG/DDG Model Kit The Ship Model Shop in Eastham, MA produced a Farragut class DDG kit in 1/250 scale a number of years ago. These kits were awe-inspiring things of beauty, with lovely machine-carved basswood hulls and superstructures and very complete britannia and photoetched fittings sets and fullsized drawings. The line included, in addition Farragut, an Aegis CG, a Knox class DE/FF and a Perry class FFG. Sadly, this company and it's kits are long gone.....presumably victims of the outbreak of resin and the onslaught of 1/350 and 1/700 as the standard modern warship scales. You may be able to find one on the secondhand market, but be prepared to pay big bucks.....they sold for $200+ when new. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Soviet Golf II >> I also purchased a Torpedo Run 1/350 Soviet Golf II missile sub which I think is the same type as was involved in the famous Glomar Explorer expedition. The casting is superb but of course the instructions are in Japanese. The color photo of the finished model on the box shows the upperhull and sail to be the expected black but the hull below the waterline is light green about the color of RAF WWII Sky Type S. Does anyone have an idea if this is correct or what colors the Soviets used below the waterline? << Green below the waterline??! I don't ever recall seeing a Soviet submarine represented as green below the waterline at any of the SubCommittee Regattas. Possibly they are trying to emulate the supposed green color that can occur when the copper salts in the "red lead" react with seawater (Depicted in Squadron's US Ballistic Submarines in Action). According to my sources in the SubCommittee, (ex-submariners) this is also not entirely accurate. Most Soviet submarines are modeled as medium gray below the waterline. The Golf II (K-129) was photographed extensively by the SSGN USS Halibut in 1968 and was the subject of the CIA recovery operation (Project Azorian, later Project Jennifer) from a depth of 17,000 ft. I have several books on the subject (Burns' "The Secret War for the Ocean Depths", Burleson's "The Jennifer Project" and Varner and Collier's "A Matter of Risk"). It is clear from the discrepancies in the various narratives, as well as facts that have subsequently come to light (e.g., the extensive wreck photography by Halibut) that the true story remains to be told 32 years after the sinking. Would be curious to hear a review of building and see the final result of the Golf II kit after you have finsihed the model. I'll poke around the SubCommittee to see if I can get an answer to your hull color questions. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Calypso model Some years back a fellow (Derek Brown I believe) who belonged IPMS Ft. Worth (I think that's the name) built an absolutely stunning model of the Calypso from the old Revell monstrosity. To this day I feel it was one the finest ship models I've ever seen considering the abysmal mess he began with. It even had an aquarium under the helopad with fish in it! A stunning model! Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: Ship Museums. Joe, I agree with you 100% the real ship buff does not like tours. However, the major factor in that is that if people roam around then things disappear. I have seen knobs, switches, valve wheels, lights, even phones disappear - a little memento for the folks back home. Some of that is evident in some of the submarine museums where they actually lock the public out of the torpedo tube area with a grill work or plastic panels or deny access to the conning tower. It is a shame but we must all pay for these leeches. That to me is disgusting to think that someone would put themselves above everyone else and the history of the ship just to steal something that will probably get thrown in a drawer or a box in the basement. I have a have a real thing about this and have never removed anything even if I know the ship is going to be scrapped. If I do it I will do it by the book and with permission. But back to my point - I am afraid to say we cannot have a "free roaming" museum and still expect it to remain intact. I just took a tour of the engine room of the RED OAK VICTORY - what a lot of brass down there - but it will have to be watched closely. A shame !! Mike NAVYDAZE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: Ship Museum - addition note. Joe, I should mention that tour of the Hornet only involves such areas as the Bridge, Pri-fly and the engine room. Basically you can go below to the Marine quarters, Mess Decks, Ready rooms and so on as well as roam the hanger and flight deck at will. The tour basically keeps control of visitors where things are more likely to disappear. Mike NAVYDAZE. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Matthew Prager" Subject: JMSDF MUSEUM To my fellow SMMLies, I've been in Sasebo, Japan for the last few days and managed to get so time to visit the JMSDF Museum here. An excellent museum, I recommend it to anyone visiting the vicinity of Sasebo (Nagasaki is two hours away). The building has five floors and covers the history of the Imperial Japanese Navy and the Japanese Martime Self Defense Force. All exhibits are in Japanese, however if you are familiar with naval history it's not that hard to follow. There are also dozens of wonderfully executed ship models covering ships from the late 1800's to the present. An excellent place to visit. Matt Prager Ingleside, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Ralph & Karen Batykefer" Subject: USS Pennsy Conversion Is this USS Pennsylvania conversion kit from Classic Warships a new offering or an old one? Sounds very tempting... Does it contain photoetch too because I already have the fine GMM set and wondered how to convert her from the Arizona. IHS, Ralph -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "Ralph & Karen Batykefer" Subject: USS Tarawa/FSM Bravo Zulu to Michael F. Sharp and his Tarawa in Fine Scale Modeler. I've been immersed in studying and accurizing my DML kit and eventually will have a 1/350th model of her. Great job and I'd like to share notes if anyone knows him or if he happens to be a SMMLie. IHS, Ralph -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "Ralph & Karen Batykefer" Subject: Copyright Thanks guys for the lessons in law and morality. I'm the original poster of the query because I'm looking for 1/542 aircraft to replace and augment on some old Revell ships I found in my parent's attic that built as a child. Again the a/c flew the coup and I guess I now need to either scratch build or to buy another kit. I want to do what is right. IHS, Ralph -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: RCClem@aol.com Subject: Re: Ballast I also put ballast in my models. I have noticed the scale factor mentioned by others. The smaller scale models don't have enough volume for the ballast to work. The height and weight of the heavy plastic superstructures above the relatively small volume hulls overwhelms any effect of ballast. But you can make it work by using a stiffly attached keel extension that holds the ballast. I use #6 lead shot covered with elmers' glue. The very dense lead BBs can fit down low into the small crevices in the hull and be much more effective than larger objects. The slow drying glue lets you shift the ballast for last-minute adjustments. Also, angular momentum is important to get as realistic wave-riding motion as possible. DO NOT put all of the ballast in one spot in the center of the hull. The ship will bob and pitch like a cork. Instead, split the same weight of ballast between the bow and stern. The mass in the bow will cause it to "plow" through the waves more realistically. But I never have figured out how to make a smooth mill pond surface look realistic in photos. The closest I have come is to have my son spray the water's surface with a fine mist while I take the shot. The mist creates millions of fine ripples. But my model gets wet in the effort! Any other ideas? Roger Clemens Hinsdale, Illinois "Fresh" off of an 87 hour work week (nuclear plant refuel and overhaul) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "Kelvin Mok" Subject: Re: Casting and copyright >> Now it is all well and good to talk about ethics and law, or the fact that some worthy maker is being deprived of a few bucks. But keep it in perspective; << Amen. To someone who is creative and industrious nothing is worse than being ignored altogether. Over protect your creation and that is what will happen. It is better to let people enjoy your work and that means to overlook innocent transgressions like copying for private use. The fact is that most people have neither the time nor the inclination to make anything that they can buy at a reasonable cost for an item that will be much better than can produced by copying. That is where the real market is. Someone copying your work? Take it as a small cost for very effective promotion. Kelvin Mok -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Kelvin Mok" Subject: Re: copyrights >> Though not a lawyer, I create documents that are routinely protected by copyright and I would say that I have read the US Copyright laws backwards and forwards over the years to know where I stand on things. With that said... << This post is not in defence of copying but a statement of what is going on in the real world, especially on publications. 1. Public and university libraries charge about ten times the real cost of making a photocopy to raise funds for themselves. I don't think the authors get any of that revenue. I don't think anyone reads the copyright rules printed on the inside of the book or the disclaimer displayed by the library or cares. 2. Megabook sellers such as Barnes and Nobels (US) and Chapters (Canada) encourage book browsers to get comfortable and read the latest and best books and publications on their shelves. Then there are those luscious upholstered chairs by the fireside (real flames-gas fed), clean washrooms nearby and even a Starbucks coffeehouse with muffins. If they would let me I would have gladly brought along my pillow, blanket, PJs, slippers and a toothbrush. Who needs photocopies. Who needs to buy books anymore. 3. The price of a book in China or any of the poorer third world countries can probably feed the family for a month. And any one book will never have all the information needed so there was once a thriving industry in Taiwan (and India?) to commercially reprint pirated copies of textbooks that found their way into US campuses. Taiwan is rich enough now and their Government, with pressure from US publishers, have better copyright enforcement. With that also came the snob value that only genuine editions count (student bragging rights). When third world countries become richer then they will also demand the real stuff. You have to let them achieve that status first. In any case that book would have sold quite a number of copies for others to copy from. And the bigger the demand for copies the more the libraries, etc. will buy that book. But that book sold more copies than if no one could access it because of too vigilant copyright enforcement. Eventually he/she would buy one as the cost of copying more than a few pages becomes prohibitive. The market for books for pleasure reading is minuscule. Losses from copying books on hobbies, like their sales, are minuscule. Don't bring copyright violations in third world countries into the argument. There was never much money coming from there at any time to cry over. 4. Software loaded into computers in third world countries are probably 99% pirated. Couldn't afford anything otherwise. Microsoft must be losing billions of dollars in China and that company is one of the toughest guys around regarding protection of their intellectual property. Yet MS does very little enforcement in China. Because MS realises that it is better that their products be used than open the door for some other operating system to take hold. And you book writers think you have a problem. Kelvin Mok -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Subject: C.F. Adams class Photographs Hi Folks, Could the kind gentleman who offered to show us at WEM, some photo's of a late fit CF Adams class DDG, I think it was the Barney, please contact either myself or Caroline, as we have lost your e.mail details and are keen to see your pictures. Best Peter Hall -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SMMLcon Infomation & posts The Deadline to pre-register for the SMML convention is April 1st 2000! If you want to attend, please contact us as soon as possible so that we can get a accurate head count. Also, for those who plan on coming to the convention from far away, the special rate on the Hotel expires on April 6th. Hotel arrangements can be found at: http://www.smml.org.uk/help/smml_hotels.html The SMML convention date is May 5th and May 6th onboard the USS Salem (CA-139) Ship Museum. For more information, check out the SMML website at: http://www.smml.org.uk/help/smml_con.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: IPMS U.K. "MODELWORLD 2000" World Class Open Compeition and Millennium Event Hi Guys, In response to a number of enquiries, and after chatting to Nick Allen of IPMS, I have prepared a web page on the Year 2000 IPMS World Modelling Championships, "MODELWORLD 2000". This includes info. covering the event, the area, transport, accommodation and more, with a load of follow-on links from the page. http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/modelworld2000.htm IF you would like any area expanded to make the page more helpful to yourself or others, then please let me know, and I will be happy to update it. Many Thanks! Caroline Carter WEM (Now REALLY looking forward to her break in Southern California in April, THEN SMMLlieCon in May!!) http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models White Ensign Models, for a fine range of photoetched brass for 1/600, 1/700 and 1/350 scale kits, and THE finest warship kits and upgrades in the world! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Tom Eisenhour Subject: Gakken 17 Howdy y'all, If anyone has a copy of Gakken 17 (I-19, I-400) to sell, please contact me off-list. Thanks, Tom Eisenhour Austin, Texas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume