Subject: SMML VOL 949 Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 01:00:01 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Egads! Another Felix in the Group! 2: Full Hull vs. Waterline 3: Couple of things.. 4: Re: Waterline or full hull 5: Re: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull 6: Ship Names 7: Re: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull 8: Re: 1/72 .50 machine guns for MTBs 9: More Kriegsmarine Color Trivia 10: Re: Display Cases 11: Re: hobby shops in Hampton Roads 12: Re: Modern Colors/TB Colors 13: Re: Tired eyes 14: Resin with Training Wheels - part 2 15: RN Insect Class Gunboats 16: Scratch built lattice masks - I need help s.v.p.!! 17: Re: 1:350 scale, waterline or full hull 18: Airfix Moskva 19: Re: Tread Plate 20: DML kits 21: Fletcher Camo and Radar 22: Hobby Shops in Hampton Roads, VA 23: Re: Plans 24: CW Konigsberg & Nurnberg 25: Re: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull 26: Big Gun Monitors 27: E-boats 28: Re: Full Hulls & Weathering Lower Hulls 29: Re: Royal Navy Ship's Crests 30: Re: Model Cases & Barristers' Bookcases 31: Re: Fujimi IJN Sakura 32: Full Hull or Waterline 33: Re: Waterline or full hull 34: Re: Broken Bow Repair 35: 1/72 .50 machine guns for MTBs 36: To Waterline or not to waterline 37: Compuserve & AOL SMML hassles -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: VACATION TIME... AGAIN? 2: L'Arsenal Corvette kits 3: Re: Itty bitty planes 4: Model Ship Journal in the mail -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Felix Bustelo" Subject: Egads! Another Felix in the Group! I just wanted to say hello to Felix (a.k.a. DECOFELIX@aol.com ) It is great to have someone else with this unique and distinguished name in the SMML! (Much to Caroline's dismay I might add ;-p). Promise me that you will send photos of you MTBs and E-Boat for positing on IMM's gallery. Regards, the other Felix (a.k.a. Felix Bustelo). Webmaster International Maritime Modeling http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm OH NO - there's two of them now - run for cover ;-ž Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "David Miller" Subject: Full Hull vs. Waterline Hulls are all wet and carry no disruptive paint scheme that I can remember. Yuch! Full hulls do have their uses however, like in a post-attack Pearl Harbor diorama. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: John_Impenna@hyperion.com Subject: Couple of things.. Hi All, My re-issue of the Revell CSS Alabama arrived today! what a nice stroll down memory lane....Who says you don't get a second chance!! This time it won't have tube glue runs, yellow masts etc...Also as an aside, the stories of the Kearsarge molds being used to make the Alabama are just that; stories. I found a couple of old Revell kit catalogs from 1973 and 1974 and BOTH kits are listed in the catalogs. BOTH molds exist and according to a customer service rep at Revell, there are "no immediate plans" to reissue the Kearsarge. They do get a lot of requests for it, however. This is EXACTLY what they said a year or so ago when I asked about the Alabama!!! The "stories" could very well be to inflate the already overinflated value of the Kearsarge. I had been sorely tempted myself to pick up an Alabama on EBAY. If I had, I would have spent about $100 or so more than the $ 49.99 I did pay!!!!! Be patient!! I'll bet that a future "Limited Edition" release will be the Kearsarge. I'll spend that "saved" $100 on a new Resin kit....... Now, a question. Can anyone tell me how good the Revell, ex-UPC?? 1/500 scale Royal Sovereign is? I have read that it is more appropriate for the Revenge, but I was wondering how difficult a conversion to the Royal Oak would be. Has anyone tried this? Any thoughts are welcome Happy Modeling!!! John Hi John, While I can't comment on the accuracy of the Royal Sovereign kit. I should mention that it is an Ex FROG kit - perhaps distributed by UPC in the States. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: John_Impenna@hyperion.com Subject: Re: Waterline or full hull Hi All, I prefer having the option....I tend to build the smaller scales as waterline(they just seem to look better underway!!) and the larger scale stuff(1/500 up) as full hull display, but still want the option, especially in 1/350th scale. John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Joćo Andrade Guerra Subject: Re: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull Waterline in all scales even if I am only building in 1/700 nowadays. Joćo Andrade Guerra -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Subject: Ship Names Hi Folks, Here is a question that is generally aimed in Shanes direction, but is open to all. Do the current RAN ships wear their names on the Transom like US ships or are they either side of the stern like RN ships?? And what height and colour are the letters? Thought I would sneak in that last one as a quiz question. All the best Peter Hall And the WEM Konig/Grosser Kurfurst PE is progressing very well. Hi Peter, Can't help you out at the moment as I don't have any upto date shots of any RAN ship. Although that will change very shortly. Any in particular you're after ;-). Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Satin, Michael N. (LNG-SHEP)" Subject: Re: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull Well, I like to do my models as "museum" types, no people and little if any weathering. So I like full hull. That's just my 2 shekels worth ;-> Michael -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: PT191@aol.com Subject: Re: 1/72 .50 machine guns for MTBs What? Me? Suggest doing something dishonest? Oh, heavens forbid. Would I do that? Tsk Tsk ................ Hey - wait a cotton pickin' minute there, I think my honor has been impuned here, .... okay, okay, that'll be wet noodles at 50 paces! Hey - anything to help my fellow model lovers ..... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: More Kriegsmarine Color Trivia Another color tradition in the Kriegsmarine was a decorative touch to the anchor capstains on the foredeck. (Forgive the use of my lubberly terms here) In photos you will note that the barrels of these things often but not always have alternating dark/light pattern painted on them. The dark/light areas are separated by heavy vertical bright brass strips. Color photos and also OKM Artist's watercolors confirm that this decorative paint was applied in at least three variations (1) black/white, (2) a red/white green/white combination wth the red/white pattern on the port side, and the green/white on the starboard side. (3) As before but with grey instead of white. The decorative schemes persisted into the war but eventually they were painted grey overall. (Evidence shows that the Prinz Eugen had "pattern 3" at the time of Operation Rheinubung.) A real bitch to paint in 1:700! Now aren't you sorry I told you? Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Hill, Robert L." Subject: Re: Display Cases I have been extremely satisfied with the cases I bought from GEMO Displays(FSM MAG AD) They are the work of a craftsman and well built. They are not cheap but well worth the money for long term display. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Kenneth Perry Subject: Re: hobby shops in Hampton Roads Hello, A couple of hobby shops I go to are Debbie's RC Hobbies in Va Beach, right off of Littleneck Road and Va Beach Blvd, Craftech Hobbies on base at Norfolk Naval Station, both small shops dealing mostly in R/C, but the base also has plastic kits. Two retail shops are Hobbytown USA and Hungates, both in Va Beach. Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Modern Colors/TB Colors >> By the way, does anyone make a set of modern, 1980's-1990's, US Navy paint set? Thanks. << We keep getting feelers about producing a set of modern paint chips. Likely we could combine several navies into one set... that is if anyone is interested. Of course, what we'd like are original samples to work from... Darren: got any original RCN samples? Shane: same for RAN? Caroline: how about the RN? Falk: modern German grays? Otherwise we'll probably have to wait for FOTS next year and carry the Munsell Book of Color down to Portsmouth and start matching against all the various ships there. >> Also, for ships' boats up to 1898 for U.S. naval vessels; from the B & W photos they appear to have white undersides, but what is the darker trim colour around the tops of the sides/seating areas?? << >> Probably natural wood. << Mmmmm, not necessarily. Those photos would have been made on blue-sensitive emulsion, which means that dark color could just as easily be yellow or red, both of which print very dark from blue-sensitive negatives or plates. John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys http://www.shipcamouflage.com Hi John, Yes I do have access to RAN paint. In an APMA back issue, Lindsay Charman managed to get some paint samples from paint locker onboard the FFG-07 HMAS Canberra, which were then put into that issue. It's what Simon Wolff used in his OzMods 1/600 HMAS Voyager Article on IM & what I'll be using for my OzMods 1/700 HMAS Vampire article (due sometime before the end of the century). Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Erwin Van Deynze Subject: Re: Tired eyes >> To avoid eyestrain I strongly recommend working by a window. Glance out the window often, at near and distant objects. This keeps your eyes moving between various focal points and prevents strain. Seriously, this is just as important as adequate lighting and ventilation. I'm no optomitrist, but I've been building models 30 years and still have 20-20 vision. << I totally agree, my workplace is at the street side, and I just have to glance outside to see the girls in their miniskirts pass by! Great exercise for your eyes! especially in these hot summer days! Erwin Hi Erwin, While I would never make such a sexist remark (shut up Mike, John, Bob, Al, & whoever else knows me), I couldn't agree more ;->>. Only problem is the fact that it's winter down here :-((. OTOH, winter means girls wearing black stockings......... Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: efgrune@flash.net Subject: Resin with Training Wheels - part 2 Hello Ned: Derek wrote about the ISW late war PT Boat as a possible model that would be a good entry level kit. There is no brass with this kit - so you would not gain experience in handling etched brass with this kit. I'm waiting for the WEM PT109 (and I've pre-ordered a spare brass fret to complete the ISW late war PT boat). Derek and Rusty also wrote about the JAG Asheville PG. I found that the railings with this kit were hard to position and cement. They have posts with 2 rails [?] and no bottom gutter. I found them very difficult to cement in place. The rest of the kit went together well - but again the "non-standard" rails would be a different learning process to apply. Did anyone else have problems with the JAG Asheville's railings? Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "nickbalmer" Subject: RN Insect Class Gunboats Hello, Has anybody ever come across drawings of the Insect Class Gunboats used by the Royal Navy in World War I. I would particularly like to build HMS Gloworm which served on the Rivers Dwins and Danube in 1919. Regards Nick Balmer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Robert Writt" Subject: Scratch built lattice masks - I need help s.v.p.!! Fellow ship modelers, I am attempting to scratch build a lattice mast with brass wire for the 1/400 scale Heller destroyer Maille Breze. I have tried several attempts without much success. I photocopied the original kit mast parts to use as a template for cutting out the correct lenghts of brass wire for the supports and cross braces. When I use gap filling superglue sparingly to join the wire parts, I find that the joints are not very strong. For example, working from bottom to top, the lower glued cross braces tend to break at the glued joint when I subsequently add overlying bracing to the upper part of the mask unit. When I add more superglue to strengthen the joint areas, I am left with ugly glue blobs at the joint. Are there any tricks that can help me solve my problem ? Thank you very much, Robert Writt St. Catharines, Ontario -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: 1:350 scale, waterline or full hull I prefer a full hull model. If I want to waterline it, I can. It is much more difficult to add the lower hull to a waterline model. What few ship models I have managed to build so far are mounted on pedestals on a wood base. Mike Settle I am not agent #1908 of the non-existent Lumber Cartel (tinlc)tm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Velzora & Bill Daisley" Subject: Airfix Moskva HiHi.. I've just returned from the local hobby shop where I had held in my hand the 1/600 Moskva by Airfix. It was on special for aprrox 20$ Cdn. 1] is this a good buy ? 2] is there brass/details available for this kit or Russian ships in this scale. Any hints would be appreciated too... Cheers, Bill -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Re: Tread Plate Howdy: I saw on the Hobbyweb site that a company called ABER makes photoetched tread plate in a few sizes and patters for armor models. I'm interested in that for my Yamato but I'm not sure if the treads will be small enough and the right pattern. To my knowledge there isn't anything like tread plate in plastic. If anyone out there in SMML land can enlighten us, I'm all ears. Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: zwood@webtv.net (Zack Wood) Subject: DML kits Thanks to everyone who responded to my post about the old 1/700 Dml subs. Does anyone out there have a yushio/delta 111 or a benjamin franklin/sierra they'd want to part with, thanks Zachary N. Wood -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Paul O'Reilly Subject: Fletcher Camo and Radar Greetings all; I've encountered the great dilemma in modelling, two references that countermand each other. I'm starting the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher and I plan to build her as an early Fletcher in the Nov 42 period around Guadalcanal. The Tamiya camo shows a dapple pattern and the Squadron In Action does show the ship in that pattern at the time of her commissioning. An article from NAVIS mentions that this pattern was still in place in early 43. However, the Warship Perspective book on Fletcher, Gearing and Sumner Class Destroyers has a pattern which is somewhat different- a Measure 12 Modified which was worn in late 42. Anyone know which was correct? Also the publications indicate the early Fletchers did not have radar. Were the radars fitted by the Guadalcanal actions in Nov 42? Anxiously anticipating your guidance. Paul O'Reilly Winnipeg, MB -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Hobby Shops in Hampton Roads, VA Denbigh Hobby Center in Newport News is the best place to go. http://www.dhcinc.com/ Hungates has stores in some of the malls. There are a couple of Hobbytowns also located in malls in Virginia Beach, and a shop in the Hampton Coliseum Mall, the name of which I forget. Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: RAL1183321@aol.com Subject: Re: Plans Dear Sir; Are you in any way connected with the magazines " SCALE SHIP MODELER AND/OR MODEL SHIP BUILDER " ? Can you tell me where I can purchase plans of ships. I'm interested in building a WWll SUB-CHASER also known as a PC ( PATROL CRAFT ) . Hope to hear from you soon. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "kensha" Subject: CW Konigsberg & Nurnberg My lovely, darling, wife purchased Classic Warships Konigsberg and Nurnberg for me for Father's Day. I have been unable to locate any pictures of them on the internet or printed material. Does anyone know of a place where I would be able to get information that would help me to build them correctly (colors, etc...)? Thanks in advance, Chris -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Jeffon10@cs.com Subject: Re: 1/350 scale, waterline or full hull I prefer full-hull for models 1/400th and above; waterline for 1/600th and 1/700th. Anything smaller is "inhale 'em scale." In fact, I gave up 1/600th and smaller as I keep inhaling the parts. Regards, Jeff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: Dave Shirlaw Subject: Big Gun Monitors Last week there was an inquiry as to availability of Big Gun Monitors by Ian Buxton. Here is his response.. > To: "Ian L. Buxton" > From: Dave Shirlaw > Subject: Book query > From: Bradford Chaucer > Subject: Looking for Big Gun Monitors Book > The subject line says it all - Where can I get a copy. I tried Bibliofind > and ALIBIS with no luck. > Regards, > Bradford Chaucer >> I get a lot of queries like this. BGM has been out of print well over a decade. Enquirers' only hope is to find one on the secondhand market. All the dealers I speak to have waiting lists. Ian Buxton << -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Douglas Bauer Subject: E-boats I'm sure I've seen E-boats mentioned a million times in SMML postings, but I never paid attention....now I wanna build the Airfix kit, and I need some reference sources. Could someone take pity on me and direct me to some photos, drawings, publications, etc., which will help me in my quest? Thanks so much! Doug Bauer Poway, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Sanartjam@aol.com Subject: Re: Full Hulls & Weathering Lower Hulls Hi, In 1/350, I prefer full hulls, mainly because they were easier to handle than the bowed upper hulls I ran into when I first bought resin 1/350 models. Now I have a question for those who prefer full hulls: Do you ever "weather" the hull below the boot topping? I have seen this done recently, and it piqued my interest. I have done the area below the boot topping in a uniform anti-fouling red with no weathering or other variation in color, but I was wondering what others think. Thanks, Art Nicholson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: Sanartjam@aol.com Subject: Re: Royal Navy Ship's Crests Hi, I don't remember seeing a ship's crest for the King George V, but you could probably get the artwork for one from (1) the Ministry of Defence in London or (2) a very impressive (and expensive) two-volume book called "Admiralty Ship Badges" by a fellow named Stopford. If you want to try the former, I can (given some time) dig up the contact information for a very helpful fellow at MoD. I have a collection of crests (culled from Christmas cards before WWII), but I'm pretty sure I don't have one for the KGV. Incidentally, I know very little about Royal Navy badges, but I do know that there can be variations of the badges for an individual ship; for instance, there were two variations of the badge for the Prince of Wales and two rather different badges for the Repulse, an official one and an unofficial one. So beware! Hope this helps.... Art Nicholson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: Sanartjam@aol.com Subject: Re: Model Cases & Barristers' Bookcases Hi again, I have found that a good place for storing and displaying 1/350 ship models is in a stacking, glass-doored bookcase sometimes called a "barrister's bookcase," a "lawyer's bookcase," or a "stacking bookcase." In Texas at least, they are often found in antique stores, but now command higher and higher prices. If made well, they are (I think) fairly airtight, but allow for good viewing of the model. They can be found in stacks of from two to five or six or more. I think they are still being manufactured, but the stacks are no longer detachable as they were in the old ones. Just a thought.... Art Nicholson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: Dboykap@aol.com Subject: Re: Fujimi IJN Sakura >> In all my IJN models that I have to built I have one small destroyer of the Matsu class, the Sakura (from Fujimi). I don't know much about this class and I realized that Tamiya also have the same model but with differences, at least in the stern. The Fujimi model have one square stern and the Tamiya model have a round one. What is the correct one??? Also the Fujimi model is quite poor and I believe that there might be some wrong things on it. Does anyone knows anything about this? << Yesterday's post was mostly correct on describing the features of the class itself >> The Matsu class had rounded sterns and Sakura is one of these. The follow-on Tachibana class were repeat Matsus without curves or tumblehome to aid mass production. The square stern kit probably represents one of these later ships. << In truth, the Fujimi kit represents nothing at all. This kit is, politely, excretable. There is an excellent review by Davaid Frasier on the Warships Site under Model Kit Reviews - DDs/DEs/Frigates that details how pitiful the Fujimi kit is and what it would take to attempt a correction. The Tamiya kits are vastly superior and mostly accurate, representing the Matsu class with the rounded sterns and no linoleum decks. Adding a good PE kit, a Skywave E-10 kit for weapons and boats, dilling portholes, & eliminating and replacing the molded-on depth charge racks would make for a fairly accurate Matsu. No exterior degaussing cable is necesssary as these ships carried them internally. Dan Kaplan, NYC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: "Victor M. Baca" Subject: Full Hull or Waterline In response to the query regarding hull preference in 1/350 scale. Definitely and emphatically put me down for full hull. Nothing quite beats the looks of the ship's full body lines on a stand. The props, rudders, keel and full underwater shape are there for the viewer to take in everything the naval architect designed into the ship. I enjoy looking at the waterline models, but to my eye, they always appear to show only part of the story. Of course, I also enjoy hanging around drydocks taking "nude" photos of ships high and dry; that's a whole 'nuther thread, though... May your models gather no dust, Victor Baca -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33) From: "chisum" Subject: Re: Waterline or full hull My personnal preference is waterline from 1/700 scale to 1/192 or 1/200 scale. It seems that you can't get a good study of the hull until 1/48th scale which I believe is the more common builder scale. I have yet to see an excellent hull with all the plating, etc. in 1/350th. I think it is more traditional to do a full hull, but really how often have you seen pictures of models focusing on the hull? All eyes tend to go topside. I like to model my ships as realistic as possible, weathering included. Hey Steve Wiper, how long is a piece of string?!!....Randy C. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Broken Bow Repair I have an update to what's happened since my California collided with the concrete garage floor. The morning after I posted my plea for help here, I called Jon Warneke at Iron Shipwrights to ask his advice on how to repair the damage. I figured, he's the pattern maker, if anyone would know... We talked about 20-30 min, covering the all the bases about how it happened, the degree & nature of the damage, the condition of the break area, what was left of the bow, my exhaustive search for the missing part (to no avail), ideas I had for repairing th damage, etc. Jon was extremely paitent and understanding of my plight. However, he soon came to the conclusion that repairing the damage wouldn't be feasable. Instead, he felt the only way to solve the problem was to replace the hull. Talk about going above and beyond the call! Jon had always told me they were dead serious about having the best customer service in the business. Based on my past experiences with them, they never gave me any reason to doubt this, but now I say Ted Paris and Jon Warneke should be nominated for the Consumer Service Medal of Honor. To say I was surpised would be an understatement. I'm still in shock. Given how the hull was damaged, I was hesitant to accept Jon's offer, thinking "surely there's a way I can fix this. After all, it's my goon up." Jon paitently explained that due to the size of the damaged area (about a half-inch) and moreso, the complex shape of the prow (given the hawse pipes were involved), there would be no way to repair it so it would both stand up to any form of stress and look right. He briefly discussed the possibility of cutting off the prow from a hull with cast problems and using that to repair my hull. Owing to the difficulty of getting the two properly aligned and the likelyhood of a nasty seamline, he assured me that the hull replacement option would be a much better solution. He then went on to reassure me that accidents beyond our control do happen occassionally, and in such instances, they had no problem helping out by replacing the part. Ted and Jon...you guys are the greatest! You have my unwavering loyalty and appreciation. I have *never* dealt with any other company that has had so much paitence, consideration, and understanding for their customers as you have. Thank you again for all the help and assistance you've gracefully offered me on this project. SAL-UTE! Go Navy! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35) From: "Donald Hinton" Subject: 1/72 .50 machine guns for MTBs Felix, Aires, a Czech detail company, makes beautiful resin .50 cal. aircraft guns for several aircraft detail sets (F6F and TBF Avenger), but the sets are very expensive. However, Hannants website, http://www.hannants.co.uk/cgi-bin/home.pl listed these aircraft guns as being sold as seperately as guns only (Aires AIRE7237 waist guns & Aires AIRE7240 wing guns, both at 3.50 Pounds). The gun body and barrels are resin, and photoecthed is included for the ammo and other parts, to include an ammo can on the waist gun version. They are beautiful. The barrels even have scale-like perforations in them. Well worth the money IMHO. Don Hinton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36) From: Fritz Koopman Subject: To Waterline or not to waterline For 1/700 I like the waterline thing. For 1/350th I'm faithful to full hull models unless I'm doing a diorama. At 1/350th scale I find it interesting to add underhull details such as plating, doubler plates around through hulls and appendage attachments, and even zincs can be made at this scale if you can find a good drydock photo, or general anode density plan. Many people think a ship should be represented in its element, however as a Marine Engeneer/ Naval Architect, I find that the undersides tells me just as much about a ship as the topside. In my line of work, the underside is just as much the buisness end of a aboat as the guns. As an artist, the undersides are what contain the (sometimes, anyway) graceful, and sweeping curves that give the ship its female context in the english language. :-) Best Regards Fritz Koopman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37) From: Shane Subject: Compuserve & AOL SMML hassles Hi gang, It appears that several subscribers are having hassles with recieving SMML at the above isps. It's seems to be rejecting SMML as an attachment. Now since SMML is sent in the body of the email & not as an attachment, I can only surmise that there is some sort of incompatability going on with CS & AOL. If anyone in the know could help me out here, I'll make up a new page for the site explaining how this can be fixed in the future. Regards, Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: VACATION TIME... AGAIN? Hi List, Due to the impending change in my domestic circumstances in 10 days time (i.e. I'm moving house... Dave's stopping here of course.. ) followed by (another!) trip to California on the 6th July, this time visiting with certain folks in the SF/Sacramento areas for 10 days... filling orders may become a bit sluggish over the next 5 or six weeks. Please avoid phoning us during this time.. Dave will be running WEM during my absence, and will have enough on his plate! THEN of course he gets HIS 2 weeks vacation at the end of July anyhow, and it'll be me back at the helm.. ahh.. exciting and busy times indeed!! Hmm.. I wonder if it'll be bikini weather in Sacramento? Caroline Carter White Ensign Models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Keith Butterley Subject: L'Arsenal Corvette kits Hi Group I now have L'Arsenal 400 scale resin corvette kits in stock. There is an early version and a late version. The price is $50Cdn/$34US plus $5Cdn/$3US shipping. I also have the famous Snyder & Short Paint Chip sets in stock. RN#1 $29Cdn RN#2 $25Cdn IJN $14Cdn USN#1 $26Cdn USN#2 $37Cdn Shipping is $2Cdn for 1 or all 5 sets. Chips sets are for sale in Canada only. Special Package Offers. Purchase a corvette kit and a WR Press corvette book, and shipping is free. Purchase the WR Press Atlanta or Fletcher, Gearing & Sumner book, plus the Snyder & Short chipset USN#1, and shipping is free. This offer is good only in North America. Keith Butterley http://www3.telus.net/warshipbooks/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Caroline Carter" Subject: Re: Itty bitty planes Hi Peter, Thanks! I've been watching the SMML board quite closely. >> 1/700 scale resin models of the Bf 109T(21 Bags) , Fieslier Fi 167 (20 bags), and Ju 87B/C (20 bags). At this point, I need to know what the cost of 20 bags will be << For each subject, we would charge you the standard price of 2.95 per bag (I think you're in the States, aren't you, Peter?) We would need to have a credit card that the entire lot would be charged to.... this would ONLY be charged once the items were available. It would have to be understood that there would be no changing of mind (from my experience, folks often say "Great.. I'll go for it!" and then don't stump up the dosh, so be warned that you could end up with several bags of unwanted aircraft after stumping up around 60 pounds per subject!). With numbers per bag, biplanes/seaplanes run at 3 a bag. Twins generally run at 3 a bag. Small, single engined monoplanes run at 5 a bag. Time period? Well, we have a huge backlog... would the end of the year be O.K.? Get back to me when you can. All The Best Caroline http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models White Ensign Models, for a fine range of photoetched brass for 1/600, 1/700 and 1/350 scale kits, and THE finest warship kits and upgrades in the world! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Victor M. Baca" Subject: Model Ship Journal in the mail The first issue of Model Ship Journal is on the way to subscribers. We completed the mailing process and they should be arriving later this week to your mailboxes. Foreign surface post will take a while longer. Thanks to all of you who decided to subscribe, I think you'll be pleased with your new magazine. We are in production for the next issue due out in September. If you would like to subscribe, we can still supply you with Issue Zero, (the premier issue) to begin your subscription. This can be done for only a limited time, until 31 July at the latest. After that, subscriptions will begin with the September issue and if there are any Issue Zeros left, they can be purchased at the cover price of $9.95. If you are planning to attend the IPMS Nationals, drop by the Classic Warships booth and see what we have to offer. Subscribe to Model Ship Journal by calling toll free (877) 371-0290 in the U.S. or (360) 371-0290 outside U.S. We accept Visa and Mastercard, checks or money orders. Subscription price is $30.00 per year in U.S. and $45.00 per year outside U.S. Mail orders can be sent to: Model Ship Journal P.O. Box 28516 Bellingham, Wa 98228-0516 I'll let you know next week what you can expect to see in the next issue. Thanks again for supporting Model Ship Journal. Victor M. Baca Editor & Publisher -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume