Subject: SMML VOL 950 Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:28:54 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: 50 cal machine guns 2: Re: Resin with Training Wheels 3: Re: CW Konigsberg & Nurnberg 4: Insect Class Gunboats 5: Re: Fletcher Camo and Radar 6: Re: full hull or waterline 7: Re: My vote for a combined color chip set 8: Re: VACATION TIME... AGAIN? 9: Re: USS KIDD damage post? 10: Re: Weathering below waterline 11: Re: Graf Zeppelin Air Wing 12: Model Ship Journal 13: S-boat / E-Boat 14: Re: Whatya buildin 15: Fletcher camo and radar 16: Airfix Moskva 17: Re: Scratch-Built Masts 18: Re: 1:350 scale, waterline or full hull 19: Re: L'Arsenal Corvette kits 20: Re: Waterline or full hull 21: Full Hull - Waterline and Insect Class Gunboats 22: Re: E-boats 23: Waterline vs Full Hull & Weathering 24: Re: Airfix Moskva 25: Full Hull or Waterline 26: Re: Model Cases & Barristers' Bookcases 27: Shane's HMAS Vampire 28: Re: Full Hull vs Waterline 29: Paint Chips 30: Kobo-Hiryu 1/700 Yasoshima 31: Re: Tired eyes 32: Wheathering full hulls 33: Re: Modern Colors 34: Re: Tread Plate 35: Egads! Another F@#$% and More.. 36: Ensign 6 37: Re: Tired eyes 38: Re: Tread Plate 39: Russo-Japanese War Exhibit 40: Re: Scratch built lattice masts 41: Re: Tread Plate 42: RN Ship's Crests 43: Rusty's CW Salem 44: Royal Sovereign kit 45: 20mm machine guns 46: CV-6 August'44 refit -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: New from Tom's Modelworks 2: Dallas 2000 vendor update 3: San Diego Model Regatta this weekend 4: International Maritime Modeling June 2000 Update -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Clem Jensen" Subject: Re: 50 cal machine guns Hi I'm building a 1/12 scale PBR [patrol boat] and need dual 50's for the foward gun tub. does anyone know where I can buy them, or a source of drawings or photographs ? Clem Jensen -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Felix Bustelo" Subject: Re: Resin with Training Wheels I think some other good resin kits for first timers are: Iron Shipwright Brooklyn Tugs - you get to complete kits in one box. Iron Shipwright Army LST tug - one model with this one, but again an easy build and a little larger than the Brooklyns. Note: Instructions are sparse in these kits. Also, the WEM Brave Borderer is a real simple kit to ut your teetn on, but it has a little more complex PE. A tiny kit to work on. The WEM Nurton is also a good kit, but the PE is also more complex (and the kit more expensive than the others). L'Arsenal's Type A-69 Aviso is also a very nice kit to try out, but it would fall into the same category as the Nurton - PE is a little complex for a beginner. That's my take on this question. Felix Bustelo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Fernando, Yohan" Subject: Re: CW Konigsberg & Nurnberg Chris, For some nice photos of these two ships, try to get your hands on M.J. Whitley's "Cruisers of World War II". There are several nice shots of both ships in their respective sections. The book can be found on Amazon.com (and sometimes in stores). I have this book as well as his "Battleships of World War II" and they are both full of great photos. The recently re-printed volume on destroyers in next on my list of 'must get' books. I think Whitley also did a book solely on German cruisers, but I beleive it is out of print and hard to come by. Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: Insect Class Gunboats Hi Nick Marine Modelling Monthly did a couple of articles on the Insect Class some time ago (Graham Walker kindly let me have copies) and I can copy these and send them to you. For plans Traplet Publications Plans Service does an excellent 1/48 scale set of HMS Gnat and whats more its very reasonable in price. Sorry I can't let you borrow my copy but its currently on loan to someone else. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: Fletcher Camo and Radar FLETCHER and O'BANNON were both carrying SG radar at Guadalcanal. As to the camo pattern...start collecting as many photos as you can. I note that the Measure 12 mod pattern (also referred to as a dapple or splotch pattern, BTW) shown in the color elevation of FLETCHER in the Warship Perspectives book does not match the photo of FLETCHER on page 6 of the same book. Thus my recommendation to go after original photos... John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys http://www.shipcamouflage.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: full hull or waterline I'm for waterline every time (unless I'm doing a dry dock diorama) because that's the way ships naturally look (it's really what pleases me). It's interesting to note that many of the sailing ship models built by actual old time sailors are all out of proportion below the waterline, they never saw that part of their ship. I do sometimes build full hull, client's wishes or an R/C model are two instances, but my usual choice is waterline. Cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: My vote for a combined color chip set I think John Snyder's idea of a color chip set with most navies included is a great idea. Let's start here. US, British, Japanese, German, Russian, Chinese and throw in Australian IF you have any extra room (couldn't resist Shane) all on one sheet. Also, please include an anti fouling red, nonskid surface and submarine colors. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "John Snyder" Subject: Re: VACATION TIME... AGAIN? >> Hmm.. I wonder if it'll be bikini weather in Sacramento? << It certainly will!! Daytime temps around 100F, still up around 80F at 10pm if we don't get a Delta breeze (and down into the upper 60s if we do). Beautiful clear weather piercingly blue skies in a city that has such an urban forest that you can't see the houses from the elevated freeways. Bring your sunblock...the pool is waiting! John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys http://www.shipcamouflage.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: Re: USS KIDD damage post? Shane: Thanks so much for the copy of the various posts SMML'ers have made regarding the model of the KIDD. I very much appreciate the time you took to cut and paste them on your e-mail to me, and I appreciate more than I can say the various messages sent by SMML list members in sympathy. While I realize that having something like this happen is not the equivalent of a death in the family, keeping all things in perspective, it is disheartening noneless. In any event, the model looks fine now, and when I take it home at the end of October when the exhibition closes I'll fix several small things which, perhaps, only the builder would see. For those with the interest, you can view a number of the models and see the list of winners by looking in on the Mariners' Museum Web site at: http://www.mariner.org. Click on "Collections and Exhibitions", when that page opens, click on "Scale Ship Model Competition and Exhibition 2000", when that page opens, click on "Winners of the Scale Model Competition and Exhibition 2000". You'll see names of models, builders, awards, and clickable thumbnails. Have fun. My special thanks to SMML'er Bob Santos for providing the inspiration over the years by sending me photos of his very special models. Viewing his work made me reach far beyond where I thought my talents lay. Thanks to Rusty White for the kind words he's had to say regarding this model, and it may come as a surprise to him that the KIDD has a few photoetched parts from Flagship Models. So there, Rusty! A round of applause and a hearty Navy "well done!" to John Snyder for his Snyder & Short U.S. Navy Paint Chips. I used your paint chips, John, to change the Floquil Marine paints into something more accurate, while lightening them for scale effect. Thanks to Al Ross for sending me material which unraveled the mysteries of steel warship structure and plating: you'll see your name again in the article on building the KIDD, appearing, so I'm told, in the January/February 2001 issue of Seaways' Ships in Scale magazine. I continue to marvel at all the talent that connects with this list, and if I haven't mentioned you specifically by name, gentlemen, I still thank you all. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis Member, Nautical Research Guild Louisiana Naval War Memorial - USS Kidd, DD 661 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Weathering below waterline >> Now I have a question for those who prefer full hulls: Do you ever "weather" the hull below the boot topping? I have seen this done recently, and it piqued my interest. I have done the area below the boot topping in a uniform anti-fouling red with no weathering or other variation in color, but I was wondering what others think. << An interesting question. Weathering is cause by .... the weather. Since the weather has an effect below the waterline boot, the color should be fairly uniform in my opinion. The only noticeable changes below the waterline boot would be Barnacles and the occasional flaking of the color I would think. I have also seen those models with the rust streaking down the anti-fouling red on the bottoms of surface vessels and submarines. It looks nice, but it just can't happen. Unless rust streaks down the sides under water. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Peter K. H. Mispelkamp" Subject: Re: Graf Zeppelin Air Wing Thanks Caroline! Yes, I realize the danger of possibly being stuck with 60 bags of aircraft! Well guys , we did it! But just because we are at the minimun quantity, that doesn't mean that anyone else cannot join in! I would like to hear from all of you as to how you want to proceed. I'm thinking of getting Money orders from each in US$ to cover your orders, ie. each bag $4.66+ a small deposit to cover shipping & handling e.g. $5.00 per bag. I doubt that WEM would want to take the time to ship out all of our small orders. Since I live in Canada, I am thinking that this might be the best way to go. Once I have all your payments, I will send out the total amount to in US funds to WEM in a money order. Tell me what you think! Sincerely Peter K. H. Mispelkamp -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Loren Perry Subject: Model Ship Journal Victor Baca's first issue of Model Ship Journal arrived here today. I must say that this is the magazine that Scale Ship Modeler (my old Alma Mater) should have been. It is my most humble opinion that MSJ may be the finest looking model ship magazine ever produced in North America. No previous U.S. magazine on the subject has matched the quality of photograph reproduction or paper quality evident in this new Premier Issue. The full color front and back covers are restrained but very elegant and feature some outstanding scale model warships by Don Preul. Inside, the magazine is well balanced with something for almost everyone. Although there are no color photos in the book other than the covers, the brilliant contrast of the sharp black-and-white prints make up for that in the wealth of information provided. There are plans & photo features of a USCG cutter and an Army tugboat, a review of a Heller plastic cruiser kit, photo features of prototype USN warships, model collections, and a scale R/C ship regatta, reviews of modelers plans and books (complete with illustrations of same,) a section for 1/1250 collectors with excellent photos of models in this scale, and a listing of new products for the scale ship modeler. The "in-the-box" reviews of two plastic kits are excellent and show samples of the instruction sheet illustrations as well as crystal-clear photos of the parts themselves still on the sprue. MSJ pointedly avoids the classic period ship modeling featured in other similar magazines and concentrates on mechanically propelled vessels (including some transition types that also carry sails.) There are some weak areas, but they are minor: a caption on a photo of a 1/1250 scale replica of the USS Long Beach (CGN-9) indicates the prototype was built in 1957 when in fact it wasn't launched until 14 July 1959 and didn't complete construction until 1961 (her keel was laid on Dec. 2, 1957.) There is very little in this first issue for merchant ship or ocean liner enthuasists, or modelers of civilian vessels of any type. A few minor typos also managed to find their way into print, but they don't detract from the overall quality of this truly first-rate production. For an initial effort by an untried publisher and editor, MSJ is surprisingly good. I honestly admit I had my doubts about Victor being able to pull this off as I had seen several well-intentioned efforts by others in the past fall by the wayside. But this premier issue ranks right up with the finest European publications on model shipbuilding. Bravo, Victor! If you can maintain this standard, then you'll make your mark in model shipbuilding history. Loren Perry -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: S-boat / E-Boat Doug asked about E-boat references for the Airfix kit. The best that I have encountered so far is Fock's Out of Print "Fast Fighting Boats" which includes the builders plans for several types including the early types which the Airfix kit best represents. Lakowski's "Reich und Kriegsmarine Geheim" has several really useful on-board official photos of the early types, too. I think the Lakowski book is still in print and can be special ordered from Barnes & Nobles. One warnning about reference materials-- I was a lot happier with the Airfix kit before I actually went and looked at them! The kit makes a very nice first impression but the hull has several serious shortcomings, especially around the bow area. For one thing, the kit hull lacks the "knuckle" (that sharp ridge caused by the abrupt change in angle often seen on the bow of speedboats) which swept up along the sides, giving the original its powerful sleek look. Also the keel of the model is flat, not gently curved upwards from midships to the bow. I think the keel-to-deck dimension is too tall as well. It just looks too tall. The result of these omissions is a dull sluggish looking model that just does not give the right impression. Also throw out the hugely overscale depth charge rack that comes with the kit and ignore the painting directions showing all dark horizontal surfaces. Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Gmshoda@cs.com Subject: Re: Whatya buildin I am working on a 1/550 card model of the Russian Black Sea fleet battleship Tri Svyatitelya, whose name I cannot spell (without looking it up) or pronounce, using drawings from V.M. Tomitch's "Warships of the Imperial Russian Navy." Last month I completed the Navarin, using drawings from the same book. My plan is to work slowly from the simplest to the most complicated battleship drawing. I particularly like French and Russian predreadnought battleships because some of them are so bizarre in appearance. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Fletcher camo and radar Navis says one thing, my book say another...hmmm...do I dare open this can of worms? Nahh.... Paul, I sent you an off-list email. Regards, Jeff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Subject: Airfix Moskva Hello Bill, I'm not too sure whether or not you got a good deal for your money, but having seen a couple of Moskva's made up, I would say that it is not a bad little model. It has a seam around the inside of the hull so that you can run a blade around and instantly waterline it if you wish. As far as I know this is the only Russian ship kit in this scale, but I could be wrong. I am in the process of producing a specific detail set for this kit, which will be released on my Atlantic models label. This was one that Caroline was happy to let pass by for some reason. (I don't think she likes Russian subjects!!!!!) But I saw no reason to leave it alone. After all, the Radars on their own are worth the effort. If you are prepared to wait a while longer, this set will be available through WEM before the summer is out. All the best Peter Hall -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "FCR" Subject: Re: Scratch-Built Masts Hello Robert and list Well I must said that I don't built 1/400-1/350 surface warships, just subs. But at 1/700 I always scratch-built the masts for the ships because they are always too much thick to scale. Usually I use styrene plastic to build the masts and join them with superglue, without much problem. Obviously that the structure seems always fragile but if you add a primer color coat it will turn stronger. At 1/400 styrene isn't probably the best to build the masts at least in the bigger parts, in this cases I prefer to use some Evergreen rounded Strip Styrene (those are much stronger and more appropriated for scale, I believe that there are various kind of sizes (it depends to the ones required to your model). Hope this helps. Happy Modeling Filipe C. Ramires Lisboa, PORTUGAL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "FCR" Subject: Re: 1:350 scale, waterline or full hull Hello again Since I only build submarines at this scale here's my small opinion about it. If the submarine hull is good and detailed enough I build it with the full hull mode, if it is poor enough I prefer to build the waterline version. Examples: the DML Type XXI german submarine is one excellent model with superb hull details so full hull with it; Orzel from Innex with a almost plain hull is going now to be cut by the water-line (of course for a beautiful diorama). Good-Bye again. Filipe C. Ramires Lisboa, PORTUGAL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Jana & Pavel" Subject: Re: L'Arsenal Corvette kits Dear Keith Butterley, In regards to your post on the L' Arsenal, Snyder & Short chipset, ete. I am unable to connect to your e-mail and website? Please could you post a phone number? I take it you are in Canada. Thank you Regards Pavel Regina, SK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Re: Waterline or full hull >> Hey Steve Wiper, how long is a piece of string?!!....Randy C. << Well, Randy. Its about that long! <------------> Who-Ah! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "Leslie Brown" Subject: Full Hull - Waterline and Insect Class Gunboats Full Hull - Waterline Its waterline every time for me - no matter what the scale. After all, ships are meant to operate in the water so why not display them in their natural element. Insect or Ladybird Class Gunboats The Model Boats magazine of March 1967 contained a two page article on these vessels includinga small scale plan. Contact me off line with your postal address if you would like a copy. Regards Les Brown -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: E-boats >> I'm sure I've seen E-boats mentioned a million times in SMML postings, but I never paid attention....now I wanna build the Airfix kit, and I need some reference sources. Could someone take pity on me and direct me to some photos, drawings, publications, etc., which will help me in my quest? Thanks so much! << Well, I'm totally lacking in compassion, so this isn't taking pity... :-} If you can find a copy, the following books would be useful: German Coastal Forces of WWII by Mike Whitley Fast Fighting Boats 1870-1945 by Harold Fock E-Boats and Coastal Craft by Paul Beaver Die Deutsche Kriegsmarine in Kampf 1939-1945 by Bodo Herzog Kriegsmarine by Robert Stern Also, the old Profile series had an issue on these boats. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: Waterline vs Full Hull & Weathering This is my opinion on the subject of full hull vs waterline: For larger scales, I like the full hull. For smaller (ie 1:700) I like waterline models. A full hull model, to my eye, looks best on brass pedistals in a case. A ship model not shown in its natural element should not be weathered, nor should it be drybrushed or dark washed. It should be devoid of crew figures. A full-hull model in its case is like a builder's model or a blueprint in three dimensions. It is an "ideal" a concept of the ship in its perfection, and it should be completely clean. Waterline format displays a ship in its element. It is a diorama which portrays a moment in the ship's history and it should therefore show appropriate weathering. Crew figures optional. Why optional? I don't know but it seems to be a widely accepted artistic convention and I like the way a ship model looks without "human clutter" on the deck. Display bases should always be treated with the same attention as the model itself. Keel blocks are not as attractive as brass pedistals. I think they persist as ship model stands mostly because they are just easy to slap together at the end of the project. Water bases for waterline ships should be treated as a "model ocean". That is to say, the builder should check his references and copy the actual wake pattern and colors of a real sea. A real ship at speed is surrounded by frothing water. The water pushed aside by the ship's moving hull has peaks and valleys, even in a calm sea. It's important to model this, too. Check your water photos as you would check your ship photos. Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Kenneth Perry Subject: Re: Airfix Moskva I paid $6 USD for mine, mail order. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Full Hull or Waterline I definitely prefer full hull models even if I plan a diorama base. Instead of cutting down the hull for the diorama route I use a thick enough base and gouge it out for the hull. This allows me to position it in the most natural way for the type of sea and even have the intact bow breaking out over a wave trough if I want. I affix the model with old fashioned DAP bathtub caulk, then build the "water" around the hull. If the hull is too large for this treatment, I compromise and leave myself plenty of slack when I cut down the thing. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Kenneth H. Goldman" Subject: Re: Model Cases & Barristers' Bookcases Stacking Barristers' Bookcases are still made. The can be had through the Levenger catalog and show up in the Damark catalog. Ikea also sells some interesting display possibilities, but many of those require adding some sort of seal to really keep the dust out. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER http://www.wman.com/~khgold/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: "John Rule" Subject: Shane's HMAS Vampire >> (It's) what I'll be using for my OzMods 1/700 HMAS Vampire article (due sometime before the end of the century). Shane << You said that about the last century too!!!!!! John Hi John, But the 20th century still has 6 months to go!! ;-) Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: "Jim Johnson" Subject: Re: Full Hull vs Waterline My vote is as follows: First - Full Hull Second - Split Full Hull Third - Waterline I often wonder, on kits, plans, drawings, profiles etc., where are the sea chests for the condensers. The steam that propels the ship is condensed into water in large condensers. These are cooled by sea water. They have large openings in the hull bottoms. There are two per engine, one intake and one outlet. On a four screw warship, this means eight large openings in the hull bottoms. I have never seen them represented anywhere, even on large museum models. I would think that anything so large would be represented on a large detailed model, not to mention blueprints etc. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: "Stefan Smets" Subject: Paint Chips Can the USN and RN paint chip sets that can be seen on the warschip site and made by Jon Warneke and Jeff Herne be bought somewhere by mail-order? What would the price be? Thanks, Stefan. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: "Stefan Smets" Subject: Kobo-Hiryu 1/700 Yasoshima And another question: where can the Kobo-Hiryu 1/700 Yasoshima be bought by mail-order? Pacific Front doesn't sell it anymore .. Thanks, Stefan. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: Tired eyes Hi Guys About Screen Glare effects at work we were this handout during a safety session from the company. Ease Computer Screen Glare Computers maybe getting faster and better every day, but computer screen glare plagues all users who aren't aware of some simple solutions. Screen glare can cause a worker to experience headaches, blurred vision and other symptoms of eyestrain, according to the American Optometric Association. The AOA suggests computer users follow these tips to ensure optimum eye comfort: Make sure your eyes are in top shape by getting them checked regularly by your optometrist. If you wear glasses, check with your optometrist to make sure your glasses are right for work with video display terminals. Rest or get for a while away from your computer for a while. Prolonged concentration on a computer screen can contribute to the development of nearsightedness. Reduce glare from windows with shades, drapes or blinds. If your unable to control work lighting, purchase a glare screen for your VDT that has met stringent standards for glare reduction. Avoid frequent hand and eye movements by placing reference materials close to the monitors possible and at the same level the screen. Adjust your furniture, computer equipment and monitor brightness and contrast control to your level of comfort Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: SAMI ARIM Subject: Wheathering full hulls Mike Czibovic has a very informative article regarding the subject on the Warship website dating April 25. Sami Arim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33) From: Darren Scannell Subject: Re: Modern Colors John, Do you want wet or Dry samples? Darren PS as for models, I prefer Full Hull, Display type with minimum to no weathering mounted on Oak under a Acrylic. Guess I'm boring. : ) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34) From: Darren Scannell Subject: Re: Tread Plate I'm sure I have seen Tread plate in the Evergreen or Plastruct stand in Styrene, BUT it is way over scale, say 1/24? Darren Scannell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35) From: DECOFELIX@aol.com Subject: Egads! Another F@#$% and More.. Many Thanks to Felix Bustelo for the kind salutation. I notice a certain kinship develops whenever Felix namesakes meet. It is same degree of affinity as being a member of, well...SMML. The Hellfire Club would be a close second. Of course, well send photos when finished. Hopefully, end results to be of sufficient caliber for posting. And Many Kind Regards to SMML subscribers who responded to my inquiries regarding Soviet MTBs,(in 1:72 scale of course!), and 1/72 .50 machine guns. Have numerous leads for both subjects. In fact, regarding the .50s, will attempt both the Aeroclub white metal and Aires photoetch/resin versions.(Have two different kits) Felix Corraliza, El Tocayo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36) From: JPRDBR1@aol.com Subject: Ensign 6 Hello and Good Day; A heart felt "THANK YOU" to all who have responded to my prior requests! So far I'm batting 100% so I shall keep on. Have searched every where I can trying to find: RAVEN, A. & ROBERTS, J. ENSIGN 6, WAR BUILT DESTROYERS O TO Z CLASSES. Anyone have a suggestion where to look? WEM sold their copy. Thanks, Peyton Richardson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Tired eyes >> While I would never make such a sexist remark (shut up Mike, John, Bob, Al, & whoever else knows me), I couldn't agree more ;->>. Only problem is the fact that it's winter down here :-((. OTOH, winter means girls wearing black stockings......... Shane << In a pig's eye, you wouldn't. That's what I love best about hot weather. Uh, oh. Watch out, Shane. I think I hear the sounds of Mistress Lorna unlimbering the cat-o-nine-tails. Mike Settle I am not agent #1908 of the non-existent Lumber Cartel (tinlc)tm Hi Mike, The Cat is only for special occasions ;-> Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Tread Plate >> I saw on the Hobbyweb site that a company called ABER makes photoetched tread plate in a few sizes and patters for armor models. I'm interested in that for my Yamato but I'm not sure if the treads will be small enough and the right pattern. To my knowledge there isn't anything like tread plate in plastic. If anyone out there in SMML land can enlighten us, I'm all ears. << Plastruct makes a few different patterns of diamond tread plate in a 12 x 7 inch sheet. The smallest size, PS-148, is listed as 1/100 scale. They also list 1/48th scale, 1/24th scale and a couple sizes with no scale listed. They also make many other interesting patterns such as wood planking (.075 smallest listed), coursed stone, rock embankment, random stone, field stone, block, brick, interlocking paving, curb, sidewalk, & parkway corners and straights, moon and war craters, and get this ship modelers- calm, agitated, choppy, and stormy water! Plastruct makes over 4000 items, and their catalog is well worth the $5.00 they charge for it. They haven't finished their on-line catalog yet, but their web site can be found at: http://www.plastruct.com/Home.html Plastruct is a major supplier to architects and engineers for their models. Mike Settle I am not agent #1908 of the non-existent Lumber Cartel (tinlc)tm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 39) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Russo-Japanese War Exhibit The Arthur Sackler Gallery in Washington, DC, has a new exhibit entitled "A Well-Watched War: Images from the Russo-Japanese War 1904-1905". Got a very favorable review (www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A14070-2000Jun17.html) and will be open through late November. The exhibit consists mostly of 30 large woodblock color prints done by Japanese propaganda artists. Hopefully the naval aspects of the conflict will be well represented. A catalog of the works on display is planned for July. Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 40) From: "Ron Hillsden" Subject: Re: Scratch built lattice masts Robert, the trick is to use templates and jigs. I don't know the mast you are building, so this is a pretty generic discussion and you may have to modify it for your mast. You will need several drawings of the mast in full 'model size' because you will use them for templates. Cut the wire used for the corner uprights a little longer than necessary. Make the sides of the mast at the same time, beside each other over a drawing so you can be sure the angles are the same on each. (You need a image and a mirror image of each side - template 1). Jigs 1 and 2 hold the top and bottom of the mast - the 'footprint' on the deck at the bottom, whatever the shape at the top. These jigs can be styrene sheet with holes to accept the corner wires.Slip them on the mast sides and hold them with 'blue tack' . These jigs will hold the sides parallel and square while the front and back bracing is added. If you have enough room, I suggest you lay the mast over a drawing (while it is in it's jig) to add the front or the back. If you don't have the room, the sides are still being held together in the jigs while you finish the mast. Start in the middle and work your way up and down - the jigs are holding the ends. Ron Hillsden Victoria BC Canada My Boat Club: http://members.home.net/vmss Model Boat Flags: http://members.home.net/ron-hillsden -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 41) From: "hugh1lottie2" Subject: Re: Tread Plate Plastistrut does make several patterns and different sizes of tread plate in plastic but I would hesitate using them in the smaller scales. You can probably find some that will work in 1/350 or 1/400 depending on which pattern you choose. You could push it and try 1/700 scale. I haven't see this product carried in too many hobby shops but it can be special ordered through Colpar Hobbies [colpar.com] but it may take a week to receive the item because the complete line isn't in the shop. Hugh -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42) From: Jtennier@aol.com Subject: RN Ship's Crests I have a copy of a very useful small book, "Heraldry in the Royal Navy: Crests & Badges of HM Ships" by Alfred Weightman, 1957. Although only line drawings, he has two crests for KGV with the comment both are "official". The second I believe is the one on the tampions that I have seen in photos. POW has only one listed, with the following comment "It has been suggested that if the name of this ship is revived, that a new badge should be designed, this one not being a very effective example". Repulse is listed with two badges, no reference to priority, although the first (a castle turret type device) has the comment "First badge in allusion to the name". The author also states he has not shown all of the badges in service, nor has he shown all the unofficial ones. Badges were apparently officially issued in Dec 1918. Cheers John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 43) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Rusty's CW Salem I picked up the latest issue of FSM today. While reading Rusty's excellent article on Resin Shipbuilding 101 (and oogling his handywork), I noticed something I'd never seen before. Maybe this has been brought up before (and I missed it), but what are the platforms at the base of the main turret faces (beneath the barrels)? Go Navy! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 44) From: "Simon Wolff" Subject: Royal Sovereign kit >> Now, a question. Can anyone tell me how good the Revell, ex-UPC?? 1/500 scale Royal Sovereign is? I have read that it is more appropriate for the Revenge, but I was wondering how difficult a conversion to the Royal Oak would be. Has anyone tried this? Any thoughts are welcome << >> While I can't comment on the accuracy of the Royal Sovereign kit. I should mention that it is an Ex FROG kit - perhaps distributed by UPC in the States. << Hi Guys... The Royal Sovereign kit is manufactured or was very recently.. by Plastyk. (it is an ex-Frog kit). A Polish company, never heard of UPC or Revell releasing it. Can't comment on the accuracy, although a fellow modeller says its a bit dodgy round the bridge area (I think thats right). Its dated but looks workable. regards Simon Wolff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 45) From: dcowie@es.co.nz Subject: 20mm machine guns Hi Shane, I am currently scratchbuilding a 1/35 german type VIIb U-boat. I am at the stage where I would like some photo's of the 20mm machine guns for the conning tower( model ones or the real ones are fine ). I have the plans for them but would like more details in regard to the shape of everything on them. These guns are the single barrel ones. Many thanks, Malcolm Cowie NZ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46) From: Cataldo Torelli Subject: CV-6 August'44 refit Hi SMMLies, In Aug'44 USS Enterprise (CV-6) received her dazzle scheme and maybe some refit like AA mounts changes and/or adds. What were the differences between the 1943 refit and the 1944 one? Maybe on 20 mm guns I have refferences for the 1943 refit, but I'm doing her in the dazzle scheme period. Any tip is very welcome. Best wishes, Cataldo Torelli. Madrid, Spain. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Tom & Carolyn Harrison" Subject: New from Tom's Modelworks NEW 1/350 Scale Flotation Baskets. One of the types used on most all WWII US Naval ships. The sheet contains 85 individual baskets in three different widths. Set 3520 cost $12 and is available either direct for us or Pacific Front Hobbies. Mention SMML and receive free shipping from when ordering direct. ICM's Grosser Kurfurst kit and more Konig kits due into their US distributor this week. Our etcher is currently running the detailing set for these kits "Set #3524" more on this this set to follow. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: Dallas 2000 vendor update Hello there: Latest news from the vendor coordinator --- all 319 tables for the IPMS 2000 Convention in Dallas are spoken for. Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: San Diego Model Regatta this weekend Hello All, For anyone in the San Diego area that is interested, there will be a model boat regatta in Mission Bay, at the model yacht pond on Saturday. The pond is next to the Princess resort at Vacation Village. All types of models will be there, but we usually have a pretty good turnout of 1/96 scale military subjects. I will have my John Paul Jones there for her initial taste of salt water. If any smml'ies can attend, be sure to stop by and say "hi" Cordially, Kurt SeaPhoto Maritime Photography http://warshipphotos.com Warship Models Underway http://members.aol.com/wmunderway/home.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Felix Bustelo" Subject: International Maritime Modeling June 2000 Update I am pleased to announce the June 2000 update of International Maritime Modeling. http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm The June 2000 update to the site includes: Photos of Peter Hall's 1/600 HMS Hood and HMS Ajax, Tory Macuro's 1/525 USS Wasp (CV-18), Doug Flynn's 1/600 USS Wasp (CV-7), Atle Ellefson's 1/700 Hikawa Maru, David Miller's 1/700 Hikawa Maru and Nitta Maru and my 1/400 Jean Moulin (Type A-69 Aviso) in the Photo Gallery. A review of the Heller 1/400 scale Colbert and Le Redoutable, the L'Arsenal 1/400 Floreal Class frigate and the Mirage 1/400 ORP Mazur ca. 1935 in Quick Kit Reviews. A review of the Gold Medal Models 1/400 German WW2 Warship set, Tom's Modelworks 1/400 Bismarck and 1/400 scale Tirpitz sets, White Ensign Models 1/400 Extrafine 3-Bar Railings and Ladders in Photoetch Reviews. A review of the Model Shipways WW2 Royal Navy Colors paints under the Paints List. The addition of an Armageddon and Tecnomodels product page under the Kits List. Related updates to the Links page. Please stop be for a visit. Thanks, Felix Bustelo Webmaster -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume