Subject: SMML VOL 947 Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 00:07:44 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Space Constraints 2: Lino on Pre-dreadnought Ships 3: Admiral Ushakov - Pre-Dreanought 4: Re: Pet Peeves 5: KM Colors & Silver Paint 6: Fwd: Bob Steinbrun's USS Kidd 7: 1/72 .50 machine guns for MTBs 8: Hopefully the last questions I can think of (for now anyway :-) ) 9: 1/600 Walrus 10: need help with Iowa 1, 2, 3 11: An apology & and a bit of thanks.... 12: IJN Sakura DDE 13: Re: USS Iowa conversion 14: Re: Linoleum 15: Tamiya Decks and preview 16: Z-31, German Colors, Old Eyes 17: Model Ship Journal 18: Resin? 19: Repairing Resin 20: U.S. Navy Torpedo Boats late 1890's 21: Re: HMS Trafalgar and Oscar - Dragon 1/700th 22: Re: Typhoon 23: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull 24: Titanic 25: out of production kits 26: Flags 27: Re: LCSL kit 28: Hobby shop in Taiwan 29: OpSail 2000 30: Australia - Cable Movies alert.. 31: USS Orleck (DD886) / Turkish Yucetepe (D345) 32: Re: Graf Zeppelin Air Wing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: Hunley 2: 1920s Vintage Battleship Photos 3: latest word on IPMS Nats at Dallas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Space Constraints Ye old problem...too many (unbuilt) models, no where near enough room to display (as built -- especially the Tamiya 1:350 Ya**to and Missouri). Yet, there are others I still want to get (mostly 1:700, but a few 1:350s). Owing to excessive dust build up, "kamikaze moths, staplers, etc", and past experience, I've come to the conclusion that all my models are going to have to be placed under cover. I once had a bird fly in here (my garage/den) and it made a bee line straight for my old Revell Intrepid. Before I could react, scratch one flattop! Ironically, my Canberra CAG was sitting right next to it (I knew it needed a systems upgrade, but dang!) I also have a friend who has some sorta mojo. No matter how careful he is, almost everytime he picks up one of my models, something falls off. One time he very gingerly picked up my Tiger Meet F-104 and a wing (he wasn't even touching) fell off. The concept of him picking up a ship with PE is a terrifing thought (lift...SPROING!) If it's in a case.... The case issue only compounds the space problems though (especially for large 1:350 kits). All of this really hit home as I was working on the preliminary plans for how to lay out a 1:700 California & St Louis @ Pearl Harbor diorama. The base is going to have to be at least 1.5-ft x 1.5-ft, and there's no place in our house where I could put something that big. Truth be known, at this very moment, I have no display space period (and I've gotten rid of nearly all my old models). I'm curious how some of you have tackled this problem. The only thing I can think of is to mothball all my 1:350's and only collect/build 1:700 (the smallest I'm interested in...no offense to you 1:1250 buffs, but that's a tad too small for my personal preferances). That, or only concentrate my efforts on only a few select kits (that I have the greatest interest in) and collect & mothball the rest until I get a place of my own (I'm living with my Mom due to financial reasons, so there's only so much I can do as far as the clutter goes). Go Navy! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: Lino on Pre-dreadnought Ships Concerning Linoleum John Snyder writes: >> .... Does that give enough of an answer? Well, yes. And thanks also, Fransisco. (Knew I could count on some people here knowing something) << But of course it leads to more questions. Now that I know it was invented in 1863, I can't rule out lino decks on pre-dreadnought ships and wonder when it came into naval widespread use? Specifically, I am wondering if the Imperial Russian Navy used it during the war with Japan. I have a rather nice set of recently drawn 1:100 plans for the Admiral Ushakov, showing the uppermost deck as not being planked. Could this be linoleum-covered as a topside weight saving measure? Somehow I have my doubts... For one thing my photo references on the Imperial Russian Navy always show wooden planked decks in the case of larger ships, and painted steel on some of the smaller ones like torpedo boats and destroyers. For another thing, I was looking through the photos in The American Steel Navy (excellent book on the pre-dreadnought era BTW) and did not see linoleum decking definately in use (interior and exterior photos). Some steel surfaces (such as deckhouse roofs and turret tops) do appear to be coated with a non-skid treatment, but not linoleum. Russian and American shipbuilding practice was not very divergent in the 1890s. So, what's the earliest reference to Lino in use on a warship deck? Thanks Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: Admiral Ushakov - Pre-Dreanought More specifically.... Does anybody have a birds-eye view photo of the Admiral Ushakov or sister ships? Or can anyone who has one of the resin pre-dreadnought kits from Russia (for any Imperial Rusian ship) check the color charts and see if dark brown is called out for a deck color anywhere? Thanks again Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Pet Peeves >> Probably the king of all pet peeve's with Tamiya's 1/350 scale ship kits, is how the decks are separated. Need suggestions, opinions or comments on how to have a seamless transition of all three deck sections. I want the model to show absolutely no seam lines where the deck sections meet. One way of solving this I was thinking about would to fill the two gaps with supper glue in layers, until the dried glue barely rises above the plastic << Your success will depend on joint prep more than anything else. Look carefully at the abutting edges. You will see that they are not square and perpendicular to the faces; rather they are somewhat rounded. With either a flat file, or sandpaper glued to a FLAT surface, and using a guide block to hold the deck pieces perpendicular, lightly sand the edges until they are dead flat and square to the faces. If you are a woodworker or watch Norm on Public TV, you are doing the equivalent of jointing the glue edges!! This will give you a proper glue surface that should produce little or no visible seam. Others may disagree, but I would pre-glue the 3 sections, and reinforce the seam on the bottom with glue strips before attaching top the hull. You could also paint and do other surface prep at this point. Then attach to the hull. Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: KM Colors & Silver Paint >> In the Scharnhorst class of battleship, all the colors appear to be aluminum in texture in content as they apply to the hull above waterline and upper deck structures. << Pre war KM surface ships hulls were painted light grey from boot top to the main deck. A slightly lighter shade of grey was used for the superstructure. This scheme was carried over from the Kaiserliche Marine of the First World War. Sometime after the outbreak of the war, ships were painted the same grey shade over all. It is interesting that you percieved an aluminum or silver shade. This is partly correct. Between the wars, the KM often used a silver heat-resistant paint to coat their funnel (smoke stack) exteriors, which you can sometimes make out in photos because the sunlight glints from it, and it is lighter than the other vertical surfaces of similar curvature. Naturally, the reflective silver coating was eventually painted over since it was tactically unwise. Your observation is also interesting because a color controversy rages over the use of silver vs light grey paint on aircraft of the Luftwaffe in the 1930's. I haven't followed it closely in a while, but it just goes to show you how hard it is to really tell metallic silver from light grey in photos. I am sure it is equally difficult in real life, in certain lighting condition such as when sun or searchlights shine on a distant ship against a dark background. Which accounts for the British description. Dave PS I am familiar with a color photo of Scharnhorst in dry-dock which is probably the same one you mentioned. You can see blotchy bright red paint below the waterline but be careful. I believe this is the red-lead metal primer. The final anti-fouling color would be a different, brownish shade. P.S. Forgot to mention, the previously mentioned heat-resistant silver paint continued in use on funnel tops until much later in the war. Bismarck still had this in 1941. Check your references because this varied. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Fwd: Bob Steinbrun's USS Kidd >> From: "Vincent Mccullough" Subject: Re: Bob Steinbrun's USS Kidd An earlier message to the list indicated that Bob's award winning USS Kidd had been severely damaged while the case was being removed so that photos of the model could be taken at the Mariners' Museum. I have just heard from Joe McCleary, one of the judges of the competition there that the Kidd was in it's place of honor at a reception held Friday night for those who submitted models to the competition, and that no damage was apparent. Bob was there and was "one happy guy" according to Joe. So either the report was wrong, or Bob managed to repair any damage that may have occurred. Once again, congratulations on your hat trick, Bob! Vince McCullough NRG Webmaster << -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: DECOFELIX@aol.com Subject: 1/72 .50 machine guns for MTBs Hello, Building Revell's Vosper MTB & PT-109. (Also an Airfix E-boat, but that is another story) The problem being the .50 machine guns supplied in both kits are rather crude. I have been unable to find aftermarket upgrades. I noticed a previous PT-109 builder produced excellent results by utilizing .50 Browning pieces from 1/72 aircraft kits. My inquiry--Is it possible to purchase pieces separately from a kit? If so, from which source? I viewed H&R's website but 1/72 .50 pieces are not available. Please advise if other sources or measures are available. Kind Regards, Felix -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Courtney R." Subject: Hopefully the last questions I can think of (for now anyway :-) ) Even though last summer I worked on the USS SALEM in the curator department, I had a prior commitment when SMMLcon 1 was held last month and was unable to attend. (Boy if I knew some of you modelers well, out there in SMML land, and you were coming to SMMLcon 1- I could of offered some homey accommodations at my house, so you wouldn't have to spend money on a hotel room. Well if there is another SMMLcon in the Boston area............) I really wish I could of attended, as the ship is only 30 minutes from my door. To make up for it a bit, I just saw some 5 or 10 photographs of the event up on the SMML we site, really makes me envious of all of the preview items that were there. Even though I just saw a few of the pictures of the event, I'm hoping if anyone out there who took more detailed, close up pictures of the models, which were in the model department only for the SMMLcon event. I saw a 1/350 scale model of the USS MASSACHUSETTS in the background of one of these pictures, which I'd really love to get a few detailed close-up pictures If you have any other pictures taken at the event, please e-mail me a copy of what ever it is you have; or if you don't have any pics you can e-mail me, would you happen to know of any web site where I can see any additional pictures of the show-which aren't already up on the SMMLcon web-site page. Thanks a lot for your time, and above all you patience. Courtney -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Christopher Crofoot Subject: 1/600 Walrus Hello all, I've got a little parts request... does anybody have in their spares box a 1/600 scale walrus from the Airfix Suffolk kit (may be in others as well). I'd like to have one for my airfix Warspite....the planes included are circa 1937 and the ship is circa 1940-1944. I'd provide renumeration of course :-) TIA Chris Crofoot -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "wblad" Subject: need help with Iowa 1, 2, 3 I can"t help you locate plans but if you can't find them in the scale your'e working in, a company called Scale Card make conversion cards and scale rulers that will help you convert the plans to the right size for your model. Originally started for model railroaders, the product line has expanded to include ship modelling scales such as: 1/96, 1/144, 1/192, 1/350, and 1/700. These are clear plastic cards and flexible rulers with appropriate scale marks for easy conversions. Their website is: www.thescalecard.com HTH. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Courtney R." Subject: An apology & and a bit of thanks.... Hi Everyone. This is Courtney here in Boston, Ma and I just wanted to write a note to anyone interested to let you folks know that I'm sorry that all of the posts I had up in the last SMML Volume, were a bit too long. True I might of been able to compress everything I said to one longer single post, but I don't think anyone would have the patience to wade through one long, big e-mail. So for anyone who thought that I was hogging SMML space, my apologies (but for a bit of defence, I really wanted to get out all of my pent-up questions up on SMML in one volume, so I wouldn't have to wait about a week, to get all of my questions up on different SMML Vols.). Now for anyone who took time to read all of my posts, and will respond with a few pointers of advice, I am really in debt to you. Thanks again Courtney -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "wblad" Subject: IJN Sakura DDE The Matsu class had rounded sterns and Sakura is one of these. The follow-on Tachibana class were repeat Matsus without curves or tumblehome to aid mass production. The square stern kit probably represents one of these later ships. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Darren Scannell Subject: Re: USS Iowa conversion Hi Courtney, Here's my 2 cents worth of info to help you out and to add to the other responses you're sure to get. Plans: There is a set of late 1943 Iowa plans in the Sumrall book - Iowa Class Battleships on page 160. It is smaller than 1/350, but drawn by Tom Walkowiak of Floating Drydock fame. A check of his website shows a 1943 set in 1/96 will be ready in 2001, these may be the same ones. If you contact him, he may be able to get you a set sooner. Otherwise, buy the book, it's a great resource. I'm not an Iowa expert, but a check of the chronology of the ship shows no dock period between Oct 43 and Jan 45, so these plans should be what you're after. Canvas: Of the many different ways to simulate, I tend to use tissue soaked in a solution of water and white glue and poked and prodded into position. I've never simulated something as small as eyelet's, but I suppose a dab of brass paint would do. I've seen tarps done with paper and thin plastic and sewn with a needle before. Paravanes: Anchor point, piece of .010 sheet plastic cut to shape, drilled and glued on. Chain, tiny stuff available in the train section of the hobby store. Comes in black and brass. Deck joints: Depends on how you plan on painting them. I like the effect that I get when I use the method I learned from Loren Perry. Paint with Floquil mud and then use a small brush and driftwood stain and pine stain and using little random strokes that follow the planks, paint over the mud lightly. If you can't find the stains (as they aren't produced anymore), use regular paint thinned to a thin wash, light gray and olive drab. Do each color over the other until you like the effect. As for the joints, Glue with regular glue and sand flat in joint area. Use a straight edge and a sharp Xacto to cut the planks back in. After painting with the techniques above, the joint areas are almost invisible as the paint runs along the cuts and flows into the planking. ( I have to say it takes a little practice, but once you get used to it, it looks superb) As far as the preview goes, most parts should fit together without a hassle and a little touch of super glue will hold the stubborn ones on and can be snapped off later. HTH Darren Scannell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "wblad" Subject: Re: Linoleum Linoleum was often used on internal decks of ships and corticene is often described as a "linoleum product." Corticene was used by many navies for half a century outside on the weather decks. Since wet linoleum is one of the slipperiest surfaces known to modern man, it cannot be the same deck covering as corticene. My question: What exactly was (is) corticene, and was it the same for all navies that used it (Britain, Japan, and various European navies). The U.S.Navy never used it - why not? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Tamiya Decks and preview Howdy: I agree that the decks on the Tamiya BB kits are a pain. On the Missouri it's the worst since you have the AA shields that go into the deck which leave yet more seams. Plus the decking detail is raised, so scribing over putty or superglue might look odd. The thing that got me was that on the kit the bow is about 6 scale feet too wide and the whole superstructure is about 15 scale feet too far forward. That means the forward turrets are too crammed in the front and there's too much room behind #3 in the rear. Another fun fact is that all the quad tubs are too big, and the "box" amidships with the 6 quads on it is too long. The blast bags are too poofy and the shape of the hull between the skegs is too rounded. Anyway, my point is that with the problems of the deck seams, plus the out-of-place superstructure and turrets, the solution I arrived at was replacing the deck entirely. I got some N-scale grooved styrene (the grooves are 1/50" apart and about prefect for the plank width on the Missouri) to make the new deck out of three pieces. Now, the 5" turret bases nearly go to the edge of the ship, so I hid the joints under these bases. With careful constructon and a little sanding the joints will be invisible. I have scratchbuilt new #1 and #3 barbettes and will do the same for the AA gun shields and breakwater which is better anyway since the kit parts are all kinda thick. So while that's a long way to solve the problem, I think it's the best way for a complete solution to problem for us really anal modelers. For a little "preview" without tons of tape, just stack up the parts. You'll have to glue the smaller parts to the major parts, but the major parts just stack up without anything holding them together but gravity. It's fun and I do it all the time so try it out. As far as reproducing scale canvas over the kingfisher, my first attempt would be with tissue soaked in diluted white glue (note I haven't tried this...just theorizing). Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "David" Subject: Z-31, German Colors, Old Eyes Many thanks to the SMMLies who helped to straighten me out regarding Heller paint numbers. Work on Z-31 has since proceeded with more confidence. Now that I'm on the point of painting the hull, VERY useful information appears about 1) masking the boot topping, and 2) doing it in dark gray rather than black. Excellent! How about Floquil's good old Grimy Black? Eyes: I've been remarkably nearsighted all my life, with thick glasses necessary for all activities except borping and humigating. The bright side of this is, at a range of four inches, using one unaided eye (binocular vision doesn't work at this range) I can read the label on a 1/700 beer can. So the glasses are set aside when I'm working with small parts, and as long as the item stays on front of me I can see it fine. But many have simply disappeared out of my fingers, with that sickening little pop we know so well, and have flown off into the stuffpiles surrounding my desk. Some I've found, others I've given up on and scratchbuilt substitutes, only to have the missing part turn up days or weeks later. Once a 1/600 davit burrowed into the hair on my wrist and hung on there like a baby possum while I crawled around on the floor looking for it with a flashlight. After a long unsuccessful search, I tried to compose myself with hands folded on my desk, and...I swear that little gray sucker laughed at me. This is one nutzoid hobby. David Hackley Sharpsburg, MD USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Ned Barnett Subject: Model Ship Journal I just had a fascinating talk with the owner/editor of the forthcoming Model Ship Journal. Sight-unseen, I know it's worth my investment - I can't wait for the first issue. It was nice putting a voice with a name; and as a former model magazine editor myself, it was fun comparing notes. Most important, though, this looks to be a valuable, affordable new reference/resource for our hobby! Ned -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Ned Barnett Subject: Resin? I'm looking for suggestions - call it "resin with training wheels" if you will. I'd like to take a crack at a resin ship, but would rather not mortgage the house on what will, after all, be an experiment. I'd like something accurate but fairly simple in construction. I'm open to (and asking for) suggestions and recommendations. Except for a few Czech kits from WAY BACK WHEN and a conversion kit for a Grumman Wildcat, I've not worked with resin. I've read enough to wear a mask, but that's about it .... Ideas? Ned -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Repairing Resin I had a mishap today. I had my 1:350 IS California sitting atop my Alto Sax case (atop a small table) checking the fit between the upper-lower hull. Well, apparently, I didn't have it all balanced right, because when I turned my back...CRASH - the sax case and model slamed (and slid across) the concrete floor. %@#$!!!!!!!!!! The Sax is fine (whew!), but the California lost the tip of her bow & hawse pipe (from the forward most topside hawse pipe forward, and from the top lip of the bow hawse pipe up) and a small section on the superstructure. The latter is easily repairable, but the bow...#$@&! I recall reading an FSM article by Rusty about a similar (bow) problem he had on a resin model, but I can't seem to find it. I think he used CA to build up a new bow tip and sanded it down, but I could be mistaken. This won't work entirely, because there's some detail areas lost in the scraped off prow. Per my plans, there appears to be two small hawse-like pipes right near the tip of the bow that are history. Those I have no clue on how to recreate. I'm open to any suggestions anyone might have on how I might affect damage control at this point. Go Navy! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "peter webster" Subject: U.S. Navy Torpedo Boats late 1890's Hi, just need some colour information on the torpedo boats used by the U.S. navy in the late 1890's just prior to war in 1898. The usual scheme for such vessels and the early (torpedo boat) destroyers that you see, say from 1900 to 1914, is overall black. I need info on the colours of all surfaces including boot-topping (if any). Also, for ships' boats up to 1898 for U.S. naval vessels; from the B & W photos they appear to have white undersides, but what is the darker trim colour around the tops of the sides/seating areas?? Thanks, Peter Webster. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: HMS Trafalgar and Oscar - Dragon 1/700th You are correct about the shroud and planes. In general, the DML models require a fair amount of correction. I would also recommend Rusty White's propeller set (1:700 phototetch) for these kits. I actually haven't seen the Oscar, so I can't comment on accuracy. The DML Typhoon, in both 1:700 and 1:350 is wrong, particularly the entire stern section. Their Los Angeles in 1:700 and 1:350 is also off by quite a bit in details. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Typhoon >> can any one help me find a good sized model kit of a Typhoon or an Akula please if so could you let me know << How big is "Good sized"??? The R/C guys over on the SubCommittee site have BIG Typhoons and Akulas. Big means Not Cheap! These hulls are intended for radio-control, but can be built as a static model. Expect to spend several hundred dollars and man-hours on such a kit. Check out the photo gallery at http://www.subcommittee.com/ (Note, this is our new URL). Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Floridian2day@aol.com Subject: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull I want to take an unscientific survey. For the builders of 1/350 scale ships, which do you prefer full hull or water line kits? Just curious. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Robert & Rose Brown Subject: Titanic Hi there: Ive been working on a 1/200 paper model of the Titanic for the past few years. I've added lots of extra bits in place of some of the supplied deck fittings. One of the more interesting things that can be done with a paper model is to produce extra parts using the computer and a good graphics program. This has helped with extra detailing under the focsle and poop deck where I put in the correct passageways instead of the blanked off bits the kit came with. I was wondering if anyone knows of a place where I can get the following in resin or plastic: Lifeboats The correct Welin davits Passengers and crew to populate the decks Thanks in advance....Rob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: zwood@webtv.net (Zack Wood) Subject: out of production kits Does any one know of a source for some of the old DML (I think) 1/700 modern submarine kits, I've already got the typhoon/Dallas, Oscar/Trafalgar and Ohio/alfa and I'd like to see if I could find any of the others (or even find out what all they made). Thanks for any help Zachary N. Wood -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Robert & Rose Brown Subject: Flags Just wanted to say thanks to those who, some issues back, gave the helpful advice to apply those little flag decals to some aluminum foil in order to have them 'wave' in the breeze. These kind of tips are what make SMML so useful. This technique worked really well for me, I just put a small piece of foil in between the folded over flags and presto, they can be shaped any old way. For what it's worth, I used the foil that Lifesavers are wrapped in instead of the stuff found on the necks of wine bottles. Rob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Jeffon10@cs.com Subject: Re: LCSL kit I have answered this question before re an LCSL kit. There is a 1/350th kit available from Commanders/Iron Shipwright. It's available from Pacific Front for $27.00 plus shipping. It's also available from Select Hobby Supplies for $30 plus shipping. Jeff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: melvin@ctx.com.tw Subject: Hobby shop in Taiwan Hello Duane: Hobby shops in Taiwan are fewer to count. Most are located in Taipei. As to professional ship model shop, the quantity is 0. Regarding to Tauyuan where you stayed,there is only one famous hobby shop. It is located in the biggest city- Chung Li in Tauyuan county. And it can be sorted as R/C and AFV professional shop. Some professional AFV modeler would show their outstanding work in the shop. But it is pity that you will not see any wonderful ship model there. It is better for you to take a walk in Taipei. There are many hobby shops in Taipei. You can find only three shops selling fewer plastic ship models such as pit- road, Tamiya, Heller, Dragon and Trumpter -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: Kenneth Perry Subject: OpSail 2000 Hello, Anyone make it to the OpSail 2000 this week in Norfolk, VA? I just got back with two days left of the festival, no more time off...It turned out nice, with about 50 sailing vessels from about 45 feet in length up to 370+ feet in length. Two ships arrived Saturday unannounced, adding to the already crammed harbor. A must see for anyone interested in Sailing ships, almost all were open to the public and they even had helicopter rides for aerial photography. The only event that marred the weekend was a freak severe thunderstorm tonight (Sunday) which caused Portugal's Sagres II, the one with the red Maltese Crosses on the sails, to break its moorings and collide with another vessel at the dock causing an unkown amount of damage. You couldn't see too much of it being night time when this happened. The way they talked, damage is probably not too severe. The Sagres II almost drifted into the USCG Eagle moored next to it which ironically is its sister ship. The incident had a few people running for cover since the ships were still taking on visitors at the time. Well, enough rambling, if you have a chance, this is a must see. Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: "Simon Wolff" Subject: Australia - Cable Movies alert.. Hi you all.. For those in Australia with access to cable TV, a couple of nautical movies on cable at the moment, worth looking at. A Humphrey Bogart film called 'Action in the North Atlantic', which has some fantastic Heinkel 59 footage.. okay so I know thats not a ship but it does have floats and does.... Set on convoy duty in the Atlantic, stirring WWII Hollywood propaganda stuff. Secondly a William Holden film called 'The Fleets In', has some battlewagon footage.. and a young Dorothy Lamour both worth a look at... Simon Wolff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: USS Orleck (DD886) / Turkish Yucetepe (D345) The following article is from today's (Monday) Fort Worth Star-Telegram. >> Vessel coming home after serving U.S., Turkish navies By The Associated Press ORANGE, Texas -- More than half a century later, the World War II-era destroyer USS Orleck is on its way home to the Gulf of Mexico. The Orleck has left Turkey -- where it has been a part of the Turkish navy -- for a 55-day journey, the Southeast Texas War Memorial and Heritage Foundation of Orange County announced Friday. The ship is expected to arrive by early August in Orange. Its return is viewed as a step toward enhancing tourism in the area. "This is a great day in our lives. We can celebrate the start of the final leg of a journey we have anticipated and worked toward during the past 20 months," heritage group spokesman Tom Depwe told The Orange Leader. The ship will be the centerpiece of a complex that will memorialize contributions made in shipbuilding and related efforts. Plans include a museum, recreational facilities for boating enthusiasts, river trips and swamp tours. The Consolidated Steel Corp. in Orange laid down the ship's keel on Nov. 28, 1944. It was named Orleck on Jan. 11, 1945, and launched May 12, 1945. After serving in the U.S. Navy 37 years, the vessel was given to the Turkish Navy under a NATO agreement and served another 15 years. Last year, Orleck was handed over to the Southeast Texas War Memorial and Heritage Foundation. << The Orleck is a Gearing class DD. According to my '91 Janes -- It was updated to FRAM 1 and also received a twin Oerlikon 35mm/90 cal gun at the "B" mount. Consolidated Orange built many of the US Navy's WWII era destroyers and destroyer escorts. Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: "Peter K. H. Mispelkamp" Subject: Re: Graf Zeppelin Air Wing Hello again: Current standings are: Bf 109T Ju 87C Fi 167 Me: 4 3 3 Bob O'Conner 2 2 2 Doug Brown 2 2 2 Ned Barnett 3 3 3 Bill Colby 3 3 3 Jeff Healy 1? 1? 1? David R. Wells 1 1 1 Chris Neel 2 2 2 Totals: 18 17 17 As you can see, we are probably one or two more orders short! I am waiting for news from WEM re: pricing etc. Due to popular demand I will posting WEM pricing and other info on camparible resin A/C later today. Sincerely Peter K. H. Mispelkamp -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Burl Burlingame / Pacific Monograph Subject: Re: Hunley Note: The Pacific Monograph 1/96 Hunley is being held back for several weeks to incorporate changes as new details emerge. The socket for the spar and the additional fins are most interesting! Burl Burlingame Pacific Monograph, 1124 Kahili Street, Kailua HI 96734 808-263-6087 buzz@aloha.net A historical interpretation company. Visit our web site at http://www.PacificHistory.com/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: 1920s Vintage Battleship Photos Hi Just put a 1920's USN battleship photo album up on eBay, 250+ sharp sepia-tone photos. Starts at one dollar, no reserve. Take a look at the scans, even if you're not interested in buying! Some shots in this album are really nice, and you won't see them elsewhere. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=361648477 Also while you are there, click on "view sellers other auctions". I have some vintage Spanish American war naval oriented books for sale, which have nice ship photos! Everything starts a one dollar, no reserve. Since summer is here, there might be some sleepers. Thanks Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: latest word on IPMS Nats at Dallas Hello all Marc Flake is on travel and is unable to update the list of attendees. His last count was about 30. There have been reservations made for 1600+ room nights at the hotel. The attendance figures look to be very good. After some shuffling of the vendor tables there are 4 tables together that are available. If you are interested in selling at the convention - go to the IPMS-NCT website for the point-of-contact. If there's anybody who is going to be in town Tuesday night/Wednesday morning and doesn't mind doing some mindless labor, contact me off-list. We take possession of the facilities at 6pm Tuesday night and the plan is to make sure that the tables in the model room and vendor room are set according to the floor plan and to begin topping the tables. Vendors will start arriving at 6-ish on Wednesday morning and we will help them off-load their vehicles so they can clear the loading dock. Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume