Subject: SMML VOL 892 Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 00:16:24 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: USS TICONDEROGA 2: Thanks 3: Re: PT Boats 4: Yamato etched brass 5: Lightship questions 6: Opsail 2000 7: Re: Belknaps 8: U-571 Movie 9: Re: USS Ticonderoga 10: Preserved S-boote 11: Re: Replitech plans 12: OT: Skysweeper 13: Site proposal: On The Slipway 14: Re: Deck Planking and Hull Bottoms 15: PT Boat Info 16: Re: U-571 & PT boats 17: Re: Hull Bottoms 18: US Frigate Constellation 19: ANZAC Day 20: Atlanta kits 21: IJN Kumano and German Z class references 22: Yamato reprint -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Classic Warships New 1/350 Kits -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS 85 years ago today, ANZAC (Australian & New Zealand Army Corps) troops landed in Gallipoli. Today we honour all our servicemen, past & present. "They shall grow not old as we that are left grow old; Age shall not weary them nor the years condemn; At the going down of the sun, and in the morning, We will remember them" "LEST WE FORGET" Shane & Lorna Jenkins -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Jerry Slagle Subject: Re: USS TICONDEROGA >> I need a bit of help, I am building Revels effort in 1/700 it is quiet good as I look at it on its sprue's. Looking at its plans I have one or two questions though: 1 the hanger doors should open side ways or open up on a roller, most picsI have seen always shows the flight deck with the door already open so you can not see. 2 believe it or not I have never had to use transfers on a ship before!! (not very often I build modern ships) now I have read about "future-kleer" and its use before placing transfers(decals), but how do you get rid of the gloss finish? can you use a matt varnish? I live in the UK so most American stuff you cannot get here. I have used Humbrol before But I really do not like it it seems to have a odd tint to it, at least in the two tins I have here. << I was assigned to USS TICONDEROGA CVA-14 in the 65-67 time frame. I'm assuming that you're talking about her and not the cruiser. The doors, not at the elevators, are roller curtains. I don't recall what type of covering she had at the # 2 & #3 elevators, if any. Hope this helps, Jerry -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: AandMBlevins@gateway.net Subject: Thanks Hello again, I just wanted to express my appreciation for SMML. The questions are to the point and the answers are very helpful. I really enjoy the interchange between the readers and the generous sharing of information by vendors. Just wanted to put my two cents in. Keep up the good work. Al Blevins -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: PT Boats Ken, The book you want to get hold of is John Lambert and Al Ross' _Allied Coastal Forces of World War II, Volume II: Vosper MTBs & U.S. Elcos_, USNI Press, 1993. Of course, if you attend SMMLieCon you could hear Al Ross speak on the subject, meet him and pick his brain.... John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys http://www.shipcamouflage.com And also John's brain as well ;-). Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: Yamato etched brass There was someone asking about photoetchings for the Tamiya 1:350 scale Yamato the other day, so if there are any more out there who are in their planning stages for this project they might find a comparison between the Eduard "Super 350" set for the Yamato (art. no 53 001) and the Gold Medal Models set interesting. Both sets are designed for the Tamiya kits, and they may not fit other kits without modification. My sole reference on the Yamato is the Super Illustration Battleship Yamato (bought from HobbyLink Japan for 2000 yen) and if this is wrong the conclusions will also be wrong. My apologies in advance if I do. Anyway, here goes: Packing and instructions: An envelope with a piece of stiff cardboard protecting the sheet of etchings and a double sided sheet (slightly longer than an A4 sheet) of instructions for the GMM set. The GMM instructions give a brief introduction to handling, shaping and gluing photoetched parts and how railings and ladders are fitted on real ships. The various subassemblies are then described in detail how to fit them together. Two views of the superstructure (probably taken from on the references mentioned in the instructions at the end) points out what type of railing goes where. An added bonus is the drawing showing the position of anti-aircraft artillery for the Yamato's last configuration as the kit is not entirely accurate in this respect. The plastic kit does not give you enough parts to model the ship in this configuration, so a second kit will need to be butchered or you will need to scratchbuild if you can't find someone with some triple 25mms to spare. The Eduard set keep their etchings and two double sided instructions in a "half A4 sized" resealable plastic bag allowing you to see the etchings without removing them from the bag. Unfortunately, two parts had been bent when the header card was inserted in the bag, and this was the case in both the sets I looked at. The part in question is a rib that goes over the fairing where the anchor chain disappears into the hull so it should be easy enough to bend into shape. The instructions are Eduards usual pictorial style which does not give any explanations how ladders and railings are fitted on board real ships. Instead, they have several views showing where each item is supposed to be which is a good thing for those that haven't got the references. So, how do the two sets of etchings compare? Not surprisingly, there is a fair degree of overlapping, but there are a great number of differences too. Let's take section by section following the GMM instructions. First; catapults. These are best represented by GMM. Not only do Eduard portray them as open bottomed as compared to a box structure as the GMM set, but GMM also gives you ten internal braces for the structure and the pulley and bracket at the front. This complicates the assembly of the GMM catapult, but fit is really good and it is not as hard as it seems resulting in an impressive looking miniature representation. The breakdown and reduced number of parts in the Eduard set makes it easier to assemble, but cannot attain the visual complexity and accuracy of the GMM item. Both sets include aircraft trolleys and two types of launch cradles. Aircraft crane: Yet again, the Eduard set will be easier to assemble as the crane mast simply folds up at the base whereas the GMM will require you to fold the developed pyramid along three corners. This requires a careful touch followed by thin flowing superglue, but it will give you a structure that consists of four pieces of angle "steel" rather than the flat "steel" of the Eduard kit. The jib in the GMM kit has all four sides etched as one, whereas the Eduard set has the top separate from the bottom and two sides etched as one. Both will require care and patience to get a good result. GMM gives you a choice of crane rigging which enables the modeller to show the jib in raised or lowered position, and a small hook. The Eduard set doesn't, but you get a characterbuilding number of parts (and size) to represent the hinge of the boom and the attachment for the crane rigging. Combining the Eduard and GMM will make a crane worthy of study on its own. Type 13 "GO" radar. I haven't attempted assembling the GMM etching yet, but surely that must be easier to assemble than the Eduard etching. GMM gives you one flat etching with a set of aerials included. Then you fold another etching and glue to the flat piece, thereby creating the triangular crossection of the original. Finally, the other set of aerials is fitted to the folded edge of the structure. Eduard represent this as a three pointed star, requiring you to fold the sides upwards. Not having tried this in practice, I think it will be hard to achieve success as the base is virtually impossible to clamp. This radar only has one set of aerials and they are not as finely etched as the GMM set. Main director: Eduards set is the simplest giving you a crescent shaped walkway and radar aerials to be folded to an open box (same as GMM), but there is no support structure (which GMM provides). The "mesh" of the radar is represented as relief etched "dots" in the brass whereas the GMM is see through. Both sets provide the braces, and this is where the Eduard set stops. To fit the GMM walkway, you need to remove the overscale Tamiya walkway beneath the director "arms". Then you will fit the platform provided which goes under the arms and in front of the center housing. I found it necessary to bend the small tabs slightly upwards to fix them to the arms. Then comes the difficult part; bending the platform railing to fit the platform. First I started curving the center part of the railing around a dowel. Try to match the curve to the radius of the platform attachments. When you have achieved the correct radius, then you can bend the railing for the arms at about 90 degrees. Fit is actually perfect - showing how good the patternwork is. Make no mistakes about it; you will need two tweezers and two steady hands to get it all together square and level. Add to this the railing and ladders (cut to length and provided on the sheet and mentioned in the instructions), this is an area of the model I am quite proud of, and it ain't finished yet. Putting this main director on the finished model will be like crowning a king/queen/emperor depending which part of the world you're in. Auxilliary director: GMM also provides walkway and railings for the auxilliary director which are slightly more difficult to position than on the main one as they are not connected by a central piece. Time and patience and slow setting super glue will help, and again, the fit of the railing to the platform is perfect. Eduard provides nothing in this area. Aircraft props and accessories: Both sets provide aircraft props which requires the spinner to be cut off. To improve the looks, drill out a hole in the cowling representing the opening for cooling air. This only needs to be a mm deep. Then, drill a smaller hole in the same centre to attach a piece of rod to represent the gearbox of the radial engine. Make a spinner from plastic rod and glue to the etched propeller and finally twist the blades slightly to a realistic pitch angle. Yardarms: The three yardarms on the rear side of the bridge are dressed up with railings and wind indicators from the GMM set. Eduard gives you nothing in this area. Main turret: GMM provides railings and ladders for the main turrets and that's it. The ladders will need to be cut to length from the sections provided, whereas all of Eduards ladders are provided with the appropriate lengths on the fret. There are no railings on Eduards sheet, but they do give the arms for the outer barrels pointing towards the center one as beautiful etchings. It's just that I cannot find them fitted in my reference.... The directors for the turrets suffer from flash and slight mould misalignment and I have spent a lot of time filling and sanding, taking care not to sand off the oval plates at the ends. With the Eduard set, I need not have bothered as they are represented by etchings too. Below each outer gun, there is a platform, and this is finely etched on Eduards set, and the platforms for the AA on the turret have a floor with anti-slip texture. On the rear side on the turret, the door, platform, rain gutter and ladder is provided. Secondary battery: GMM provides railings, ladders and blast bag restrainers. Some of the latter ones will probably say goodbye with a "spoiiiiiiing" when installing them, so GMM has given some spares whereas Eduard gives you the number you need. The ladders between the guns are again etched to size on Eduards set. The tripod and aerial in the kit requires a careful touch in cleaning up and it doesn't fit that great either. Eduard has etched a replacement, which is finely detailed, but this needs something more two-dimensional to look convincing. Still, the Eduard etching can be used as a template for making one from plastic rod. The two doors on the rear of the turret are included on the sheet, and these are very welcome. Eduard has really provided a lot of useful items for the secondary armament; antislip plate for the front barbette, strenghtening plates for the front and rear, doors, and finely etched grilles which fills the empty space left by Tamiya in these areas. Funnel: The unconvincing plastic platform on the searchlight level in front of the funnel is replaced both on GMMs and Eduards sheets. GMM includes a tailormade railing that fits perfectly requiring only some supports made from stretched sprue whereas Eduard provides the walkway to the machine gun control tower. How this will fit to GMM's platform I don't know.... The ladders on the front leading up to the funnel outlet is included in both sets, but only GMM provides the funnel cap grilles and the baffle plates. Railing and bits: GMM gives you a variety of railing, and you get lots of it too. Judging by the instructions in Eduards set, you only get enough to go around the main deck. If you do get more, then the instructions don't tell you where to put it. You only get three bar railing (including the part which is glued to the deck), whereas the GMM set gives you five types. What I found most impressive about the GMM railing is that is really looks like stanchions connected by chain - the Eduard set looks more like welded steel tubes. Both sets also includes watertight doors for the superstructure and adequate directions for placement. GMM mentions the prescence of ladders on the main mast, but the ladders will need to be assembled from five cm sections - not an easy task to get right for slender structures like these. Add to the fact that the ladders are wider than the masts themselves, and things will look odd. Also, I am running out of ladder material already, so buying an extra set of ladders will be useful here. Eduard gives you ladders etched to length and are much narrower, looking much more "in tune" with the masts. GMM provides boat pulleys which Eduard does not, and both sets provide the radio direction finder. GMM has etched a notch in the circle carried by the mast and you just insert the other circle 90 degrees to this one. Eduard will have you bend both rings 90 degrees and then glue these to a mast made from scratch. I think the GMM way may be slightly easier, but I haven't got that far yet. You do get a spare in case you make a mess of the first one. And now; the bits left on Eduards sheets. There still are a number of parts left, and the largest ones being the anti-slip plates for the enclosed 12.7 cm high angle gun deck. These will naturally be overscale, but so will the texture of the anti-slip in the kit. These plates will enhance the rather bare surface of the steel deck. There are a number of hatches and doors left to fit to the foundations for the gun directors, the rear side of the enclosed triple 25 mm turrets, the rear of the bridge together with the ladder and platforms which replace the solid plastic items and the deck hatches. There is a hatch of some sorts on the open 12.7 cm. high angle guns, and this is included too. Also included are platforms overhanging the hull sides towards the bow and the stern. There are some details on the breakwater that I do not know what is; could it be rods for cleaning the main guns? Last, but not least are the photoetched grilles. Tamiya represent the grilles as raised from the superstructure, whereas they should really be flush, just glue them on the walls carefully to avoid filling the grilles with glue and don't do what the instructions say. On the rear deck overhang, the plastic grilles will be enhanced with etched anti-slip treadplates and grilles. This makes me wonder if this part of the deck should be see through just like the open metal boarding used on bridges and footpaths to save weight? If so, milling out the solid plastic and replacing it with the etching should really give finesse to the finished model. There is a set of stairs to be fitted on the rear port side, just aft of the openings for the boats. These openings can be blocked with etched doors which have better detail than those provided in the kit. Whew, anyone still with me? Drawing a conclusion which one to get is up to the individual, but anyone who can afford it and willing to put in the effort should really buy both sets. I was quite happy just having the GMM set, and when I bought the Super Illustration, I found a lot of things missing from the kit, and the Eduard set provides a lot of those missing things. None of the sets try to change some of the wrong shapes of the kit. If I just had the Eduard set without seeing the GMM set, I'd be just as happy. It would be too much to ask of any photoetched set to provide all items possible, so there must be a compromise. Fortunately in this case, the two sets contain enough differences to make the purchase of both justifiable. Jens Hi Jens, Great post. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Lightship questions A friend of mine asked me a question recently about the Nantucket lightship. One of which was, "what do they use these ships for?" That not being my area of expertise, I danced around the technical explanation and told him they were most likely moveable lighthouses on water. Was I right? Someone enlighten me to the function of these ships. And why do they have their port name (I assume that's what it is) so boldly painted on the side. I'm sure the real answer will be interesting. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" Hi Rusty, Yup, afaik, your answer is correct. But iirc, they aren't movable as such, they are usually moored in the one spot & are in some if not all cases un-manned. As for why their name is in large letters, got no idea of the reason for that. Shane - who's most probably wrong again!! ;-) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "math4936" Subject: Opsail 2000 Philadelphia and Camden will be hostoto one of several port stops for OpSail 2000. The ships are due to arrive on June 23rd and are saild to include 50 tall ships. I understand that they will be berthed for public tours at Penn's Landing, the old Navy Yard, and in Camden. I live in Houston so you Yankees will have to make a report -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Steven P. Allen" Subject: Re: Belknaps Yes, it was Belknap herself that Kennedy collided with. Sea Classics published an article some years ago on the event called "The Ionian Incident." (That issue is out of print, but you can get a photocopy from the publisher.) David Poyer's book "The Circle" is based loosely on the incident. She was subsequently rebuilt with additional deckhouse spaces as a command ship and was used as the 6th Fleet flagship until she was decommissioned. I hate to dispute an authority as knowledgeable as Lee, but the Belknaps were longer (by about 14') than the Leahys. Despite the additioanl tankage thus gained (and waterline length for reduced wave-making resistance), the Belknaps lost several hundered miles of endurance versus the Leahys (although their speed was uneffected). The design process is laid out pretty clearly in Freidman. And, despite Lee's monentary lapse, I can attest that his 1/96 Belknap hull scales out precisely right on the longer length. :-) I guess it's pretty clear by now that I like that class? Steve Allen -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Duane Fowler Subject: U-571 Movie I thought that for a Hollywood movie, the U-571 was OK. It was definitely Hollywood politically correct but if you forgot about the plot and the acting, the sets and the models were pretty good. Of course there were the little things like popping rivets on a welded boat, near miss depth charges that didn't seem to ripple the hull at all, and the fact that an American crew, once they got over their surprise that the labels on a U-boote were written in Deutch, could actually control the thing with virtually no learning time. Regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Kenneth Perry Subject: Re: USS Ticonderoga When looking toward the hangar door from the flight deck, the door opens to the right, on rollers and tracks like their land based hangar couterparts. Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: Preserved S-boote Does anyone know if any Kriegsmarine S-boote still exist in preserved condition, and if so what types, where they are and in what condition? I have heard rumours over the years of boats in north Germany, Italy, Norway and even one in the south west of the UK, but confirmation would be welcome. Thanks Robert Lockie Cambridge UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Matthew Prager" Subject: Re: Replitech plans Rusty wrote: >> I'm certain that these plans are still available through Replitech (the company that printed mine). Sorry, I don't have the address, I bought these plans in an auction. << Does anyone have a current address for Replitech? I tried contacting them about a year ago about plans for a Russian 1124 class gunboat, however my letters were returned as undeliverable. No luck seaching the internet either. Matt Prager -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: OT: Skysweeper If anyone can help me with this, please contact me *offlist*. I'm trying to find information on the (if you'll pardon my use of profane language) US Army's Skysweeper 75mm AA gun from the late 40's/early 50s for a project a friend and I are working on. After doing exhaustive searchs on every search engine I know of, I've come up with very little on this beast (and the few pieces I did find had contradicting information about what the US Army's "M-xx" designation was for the piece) I'm looking for pictures, technical specs/information, plans, etc. The only information I've been able to find was a simplistic drawing/operational scheme from an old set of "children's" encylopedias a friend had. I'm also curious if anyone knows if anyone ever produced a model of this beast. I know there was a toy of it made back in the 50's or 60's that fired BB's (seen on ebay once for a ridiculously high price), but I've never seen a true model of it (probably not surprising given how historically insignificant the piece is). Thanks in advance. Go Navy! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Foeth" Subject: Site proposal: On The Slipway I've been playing with the idea to make a small site that will post weekly (Or two-weekly) pictures of ship models in progress from modelers all around the globe. This might be a great opportunity to gather pictures not only for inspiration, but also to catch a glimps of other people's work before the model is done, and actually see how various aspects of modeling is handled. Accumulating tips might be the next step with step-by-step hint pages. I've already got a few pics running of two models here (Unless you use netscape, which might give you some troubles, that is): http://home.wish.net/~vandijk/ As one of these models is mine (And a friend who actually built the site) these are the fixed subjects. Other modelers work will only be online for a few weeks due to maximum storage capacity of the website. My idea is to have the pics accompanied by text from the modelers themselves. For now, I'd like to know if there is some interest among the SMML members so the idea can be implemented. I think it is a great idea, so what do you think? Evert-Jan Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Foeth" Subject: Re: Deck Planking and Hull Bottoms >> In the case of the Missouri, the sheets aren't long enough to do the deck in one piece, or even two. I am lucky that I was able to hide the joints under the superstructure so that the joint is almost totally covered. << It is very easy to use putty to hide the seems. I've used a Squadron Mail Order scriber to remove putty from the grooves, immediately after puttying a thin line on the joints. Of course, putting some superstructure on it is a lot easier still. EJ Foeth -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: SMAtouche@aol.com Subject: PT Boat Info Ken: Try WWW.ptfnasty.com> Lot's of very good information on PT boats from vintage WW2 to 1975 or so. Just follow all of the links and I think you will find what you are looking for. WW2 is if in the first paragraph last sentence on home page, click on vintage PT boats. Paul Shay -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: U-571 & PT boats Hi Guys I recently saw U-571 and I think it is an action packed film. Admittedly some of the ships aren't historically accurate as to operational areas for such as S-33, Z49, and U-571, but in some ways they were accurate in that US sailors on ships did wear a blue dyed Gilligans hat. The Z-49 looks like a Navajo class tug converted. I wont give the plot away but it did seem possible after comparing photos of an old US S class sub to German U-boat. I enjoyed it and it was good character study of people. For Ken Perry why not try getting a book from Signal Squadron called PT-Boats in action #4007 also try the Floating Dry-dock website he may have what you need as photos and accessories or other books. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: RhinoBones@aol.com Subject: Re: Hull Bottoms >> Rergarding hull bottoms, I have wondered about the same thing myself for my 1/700 Yamato and other waterline battleships. The way I'd do it is to cut 20-thou sheet styrene to the shape of the hull cross sections that you have. Then I'd laminate those together with other pieces of sheet styrene to build up a good approximation of the lower hull shape. Then I'd glue that to the upper hull, then apply milliput epoxy putty to fill in the gaps and file to shape. << Sounds like a technique with an excellent chance of success . . . especially since you have proofed it on an earlier project. My original idea was to use the upper hull to trace the outline on a piece of 1X3 pine and then use the band saw to rough cut the outline. Follow up with a progression of the dremel, files and sand paper to work away everything that doesn't look like a hull bottom. Probably would need to mount some locator pins in the upper hull to help keep everything lined up with the bottom. If nothing else . . . the basic materials are cheap and a waterline stripe can be used to cover up small miss matches between the two halves. Regards, RhinoBones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Robert OConnor Subject: US Frigate Constellation SMMLies, I need a little help from one or two of you experts in the field of wooden ships. If any of you can help with the history of the frigate USS Constellation, please contact me privately. I am trying to track and authenticate an alleged artifact from the old girl. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob O'Connor, in suddenly warm, humid Central Florida. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Marc Flake Subject: ANZAC Day This Texan will take a moment today to honor Australian and New Zealand troops who participated in Gallipoli. Today is ANZAC day, folks. BTW, Shane, isn't there some sort of cookie (bisquit) that is made on this day? Marc Hi Marc, There sure is. Check out Vol 524 for Mistress Lorna's recipe for ANZAC cookies, several SMMLies have already used it & were very happy with it. Maybe some SMMLie can cook some up for SMMLcon ;-). Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Atlanta kits Hi group, Would someone please tell me what would be the better injection moulded kits of the Atlanta class CL's? TIA Keith Butterley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Shane Weier Subject: IJN Kumano and German Z class references Hello all, As an aircraft modeler who has built just one ship model in the 25 years I'm not exactly overwhelmed with naval referece books, nor even much aware of what's available. Having built one of the Tamiya Z class destroyers whilst bedridden last year I'd now like to take a further step and correct and detail the second one in the kit *and* to do more of the same to the Kumano. To that end I'm looking for some reference sources but with some caveats. I'd *like* to see drawings and photos in detail, but I suspect that these will not be subjects that are well covered. I'm willing to pay A$20-A$30 for a monograph, but I'm not so keen as to spend the big bucks required for most of the hardcover references so please warn me if you suggest a book that costs $200 (and probably out of print !) For the benefit of Shane the Younger's heart - no I am *not* changing over to ships, just getting in a practice model or two before the kit of my dreams arrives and in anticipation of giving you some amateurish competition in the ship classes at QMHE Shane Hi Shane (the Elder), Check out my Shiplist on the APMA site for some refs on the Z class DDs & Kumano. I can especially recommend Dan Jones articles in PSM on the Z Class DD. I can also highly recommend GMM's 1/700 German WW2 Naval set, it has all the parts required to make the Z Class a very nice boat, along with other stuff on there, so you can do some more practise, before you tackle your braille scale dream ;-). As for "amateurish competition" - give me a break - I've seen your Brisfit ;-þ Shane - the Younger -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Scott Saracco Subject: Yamato reprint Scott Hello! I emailed Chrysalis books to inquire about the status of reprinting Skulski's Anatomy of the Ship: Yamato. The following is their reply, for any that are interested: >> We are planning to reprint 'The Battleship Yamato' by Janusz Skulski later in the year, We are expecting this book to be available again in the Autumn, around September time. We are still unsure as the whether there will be a coedition or if the book will be available through our usual American distributor Books International. As soon as there is more information we will let you know by a newsletter to our bokclucb members (to become one see our website www.conwaymaritime.com). When we produce our next ctalogue there will also be further details in that. << -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SMMLcon Infomation & posts SMML Convention and tour notices: http://www.mikedunn.freeserve.co.uk/smml/help/smml_con.html If your coming to the SMML convention on friday, we need to know which tour you planning to attend so that we can get an accurate head count for transportation. Contact John Frohock ca139johnf@aol.com and let him know which tour you plan on attending. If you are going on a tour, you need to be onboard the USS Salem no later than 10:00am on Friday May 5th. We will open the ship starting at 9:00am for those who would like a cup of coffee and some schoozing before departure. For those of you who are not going on either tour; the USS Salem will NOT be open to the public on friday (Crew will be on watch to repel boarders if provoked ) so please do not show-up at the ship on friday unless you are attending the tours. Check out Convention and tour info at: http://www.mikedunn.freeserve.co.uk/smml/help/smml_con.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Classic Warships New 1/350 Kits In the works for release in July are the USS Helena CL-50 and USS Brooklyn CL-40. The Helena kit will be dated from her last refit, completed in July of 1942. The Brooklyn kit will be dated from her December 1942 refit. They will both be available as full hull only. The quality of these two will be on par with that of my Alaska, very detailed, and very accurate. I have used the latest information available from the National Archives, the US Navy, and private sources, for drawings and photographs to produce as fine a product as possible. For info and a look at all my products, please go to my web site @ www.classicwarships.simplenet.com Pacific Front Hobbies will be the exclusive outlet for the initial release of the first 25 kits of the Helena, and the first 25 kits of the Brooklyn. The price on both kits will be $190.00 each. Call Bill at PFH @ (541)464-8579 and reserve one with your credit card. Thank you, Steve Wiper -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume